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  1. #1
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    Avid Elixr 1 Questions

    A pair of Avid Elixr 1s came OEM on my new bike. I've read some horror stories about Elixr brakes, but mine have been fine so far, so I'm cautiously optimistic. A couple of questions:

    - I see Avid replacement pads can have either a steel or aluminum backing plate. What are the advantages and disadvantages to the steel and Al?

    - Does the little bolt (pad pin) that keeps the brake pads and spring from falling out of the caliper come with the replacement pads?

    - The Elixr 1s use a cotter pin in place of the pad pin that is used on all of the other Elixr models. No doubt, its a little cheaper with the cotter pin, and 1s are the entry level brake, so I understand. But I'd find it hard to pull a cotter pin out and replace it on the trail unless I started riding with some needle nosed pliers. So I'd like to make my Elixr 1s take the pad pins like th eother Elixrs. I think that I have to thread the hole for the pad pin. Has anyone else done this? If so, any idea which tap I need?

  2. #2
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    1) Steel pads are heavier, the aluminum ones are lighter. Likely, that is the only benefit you will see, though the two materials have different heat transmission rates.

    2) No. Avid replacements come with neither the cotter pin or pad spring. They can be bought from just about anywhere. Aftermarket pads sometimes come with the spring, but nobody sells all three in one go. I would check with a local bike shop if you happen to need either, as they will likely have extras knocking around from busted equipment.

    3) Not sure of the size tap you need off the top of my head, but it can be done. Realistically, though, there is not much you will be able to fix on the trail with a hydro brake that removing the pads would facilitate. I wouldn't spend the money on the taps unless you can justify it somewhere else.

  3. #3
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    Thanks. I have a tap and die set, so I may have the thread tool already. Will check with the LBS for the pad pin the next time that I'm there.

    I realize that there isn't a lot that I can do as far as a trailside repair to any hydraulic brake, but changing pads is certainly one of them. And I've had to do it a couple of times, usually when I decide that the pads are fine for "another ride or two." The cotter pin seems like it could be a real PITA to get out when wet, muddy, or whatever. My Magura brakes have a threaded pin with a small hex socket and they're easy to deal with.

  4. #4
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    Get your brakes checked by your LBS, there is a recall out on elixxir 1's

  5. #5
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    Get your brakes checked by your LBS, there is a recall out on elixxir 1's
    Could you give me a website or something where I can find more info on this?

  6. #6
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    SRAM Service | SRAM (see bottom left of page)

    According to sram's website, there are no tsb's or recalls out on their products at this time. Link to the recall, or it's bull.

  7. #7
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    Thanks, Cotharyus. I couldn't find anything on the US Consumer Product Safety Commission website, either. The last SRAM recall listed there was in 2009 and there were not any SRAM/Avid brakes listed at all.

  8. #8
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    check your pm's

  9. #9
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    Why not post online for everyone that has Elixir 1's to see?

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by flynbryan19 View Post
    Why not post online for everyone that has Elixir 1's to see?
    Im not at work so I dont have access to it....?

  11. #11
    cowbell
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    Please, post from work where you have access to it, or make a copy of it, or write down exactly what it is, and then post it from home, or whatever you have to do. Also, lets be clear that you're talking about a dealer service bulletin, not a recall. These are two very different things. Sorry if this comes across harsh, but clarity in communication is important. I want to be clear as well - thank you for bringing up the fact that there's a service bulletin on these brakes. I'll +rep you when you post what the service bulletin is about.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by kcvpr View Post
    Im not at work so I dont have access to it....?
    Kxvpr, just give us a run down on the elixir 1s being recalled would you please, or put the link up.



    And OP there is no way you ever have to change your pads on a ride, if you have to do that your not doing proper maintenance at home, the split pin issue is a total non issue, there is absolutly no reason to tap out threads in your elixer 1s ..
    Dont ever let the truth get in the way of a funny story....

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by JoeG View Post
    Thanks. I have a tap and die set, so I may have the thread tool already. Will check with the LBS for the pad pin the next time that I'm there.

    I realize that there isn't a lot that I can do as far as a trailside repair to any hydraulic brake, but changing pads is certainly one of them. And I've had to do it a couple of times, usually when I decide that the pads are fine for "another ride or two." The cotter pin seems like it could be a real PITA to get out when wet, muddy, or whatever. My Magura brakes have a threaded pin with a small hex socket and they're easy to deal with.
    carry on, theres always a first for everything on this site.....
    Dont ever let the truth get in the way of a funny story....

  14. #14
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    The cotter pin is fine to use, really. I think you should ride with a multitool that has pliers, but that's me.

    You could still easily set the cotter pin to be trail removable with just some tools like hex wrenches. Only bend the end a slight amount, and face it outboard. You can probably bend it back with just a hex wrench against some part of the caliper for leverage. Or, you could stick a small hex wrench though the eye of the pin and just yank it out.

    If you tap the caliper, your warranty is void. That seems foolish with SRAM brakes. You could just file the threads off the screw and rely on the little clip on the end of the screw if you really want tool-less removal.


    Oh, and the retail packaged Avid pads we have at the shop have the spring and a cotter pin included. Springs can be destroyed if you wear your pads down too much.

  15. #15
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    Anything that falls between the code 1may12B and 21sept12B written on the caliper is up for the service bulletin.


    It is due to an undersized o-ring in the lever body

    I can post pictures of the tech doc when I get home from work if necessary.

  16. #16
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    Thanks for the date code range. I just checked my brakes and they are not in the code range covered by the service bulletin. Mine were 9Nov12B and 31Oct12B.

    Posting the document would probably be useful to someone who has brakes that are affected as some shops probably aren't aware of the service bulletin.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by kcvpr View Post
    Anything that falls between the code 1may12B and 21sept12B written on the caliper is up for the service bulletin.


    It is due to an undersized o-ring in the lever body

    I can post pictures of the tech doc when I get home from work if necessary.
    Thanks mate, appreciate it, cheers
    Dont ever let the truth get in the way of a funny story....

  18. #18
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    Anyone know what the failure mode is with this problem? What happens when it goes wrong? What does the lever feel like/do?

  19. #19
    cowbell
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    There is no "failure" with this. If your brake falls in that range you may have a brake that works 'fine' but doesn't feel right on the lever. My Anthem came with Elixir 1's on it, and the back brake has always been fine, but the front brake never did feel right. It wasn't soft like it needed bleeding, but it didn't feel as solid as the rear brake did either. Turns out the front brake is in the range specified, but the rear brake is an 'A' brake.

    KCVPR - thanks. You've answered a nagging question for me about a bike I love. I've +rep'd you for coming through with the information, and I'm thanking you multiple times helping me get to the bottom of a very strange problem. My shop was unaware of this bulletin.

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cotharyus View Post
    There is no "failure" with this. If your brake falls in that range you may have a brake that works 'fine' but doesn't feel right on the lever. My Anthem came with Elixir 1's on it, and the back brake has always been fine, but the front brake never did feel right. It wasn't soft like it needed bleeding, but it didn't feel as solid as the rear brake did either. Turns out the front brake is in the range specified, but the rear brake is an 'A' brake.

    KCVPR - thanks. You've answered a nagging question for me about a bike I love. I've +rep'd you for coming through with the information, and I'm thanking you multiple times helping me get to the bottom of a very strange problem. My shop was unaware of this bulletin.
    You're very welcome, I am glad I could help you solve a problem with your bike.

    If your shop was wondering, I got the info off of Dexter (the Trek dealer page).

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kanik View Post
    Anyone know what the failure mode is with this problem? What happens when it goes wrong? What does the lever feel like/do?
    As far as i know, the "failure mode", is that when the seal finally lets go the lever feels like it needs a bleed... But no matter how hard you try you cant get rid of all the bubbles.

  22. #22
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    Update: The front brake on my bike WAS affected by this. The rear was not. The nail in the coffin when SRAM had my LBS mechanic checking things was not lever feel or bleeding and not being able to get rid of all the bubbles (but it did that too) but rather that it actually seeped a little fluid.

    SRAM/AVID are doing the right thing for their customers. At the time my LBS was speaking to them, they did not have any Elixir 1 brakes to match mine, so they sent a complete SET (front and rear, new rotors as well) of something better.

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cotharyus View Post
    Update: The front brake on my bike WAS affected by this. The rear was not. The nail in the coffin when SRAM had my LBS mechanic checking things was not lever feel or bleeding and not being able to get rid of all the bubbles (but it did that too) but rather that it actually seeped a little fluid.

    SRAM/AVID are doing the right thing for their customers. At the time my LBS was speaking to them, they did not have any Elixir 1 brakes to match mine, so they sent a complete SET (front and rear, new rotors as well) of something better.
    Did you get your new brakes yet? I'll bet they're XO's...

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cotharyus View Post
    SRAM/AVID are doing the right thing for their customers. At the time my LBS was speaking to them, they did not have any Elixir 1 brakes to match mine, so they sent a complete SET (front and rear, new rotors as well) of something better.
    Interesting; my LBS called because I'm having problems with my brakes (which fall in the date range listed in this thread) and Avid said there was no service issue. They're sending pads and rotors to try and fix another problem, but have nothing to say about the poor lever feel. I'm going to have the shop do a bleed when they swap parts, but if that doesn't fix the issue I'm going SLX. It'll tick me off to have to buy replacement brakes, but I'm tired of chasing fixes for the Elixir 1s.

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Uncle Knobby View Post
    Interesting; my LBS called because I'm having problems with my brakes (which fall in the date range listed in this thread) and Avid said there was no service issue. They're sending pads and rotors to try and fix another problem, but have nothing to say about the poor lever feel. I'm going to have the shop do a bleed when they swap parts, but if that doesn't fix the issue I'm going SLX. It'll tick me off to have to buy replacement brakes, but I'm tired of chasing fixes for the Elixir 1s.
    I would try another tech at sram. If your brakes truly do fit into that date code range they should fall under the warranty/ service bulletin. It is especially weird that they wont do anything since the lever feel is already compromised.

    I would try again, if I was you. If they dont want to play ball, ask for their supervisor.

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