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  1. #1
    DSR
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    Another Avid Mech set up Q...

    I'm sure I just need to recheck my cables and housing but thought I'd ask here.

    My Avid Mech front brake (with Avid SD levers) are braking hard on my initial pull on the lever - like in the first cm of lever pull. If I release and then pull harder, they kind of "break through" and then I have a full lever's throw worth of modulation. This doesn't happen all the time, but probably half on my first test ride since getting them set up. My thinking is that it's not full retracting half the time, which then causes it to quickly be "full brake" when I start hitting the brake next.

    Any common experiences that can quickly point me at a likely culprit?

    FYI - My routing is a pretty long loop to avoid any sharp angles.

    Thanks. S

  2. #2
    Fly Air Kona
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    Sounds like the end of the cable/ferrule (inside the barrel adjuster on lever) is not seated fully... or ther may be a burr inside the adjuster, giving you a false preliminary adjustment. Check the inside of the barrel or turn it 180 degrees either way. My son and I just had this occur while setting up Avids on his bike. It turned out to be a burr on the cable slot inside the barrel (Avid Speed Dial 5's). 1 minute with a dremel... done. Also, when set up properly, you should have a small amount of play in the cable end inside the barrel adjuster. Hope this helps.

  3. #3
    Riding free's the mind
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    Smooth brake line

    Agree with prev post, your cables must be routed with as few bends as possible and cable ends prepared a cleanly as possible.

    For some reason- maybe due to the return spring- Avid's seem to be sensitive to poor cable maintenance and/or installation. A long loop may not necessarily be better than a shorter straighter install. If you haven't already, you might try teflon coated cables or beefy ones like the Jagwire Mac. Dremel is definitely the best way to cut any brake cable.

  4. #4
    Fly Air Kona
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    Thanks HTail... forgot to mention how important cleaning and squaring the end of the was. I also found (as per riders like Zedro and Shiggy) that running full length cable housing as smoothly as possible is also the best way for Avid discs. Once I cut and square the housing, I open the teflon liner with a tiny awl. I've installed Avids on 4 different bikes in this manner and never had a problem.

  5. #5
    DSR
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    Quick follow up... Thanks HT and Avid. Question though on cutting and squaring the housing. I borrowed a buddy's dremel so this should be a better tool than my worn down cable cutter and old file. So should I use a disc attachment on the dremel to cut the housing cleaner? Is that "cutting and squaring" the housing? And what do you mean by opening the teflon liner with a tiny awl? Is an awl the pointy attachment? And should I insert that into the housing to round out the inner part of the wire lining? Just need some clarification on that. Thanks again! S

  6. #6
    On MTBR hiatus :(
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    Preferably a reinforced cut-off wheel...

    Quote Originally Posted by DSR
    Quick follow up... Thanks HT and Avid. Question though on cutting and squaring the housing. I borrowed a buddy's dremel so this should be a better tool than my worn down cable cutter and old file. So should I use a disc attachment on the dremel to cut the housing cleaner? Is that "cutting and squaring" the housing? And what do you mean by opening the teflon liner with a tiny awl? Is an awl the pointy attachment? And should I insert that into the housing to round out the inner part of the wire lining? Just need some clarification on that. Thanks again! S

    ...but even the cheapies will do (just wear goggles no matter what you use).

    Make a quick, decisive cut. Don't linger too long or you'll heat the housing to the point that the liner both inner and outer will turn to goo. One swift cut.

    Use the awl to "flute" the end of the inner liner, since the heat of the cutter will cause it to contract slightly. If you go and shove an awl in there when it is too hot from the cut, you might end up mushing the liner into a ball of crud, so be aware of this and make a few practice cuts. You can wait until it's totally cooled down, but there is a point when the inner liner is "just right" and will perfectly conform to the tip of your awl or scribe.

    Even when using a Dremel, it's important to trim any fringe hanging from the outer liner in order to prevent a spongy seating in the ferrule.

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