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  1. #1
    SlowPokePete
    Reputation: PeterMiller's Avatar
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    Adjusting Avid Mechanicals

    I have new Avid mechanicals and would like to know the proper way to adjust them. Also, I installed Avid Speed Dial 7 brake levers and would like to know how to adjust them too.
    Work. Ride. Eat. Sleep.

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  2. #2
    aka Willy Vanilly
    Reputation: will8250's Avatar
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    The instructions are a good place to start. Here's how I do mine (not sure if it's the "correct" way):
    1) After setting the caliper position I run the static pad in until it starts to rub. Between each adjustment of the static pad I squeeze the brake to "reset" it or whatever (if there is a term for it).

    2) After I find the point at which the static (inboard) pad is just rubbing I back it off one or two clicks. I figure the less rotor deflection the better.

    3) Adjust the moving piston to where you like it. (In/clockwise turns of the outboard red knob on the caliper will make the brake engage further out/sooner in the lever pull and vice versa)

    4) I think that's it. I don't have Speed Dial levers so I don't really mess with the cable pull stuff at all. Oh, also, I think Avid recommends you adjust for pad wear down the line with the knobs on the caliper (not the barrel adjuster on the lever).

    Good luck!
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  3. #3
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Polk's Avatar
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    will8250 pretty well covered the basics. One thing I found that seemed to help was to adjust the cable so it holds the lever on the caliper up a bit. I know the instructions say to not pre-tension it, but for what ever reason I found it easier to set up the brakes.

    Also, it's common for the rotors to be slightly tweeked right out of the box. It's not a big deal because they are very easy to true up just by bending the rotor by hand. They do not have to be perfect, but there is usually room for improvement.

    To postion the caliper correctly in the first place I like to dial the fixed side all the way out, then place a piece of cereal box or something similar between the rotor and fixed pad. Use thinner boxes, or even a business card may work. Then just squeeze the brake and tighten down the caliper fixing bolts.

  4. #4
    Dain Bramaged
    Reputation: Dijridoo's Avatar
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    Hah! That's funny

    Quote Originally Posted by Polk
    To postion the caliper correctly in the first place I like to dial the fixed side all the way out, then place a piece of cereal box or something similar between the rotor and fixed pad. Use thinner boxes, or even a business card may work. Then just squeeze the brake and tighten down the caliper fixing bolts.
    That's funny about using the cardboard. Totally brings back memories of using a credit card to toe in my cantilever brakes. I always enjoyed that part - kind of a "lost art" getting cantis toed in perfectly.

    On a side note - I just picked up a used front Avid mech and installation seemed to go very quickly. I do notice that when the pads engage, the rotor is VERY slightly bent toward the wheel. Is this common?

  5. #5
    Baliw
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dijridoo
    On a side note - I just picked up a used front Avid mech and installation seemed to go very quickly. I do notice that when the pads engage, the rotor is VERY slightly bent toward the wheel. Is this common?
    Yes, because only one side of the caliper moves when you squeeze the lever. Since you need to have some clearance between the inner pad (which doesn't move) and the rotor, you'll always be pushing the rotor slightly towards that pad when you brake.

  6. #6
    SlowPokePete
    Reputation: PeterMiller's Avatar
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    Thanks for the help. I'll check it out.
    Work. Ride. Eat. Sleep.

    Repeat.

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