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  1. #1
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    Avid BB7 2011 help needed:)

    Hi Guys,
    I've found set of Avid BB7 2011 160mm disc brakes.
    Is there any way to tell if they are genuine 2011 model by just looking at the picture?

    http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/2011-AVID-BB7-...item2c5bdcdaa4

    Regards
    Pete

  2. #2
    Rub it............
    Reputation: frdfandc's Avatar
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    Yes looks like a genuine BB7 to me and I work in a LBS.

    BTW, I have never seen a counterfeit BB7.

    And with a feedback rating of 99%, you should be fine.

    However, the 2010 model is identical to the 2011, and if you can find them, they will be a tad cheaper in price.

  3. #3
    Albany West Oz
    Reputation: Freediver's Avatar
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    http://www.jensonusa.com/store/produ...+Brake+10.aspx

    These guys have saved me heaps...it does says front and rear on the ebay ad, but then that could mean will work on front or rear, are you sure it is a pair? Seems expensive for one.

  4. #4
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    Reputation: frdfandc's Avatar
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    I didn't see that it was a pair. A little pricey for one. But kinda cheap for a complete set.

  5. #5
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    You can get them cheaper here, http://www.universalcycles.com/shopp...89&category=19 . And your $25 to $30 shipping costs will get you UPS 2nd Day, or if you go with the "Economy Flex Ship" option shipping is free! Even with the Flex Ship your worst case scenario would likely be 5 to 7 days arrival. With the Ebay seller you're looking at 7-12 days best case.

    Bottom line is, Ebay shipped price $205, Universal shipped price $177. Shipping time, Ebay 7-12 working days at best, Universal 1 day for processing, 2 days ship time, 3 days max. Yeah it's only a $28 difference, but money is money. And that $28 would cover the additional if you wanted to go with say a 185 front rotor.

    On top of that, the Universal brakes are not OE overstock, they are aftermarket direct from the factory. And they come with the G2 rotors instead of the G3s. While the G3s are slightly lighter than the G2s, the G2s are actually a better rotor for the BB7 brake. The G3s have a narrower braking track and are more finicky to set up with the BB7 caliper. The G3s were designed specifically for the Elixir brake. They'll work with the BBs but will call for a bit more fines to set up.

    Not plugging Universal Cycles necessarily, but definitely advocating doing a bit more shopping around. You can do better price wise than that Ebay seller for 2011 BB7s, unless you are dead set on having the G3 rotor. Just sayin"...

    Good Dirt
    "I do whatever my Rice Cripsies tell me to!"

  6. #6
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    Hi guys,
    Thanks for your replies I contacted the seller and this is indeed just 1 brake... not a set.
    I was actually hoping you could give me a bit more advice.

    The thing is I'm looking at these brakes because atm I have Juicy 3s and no matter what I do I cannot eliminate the slight rub... it's driving me mad. The fact that a percentage of your power used when riding is actually wasted is not cool at all.

    Now, I'm kind of a newbie into the whole brake zone and I haven't bled my brakes since I got the bike (nearly 2 years now).
    I guess the problem is with pistons not coming back, being a bit sticky if you know what I mean. Is this something that can be fixed with bleeding procedure or I would need to do a bit more than that?

    I have never bled brakes before and I thought I would be better off with buying BB7 as I think they aren't as difficult to install and maintain as Juicy 3?

    Could you advise whether I should just ditch my Juicys and get BB7 or try to fix them?
    I don't want to give my bike to the LBS as they charge as much as the price of new brakes...

    Thanks a lot.
    Pete

  7. #7
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    Reputation: frdfandc's Avatar
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    Is it an occasional rub, one that rubs, then doesn't, rubs, then doesn't? Or a constant rub?

    How are you adjusting the caliper? Loosening the 2 caliper bolts and squeezing the lever several times? If so, your going to have to start eyeballing the distance between the pads and rotor as sometimes the pistons do not move evenly sometimes.

    If its an occasional rub, you can take an adjustable wrench and gently bend the rotor away from where its contacting.

    I

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by frdfandc
    Is it an occasional rub, one that rubs, then doesn't, rubs, then doesn't? Or a constant rub?

    How are you adjusting the caliper? Loosening the 2 caliper bolts and squeezing the lever several times? If so, your going to have to start eyeballing the distance between the pads and rotor as sometimes the pistons do not move evenly sometimes.

    If its an occasional rub, you can take an adjustable wrench and gently bend the rotor away from where its contacting.

    I
    It is a constant rub. Yes that how I adjust the caliper.

  9. #9
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    This might help with your setup. you should never have to unbolt the BB7 unless your installing new pads and starting from scratch again. Just adjust outer and inner pads as need but not too much. BB7 are the best mechanical brakes i ever owned once you learn how to use them properly!!

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x1kezXQVnLY

  10. #10
    Master of Disaster
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    Avid BB7 Mechanical Disc Brake '10 (160/185/203mm) - $45.99 + shipping
    http://www.jensonusa.com/store/produ...0.aspx?sc=FRGL
    I'm gonna miss me when I'm gone.
    IMBA member #234701

  11. #11
    Class Clown
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    Quote Originally Posted by Clones123
    Avid BB7 Mechanical Disc Brake '10 (160/185/203mm) - $45.99 + shipping
    http://www.jensonusa.com/store/produ...0.aspx?sc=FRGL
    Just installed these, pretty sweet deal.

    I don't think it would be that hard to bleed your brakes though, it's not even that difficult on a car.

  12. #12
    Master of Disaster
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    Quote Originally Posted by dundundata
    I don't think it would be that hard to bleed your brakes though, it's not even that difficult on a car.
    Depends - paint-eating DOT fluid and maybe banjo bolts vs mineral oil with barb & olive connections. One is a lot harder than the other.
    I'm gonna miss me when I'm gone.
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  13. #13
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    G3 rotor = 2011

  14. #14
    Fueled by Tigerblood
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    I ran bb7's with g3's no problem

  15. #15
    ~Disc~Golf~
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    Quote Originally Posted by petexx
    It is a constant rub. ....
    yep, that's the nature of those brakes - bottom-barrel hydros.

    Hydro lovers [frosty struthers] will still tell you that they are better just for their method of actuation tho

    Those pads don't retract well - I don't know why I'm telling you this as you know this
    Honestly... ahh I give up

  16. #16
    Green Wrencher
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    Quote Originally Posted by highdelll
    yep, that's the nature of those brakes - bottom-barrel hydros.

    Hydro lovers [frosty struthers] will still tell you that they are better just for their method of actuation tho

    Those pads don't retract well - I don't know why I'm telling you this as you know this

    So what is a good mid-level entry for Hydro brakes? Mechanical?

    This newb's head is spinning trying to find the right first bike...

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by CoppellStereo
    G3 rotor = 2011


    G3 rotor has a narrower sweep area than the G2's and is only recommended for the Elixers and will not get full brake pad contact on the rotor.

    The G2 is recommended for the Juicy's and BB7/5's.

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