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  1. #1
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    Smile Another hope lever question

    Hope rebuilders: I'm just cleaning my hope mono mini 05's. Regarding the lever I was just installing new nylon washers on the blade, all I've done is remove the pivot bolt/nut as I don't want to mess with the main 2mm bolt that connects through the brass barrel.

    So I just wiggled the lever up and around to fit the washers. I guess the spring is what lets it move. Would I have done any damage doing this?

  2. #2
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    You should be fine. It would require some degree of ham-fistedness (a word?) to pull the barrel adjuster from the MC, something which would have been apparent as soon as you tried to operate the lever, either by the feeling of obstruction in the lever action or by the appearance of fluid at the adjuster.

    Out of interest, did you buy the nylon inserts by themselves? If so, where from?
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  3. #3
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    I just ordered some 1mm nylon washers from a washer/bolt company, 1mm nylon washers. They hold as well as the originals once you've done up the nut and pivot bolt. Just use a screwdriver to get the old worn ones out.

    Regarding the 05 Hope mono mini's (black/gold). Steve what's your opinion on the small amount of lever blade movement up and down and there's also a movement of a few of mm's before the blade engages. It seems Hope designed them this way, wouldn't it be better to have it all firmed up with no play? I've added an extra 0.2mm shim on top of the nylon washer to take some of the movement away and the whole set-up feels a lot more solid. The only problem that may occur with this mod is that now the tolerances are SO little that I'll get more metal on metal contact which could cause premature wear and breakage/damage from hits because the blade will have less give.

    Hope that's clear. I've only just done the mod so haven't had the time to see how it feels on the trail. It feels better but maybe in practice it's not such a good idea to have the blades set-up in a rigid manner.

  4. #4
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    By using washers in place of the inserts, you must surely end up with a fairly substantial gap between the bolt and the lever? Does this itself not result in even more play at the bolt? More play that you can only eliminate by over-tightening the nyloc nut? As it stands, your lever is not going to be very well supported at the bolt.

    I have my lever bolts set up so that there is minimal play; by tightening the bolt until the lever won't spring back, then backing it off a tiny amount until the lever moves freely again. It something that has never bothered me on the trails as I will almost always have one finger on each lever, but I admit that it does feel a little out of place during casual inspection, especially considering the quality which is so apparent throughout the rest of the brake. I believe that the new Tech levers use cartridge bearings that have eliminated any lever play, so this would seem to indicate that movement in the lever assembly is not actually necessary.
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    What luck for rulers, that men do not think - Adolf Hitler

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