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  1. #1
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    Avid hydros continue to confuse me..help!

    The issue I have been battling is that my rear brake lever had too much travel before the pads contact the rotor. When I install new pads, there is no issue. As they wear, it requires more and more lever action to get the same feel. Today, I took out the r. wheels and pumped the pistons out until the pads touched. Then, I pushed them back in so I could get the rotors back in. Problem is better, now they are nice and tight again. I am just suffering sticky pistons? They don't seem to stick - they always retract back in quickly and never drag.
    Geologist by trade...bicycle mechanic (former) by the grace of God!

    2012 Specialized Stumpy EVO 29 HT

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by TiGeo View Post
    The issue I have been battling is that my rear brake lever had too much travel before the pads contact the rotor. When I install new pads, there is no issue. As they wear, it requires more and more lever action to get the same feel. Today, I took out the r. wheels and pumped the pistons out until the pads touched. Then, I pushed them back in so I could get the rotors back in. Problem is better, now they are nice and tight again. I am just suffering sticky pistons? They don't seem to stick - they always retract back in quickly and never drag.
    Its a problem I see sometimes after a bleed or when one is necessary. If you have a pad contact adjuster or a reach adjustment they could both be the culprit, heres why:

    If there isnt enough brake fluid in the system or the pad contact or reach adjustment dials where out at all when the brake was bled, the pads wont get good contact when you pull the lever. I would try bleeding the brakes with the adjusters backed all the way out, reinstall your pads and see where you are at that point. If the pistons are sticking, whichthey may be, try the above steps again after removing the pistons and cleaning the parts that are exposed dueing braking as well as the recess where they live. Usually that helps fix the problem or gets rid of it altogether.

    Hope this helps!

    -FreuderLocks
    2010 Mosaic SS 29er
    2012 Cannondale Jekyll 2 Carbon

    FreuderLocks is an S-TEC certified bike mechanic.

  3. #3
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    What model is your Avid, TG. I agree with Freuder check the fluid.

  4. #4
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    Elixir 7s. I don't have pad contact adjustments. I am going to clean the pistons next time I have it apart. I have bled them multiple times. I am telling you, Shimano or Magura next year.
    Geologist by trade...bicycle mechanic (former) by the grace of God!

    2012 Specialized Stumpy EVO 29 HT

  5. #5
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    Second on double-checking the reach adjusters before you bleed. Taken from SRAM's bleed instructions for Elixir 7's:

    "For models equipped with Reach Adjust, make sure the tip of the lever blade is 75-80 mm from the centerline of the handlebar. If the lever is too far out, it can make bleeding the brake impossible."

    It does also sound like cleaning up the pistons as much as possible would also be warranted.

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