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  1. #1
    Knowledge over Swag
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    Avid BB5 Trouble

    I have a 2011 Giant Revel 0 with Avid BB5 mech discs. The outer pad is adjustable, the inner is not. I cannot seem to properly adjust the wheel/rotor to have the inner pad relevent in braking, which I am assuming will cause pre-me brake pad wear. I am considering switching to BB7's as both pads are adjustable, but my brakeset is relatively new so I at least want to finish the season with them.

  2. #2
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    I found that offsetting the caliper slightly towards the moving pad (I'd call it the outside pad... the one the cable actuates) and tightening the inside (fixed) pad so that it nearly touches the rotor worked the best. The only way to adjust the outside pad towards the rotor is to either tighten the cable (usually by tightening the arm on the cable further up towards the cable housing than if you let it spring out then tighten the arm) or offset the caliper. When my pads got a little worn, the cable pre-load wasn't enough and I had to offset the caliper anyway. I bought new pads but the ones on it had a lot of life left if I had just been smart enough to offset the caliper to begin with. A combination of offsetting the caliper and preloading the cable is probably best.

    -Eric

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by ej63090 View Post
    ...the inner is not...
    ??? Avid_BB5_Setup - YouTube

  4. #4
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    If you take your wheels off be prepared to readjust the brakes every time unless you get the QR perfectly like it was before.

    If you dont have the disc centered properly having BB7s wont help at all, trust me. I can setup my front perfectly in about a minute but the rear always takes me longer because its harder to get the disc lined up correctly for whatever reason.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by gmcttr View Post
    My bad, I mean't outer.

  6. #6
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    You have to undo CPS and tighten holding lever each time you remove the wheel. My BB5's were rubbish when they were not adjusted even though I thought I had adjusted them properly. You need to have the torque arm preloaded a bit (1.5cm). Then turn inboard pad adjuster in until it starts to hit the disc a good amount, not just slight rubbing. Pull on brake lever and tighten CPS on at a time, and then turn inboard pad adjuster out until slight-no rub, I have little rub, but you can't hear it when riding. Also make sure that the rotor is not bending or flexing when you pull the brake lever. If it is, you need to turn the inboard pad adjuster and re do the CPS bolts.

    This got me to 2 finger stopping power.

  7. #7
    rebmem rbtm
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    Quote Originally Posted by bikeman1 View Post

    You have to undo CPS and tighten holding lever each time you remove the wheel.
    That's a load of garbage.

  8. #8
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    Well, I kind of have to, otherwise I get rub so the wheel doesn't spin freely.

  9. #9
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    I never had trouble with it re-centering properly after removing the wheel unless I had something wrong. Running the QR a little tighter and ensuring everything was straight before I clamped it down helped a LOT.

    -Eric

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by bballr4567 View Post
    If you take your wheels off be prepared to readjust the brakes every time unless you get the QR perfectly like it was before.
    Quote Originally Posted by bikeman1 View Post
    You have to undo CPS and tighten holding lever each time you remove the wheel.
    No offence meant, but these are both terrible suggestions. It shows a complete misunderstanding how how a bike brake works.

    The QR does not need to be positioned "perfectly" to get a brake positioned correctly, though it's a commonly shared suggestion. As long as a wheel is centered in the dropouts and the QR lever is tightened using the cam sufficiently, it doesn't matter the position or particular tension (the force required to remove the lever should be between firm and hella-tight) of the lever. The cause of brake rubbing after wheel removal is usually failure to properly center the wheel in the dropouts. You can avoid this by putting the wheel on with the bike's weight on the wheel. I take the bike, put the wheel on, leave the lever open, rock the wheel side to side to get it to settle, put one hand on the stem (or saddle) and apply downward pressure to hold it in the centered position, and finally close the QR using the other hand.

    First time I've ever heard this one, but needing to adjust the CPS washers every wheel removal is absolutely not what the system is designed to do. This can almost certainly be traced back to the same problem, improperly seated wheel. The CPS system, while awful, is meant only to adjust the side to side position and the angle of the caliper in relation to the rotor. If the wheel is in the dropouts properly, it returns to the same position each time and won't cause a need to adjust the caliper.

    OP: If I understand you correctly, you are having trouble adjusting the moving pad in the system? If so, you can use the barrel adjuster(s) at the caliper or the lever to fine tune the position of the moving pad. You adjust the fixed pad (inboard) using the red dial and you adjust the moving pad by using the barrel adjuster(s). Hope that helps.
    Don't you hate it when a sentence doesn't end the way you think it octopus?

  11. #11
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    My crappy QR on my Hardrock is impossible to set it exactly the same every time even if there is downward pressure. Only thing that helps is to have the QR lever pointed in thw right direction. Even my LBS had trouble recentering my rear wheel after removal because they were putting tension in the wrong direction. It does make a difference.

  12. #12
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    +1 to zebrahum's suggestion.

    Once properly set up, you DO NOT need to readjust the calipers of your disc brakes when you remove the wheel (for ANY disc brake model).

    Disc brake calipers are a set and forget item. Bolt 'em on and once properly set up, you don't need to readjust them. Some hydro models require you to remove the calipers if you bleed the system, but there is no reason to do that for a cable actuated model.

    My household has two bikes with BB7's and one bike with Magura Julie hydros. Set and forget.

    CPS is a PITA because you don't need all that adjustability if you get the disc tabs properly faced. Unfortunately, just about every bike company is cheap and doesn't face disc tabs on their frames before they build up the bike. And most shops aren't going to put that additional work into a low end bike when they build it. But when installing discs yourself, GET THE TABS FACED and you will save yourself mountains of headache.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by bballr4567 View Post
    My crappy QR on my Hardrock is impossible to set it exactly the same every time even if there is downward pressure. Only thing that helps is to have the QR lever pointed in thw right direction. Even my LBS had trouble recentering my rear wheel after removal because they were putting tension in the wrong direction. It does make a difference.
    Fair enough, but that indicates a problem. It's not that your QR is position dependent it indicates that you have a problem that keeps your wheel from centering properly. It might be a burr on the QR mating surface, a problem in the cam of the QR that keeps it from closing square, or perhaps some paint that prevents the system from sitting down flush and square when tightened.

    Your bike shop solved the problem in the most cost effective manner to the customer which is the right way 99% of the time and I'm not saying it isn't the right way here. All I'm suggesting is that there is an underlying issue that is keeping your QR from working properly and by properly I mean not position sensitive. If QRs were meant to close in a certain position it would be clearly stated on them and bicycles/QRs would be designed such that it would be "impossible" to mess up. Lawyers would see to that.
    Don't you hate it when a sentence doesn't end the way you think it octopus?

  14. #14
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    Well, I've also got my BB7s setup really tight.

    I do agree with you that you shouldn't have to readjust the CPS bolts every time but there might be some adjusting that will need to be done if you do not get the QR tensioned to the same you had when you first centered them.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by zebrahum View Post
    No offence meant, but these are both terrible suggestions. It shows a complete misunderstanding how how a bike brake works.

    The QR does not need to be positioned "perfectly" to get a brake positioned correctly, though it's a commonly shared suggestion. As long as a wheel is centered in the dropouts and the QR lever is tightened using the cam sufficiently, it doesn't matter the position or particular tension (the force required to remove the lever should be between firm and hella-tight) of the lever. The cause of brake rubbing after wheel removal is usually failure to properly center the wheel in the dropouts. You can avoid this by putting the wheel on with the bike's weight on the wheel. I take the bike, put the wheel on, leave the lever open, rock the wheel side to side to get it to settle, put one hand on the stem (or saddle) and apply downward pressure to hold it in the centered position, and finally close the QR using the other hand.

    First time I've ever heard this one, but needing to adjust the CPS washers every wheel removal is absolutely not what the system is designed to do. This can almost certainly be traced back to the same problem, improperly seated wheel. The CPS system, while awful, is meant only to adjust the side to side position and the angle of the caliper in relation to the rotor. If the wheel is in the dropouts properly, it returns to the same position each time and won't cause a need to adjust the caliper.

    OP: If I understand you correctly, you are having trouble adjusting the moving pad in the system? If so, you can use the barrel adjuster(s) at the caliper or the lever to fine tune the position of the moving pad. You adjust the fixed pad (inboard) using the red dial and you adjust the moving pad by using the barrel adjuster(s). Hope that helps.
    I had no idea that you could adjust the moving pad with the barrel adjuster. I will try that when I get home tonight. Thanks!

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by ej63090 View Post
    I had no idea that you could adjust the moving pad with the barrel adjuster. I will try that when I get home tonight. Thanks!
    Just remember that you only have so much adjustment available from the barrel adjusters so you might have to also loosen the pinch bolt and pull the cable through to get it close then use the barrel adjusters to fine tune. That's what I would recommend. If you wind the barrel adjusters out too far you increase the chance they will be damaged and you loose some ability to adjust out on the trail.
    Don't you hate it when a sentence doesn't end the way you think it octopus?

  17. #17
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    I am going to see how much my LBS will charge to do adjustments throughout my bike. I have some cable strech and my derailers need adjusting. The place I bought my bike from is a bit far for that. I need to get a new saddle anyway.

  18. #18
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    I have BB5's on mine and my son's bike. I have never had an issue with them. I followed the install instructions to a "T" and adjust them according the instructions (on the Avid/Sram web sight). Simple ... fool proof ... no shop fees. I have never experienced any QR issues (unless the QR had a problem (bent)).
    I would start from square one and work forward to proper set-up and adjustment. It's what an LBS will do and they will make you pay. Save some cash.

  19. #19
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    Ahhh the joys of BB7's and their dual pad adjustment knobs

  20. #20
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    I found the problem. The brake cable has seemed to strech, causing the moving pad to not move enough. I adjusted the cable and is working normally now. Still keeping in mind a BB7 upgrade for next Spring/Summer though. Anyone know where I can pick up Calipers soley?

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