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  1. #1
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    Avid mechanical disc/Yakima rack compatibility

    I'm considering getting a new front wheel and Avid mechanical disc brake to replace my stock Avid v-brake.

    We use a ten-year old (at least) Yakima rack that requires removing the front wheels of our bikes. Is it a hassle to frequently remove and reinstall the front wheel with disc brakes? Is there anything I need to consider here?

  2. #2
    (aka SS_MB-7)
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    I've got a 6-yr old Yakima roof rack that holds the bike by the fork dropouts. The only issue I've had was with my first pair of discs (Hope C2 Pro) and Bomber fork. The combination of the larger caliper and low fork disc tabs put the caliper into the side of the fork tray. With a Dremel, I simply removed a semi-circle seciton of the tray material that was interfering with the caliper. No more issues. The newer Yakima racks account for discs and do not need cutting.

    Since then, I've switched to many different disc brakes and many different forks and never encounted this issue again...so I moved this tray to the passenger side (which gets minimal use) and use a non-cut tray as my tray. The cut tray has been used many, many times and has never been an issue and shows no signs of cracks, etc.

    Most hydraulic disc brakes come with a travel insert that you can jam between the caliper's pads/pistons which the front wheel is off. I never use it. It's more for if someone accidentally pulls the lever with the wheel removed. In a open hydraulic system, the pistons will automatically compensate for pad wear. So, if the wheel is removed and the lever pulled, the pistons will extend. If pulled numerous times or long enough, the pistons can actually pop-out. In most cases, it just a matter of resetting the pistons with a flat-bladed screwdriver, re-install the wheel and give the lever a few pulls to reset the pistons/pads. No big deal. For mechanicals, this is not an issue.
    Ride Hard,
    Mike B. (MCM# 7.77)
    http://www.one-speed.com

  3. #3
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    We use ten year old Yak trays, and I made a modification similar to what Mike describes, except that I used a saber saw/metal blade to cut one side of the tray down at the front, so that the brakes don't conflict with the tray. Afterward, I buffed off the burrs and made it smooth with a dremel, then painted the raw edge black with some .49cent Testors enamel paint...looks like they were made that way and I didn't have to buy a "Boa" set for $60/wheel...

  4. #4
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    I turn my handle bars 180 degrees so the calipers are on the outside. works just fine.

  5. #5
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    Thanks for the tips folks.

    Riding today on my new (3 weeks) Stumpjumper FSR Comp, I again found myself barely able to slow down fast enough going into corners. This is my first FS bike, and even though I am a 46 year old orthopedically challenged hacker, I am traveling downhill a lot faster. I'm running Avid Mag rim brakes off my 2001 Stumpjumper Pro hardtail- I always thought they stopped great- but now I can see why I might want at least a front disc.

    I also switched the Mavic X517 wheels off my older bike. The 2001 vintage Pro-level Stumpy came with a S-Works rebadged Hugi 240 rear hub that I will have a tough time stepping up to the plate $$ wise to replace with a disc-compatible hub. But I will have an easier time just getting a new front wheel and one Avid mechanical disc, especially because it sounds like I can still use my Avid Mag lever.

  6. #6
    ballbuster
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    two words...

    hack saw.

    There is a company that makes a mount adaptor for it that basically boosts the fork mount up a few inches to allow your brake to clear, but heck, 15 minutes with a hacksaw, and it is no longer an issue. The added bonus is that you can transport your bud's bikes as well.

  7. #7
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    your fine

    i had problems with my old xt brakes, but since going to the avid mech's no problems. the caliper sits up high enough and is compact enough that it doesn't affect it. if all else fails the viper by yakima is made for that problem

    Good Luck
    [SIZE="3"]The nine most terrifying words in the English language are, 'I'm from the government and I'm here to help.' --Ronald Reagan [/SIZE]

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by mtbykr
    i had problems with my old xt brakes, but since going to the avid mech's no problems. the caliper sits up high enough and is compact enough that it doesn't affect it. if all else fails the viper by yakima is made for that problem

    Good Luck
    The first disc brakes we ended up getting are Deores on my wife's 2004 Stumpjumper FSR. I just used a grinder to carve a U-shape in both trays to accomodate the calipers. Took about 20 minutes to grind and then file them. Not super pretty- my work with the handgrinder won't win any awards, but the forks with disc calipers fit fine into the tray and fork mounts now. Beats getting new trays.

  9. #9
    Riding free's the mind
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    Viper head

    I had the same situation with my new bikes disc brakes. Not sure if it was prev mentioned, but I replaced my old tray and skewers with the Yakima Viper tray and head, which accommodates disc brake calipers on the fork- also has the ability to lock the bike at the QR lever. Like it a lot, but did have to set aside the old tray & QR skewer.
    [SIZE=2]Question to a custom frame builder..."So what makes your bikes climb better?"....his answer, "Uh, your legs?"[/SIZE]

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