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  1. #1
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    Most durable paint?

    Ok, I am painting my fork lowers and possibly my frame. I am going flat black with matte clear coating. Assuming I do good prep work (cleaning, sanding, cleaning, priming, sanding, cleaning, priming again, etc.), what do you guys think would be the most durable paint I can find? Not worried about looks, as I want flat black anyways. Here are my ideas:

    High temp BBQ grill paint (my top choice)
    High temp engine paint
    Flat black car enamel

    ..or any other ideas anyone may have. Thanks!

  2. #2
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    Ideally you would get them powdercoated. But if you really want to spray paint them, you need to use high quality spray paint. Most spray paints (like the ones you listed) are not durable enough for a bike. They will look great for a couple of months, but UV exposure and chipping will have them looking pretty bad after a while. The best paints to use, that won't cost you too much, are VHT epoxy enamel and then coat it with spray max 2k urethane clear. The spray max is a professional 2 part urethane that is the best, most durable clear coat you can get from a spray can. But you will NEED to get a decent painters mask from Home Depot or somewhere else to use it, because it is nasty stuff (it contains isocyanates) and can seriously mess you up if you breathe too much of it. The spray max is a high gloss clear, so you will need to buff it out with rubbing compound if you are looking for a matte finish. The Spray Max can must be activated and can only be used for about 24 hours after you activate it. Also keep in mind that you cannot use the VHT epoxy paint without a clear coat because while epoxies are super strong, they have no UV protection. If you are going to strip all the paint off, you will need to use an epoxy primer, because aluminum and magensium parts do not hold paint well. But if you just scuff up the existing paint you won't need a primer.

    http://www.vhtpaint.com/epoxypaint.html

    http://www.eastwood.com/spray-max-2k...t-aerosol.html
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  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by ljsmith View Post
    Ideally you would get them powdercoated. But if you really want to spray paint them, you need to use high quality spray paint. Most spray paints (like the ones you listed) are not durable enough for a bike. They will look great for a couple of months, but UV exposure and chipping will have them looking pretty bad after a while. The best paints to use, that won't cost you too much, are VHT epoxy enamel and then coat it with spray max 2k urethane clear. The spray max is a professional 2 part urethane that is the best, most durable clear coat you can get from a spray can. But you will NEED to get a decent painters mask from Home Depot or somewhere else to use it, because it is nasty stuff (it contains isocyanates) and can seriously mess you up if you breathe too much of it. The spray max is a high gloss clear, so you will need to buff it out with rubbing compound if you are looking for a matte finish. The Spray Max can must be activated and can only be used for about 24 hours after you activate it. Also keep in mind that you cannot use the VHT epoxy paint without a clear coat because while epoxies are super strong, they have no UV protection. If you are going to strip all the paint off, you will need to use an epoxy primer, because aluminum and magensium parts do not hold paint well. But if you just scuff up the existing paint you won't need a primer.

    http://www.vhtpaint.com/epoxypaint.html

    http://www.eastwood.com/spray-max-2k...t-aerosol.html
    Good info, thanks.. So far I've got it primed, so I'm going to check out that paint you mentioned tomorrow. That clear sounds like good stuff too, I may just go that route as well. Thanks again!

  4. #4
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    If the frame is worth it I highly recommend taking it to a shop that powdercoats. It will cost roughly $100-150 to have the frame chemically stripped and powdercoated. It takes roughly 3 days, saves you a lot of work and it will come out looking great! You also dont have to worry about exposing yourself to any chemicals! If you are determined to do it yourself I have used the high temp engine block paint on my drum brakes. I used a sandblaster to strip the paint/rust and sprayed a few coats per the instructions. I also cooked them in an oven per the instructions. This was 100K miles ago and they still look like new.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by FireLikeIYA View Post
    If the frame is worth it I highly recommend taking it to a shop that powdercoats. It will cost roughly $100-150 to have the frame chemically stripped and powdercoated. It takes roughly 3 days, saves you a lot of work and it will come out looking great! You also dont have to worry about exposing yourself to any chemicals! If you are determined to do it yourself I have used the high temp engine block paint on my drum brakes. I used a sandblaster to strip the paint/rust and sprayed a few coats per the instructions. I also cooked them in an oven per the instructions. This was 100K miles ago and they still look like new.
    If it doesn't work out well I will get it powder coated, as I have a shop here that I've already talked to. It's more of an experiment/something to keep me busy this week. I want to see if I can do it well enough to last. The engine enamel seems like it would have to be pretty durable for what it's used for, I considered that as well..

  6. #6
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    You don't need to prime unless metal is showing or unless you sanded down chips.
    Are you planing on getting rattle cans or are you going to get paint to spray out of a gun?
    The best thing to do is to go to a auto body shop and tell them what you want to paint and they will set you up. I use finish masters don't know if you have one near you but thats my choice.
    If you need more advice PM me I have been painting cars for 6 years now

  7. #7
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    You also need to make sure your primer is compatible with the base coat and top coat you purchase. If the three different coatings are not compatible you will get a reaction. A reaction is when the paint crinkles all over and it is very hard to fix. Also need to get a tack cloth and some wax and grease remover and before you apply your base coat clean real good and tack off the dust. You should also tac again b4 the clear coat. You can get some good single stage satin paints from the auto body shop so you don't need to clear and it wont fade if you want. Typically single stage paints are used on fleet vehicles like county work trucks ext. they don't look as good on a car but a bike you will never see it and its easier and cheaper. You should be able to get a good satin finish out of a rattle can if you like in a single stage. Satin is probably more what you are looking for most matte mtbs are actually satin. Just go to the auto body store and ask.

  8. #8
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    I went with the VHT satin epoxy enamel. I'm doing 5 coats, gonna let it dry overnight, and clear it tomorrow. After that, I'll probably wait a week to reassemble. Sound good so far?

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Boyk1182 View Post
    I went with the VHT satin epoxy enamel. I'm doing 5 coats, gonna let it dry overnight, and clear it tomorrow. After that, I'll probably wait a week to reassemble. Sound good so far?
    My only recommendation is to take pictures and post our progress in this thread.

  10. #10
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    Before..



    During..











    After I'll post in about a week
    Last edited by Boyk1182; 06-07-2011 at 12:21 PM.

  11. #11
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    the pics did not work

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by jpeters View Post
    the pics did not work
    Fixed..

  13. #13
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    I cried a little when I saw your pictures...why did you not take your bike all the way apart? You're gonna need new bearings for your rear pivot and I'm praying you didn't screw up your fork. And get your disc brake mounts, headset, and bottom bracket refaced.

  14. #14
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    Hey bro just want to let you know you will need to be careful when applying the clear for a few reasons.

    1 clear likes to run
    2 clear likes to collect dust

    When you go to clear it try to put a light tack coat first you want it to look all hazy. Wait 10 min and apply a wet coat make sure as soon as it shines up move on. Don't go over the same spot 2 many times or it will run. Make sure as you try to get all of those inside corners you don't inadvertently spray the same spot a bunch of times or it will run. Also it is best to clear within 30 min of the final base coat so it etches together good if possible. If you decide you want to put a few coats wait till the clear is dry b4 recoating so it does not build up and run. If you wait 24hrs to recoat skuff it b4 you clear again with a skuff pad. If it is hot out like 80 or 90 the clear should be dry in 2 hrs. You can recoat without skuffing after 2hrs because the new clear should still etch. Be patient when applying the clear it can be tricky and if you do it wrong you will ruin your paint job. Good luck man and it looks good so far.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by jpeters View Post
    Hey bro just want to let you know you will need to be careful when applying the clear for a few reasons.

    1 clear likes to run
    2 clear likes to collect dust

    When you go to clear it try to put a light tack coat first you want it to look all hazy. Wait 10 min and apply a wet coat make sure as soon as it shines up move on. Don't go over the same spot 2 many times or it will run. Make sure as you try to get all of those inside corners you don't inadvertently spray the same spot a bunch of times or it will run. Also it is best to clear within 30 min of the final base coat so it etches together good if possible. If you decide you want to put a few coats wait till the clear is dry b4 recoating so it does not build up and run. If you wait 24hrs to recoat skuff it b4 you clear again with a skuff pad. If it is hot out like 80 or 90 the clear should be dry in 2 hrs. You can recoat without skuffing after 2hrs because the new clear should still etch. Be patient when applying the clear it can be tricky and if you do it wrong you will ruin your paint job. Good luck man and it looks good so far.
    Thanks for the info. I was debating on how many coats of clear to use. What do you think?

  16. #16
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    With a rattle can 3 or 4

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    Quote Originally Posted by jpeters View Post
    With a rattle can 3 or 4
    Sweet that's what I was thinking.. last question, what do you think of something like this:

    http://www.duplicolor.com/products/wheelCoating/

    ..the guy above suggested the Eastwood stuff, but it's $25 a can, and by the time I get a few cans of that I might have well have just got it powdercoated. I want to keep this cheap, but sturdy of course. Thanks again man

  18. #18
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    if u put it on good it will be ok

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Boyk1182 View Post
    It came out good. The clear coat is a metallic clear, so it looks like it tried to make the satin black metallic, but not quite. Almost looks like an anodized black, but still flat. Can't wait to put it together (in a week or so..)
    #

    more pics please
    if you leave it in the hot sun it will be dry enough in 2 days. Its easy to check let it cool than tap it with the back of your fingers of it feels a little soft let it dry longer.

  20. #20
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    I've had great luck in the past with that duplicolor wheel coating for car wheels. Very durable and doesn't fade.

    Rattle can bed liner is good for a flat black bike too

  21. #21
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    It came out good. The clear coat is a metallic clear, so it looks like it tried to make the satin black metallic, but not quite. Almost looks like an anodized black, but still flat. Can't wait to put it together (in a week or so..)

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by jpeters View Post
    #

    more pics please


    Here it is now, after a day of drying. It looks pretty flat from a few feet away, but up close it's got a strange shine to it (tons of coats of the wheel protector clear coat). I'm pretty happy with it, just hope it holds up well. I think it will (3 coats dark grey primer, 5 coats epoxy enamel, tons of clear coat).

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by jpeters View Post
    Did you paint the bearings? The paint should be fine I am sure it will hold up. Did you skuff the paint good b4 you primed? As long as you did that you will be ok.
    Yea I scuffed up where I could get to and took the original clear coat off, but not down to the aluminum. And yes, I painted the bearings. I don't have tools to get them out, so I figured I'd paint them and see if they still spin (which they do), and if they seize up I'll replace when it happens. They're also impossible to mask without covering part of the paint, so I'm sure I'll end up replacing them sooner or later. I masked up everything else well (head tube, bottom bracket, etc).

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by theextremist04 View Post
    I cried a little when I saw your pictures...why did you not take your bike all the way apart? You're gonna need new bearings for your rear pivot and I'm praying you didn't screw up your fork. And get your disc brake mounts, headset, and bottom bracket refaced.
    It's just spray paint bro..

  25. #25
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    Did you paint the bearings? The paint should be fine I am sure it will hold up. Did you skuff the paint good b4 you primed? As long as you did that you will be ok.

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