Results 1 to 23 of 23
  1. #1
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Dirteye's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    1

    New question here. Adding Disc brake tabs

    I have a brand new 1999 KHS FXT sport that I got on clearance for a great price. I tore the frame down and am all ready to weld Disc brake tabs on the rear triangle. Does any one have any suggestions before I actually break out the Tig welder and Void the frame warranty. Thanks!

  2. #2
    Are you talking to me?
    Reputation: damion's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
    Posts
    3,884

    Yeah, I have a great suggestion.

    Why not take it to a framebuilder? Do you have the IS specs, or what? That frame is steel, right? will it need heat treating after you do the welding?
    gfy

  3. #3
    I love Pisgah
    Reputation: Duckman's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    3,246

    Or you could just go here...

    Enjoy...

    The thingie in the middle.


    http://www.discbrakeadapters.com/

  4. #4
    Powered by Pulvoron
    Reputation: dirt diggler's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    269
    email gene at spicercycles dot com
    work was around 30 bucks plus shipping.








    dirt diggler

    duckman .. email about sgf rocker arms. thanks

  5. #5
    I love Pisgah
    Reputation: Duckman's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    3,246
    Well, I tried man. Glad you reminded me. Your email option isn't enabled. My mail is


    jduckster... @mindspring DOT com

  6. #6
    dirtbag
    Reputation: ranier's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2003
    Posts
    1,445
    Quote Originally Posted by Duckman
    Enjoy...

    The thingie in the middle.


    http://www.discbrakeadapters.com/


    Hey Duckman,

    Have you tried that IS disc adaptor? Looks like it just clamps around the left dropout and would probably have to increase the dropout width (between dropouts) a couple millimeters?

    Also, the downside of not having an easy to change flat. Gotta disassemble the QR first.

    da soulja

  7. #7
    Powered by Pulvoron
    Reputation: dirt diggler's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    269
    duckman,
    i emailed you, hope it went through. i also enabled my mtbr email too.

    thanks
    dirt diggler

  8. #8
    mtbr member
    Reputation: itsdoable's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    1,878
    Quote Originally Posted by commo_soulja
    Hey Duckman,

    Have you tried that IS disc adaptor? Looks like it just clamps around the left dropout and would probably have to increase the dropout width (between dropouts) a couple millimeters?

    Also, the downside of not having an easy to change flat. Gotta disassemble the QR first.

    da soulja
    Not Duckman - obviously...

    Have had this adapter on a SS frame with horizontal mounts for a few months, and it works surprisingly well dispite the uglyness.



    It will only work on flat plate like dropouts - not breezer style.

    There is no change in dropout width, it is design to fit around a shimano hub. To remove the wheel, you have to extract the QR skewer and the wheel is supose to slide out, provided you can get the thing lined up (obviously this does not work on the horizontal mount).

    The main drawback is that it can slip (rotate) a bit when you do rearward manouvers, and this will scratch up the paint (if your frame is painted...).

    Cheers,

    Tom

  9. #9
    dirtbag
    Reputation: ranier's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2003
    Posts
    1,445
    Quote Originally Posted by itsdoable
    Not Duckman - obviously...

    Have had this adapter on a SS frame with horizontal mounts for a few months, and it works surprisingly well dispite the uglyness.



    It will only work on flat plate like dropouts - not breezer style.

    There is no change in dropout width, it is design to fit around a shimano hub. To remove the wheel, you have to extract the QR skewer and the wheel is supose to slide out, provided you can get the thing lined up (obviously this does not work on the horizontal mount).

    The main drawback is that it can slip (rotate) a bit when you do rearward manouvers, and this will scratch up the paint (if your frame is painted...).

    Cheers,

    Tom

    Thanks Tom,

    Looks pretty decent and cost effective. I've got a Stumjumper that I want to convert to Avid mech discs and I definitely dont want to spend some coin just for a new frame with IS disc mounts. I've grown to love my Stumpy.

  10. #10
    I love Pisgah
    Reputation: Duckman's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    3,246
    Sorry for taking so long. Been riding today. Yes, I too will try this conversion for the 1st time. I wanna put rear discs on my beater Moab. Up till now its been front disc only.


    "Cost effective". Yeah, I'm all over that for sure.

  11. #11
    Powered by Pulvoron
    Reputation: dirt diggler's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    269
    hey all,
    i have an older sugar w/o disc tabs, the newer treks and Gf now can be upgraded to run disc with a bolt on adapter, i fellow mtber had his older aluminum trek converted to disc by taking the newer disc adapter and his older frame to a machine shop where the milled the drops to have the disc adapter to bolt on. another alternative, can be pricey though.

    i now have a giant nrs2, with disc only and disc is the way to go.

    dirt diggler

  12. #12
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Posts
    4

    Gary Fisher / Avid's

    Help I have got a gary fisher hoo koo e koo I think its probably 1999 -2000 frame. I also have a set of avid mechs to go on (so fed up with the UK mud!). The front is ok as I have a set of bombers on there. How do I fit to the rear, That adapter that Tom posted a picture of looks a good idea, does it just bolt throught the spindle hole, or do I need other holes in the dropout. mark

  13. #13
    mtbr member
    Reputation: itsdoable's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    1,878
    Quote Originally Posted by normski
    Help I have got a gary fisher hoo koo e koo I think its probably 1999 -2000 frame. I also have a set of avid mechs to go on (so fed up with the UK mud!). The front is ok as I have a set of bombers on there. How do I fit to the rear, That adapter that Tom posted a picture of looks a good idea, does it just bolt throught the spindle hole, or do I need other holes in the dropout. mark
    The adapter (sold under various names, mine is an Ameoba/Asama) clamps around the entire dropout. If it fits, you don't need to drill/file/cut anything. However, keep in mind that it will not fit every frame, and some might require modification, and it does look like an ugly bolt-on that doesn't belong. But it works...

    Cheers,

    Tom

  14. #14
    formerly Giantxc
    Reputation: MrXC's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    645
    Tom,

    I just bought the same adaptor (should be in next week) for my SS with horizontal track forks and a bolt on hub. Since you said it works differently with your horizontals, how does it work there with your bolt on? Also is it a royal pain to fix a flat?

    Thanks for any advice

    Mike

    Quote Originally Posted by itsdoable
    Not Duckman - obviously...

    Have had this adapter on a SS frame with horizontal mounts for a few months, and it works surprisingly well dispite the uglyness.



    It will only work on flat plate like dropouts - not breezer style.

    There is no change in dropout width, it is design to fit around a shimano hub. To remove the wheel, you have to extract the QR skewer and the wheel is supose to slide out, provided you can get the thing lined up (obviously this does not work on the horizontal mount).

    The main drawback is that it can slip (rotate) a bit when you do rearward manouvers, and this will scratch up the paint (if your frame is painted...).

    Cheers,

    Tom

  15. #15
    mtbr member
    Reputation: itsdoable's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    1,878
    Quote Originally Posted by MrXC
    I just bought the same adaptor (should be in next week) for my SS with horizontal track forks and a bolt on hub. Since you said it works differently with your horizontals, how does it work there with your bolt on? Also is it a royal pain to fix a flat?
    Hi Mike,

    First make sure the adapter will clear the dropout and seat-stays, and still provide some chain tension adjustment. Then, if you have a solid nutted axle, you will have to drill the outer steel plate as it only has a hole for the QR skewer. Even if your axle is bolt on, the existing hole may be too small. Other than that, I just slide the adapter over the axle (with the axle bolt/nut in place), and slide it into the dropout, tightened everything up making sure the adapter is snug against the seat stay. Ride and make sure the adapter does not rotate under load.

    Flats are not too bad. You have to loosen the 2 axle nuts, then loosen the 4 allen bolts, unhook the brake cable from the frame, then slide the whole thing out of the frame, adapter, caliper and all. If you use cable actualted calipers, unhooking the cables from the top tube cable-guides gives you plenty of slack to remove the wheel without detaching the cable from the caliper bolt. I us a neoprene velcro strap (left over peice of a Lizard Skin chainstay protector) to hold the cable to the seatstay, so it can be easily detachted. I've fixed flats a few times on the trail, slower than a QR wheel, but definitely field servicable.

    Let me/us know how it goes.

    Cheers,

    Tom
    Last edited by itsdoable; 02-12-2004 at 11:21 AM.

  16. #16
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    46
    Quote Originally Posted by itsdoable
    The adapter (sold under various names, mine is an Ameoba/Asama) clamps around the entire dropout. If it fits, you don't need to drill/file/cut anything. However, keep in mind that it will not fit every frame, and some might require modification, and it does look like an ugly bolt-on that doesn't belong. But it works...

    Cheers,

    Tom
    I've been thinking about using one of these adapters for my wife and daughters bicycles.The thing being though,that an aluminum bike without disc tabs is not designed for or stressed for the added forces that can be applied using a disc brake.My LBS owner,whose opinions I value,is reluctant to use them as he's seen chainstay failures on bikes using them.My daughters bike has cromoloy stays so he wasn't too concerned about that bike but my wifes is aluminum and I wouldn't want to compromise the integrity of the frame.My wife and daughter are both XC riders,easy on their equipment,that is to say that they roll stuff rather than huck stuff.I'm not after more braking power,rather more consistent power,especially in the wet climate of coastal BC.More than once my wife has complained of no brakes when it was merely a matter of soaking wet brakes(same thing I guess) She has a front disc,but in the wet,it does give a real imbalance in braking power that results in the real possibility of an unwanted endo.
    Any comments or opinions from you guys who've used them as to any problems you've had or problems that you HAVEN'T had.Info would be much appreciated.
    Dave

  17. #17
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Schtoojp's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Posts
    402
    I have a Trek 4900 without disc tabs and it's alloy but it does have a Trek supplied adapter, does that count?

    Anyway, not as rigid as a fixed mount, it tends to 'rock' a little front to rear, not really a problem but it definitely means it's not as rigid as a real mount. The mount bolts into the rear dropout, so it's it's not stressing the stays like an add-on mount that attatches to the stays, which is something. I have some flex in the dropout not that wasn't there originally, when the bike is unloaded the thing is 'normal', but when you load it up, the stays splay outward. Not sure why it's doing this, but it is doing it (about 1mm at the caliper) and it might be because the extra stress on the dropout from the brake mount. I'll check my wife's bike, same frame. Maybe it was alwasy like that and I never really noticed it till a few months ago.

    Overall, having disc brakes and the small problems or having V-brakes and none of these concerns, I'm happy I went with the discs.

    If stressing the stays is a concern, an old school adapter that runs a linkage to the canti boss might be an option. Puts the load on the dropout and the canti boss rather than directly on the stay. Not sure what they cost, but they were not exactly cheap IIRC.

  18. #18
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    46
    Quote Originally Posted by Schtoojp
    I have a Trek 4900 without disc tabs and it's alloy but it does have a Trek supplied adapter, does that count?

    Anyway, not as rigid as a fixed mount, it tends to 'rock' a little front to rear, not really a problem but it definitely means it's not as rigid as a real mount. The mount bolts into the rear dropout, so it's it's not stressing the stays like an add-on mount that attatches to the stays, which is something. I have some flex in the dropout not that wasn't there originally, when the bike is unloaded the thing is 'normal', but when you load it up, the stays splay outward. Not sure why it's doing this, but it is doing it (about 1mm at the caliper) and it might be because the extra stress on the dropout from the brake mount. I'll check my wife's bike, same frame. Maybe it was alwasy like that and I never really noticed it till a few months ago.

    Overall, having disc brakes and the small problems or having V-brakes and none of these concerns, I'm happy I went with the discs.

    If stressing the stays is a concern, an old school adapter that runs a linkage to the canti boss might be an option. Puts the load on the dropout and the canti boss rather than directly on the stay. Not sure what they cost, but they were not exactly cheap IIRC.
    Thanks for your reply.I've thought about the brake adapter that attatches to the canti boss however,in the case of the Brake Therapy adapter,it's more expensive here in Canada than a whole new frame designed for disc brakes would cost.Looking at pics though,I'm wondering why a guy couldn't incorporate his own brace from an adapter up to the canti boss.It would seem simple enough.
    Dave

  19. #19
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    5,781
    I'm using a "ghetto" copy of a brake therapy adapter on my playbike (GT Cromo frame), sorry I don't have a picture yet, but it's totally solid and has no play if I rock the bike. It's not that hard to build the pushrod to the brake boss using two cheap rod ends (from race car/parts store etc), the challenge is setting up the caliper bracket that goes on the hub, mine currently is threaded onto the axle in place of the locknut, and it's a royal pain to remove the wheel (have to unbolt the caliper and pushrod, so I may try some time and see if I can modify it to make it easier to remove. The BT adapter fits over a special slotted hub spacer and locks in place with a cotter pin. Here's another version of the same thing http://tandem-fahren.de/Mitglieder/C...iskAdapter.htm in case that gives you some ideas.
    Last edited by fsrxc; 05-05-2004 at 12:58 PM.

  20. #20
    Code Burr
    Reputation: thebronze's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    1,376
    Quote Originally Posted by Dirteye
    I have a brand new 1999 KHS FXT sport that I got on clearance for a great price. I tore the frame down and am all ready to weld Disc brake tabs on the rear triangle. Does any one have any suggestions before I actually break out the Tig welder and Void the frame warranty. Thanks!

    Dirteye, be really carefull with that tig, the tubing on steel bikes is super thin and
    you can burn through real easy.
    I got the same issue w my brodie catalyst.
    I'm gonna just braze the tab on my frame with brass and a prop torch since
    I have no tig welder....
    You can find the disc boss at ceeway.com, $3.
    Aligning the boss is another story, been told henry james has an alignment tool and even though I detest buying one time use tools I might grab it if things dont work out as planned.
    Should be an easy sell on ebay after i'm done.....
    You might want to add a support brace to go between the seat and chain stays, its just a 4" rod of whatever tubing you can get. Dont waste your time with what they have at home depot, its way too thick, get some from ceeway.
    The mitering is actually the most time consuming part.
    A hole saw and a drill press would be nice.....otherwise maybe you can dremel or file it...
    I'll post some pics when I get done...

  21. #21
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Schtoojp's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Posts
    402

    Mitering? Check here.

    Damon Rinard's site.

    I think there should still be a link or file on this link that has a programe you can use for mitering.

    You punch in the tube sizes, the angle and print out a piece of paper that has the profile of the miter which you wrap around the tube and file to fit.

    Not as nice as a tube notcher, but it's a free download and it does a pretty nice job too if you are patient.

  22. #22
    Code Burr
    Reputation: thebronze's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    1,376
    Well I'm struggling through the disc boss add on right now.
    I can tell you getting the miters right is one hell of a pain in the ass, esp.
    if you have bends in your seat stays, its like 1 45d angle and 1 23d angle.

    so far-
    support brace tube $6
    boss and cable guide $9
    torch $20
    rod/solder/flux $10
    dremel $40
    sandpaper, emory $10
    wire brushes $7
    files $7
    paint, primer $15

    oh yeah,
    another avid mech $75
    another brake cable $5

  23. #23
    Code Burr
    Reputation: thebronze's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    1,376
    i'm halfway there now

Similar Threads

  1. Racer X Disc Brake Mount
    By XC_Miles in forum Titus
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 02-02-2004, 09:38 AM
  2. Need disc brake adapter 74mm to 51mm
    By DIYguy in forum Brake Time
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 01-26-2004, 09:15 AM
  3. fuel 90 wsd disc brake adaptors
    By maynard in forum Brake Time
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 01-19-2004, 01:27 AM
  4. Need disc brake adapter for manitou 74mm to 51mm
    By DIYguy in forum Shocks and Suspension
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 01-18-2004, 07:05 PM
  5. Disc Brake FAQ
    By gregg in forum Brake Time
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 01-13-2004, 11:03 AM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •