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  1. #1
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    Modernizing a 2005 Gary Fisher Cake 4: Need Input

    Would you be able to give me some feedback on the plan--mainly Component Selection? Need LIGHT and not too expensive (XC level for my weight).

    Skills--Haven't built before, but maintain my own bikes and feel comfortable doing the work.

    Reason--Dropping lbs and trying a 1x10 setup.

    Rider--5' 8", 145 ish lbs

    Budget
    --$500 to $800.

    Bike--Solid XC full suspension frame but bottom level components. Wheels and fork already upgraded to Mavric Crosstrails and a Fox 100 mm. Better, but still feels held back by the other parts.

    The Plan (Specs/Prices off Pricepoint at the time I looked (may have changed since).):

    Crank--Sram XX1 32T BB30 2013--$325, 650 g. Optimized for 1x setup with light duty, supposed to be OK for no chain stay. Question-- How do I know if I'm BB30 or something else? (I haven't changed a crank before.)

    Chain--Sram PC 1091 $40, 270 g.

    Cassette--Scram 2012 PG-1070 11-32, $80, 359 g. Considered XG-1070, $280 and 239 g but feel the $200 extra serves better elsewhere.

    Derailleur--Sram X9 10 speed Type 2 SHORT Cage $115

    Shifter--Sram X9 10 speed 2013, $62

    Seat Post--Easton EC 70 Zero, Carbon w/ Aluminum Clamps, 225 g, $60.

    Handlebar--Easton EC 70 XC Riser 2012, 155g, $60. On the bike (med frame) Question--If I feel I'm reaching down too much on the current bars--would risers be a solution?

    Brakes--Has older Avid BB7's (mechanical), would like to swap both for a SINGLE hydraulic on the front. Could you recommend one for me between $100 and $200?

    Saddle, Pedals etc.--Leaving them alone for now.

    Thank you for your help
    Last edited by Agator007; 08-30-2013 at 02:33 PM. Reason: Clarifying the Questions

  2. #2
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    I would really appreciate your feedback.

  3. #3
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    The Cake has a threaded bottom bracket, the BB30 XX1 crankset will not fit. I would advise that you abort this project, and save up for something newer, or ride the Cake into the ground with whatever cheap/used parts make it rideable. Don't invest too much into an obsolete bike.

    Edit: Single front brake!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!???????????????????

  4. #4
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    Thanks for your wisdom. I'll enjoy it as it is.

    Quote Originally Posted by johnlh View Post
    Edit: Single front brake!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!???????????????????
    I've heard of some people doing it.

  5. #5
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    I wouldn't put a ton of money into that bike. IIRC, a lot of the Cake/Sugar frames cracked.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Agator007 View Post
    Would you be able to give me some feedback on the plan--mainly Component Selection? Need LIGHT and not too expensive (XC level for my weight).

    Skills--Haven't built before, but maintain my own bikes and feel comfortable doing the work.

    Reason--Dropping lbs and trying a 1x10 setup.

    Rider--5' 8", 145 ish lbs

    Budget
    --$500 to $800.

    Bike--Solid XC full suspension frame but bottom level components. Wheels and fork already upgraded to Mavric Crosstrails and a Fox 100 mm. Better, but still feels held back by the other parts.

    The Plan (Specs/Prices off Pricepoint at the time I looked (may have changed since).):

    Crank--Sram XX1 32T BB30 2013--$325, 650 g. Optimized for 1x setup with light duty, supposed to be OK for no chain stay. Question-- How do I know if I'm BB30 or something else? (I haven't changed a crank before.)

    Chain--Sram PC 1091 $40, 270 g.

    Cassette--Scram 2012 PG-1070 11-32, $80, 359 g. Considered XG-1070, $280 and 239 g but feel the $200 extra serves better elsewhere.

    Derailleur--Sram X9 10 speed Type 2 SHORT Cage $115

    Shifter--Sram X9 10 speed 2013, $62

    Seat Post--Easton EC 70 Zero, Carbon w/ Aluminum Clamps, 225 g, $60.

    Handlebar--Easton EC 70 XC Riser 2012, 155g, $60. On the bike (med frame) Question--If I feel I'm reaching down too much on the current bars--would risers be a solution?

    Brakes--Has older Avid BB7's (mechanical), would like to swap both for a SINGLE hydraulic on the front. Could you recommend one for me between $100 and $200?

    Saddle, Pedals etc.--Leaving them alone for now.

    Thank you for your help
    The Cake has a 73mm bottom bracket shell, so you'll need to get something that is compatible. If you step down a bit to the XO range you can do that. You can get more bang for your buck by searching e-bay. There is a lot of XO and XX componentry on e-bay of recent vintage. The Avid brakes are quite capable. If you're feeling like they could be better, try a 203mm front rotor. I ran my Avids until just recently with a 203mm rotor up front with no issues. I only replaced them because Price Point was selling the Stroker Trail brakes for $60.00 a wheel. As far as running only one brake, I wouldn't recommend it. . . . . .
    Editor In Chief, "Internet Tough Guy Magazine"
    "Home of Chuck Norris' Keyboard"

  7. #7
    Interplanetary Poultry
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    Quote Originally Posted by Berkley View Post
    I wouldn't put a ton of money into that bike. IIRC, a lot of the Cake/Sugar frames cracked.
    I don't know, I'm still rockin my Sugar 293 that I bought in 04. It's got a lot of miles on it, including plenty of downhill and some dirt jumping. Of course, it is a Trek product. . . . . . . . .
    Editor In Chief, "Internet Tough Guy Magazine"
    "Home of Chuck Norris' Keyboard"

  8. #8
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    That 32t crank is a bit small, I'd go with 36t or 40t!
    Observe, report.

  9. #9
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    Instead of XX1 crank, you could just use an XO or similar with a dedicated chainring (like the Raceface single narrow/wide) and a lightweight chainguide like an E13 XCX or similar. Doesn't add much weight at all. Also, quite a few people can and have run Type 2 (or Shadow+ for shimano set-ups) derailleurs without chainguides and have had minimal issues.
    Rest of the build looks pretty good, although, like most others here, don't try the single front brake thing.
    I don't crash, I just have slightly uncontrolled dismounts!

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by pdxmark View Post
    That 32t crank is a bit small, I'd go with 36t or 40t!
    Where do you ride, that anything bigger than a 36t is suitable for single ring mountain biking?

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by johnlh View Post
    Where do you ride, that anything bigger than a 36t is suitable for single ring mountain biking?
    Where ever it is, there can't be many hills around!
    I don't crash, I just have slightly uncontrolled dismounts!

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kiwiplague View Post
    Where ever it is, there can't be many hills around!
    I live in Portland, and I utilize all my gears. There are trails on the hills, flatland w/ concrete and dirt trails and things to jump. I generally use 2 and 3 in the low land, but when I hit Forest Park--like I did today, had to get in one downhill before work at 5pm PST--there are lots of steep climps, 1 comes in very handy. Actually, I used 1-1~2 today when hitting the climbs coming down Firelane 1 up on FP!

    I really need a full suspension MTB for some of the descents in that park.
    Observe, report.

  13. #13
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    I don't doubt you do, but for the vast majority of riders are likely to find a 36 or 40 tooth chainring to be almost impossible to ride up most hills (unless you are super fit). Most people I seen running single ring set-ups run 32-34 teeth, as these are more versatile and give acceptable up hill ability.
    I don't crash, I just have slightly uncontrolled dismounts!

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