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  1. #1
    Just ride
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    New question here. Typical bike shop cost to assemble new bike??

    I found a screaming good deal on a BMC Fourstroke 03 frame that I couldn't pass up last week. I currently ride a Woodstock 505 hardtail with a new Magura Laurin 130 fork.

    Bottom line - buying a new full suspension bike piece by piece is the only way to slide the purchases by my wife!! I plan to buy all new SRAM X9 components, wheelset, crank, brakes, etc - essentially everything new but the saddle, tires, and handlebar!!

    Anyone have an idea what it will cost to have a bike shop assemble the whole bike?? I could probably do some myself, but am paranoid about messing something up.

    thanks - DH

  2. #2
    Single(Pivot)and Happy
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    Are you buying all of these parts through your LBS or do you plan on bringing in a frame and a crate of parts purchased from everywhere but your LBS and ask them to assemble your bike for you?
    The suspension of your bike sucks if it's different than mine. Really. It sucks. Big time.

  3. #3
    Just ride
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    I figure I'll be spending around $1000 for all my parts. Obviously the LBS wants to make a bit of cheese on the components, so I was thinking about maybe buying around $500 of parts from LBS, other half from outside. I guess it all depends on what they might give me for a package deal - components + install.

  4. #4
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    i did everything but the crank and adjusting the deraillers......shop changed me $65

    really you can do most of it yourself

  5. #5
    Just ride
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    Thanks - Is there much to swapping the front fork??

    I think I'm technical enough to figure most components out, but I'm worried about not having the necessary tools to do the installs properly.

    I guess it would give my b-in-law something to do this winter.....

  6. #6
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    $150 if you purchase either frame or kit from us.
    $200 if you purchase neither from us.

    If you sort of half-assed slap everything on, and need a final run-through or check-over, $55 or $90 depending upon the amount of work.

  7. #7
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    putting a bike together isnt hard........i made the press for the headset out of all thread and 2 washers......and $8 plumbers pipe cutter for the fork.

    i couldnt install the crank because the threads needed to be cleaned up from paint.

    i think the only other tools i used where 3 allen wrenchs.

  8. #8
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    Unless the headtube on your old bike is exactly the same as your new frame you may not be able to use your old fork.. That being said you need the following tools to do it your self. http://www.pricepoint.com/detail/145...--21-Tools.htm http://www.pricepoint.com/detail.htm...8&hprice=16.98. Use a hacksaw to cut the steerer tube if needed. You can use a wood block and hammer to install the headset cups. If you happen to get a hollowtech II Crankset you will also need this http://www.pricepoint.com/detail.htm...8&hprice=14.98

  9. #9
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    you should own a BB tool, casette tool and a chain whip anyway. The only thing you should need the LMS to do is a final run through on the FD/RD. Learn to do the rest of the work yourself. Many how-to videos on the web.

  10. #10
    Just ride
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    Thanks for all the good advice. With a little more research, I think I'll be prepared enough to tackle quite a few of the components!!

    Vtolds' response regarding the headtube has me a bit concerned though.

    To measure compatibility, is it much more complex than just comparing headtube length on each frame??

    If I'm over simplifying, is there another way to measure without taking my current bike's headset apart??

  11. #11
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    Just take out a ruler and measure your current head tube length. If it is longer or the same as the frame you want than you should be fine. If the head tube is shorter than chances are the steerer tube will be too short on the fork. Unless your have some shims on the current setup that can be removed to make up the difference.

  12. #12
    Just ride
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    Bonking ... not feelin' well

    Well, it's official, I've just moved from the novice to idiot category. I'm frankly sick right now.

    After Vtolds' warning about steerer tube, I freaked out and decided to inventigate.

    The verdict?? Not good......feel free to start laughing.

    Bottom line - my new frame has a 125mm headtube and old is just 105mm. I have a spacer, but its only 5mm, so that still leaves me with 15mm to make up. I my fork off and it looks like the steerer tube is only around 162mm. That only leaves me around 37mm to work with,

    I even took my fork off my old frame to see just our short I am. I currently have a Truvativ XR stem and it looks like the top of the steerer tube is just above the midpoint of the middle-placed locking bolt - not good.

    My stem is 37mm high. I saw on a website that FSA makes one less then 37mm. I need to research the FSA OS-115 stem. It appears shortmer. Any ideas on a shorter height stem??

    The top headset piece is 12mm high. I don't think there is much I can do there.

    Wow, if only I had my LBS put in another 10mm of spacers. I think I'd be ok then.

    At this point, I think I'm going to take the frame to my LBS that installed my fork and see what their thoughts are.

    Well, if it won't work, I'm going to sell the new frame. I can't afford another Laurin fork right now so I may as well try to break even on the frame. What an idiot........

  13. #13
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    If you buy nothing through us a build typically ends up around $200-$250, included in that is sizing up your stack height seat position ect, and we will tune your gears for you until they stop stretching.

    If you have bought a frame, or buildkit with us then the cost is typically $100-$150, if youve bought both its free (and if you buy both we also give you six months free servicing).

    And ofcourse your guaranteed all the components will be fitted properly, cut to appropriate length allowing for growth ect ect. - MI4stroke you could have the fork's steerer tube replaced by the manufacturer

  14. #14
    JmZ
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    It has happened to quite a few people, not just you.

    If you are close, you may be able to do a few things..
    Make sure the headset surfaces are faced and reamed by the shop.
    Find a low profile stem.
    Find a low stack height headset.
    Remove all spacers.

    This will only work if you're pretty close, if not... I'd do one of two things - 1) I'd consider selling the FORK, and replace that instead of the frame. or 2) I'd contact Magura to see if they can replace the steer tube, or steerer tube assembly for a fraction of the cost of a new fork.

    You can still get a placeholder fork too. Something to ride until you can get a good fork again. (Heck even Fox Floats were/are? being cleared out for the $350 mark - I picked up one w/140mm travel for just under that amount, new in box off of E-Bay early this year.)

    Good luck,

    JmZ

    Quote Originally Posted by MI4stroke
    Well, it's official, I've just moved from the novice to idiot category. I'm frankly sick right now.

    After Vtolds' warning about steerer tube, I freaked out and decided to inventigate.

    The verdict?? Not good......feel free to start laughing.

    Bottom line - my new frame has a 125mm headtube and old is just 105mm. I have a spacer, but its only 5mm, so that still leaves me with 15mm to make up. I my fork off and it looks like the steerer tube is only around 162mm. That only leaves me around 37mm to work with,

    I even took my fork off my old frame to see just our short I am. I currently have a Truvativ XR stem and it looks like the top of the steerer tube is just above the midpoint of the middle-placed locking bolt - not good.

    My stem is 37mm high. I saw on a website that FSA makes one less then 37mm. I need to research the FSA OS-115 stem. It appears shortmer. Any ideas on a shorter height stem??

    The top headset piece is 12mm high. I don't think there is much I can do there.

    Wow, if only I had my LBS put in another 10mm of spacers. I think I'd be ok then.

    At this point, I think I'm going to take the frame to my LBS that installed my fork and see what their thoughts are.

    Well, if it won't work, I'm going to sell the new frame. I can't afford another Laurin fork right now so I may as well try to break even on the frame. What an idiot........
    JmZ

    From one flat land to another.

    Advocate as if your ride depends on it...

  15. #15
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    What year BMC (new/used) and how much would you sell it if you where to sell it? Not that I'm interested, just askin'.

  16. #16
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    new frame new fork .......thats kinda the way i look at it.

  17. #17
    Just ride
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    Wow, I've never seen a "sweater vest" fan so helpful!! Maybe Buckeyes do have a heart....

    I called Magura direct about replacing the steerer tube and uppers - $360 with shipping!! I only paid $365 on Ebay for the fork new. He then proceeded to attempt to sell me a new fork for $343.

    I found a downhill/BMX style stem that has a stack height of only 30mm. This is where I currently stand:

    20mm longer headtube
    -5mm spacer removed
    -7mm shorter stem (30mm vs. 37mm)
    ------------------------
    8mm short. This is about 4mm more than what seems to be acceptible.

    Bottom lin - around 22mm of a 30mm double bolt stem having contact with the steerer tube.

    I'm not a hardcore rider, but I'm a little nervous about going this route. Anyone think this is a very bad idea??

  18. #18
    Just ride
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    The frame is a brand new '08 model Fourstroke 03 that I paid $660 for. Still in the bubble wrap. Considering it looks like the frame once retailed for well over $1100, I'm starting to have second thoughts about selling it.

  19. #19
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    8mm isn't bad for a gap, but 22mm insertion isn't much.
    Is it possible to swap your headset for a lower height one?

    I've seen a bike which was hit by a car when he had just over half the stem height in contact with the steerer. It lunched the (rigid) forks and wheel, but the stem didn't move. It surprised me too.

    I'm really surprised at the prices to build a bike. What is the hourly charge rate for a shop mechanic? Assembling a bike isn't a five hour job unless you're building both wheels and taking your time about it.
    Owner of www.shockcraft.co.nz and NZ Manitou Service Agent.
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  20. #20
    Just ride
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    The bike already uses a zero stack headset. The top piece, right below the stem, is only 13mm thick. I think I could machine down this 13mm piece, but I'm a little nervous about compromising it.

    I can't really think of many more places to pull mm from to get more steerer contact. If only I had just another 5mm of steerer........

  21. #21
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    sell the fork and buy one that fits.. chances are you dont want to run your stem dumped ontop of the headset anyway.

    sucks, as you do have a good fork.. but you're kind of out of realistic options. maybe buy a new upper assembly for your fork.

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dougal
    What is the hourly charge rate for a shop mechanic?
    labor rates are figured on a $60/hr scale for us.

  23. #23
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    you can always get a stem riser/extension, might be called something else. you can use it to bypass the spacers and get your bars up to where you need them. OR, sell your used fork and buy another used fork.

  24. #24
    Just ride
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    My BMC frame came with a FSA ZS-3 headset with a stack height of 13mm also. I've seen a few advertised at 10mm. It appears the integrated headset that a BMC accepts is rather specialized, but I am confident I can find one shorter that will get me at least another 3mm. From 8mm down to around 5mm off - I think I'm about there!!

    I contemplated buying a new fork, but a new Magura Laurin is at least $600+ now - a far cry from the $365 I paid on Ebay!! I might still look at selling my Laurin and buying a Durin. I figure I bought my fork cheap enough that I won't loose my shorts trying to unload it - hopefully........

  25. #25
    mtbr member
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    Quote Originally Posted by -dustin
    labor rates are figured on a $60/hr scale for us.
    That's what I figured. The numbers quoted in this thread indicated 3-4 hours to build up a bike. That's pretty steep. Unless you're building both wheels and bleeding the brakes. Which usually doesn't need done.

    Yes I've done my time as a bike mechanic.
    Owner of www.shockcraft.co.nz and NZ Manitou Service Agent.
    www.dougal.co.nz Suspension setup & tuning.
    SPV Devolve

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