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  1. #1
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    Anybody else despise avids CPS system?

    Any sources for a single washer/spacer to take the space of the CPS stack? 99% of frames and forks don't need this system and I would just as soon ditch it.

  2. #2
    007
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    What's the problem with it? Once properly torqued, it shouldn't move . . . shouldn't you be able to flip the washers around to make it so they don't move? (e.g., concave against a concave surface).

    I agree that its a good concept poorly executed.

  3. #3
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    Once it's adjusted and torqued yeah it's not a problem. But getting the caliper adjusted is the problem. Every other caliper only has two plains to worry about the Avid system has three. That third plane triples the amount of time it takes to adjust a caliper.

    Putting a concave surface against another would only make things worse. The only real solution to effectively remove the "feature" is to put a shim in place of the CPS hardware.

  4. #4
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    Works for me.
    2014 Tallboy 2

  5. #5
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    Like the others have said, once properly torqued, it won't move. It's a complete doddle to set up..... Nothing in the design triples the amount of time it takes to set up, that just dosnt make sense.... loosen bolts, spin wheel, apply brake, tighten bolts. Less than 30 seconds.
    I really dont see what you're complaining about? Don't mean to sound aggressive, sorry, maybe you can be a bit more specific about whats bad about the system? It works pretty well for everyone I know

  6. #6
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    I think what he is getting at is sometimes when you tighten the bolts the caliper will move with the turning of the bolts. This is why the so many avid brakes squeal. I think its more of a problem with post mounts.
    2011 Kona unit with some carbon.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by customfab View Post
    Any sources for a single washer/spacer to take the space of the CPS stack? 99% of frames and forks don't need this system and I would just as soon ditch it.
    I just bought some flat washers from Home Depot. They should have what you need

  8. #8
    007
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    Quote Originally Posted by joehspicer@msn.com View Post
    Like the others have said, once properly torqued, it won't move. It's a complete doddle to set up..... Nothing in the design triples the amount of time it takes to set up, that just dosnt make sense.... loosen bolts, spin wheel, apply brake, tighten bolts. Less than 30 seconds.
    I really dont see what you're complaining about? Don't mean to sound aggressive, sorry, maybe you can be a bit more specific about whats bad about the system? It works pretty well for everyone I know
    The "squeeze the lever" method doesn't work nearly as well as avid (or any other MFG would like). Its the easy and lazy way to set up a caliper and I guarantee its why most Avid's make noise, vibrate, and are underpowered.

    The problem is that (as already mentioned) the CPS system adds a second plane of movement to the mix. In addition to lateral movement perpendicular to the rotor surface, the CPS also allows for a rotation of the caliper along the axis parallel to the surface. So, if your pads aren't completely identical, if they aren't perfectly square to the piston/backplate, or if you have a sticky and/or slow piston, the CPS will fail 100% of the time to set up and align the brakes properly.

    You want to set up brakes properly? Go to Hope's website and follow their instructions regardless of the brake kit you have. It takes more time, yes, but you'll get a good set up that doesn't make noise and has the power the system was designed for.

  9. #9
    007
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    Quote Originally Posted by coolatt View Post
    I just bought some flat washers from Home Depot. They should have what you need
    Yeah, short of having something custom made, I think this is your best option.

  10. #10
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    I have both hopes and avids. Have never had a problem with setting up either one..If the calper moves during tightening, compensate by moving the calper in the opposite direction before tightening.
    I never would have even realized half of the shortcomings of this system. Thank God I didnt read all these threads before the last dozen or so times I ve installed them. Think of the time I saved

  11. #11
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    Works fine the trick is to do the 2 bolts up slowly in stages go to far and it pulls itself out of alignment, and there is no worry about badly faced mounts, perfect.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Turveyd View Post
    Works fine the trick is to do the 2 bolts up slowly in stages go to far and it pulls itself out of alignment, and there is no worry about badly faced mounts, perfect.
    Good point on the facing. I changed from Avids to Hopes on one bike and had to get the fork post mounts faced so the Hopes would align properly to the disc. The caliper was cocked to the right. I have been using Avid CPS on this bike and several others over the last 6 years with no problems. Now that the fork is faced the Hopes are fabulous. Bottom line is with the CPS on Avid i never new I had a problem.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by 13pumps View Post
    Good point on the facing. I changed from Avids to Hopes on one bike and had to get the fork post mounts faced so the Hopes would align properly to the disc. The caliper was cocked to the right. I have been using Avid CPS on this bike and several others over the last 6 years with no problems. Now that the fork is faced the Hopes are fabulous. Bottom line is with the CPS on Avid i never new I had a problem.
    I had Hopes recently, rear mount has been off since 07 ( 2nd hand bike and barely working ) and the fork mount, previous owner had been riding around with barely working brakes for 4 years, no wonder he barely used it

    Avid's are fine, if you don't try to align them by eye being clever like you do with hopes and if you do the bolts up in stages, then it's near enough a perfect system and I wanted to go elsewhere but CPS was the deciding factor for me.

  14. #14
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    Never had a problem with it. Since CPS is all I know, I guess I don't see the obvious flaws.

    Now, not using an apostrophe to show possession, I bet I can get more people behind that.

  15. #15
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    Hate it. Wanna pull off the caliper to reset the pistons or change pads? Whoops, there goes all your hardware. GLHF picking up all that crap on the floor.

    When do you need to angle the caliper? If you're doing that, your rotors need to be replaced.

  16. #16
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    Jack screws..thats the answer. Set screws would help in keeping the caliper in one position and would make R&R a breeze. They would be located on either end of the mount opening and would rest against the bolt. By turning the screw in and out the caliper would follow suit. Push the caliper against the jack screws and tighten mounting bolts.

    Yea, in a perfect world tri-align is not necessary. Except for my Instigator fork with the crooked mounting plate. If things are square they are not needed.
    Last edited by 1niceride; 10-24-2011 at 05:30 PM.

  17. #17
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    Worst design I've ever seen. Face your brake tabs and the need for this goes away. The problem is the manufacturing surface finish of the CPS washers doesn't allow the fine adjustments needed to actually get the caliper straight to the rotor and instead it usually forces the caliper into a position determined by surface finish flaws.

    I don't know the size of the CPS stack right now but you should be able to easily buy spacers from McMaster-Carr to fill in that gap.
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  18. #18
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    I've never had problems with the CPS system, nor have I seen any benefit to it. I'm running it on one of my Avid brakes with no issue. I do think I ended up having to center the caliper by hand and tighten it down the first time, instead of the normal "hold brake lever, tighten bolts" routine. For my other Avid brake, I didn't have another set of CPS washers so I just got a bunch of spacers and matched the height underneath the caliper (no need to worry about the spacers above the caliper). I got the spacers from a Harbor Freight kit with like 200+ nuts, bolts, spacers, etc. for $2.

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