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  1. #1
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    Avid Single Digit or Cane Creek Direct Curve?

    Looking to upgrade my V-brakes as they have developed quite a bit of play. Currently using Avid Single Digit Ti's and have been pretty pleased with them. My only issue is that the rear brake has always felt like there is alot more friction than the front brake and not nearly as responsive.

    Saw a few posts on the cane creek direct curve brakes here and there and thought that might be a solution. Any suggestions or comments on these or other v-brakes? I will be using these on a Specialized Epic. Thanks.

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by SplijinX
    Looking to upgrade my V-brakes as they have developed quite a bit of play. Currently using Avid Single Digit Ti's and have been pretty pleased with them. My only issue is that the rear brake has always felt like there is alot more friction than the front brake and not nearly as responsive.

    Saw a few posts on the cane creek direct curve brakes here and there and thought that might be a solution. Any suggestions or comments on these or other v-brakes? I will be using these on a Specialized Epic. Thanks.
    I had CC Direct Curves on my bike when I used Vs and Avid Mechs. They were alright, but I just never found them to be great. I can't imagine the CCs making that big of a difference, but I've never tried the Avid Single Tis to compare against.

    Are you running full length housing to the rear brake? Check your cable routing, try to go as directly as possible, sounds like cable/housing issues rather than lever issues to me.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jdub
    I had CC Direct Curves on my bike when I used Vs and Avid Mechs. They were alright, but I just never found them to be great. I can't imagine the CCs making that big of a difference, but I've never tried the Avid Single Tis to compare against.

    Are you running full length housing to the rear brake? Check your cable routing, try to go as directly as possible, sounds like cable/housing issues rather than lever issues to me.
    Not quite full length, but they are pretty direct - brake lever to the top tube, and then to the brakes themselves. I put a length of Avid Full Metal Jacket on the part of the cable that would normally be exposed on the top tube. It seems to perk things up a bit.

    I think most of the friction is in that last bit of cable housing and the noodle. When I had replace a teflon coated brake cable thats the area where the teflon coating was rubbed off.

  4. #4
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    I used the Direct Curve 2 brakes and liked them, plus they looked trick, but to be perfectly honest I thought the stopping performance of my Avid Single Digit 5s was superior.
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  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by SplijinX
    Not quite full length, but they are pretty direct - brake lever to the top tube, and then to the brakes themselves. I put a length of Avid Full Metal Jacket on the part of the cable that would normally be exposed on the top tube. It seems to perk things up a bit.

    I think most of the friction is in that last bit of cable housing and the noodle. When I had replace a teflon coated brake cable thats the area where the teflon coating was rubbed off.
    Cheapest and easiest thing to do is replace the rear cable housing. I replaced mine about once every 4 months when I was running Vs/Avid Mechs.

  6. #6
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    I'm running the sd-tis with paul levers on my xc rig at the moment and they are absolutly perfect. before the avids i had xt's and they're worthless compared to my current setup. sd-ultimates on my ss, should have that finished up next week so i can take it for a spin. as far as v-brakes go avid has my vote. eventually i'd like to pick up a set of pauls too, my buddy has them on a few bikes and they're just as sweet.
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  7. #7
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    Ques. on CC's and Paul's in comparo to Avids

    I run Paul's levers and love them w/my Avid SD 7 brakes. BUT, I run an old EWR Woods Bike frame and the cable guide (which runs down the left side of the TT) requires that the cable reach up to run into the noodle and then, of course, make the 90 degr sweep through the noodle, etc. I have fairly powerful brakes this way as long as I keep the cable lubed into the brake noodle. Especially as the Paul's lever have no return spring.
    I guess that I am wondering if I could have even more powerful brakes if I switched to the Cane Creeks as the cable would come out of the last cable guide/stop and have a shorter, almost direct shot into the CC's brake arm.
    Any opinions?
    Oh, and with the Paul's brakes. I wanted to use them in the worst way but Michael Browne of Dirt Rag reminded me that per their design, if you like to run larger tires, the straight up design of the brake arms can sometimes hit the tire (before the pad fully compresses on the rim) even when the brakes are set up properly.
    Good riding to all of you!

  8. #8
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    That's tough to say, because as much as I liked the Direct Curve brakes (I ran the DC2), I found the Avid single digit series to offer more power, even with the extra friction of the noodle (including the SD5, which uses a similar non-cartridge pad as the DC2).

    There's no denying the "coolness" factor behind the DC brakes, and they do work well, so why not scout out a set for cheap on eBay and give them a shot? You can always resell if they don't cut it for you.
    speedub.nate
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