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  1. #1
    jrm
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    Avid Mech adjustment question..

    I have a 04 5 spot and am using full housing for the rear brake using the frames hydro stops. According to the Avid directions i did everything right in setting up my new rear caliper. Except for when i went to test it the caliper arm and brake lever didnt return all the way. AS per the directions i tried to remove the slop using the barrel adjustment on the lever but it didnt work. Can i use the spring tension adjustment to take the slop out? Say if like a v-brake, i adjust the spring tension to its lowest setting, take all the slack out of the cable, and then fine tune the slop out by adding spring tension instead of using the barrel adjustment at the lever? I'd like to keep the barrel adjustment at the lever for readjusting the brake after the cables stretch and wear.

    Thanks in advance..

  2. #2
    Bad Case of the Mondays
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    Quote Originally Posted by jrm
    I have a 04 5 spot and am using full housing for the rear brake using the frames hydro stops. According to the Avid directions i did everything right in setting up my new rear caliper. Except for when i went to test it the caliper arm and brake lever didnt return all the way. AS per the directions i tried to remove the slop using the barrel adjustment on the lever but it didnt work. Can i use the spring tension adjustment to take the slop out? Say if like a v-brake, i adjust the spring tension to its lowest setting, take all the slack out of the cable, and then fine tune the slop out by adding spring tension instead of using the barrel adjustment at the lever? I'd like to keep the barrel adjustment at the lever for readjusting the brake after the cables stretch and wear.

    Thanks in advance..
    I had the same problem of the lever not returning fully. What it ended up being in my instance was the routing had too sharp of a bend and therefore was creating some friction. I re-routed the cabling going as straight as I could and that seemed to cure it.

    You might be able to get the lever to return fully by adjusting that screw, but I'd think its probably just be covering up what the real problem is.

  3. #3
    Two wheels are best
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    As jdub stated, make sure your routing doesn't have any sharp bends.

    Also, make sure your cable ends are cut cleanly. A bur could cause your problem as well.
    Never be afraid to try something new.

    Remember amateurs built the Ark.
    Professionals built the Titanic.

  4. #4
    Anytime. Anywhere.
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    Avid

    You can adjust the return spring tension on the Avid mechanical discs. Make sure the cable routing is good, no frays, kinks etc, all slack out of cable, and then adust the spring tension. You use a small allen wrench and if I had one here I could describe it better but you'll see it.
    I got some bad ideas in my head.

  5. #5
    Nouveau Retrogrouch SuperModerator
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    What they said. The straighter the routing the better. Bypass the stock guides if you need to.
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  6. #6
    jrm
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    As i said in OP

    Quote Originally Posted by jrm
    I have a 04 5 spot and am using full housing for the rear brake using the frames hydro stops. According to the Avid directions i did everything right in setting up my new rear caliper. Except for when i went to test it the caliper arm and brake lever didnt return all the way. AS per the directions i tried to remove the slop using the barrel adjustment on the lever but it didnt work. Can i use the spring tension adjustment to take the slop out? Say if like a v-brake, i adjust the spring tension to its lowest setting, take all the slack out of the cable, and then fine tune the slop out by adding spring tension instead of using the barrel adjustment at the lever? I'd like to keep the barrel adjustment at the lever for readjusting the brake after the cables stretch and wear.

    Thanks in advance..
    Im running full housing but also teflon coated cable. The bends in the brake line are smooth. But 2 weeks ago i did wind the housing around the headtube in a wreck. Would or could this be a probelm? should i change out the housing.

  7. #7
    Two wheels are best
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    Quote Originally Posted by jrm
    Im running full housing but also teflon coated cable. The bends in the brake line are smooth. But 2 weeks ago i did wind the housing around the headtube in a wreck. Would or could this be a probelm? should i change out the housing.
    Normally, I'd say no. IF you didn't have the problem BEFORE the crash you mentioned, I'd say maybe.

    Could you have bent the brake lever in the same crash? What about the actuator arm on the brake caliper?
    Never be afraid to try something new.

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  8. #8
    Nouveau Retrogrouch SuperModerator
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    You might of kinked the housing and/or the cable. That would do it.
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  9. #9
    jrm
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    The caliper this new caliper replaced

    Quote Originally Posted by DM-SC
    Normally, I'd say no. IF you didn't have the problem BEFORE the crash you mentioned, I'd say maybe.

    Could you have bent the brake lever in the same crash? What about the actuator arm on the brake caliper?
    i bought in 01. The actuator arm had lost all its tolerances and wobbled as the lever drew cable. I never got a change to see if this was the probelm before the wreck. The hell with it im going to change the housing..

  10. #10
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    Another Avid Mech question

    I just put together my brand new RacerX 100 w/ Avid Mech 5's and SD-7 levers. When I brake at speed the rear brake pulses as if there's a contaminant on part of the rotor surface. After making sure that the rotor was true, I cleaned the rotors with 99% rubbing alcohol and it didn't help. Then, I tried engine degreaser and that didn't help. I then thought that the wheel wasn't seated right in the dropouts...not the case either. Can anyone suggest another reason that my rear brake might pulse (catch at the same part of the wheel's rotation)???

    I need to fix this so I can ride the good stuff!!!

    -MidshipmanX

  11. #11
    Nouveau Retrogrouch SuperModerator
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    Variation in the rotor thickness. It has happened in the past.
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  12. #12
    aka Willy Vanilly
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    Hey jrm,
    Another idea for you: try "tensing" the arm that pulls on the cable at the brake end. Not a ton, just a tiny bit so that when you cinch down on the cable, the arm pulls the cable taut. Hope that makes sense. Good luck
    Any intelligent fool can make things bigger, more complex, and more violent. It takes a touch of genius -- and a lot of courage -- to move in the opposite direction.
    E. F. Schumacher

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  13. #13
    jrm
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    I think i get what you mean

    Quote Originally Posted by will8250
    Hey jrm,
    Another idea for you: try "tensing" the arm that pulls on the cable at the brake end. Not a ton, just a tiny bit so that when you cinch down on the cable, the arm pulls the cable taut. Hope that makes sense. Good luck
    do you mean not letting the actuating arm go all the back to its resting position? therefore having the pads come in contact with the rotor sooner then would if i let the actuating arm go all the way back to resting?

  14. #14
    ballbuster
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    You found the return spring...

    Quote Originally Posted by jrm
    I have a 04 5 spot and am using full housing for the rear brake using the frames hydro stops. According to the Avid directions i did everything right in setting up my new rear caliper. Except for when i went to test it the caliper arm and brake lever didnt return all the way. AS per the directions i tried to remove the slop using the barrel adjustment on the lever but it didnt work. Can i use the spring tension adjustment to take the slop out? Say if like a v-brake, i adjust the spring tension to its lowest setting, take all the slack out of the cable, and then fine tune the slop out by adding spring tension instead of using the barrel adjustment at the lever? I'd like to keep the barrel adjustment at the lever for readjusting the brake after the cables stretch and wear.

    Thanks in advance..
    ... tension, right? There is a tiny allen bolt in the return spring in the actuator arm. I think it's a 2 or 3mm with a dab of thread locker. Is this the caliper I traded you? I tend to set my brakes up with as little spring tension as I can get away with. You may wanna crank that bad boy down a bit more.

  15. #15
    Two wheels are best
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    Quote Originally Posted by pimpbot
    ... tension, right? There is a tiny allen bolt in the return spring in the actuator arm. I think it's a 2 or 3mm with a dab of thread locker. Is this the caliper I traded you? I tend to set my brakes up with as little spring tension as I can get away with. You may wanna crank that bad boy down a bit more.
    Oh, so now we all know...this is all YOUR fault!
    Never be afraid to try something new.

    Remember amateurs built the Ark.
    Professionals built the Titanic.

  16. #16
    aka Willy Vanilly
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    Exactly. But only a tiny bit in so when you let go of the arm it pulls the slack out of the system. Then you can adjust the pad contact point afterwards using the red knobs.

    Hope that helps
    Any intelligent fool can make things bigger, more complex, and more violent. It takes a touch of genius -- and a lot of courage -- to move in the opposite direction.
    E. F. Schumacher

    sXe

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