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  1. #1
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    Adjusting rear BB5 brake ?

    Would I adjust the rear brake the same way shown here? Putting a business card like they show?

    http://bluecollarmtb.com/2006/10/30/...l-disc-brakes/

    How is adjustment on the BB7 different/easier than on the BB5?

    As for changing brake shoes, how do you know when they're done for, when no amount of adjustment works? I don't need that, just thought I'd ask.

    Thanks!

  2. #2
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    The link is showing you how to line up your brakes for the first time so that they are parallel with the rotor so you get even pad wear and to help reduce squealing. Its not really showing you what to do as your pads wear down.

    the only difference between the bb5 and bb7 is that the bb7 has two adjustment dials (an inner and outer dial). When the pads wear down on the bb7, you can turn both dials to get the pads closer to the rotor. So adjusting is a snap.

    To adjust the pads on the BB5 for brake wear I normally do this:

    1. turn the one dial that you have clockwise as the pads wear down and don't worry about the other pad if your braking is OK.

    2. over time, if you have turned the dial a few times and now your braking is not good, take the pads out, and simply swap the left pad witht he right pad. This will give you a few more rides with good braking. Fine-tune with the red dial.

    3. If you have been on the same pads a while, and you already swapped the L and R, and you don't have good braking, its time to adjust the amount of cable tension on the caliper. You do this by turning the barrel adjustments on the cable. A counter-clockwise turn will increase tension as your pad wears down. However, depending how loose your cable is (it will stretch over time) sometimes you will turn the barrel adjusters all the way counter-clockwise and it won't be enough to get the pad closer to the rotor.

    So in that case, you will have to release the screw that clamps the cable to the brake, manually actuate the brake so it doesn't have as much "snap back" and then retighten the clamp making sure you keep the just the right amount of tension. Oh and before doing this, make sure you turn the barrels all the way "in" clock-wise so you can ajust later when your cable stretches.

    4. So if you already took steps 1,2, and 3, and now you don't have any braking power, then your pads are now so thin its time to buy new ones.
    Last edited by osmarandsara; 06-07-2009 at 09:30 PM.

  3. #3
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    My rear just isn't grabbing as tight as it was & my bike is nly 3 months old so turning the dial clockwise a little will probably do the trick.

    Thanks for the info!

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