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  1. #1
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    ATE Super Blue racing brake fluid for Juicys?

    I know you're supposed to use DOT 5.1 but this fluid (which is a DOT 4) is rated 20 deg higher in wet and dry boiling point (and I have a full bottle of it anyway). Anyone had this experience?

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  3. #3
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    Why not. DOT3, DOT4 and DOT5.1 will all work.

    I spent a buck at the dollar store for some DOT3. A bicycle will never hit 200+ mph followed by a 100 foot stop like a MotoGP Superbike. So.....5.1 is a waste of money.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by ron m. View Post
    I know you're supposed to use DOT 5.1 but this fluid (which is a DOT 4) is rated 20 deg higher in wet and dry boiling point (and I have a full bottle of it anyway). Anyone had this experience?
    Most racing fluids of this type are incompatible with magnesium. Check very carefully that your particular juicys do not have magnesium components. If good, you will have Superior fluid to normal dot rated 4 or 5.1.

    Probably more hydrophilic so you will find the pistons don't push back without bleeding a little fluid at the lever. Probably worth replacing on a more frequent basis.

    More maintenance. More cost. Extra performance that you might notice if your brakes would otherwise be on the verge of failure through fluid vaporisation. I have used racing fluids in hope mono m4s and formula the ones for alpine descents.

    Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk

  5. #5
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    This is what I roll with

    I run this in my Juicy 7's and will replace in my Elixir 1 when I bleed them next.

    Motul RBF 600 Performance Brake Fluid
    Early to bed early to RIZE makes a man healthy, wealthy <(scratch that) and wize.

    RIGHTY on a LEFTY

  6. #6
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    Thanks, guys.

    These go into my Juicy 3s. Not too thrilled with this low end brake for my AM bike (Heckler) but I guess it would do until a find a hell of a deal. I am certain there's air in my line right now because the brake levers hit full travel by the time I'm midway through a DH run (really annoying when you lose confidence on slowing down the bike).

    I have a full liter of the blue stuff, which is why I posted the question. And I don't know how much heat is generated from the frictional forces of the pads to the rotors, but there isn't a lot of thermal mass in terms of fluid volume to dissipate that heat so I'd rather go higher grade. I don't think low end Juicys have magnesium bits either so I think it'll be okay.

  7. #7
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    Nobody has mentioned the best thing about Super Blue:

    That it's dyed blue so you know that if you fill the lines from the top, just keep on filling until you see blue at the caliper, then you're done.

    ATE also makes a Gold compound so you can go back and forth to ensure that you have purged all the old oil when changing.

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    but you get 1L can, once you open it, it will absorb moisture. Motul rbf600 or 5.1 comes in smaller 0.5L bottles.
    Spoke with Avid tech line and Motul is fine according to them. I would not experiment with Super Blue. I used it in my old GTI but it has all steel parts and nothing made of Mg alloy.
    BTW. there were reports of Super Blue die causing leaks in some modern cars.

  9. #9
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    I've been using the Super Blue and Gold in my Juicys since 2005, two different sets on bikes now with a flush once per year. It's better than the stock 5.1 I used from 2003 to 5 and makes me feel like I be smart when I uses the color variation to verify I done purged all the old out. Me smart, me DONE. Easy.

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