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  1. #1
    Classic weekend warrior
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    Avid Juicy 3 Squeak on New bike.. Pads Sticking?

    I just finished my maiden voyage on my X-Cal. About an hour into my ride a developed a squeak in the front.

    When I got home and checked everything out, it turns out that the brakes are squeaking. The rotor isn't bent.

    Generally, I wouldn't let a squeak bother me, especially on a brand new bike figuring let everything break in... but when I lift the front up and spin the tire it becomes evident that the pads are sticking (i presume?) because the tire doesn't freewheel nicely.

    So..... this is my first hydraulic setup. Before I go taking the caliper and pads off I wanted to ask for advice from you all first. I'm very mechanically inclined... and have dealt with hundreds of brake setups on cars & trucks; but at the same time I don't want to apply knowledge from automobiles to my bike where something may be setup or work differently.

    Any help is appreciated. Is it as simple as just taking the caliper off and cleaning the arbor that holds the pads? Should I try bleeding them?
    -09 GF X-Caliber
    -38Frameworks Jackalope
    -13 Mukluk 2 (hers)

  2. #2
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    Unless someone has some other recommendations, im going to follow the instructions in this thread to see if they're sticking/free them up Juicy owners, beware the sticky piston!
    -09 GF X-Caliber
    -38Frameworks Jackalope
    -13 Mukluk 2 (hers)

  3. #3
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    Problem solved.

    For any other new bikers here's what I did (you dont have to be incredibly mechanically inclined, so don't be afraid)

    1) Support my bike so the front is in the air (J hook in ceiling with strap works great)
    2) Press & Release brakes a few times to see which caliper is sticking (more so for an FYI, since I cleaned both anyway as you will see)
    3) Remove front tire
    4) Remove pads per page 55 of the tech manual found here: http://www.sram.com/_media/pdf/avid/.../TM_MY09_E.pdf
    5) Make sure both calipers are fully depressed ( small box end wrench works wonders)
    6) Hold one side in with box end wrench and carefully depress brake lever to extend piston about 1/8". Drip some lubrication on the piston (I used air-tool oil but a lot of members on this board recommend using Dot 3 or 4 fluid)
    7) Depress piston using box end wrench
    8) Repeat cycle for same piston (2-3 cycles... you'll notice a huge difference in how it moves once the oil works itself in)
    9) Repeat steps 5-8 for other piston (it may already be free, but why not clean it for good measure
    10) I used some fine grit sandpaper to scuff up the pads & to create a flat surface incase they started wearing oddly due to the stuck piston.
    11) Reinstall per tech manual provided in step 4.
    12) Depress brake lever slowly and hold... do this a few times to make sure everything is working. Spin the front tire to make sure it spins freely.
    13) Go for a ride and use some light brake pressure to work in the new pad surface

    ^^^ Seems like a lot of steps.. but its not

    I'll probably do this every month or so (minus scuffing the pads) to keep the pistons free. Once you know how to do it, it really does only take 5-10 minutes
    -09 GF X-Caliber
    -38Frameworks Jackalope
    -13 Mukluk 2 (hers)

  4. #4
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    Helped me a lot! Thanks man!

  5. #5
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    you need to take care using something metal like a box wrench when retracting the piston as it is made of ceramic and you could easily damage it. Better to use something non-metal but stiff enough to do the job like a plastic tire lever or old toothbrush. Also, make sure you are applying pressure in the middle of the piston so you don't damage the caliper where the piston sits. It is sometimes a little difficult to get leverage in there as there is not a lot of room, but just be patient and keep at it till you compress the piston all the way. Holding it in there is a lot easier than retracting
    2008 Trek Fuel EX 8

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