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  1. #1
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    avid juicy 7's break in issues

    i just swapped out my oem brakes on my tassahara disk ( hayes sole 6" front rear) for a set of J7's after reading here. i am fairly heavy at 220 and the biggest issue with the hayes was fade. for those in socal.....specifically towsley canyon. i installed the 203 front, and 160 rear. after installing them, i did some hot laps down the street in hope of not having to cruise the first downhill in the dirt. they worked ok, but i knew it would take a few stops and heat cycles for pads to seat to the rotors.

    anyways, just got back from the first ride. i can handle the squealing which is the only real complaint i read about. after about 2 miles of steep fast downhills, the brakes still arnt what i hoped. i expected a one finger flip if i wasnt careful, and at the bottom of the hill while i could still lock up the front, it still took a considerable amount of force. now after all this jibber jabber, i still think my $330 brakes cant be broken in all the way. anyone else confirm?


    jon

    i figured i was going way overboard for a hardtail.........LOL

  2. #2
    neutiquam erro
    Reputation: Chris130's Avatar
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    They will take "a while" to break in properly. Don't give up yet, another ride or two and you should have the power you are looking for.

    If you still feel they are too mushy, consider re-bleeding as a next step.

    Cheers, Chris
    [SIZE=2]Now is the time on Sprockets when we hammer.[/SIZE]
    [SIZE=1]'05 Blur Classic (1x9) || '06 SIR9 (SS) || '06 Brompton P6L[/SIZE]

  3. #3
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    i appriciate the feedback. any other J7 break in experience is welcomed.

    they are supposed to be prebled (i did not change length of brake line) but the guy at the LBS said thats all BS bring them in and ill rebleed them for you for 20 bucks. not knowing me, he was quick to jump in, dicredit the manual, and offer a job for what seemed to be a little steep, so i figured he was blowing smoke.

    do most of the J7's come prebled properly?

  4. #4
    neutiquam erro
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    Getting the Juicy Bleed Kit is a good investment, and would be a much better direction to put that $20 towards. You really should learn to bleed your brakes yourself (it's honestly not hard at all - just follow the directions carefully), so getting the kit and learning it sooner than later is a good idea. You don't want to have to take stuff like that into the LBS everytime it needs to be done.

    I don't know if the J7s come "properly" bled or not - as soon as I got mine, I replaced the hoses, so I have no idea if the original bleed was any good. It was my first time dealing with hydro brakes at all, and I did the whole shebang - cut & installed aftermarket lines (Goodridges), installed the Juicys, and then bleed the brakes. MUCH easier to do all that than I thought it would be. I was nervous about the bleeding procedure, but it was very straightforward. I LOVE the brakes!

    Cheers, Chris
    [SIZE=2]Now is the time on Sprockets when we hammer.[/SIZE]
    [SIZE=1]'05 Blur Classic (1x9) || '06 SIR9 (SS) || '06 Brompton P6L[/SIZE]

  5. #5
    Get Down Do you
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    Juicy tend to come pretty much set up. A couple things to try and things I do with all juicys that come into the shop. Turn the contact nob all the way out. Then adjust the pushrod hex screw inside the lever with a 2mm hex wrench till it's barely visible outside the lever nut. Then make all your contact pad adjustments via the nob. The Push rod is set up for bleeding and if you have a thick grip you will have issues with getting the full pull on the lever and will give the brakes a feel of being mushy.

    If you do this and you still feel like you are missing stopping power. Try a bleed. But I would recommend trying the lever adjust 1st.
    Progression is fine just remember to respect your roots.



    [SIZE="3"] Click to see my Orange Ano Blur LT[/SIZE]

  6. #6
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    went on the same 2 mile downhill ride again. the front are working very nicely now, and after the lever adjustment the rear feels nice too. i think it was my fat grips, and even with the pad adjuster all the way out, there was just too much play until i pushed the levers out. thanks for the help.

  7. #7
    Meh.
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    A lot of brakes don't come prebled properly, but it sounds like you figured it out. For a while, all of our OE Juicy 3s were coming way overfilled.

  8. #8
    Get Down Do you
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    Quote Originally Posted by XSL_WiLL
    A lot of brakes don't come prebled properly, but it sounds like you figured it out. For a while, all of our OE Juicy 3s were coming way overfilled.
    3s and 5s were coming into the shop all messed up recently for us too but fortunately not too many. 7s seem to be fine especially after what I call the 2005 debacle when I couldn't get a properly setup Avid Brake from the factory ever.
    Progression is fine just remember to respect your roots.



    [SIZE="3"] Click to see my Orange Ano Blur LT[/SIZE]

  9. #9
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    Say, Muggsly

    Quote Originally Posted by Muggsly
    Juicy tend to come pretty much set up. A couple things to try and things I do with all juicys that come into the shop. Turn the contact nob all the way out. Then adjust the pushrod hex screw inside the lever with a 2mm hex wrench till it's barely visible outside the lever nut. Then make all your contact pad adjustments via the nob. The Push rod is set up for bleeding and if you have a thick grip you will have issues with getting the full pull on the lever and will give the brakes a feel of being mushy.

    If you do this and you still feel like you are missing stopping power. Try a bleed. But I would recommend trying the lever adjust 1st.

    This pushrod hex screw of which you speak--is that the reach adjustment screw or the one behind the base of the lever--i.e. a bit farther out than the reach adj. screw? Even with my contact knob all the way "out," my rear lever in particular almost bottoms on the fat OURY's I'm running...

  10. #10
    Get Down Do you
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    Quote Originally Posted by SteveF
    This pushrod hex screw of which you speak--is that the reach adjustment screw or the one behind the base of the lever--i.e. a bit farther out than the reach adj. screw? Even with my contact knob all the way "out," my rear lever in particular almost bottoms on the fat OURY's I'm running...

    Yes the reach Adjustment screw is what you need to adjust.. The other screw is to keep the push rod assembly in place.
    Progression is fine just remember to respect your roots.



    [SIZE="3"] Click to see my Orange Ano Blur LT[/SIZE]

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