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  1. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by big_papa_nuts View Post
    Ogre will only accept a 160mm rotor out back.
    Yep you are right, thanks for pointing that out - I had forgotten the calliper was inside the triangle unlike my KM - haven't fully decided on the frame yet.

    bsieb - butyl rubber normal operating temperature range is up to 250'F higher for short periods. That's enough to sizzle flesh - off the top of my head thats a potential increase in pressure of something like 25~30% as the tire heats up. If tires are inflated to the max I would imagine overpressure is more of a concern than temperature in the context of a blowout.

  2. #27
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    Which would be better? 160/160 rotors, or long armed cantilever brakes? I am looking at the soma saga series.

  3. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by lighty View Post
    Which would be better? 160/160 rotors, or long armed cantilever brakes? I am looking at the soma saga series.
    Bit of a thread revival but to answer your question:

    My opinion is that disc brakes almost always out perform rim brakes so for me given the choice it's always disc
    Why?
    -better control (modulation is the correct term)
    -better reliability
    -with hydraulics they auto adjust most of the time
    -no rim wear (I regularly used to trash rims by wearing out the brake track before switching to discs on most of my bikes)
    -better wet weather performance

    Just reading through the thread something that no one has mentioned is to check what maximum size rotor on both forks and frame. Bigger rotors generate huge forces that need to be engineered into designs.

    As to what size IMHO bigger is invariably better
    Why?
    -less effort required to generate the same braking force. This means less hand fatigue on long difficult descents plus better modulation (control of braking force)

    Approx 70% of stopping force in braking comes from the front wheel so it makes sense to make the front disc bigger. Just have a look at any motorbike to see how they spec it.

    180 front and 160 back is always a good option on any bike. 203 front makes a worthwhile difference if the fork will take it. Bigger rotors are heavier (but not a lot) and more prone to slight buckles

    I run 203/160 on my moonlander, 180/160 on my commuter and 203/160 on my mountain bike. Where possible I run ice tech rotors to help with cooling.

    I'm just looking to build up a bikepacking Mtb and that will have 180/160 because the fork I'm speccing is rated to 180mm max (x-fusion streat)

  4. #29
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    I love the BB7. durable. Dependable.
    As for rotors, keep them the same. In the event of a crash, let's say that you bend one. If you have a spare, you can swap it out easily enough. If you bend both, you can pull them both and use the spare on the wheel that you need the most.
    I am under 200 with a bike weight running 50 to 60 loaded. I use 160s.
    Help chart the mountains at www.appalachianbiketrails.org

  5. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by bakerjw View Post
    I love the BB7. durable. Dependable.
    As for rotors, keep them the same. In the event of a crash, let's say that you bend one. If you have a spare, you can swap it out easily enough. If you bend both, you can pull them both and use the spare on the wheel that you need the most.
    I am under 200 with a bike weight running 50 to 60 loaded. I use 160s.
    This. I keep my rotors the same font and rear because, in the event that I injured a rotor, I can make sure that I have a front brake. That said, having done half of a cyclocross race with only a front brake (flatted, and neutral support's rims were narrower than mine), I can't say I would be thrilled with it, but it would certainly be better than only a rear brake.

    Typed on my phone. Pardon the autocorrect.

  6. #31
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    ^Just to keep things real, you can also adjust the caliper, or swap the caliper bracket/adapters, if necessary, to move either rotor to the other wheel.

    Carrying a spare is a slippery slope...
    I ride with the best people.




  7. #32
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    I don't carry a spare rotor. Good point on the brackets, though you need to make sure they do indeed interchange since some do not. I would imagine that most bikes have enough play in the housing/cable length that you could adjust to a slightly longer run. As far as adjusting the calipers, there is a functional limit to where you still have brakes. I don't know that I would be able to true a significantly bent rotor within that tolerance using multi tool pliers, but I really don't know since I haven't tried.

    Fwiw, I am in the East, so my need for a larger rotor is less than some of you may experience. That said, I like to maximize system resilience to damage, and equal sized rotors is an easy way to do that in my situation.

    Typed on my phone. Pardon the autocorrect.

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