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  1. #1
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    Modernizing a 2005 Gary Fisher Cake 4: Need Input

    Would you be able to give me some feedback on the plan--mainly Component Selection? Need LIGHT and not too expensive (XC level for my weight).

    Skills--Haven't built before, but maintain my own bikes and feel comfortable doing the work.

    Reason--Dropping lbs and trying a 1x10 setup.

    Rider--5' 8", 145 ish lbs

    Budget
    --$500 to $800.

    Bike--Solid XC full suspension frame but bottom level components. Wheels and fork already upgraded to Mavric Crosstrails and a Fox 100 mm. Better, but still feels held back by the other parts.

    The Plan (Specs/Prices off Pricepoint at the time I looked (may have changed since).):

    Crank--Sram XX1 32T BB30 2013--$325, 650 g. Optimized for 1x setup with light duty, supposed to be OK for no chain stay. Question-- How do I know if I'm BB30 or something else? (I haven't changed a crank before.)

    Chain--Sram PC 1091 $40, 270 g.

    Cassette--Scram 2012 PG-1070 11-32, $80, 359 g. Considered XG-1070, $280 and 239 g but feel the $200 extra serves better elsewhere.

    Derailleur--Sram X9 10 speed Type 2 SHORT Cage $115

    Shifter--Sram X9 10 speed 2013, $62

    Seat Post--Easton EC 70 Zero, Carbon w/ Aluminum Clamps, 225 g, $60.

    Handlebar--Easton EC 70 XC Riser 2012, 155g, $60. On the bike (med frame) Question--If I feel I'm reaching down too much on the current bars--would risers be a solution?

    Brakes--Has older Avid BB7's (mechanical), would like to swap both for a SINGLE hydraulic on the front. Could you recommend one for me between $100 and $200?

    Saddle, Pedals etc.--Leaving them alone for now.

    Thank you for your help
    Last edited by Agator007; 08-30-2013 at 02:33 PM. Reason: Clarifying the Questions

  2. #2
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    I would really appreciate your feedback.

  3. #3
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    The Cake has a threaded bottom bracket, the BB30 XX1 crankset will not fit. I would advise that you abort this project, and save up for something newer, or ride the Cake into the ground with whatever cheap/used parts make it rideable. Don't invest too much into an obsolete bike.

    Edit: Single front brake!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!???????????????????

  4. #4
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    Thanks for your wisdom. I'll enjoy it as it is.

    Quote Originally Posted by johnlh View Post
    Edit: Single front brake!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!???????????????????
    I've heard of some people doing it.

  5. #5
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    I wouldn't put a ton of money into that bike. IIRC, a lot of the Cake/Sugar frames cracked.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Agator007 View Post
    Would you be able to give me some feedback on the plan--mainly Component Selection? Need LIGHT and not too expensive (XC level for my weight).

    Skills--Haven't built before, but maintain my own bikes and feel comfortable doing the work.

    Reason--Dropping lbs and trying a 1x10 setup.

    Rider--5' 8", 145 ish lbs

    Budget
    --$500 to $800.

    Bike--Solid XC full suspension frame but bottom level components. Wheels and fork already upgraded to Mavric Crosstrails and a Fox 100 mm. Better, but still feels held back by the other parts.

    The Plan (Specs/Prices off Pricepoint at the time I looked (may have changed since).):

    Crank--Sram XX1 32T BB30 2013--$325, 650 g. Optimized for 1x setup with light duty, supposed to be OK for no chain stay. Question-- How do I know if I'm BB30 or something else? (I haven't changed a crank before.)

    Chain--Sram PC 1091 $40, 270 g.

    Cassette--Scram 2012 PG-1070 11-32, $80, 359 g. Considered XG-1070, $280 and 239 g but feel the $200 extra serves better elsewhere.

    Derailleur--Sram X9 10 speed Type 2 SHORT Cage $115

    Shifter--Sram X9 10 speed 2013, $62

    Seat Post--Easton EC 70 Zero, Carbon w/ Aluminum Clamps, 225 g, $60.

    Handlebar--Easton EC 70 XC Riser 2012, 155g, $60. On the bike (med frame) Question--If I feel I'm reaching down too much on the current bars--would risers be a solution?

    Brakes--Has older Avid BB7's (mechanical), would like to swap both for a SINGLE hydraulic on the front. Could you recommend one for me between $100 and $200?

    Saddle, Pedals etc.--Leaving them alone for now.

    Thank you for your help
    The Cake has a 73mm bottom bracket shell, so you'll need to get something that is compatible. If you step down a bit to the XO range you can do that. You can get more bang for your buck by searching e-bay. There is a lot of XO and XX componentry on e-bay of recent vintage. The Avid brakes are quite capable. If you're feeling like they could be better, try a 203mm front rotor. I ran my Avids until just recently with a 203mm rotor up front with no issues. I only replaced them because Price Point was selling the Stroker Trail brakes for $60.00 a wheel. As far as running only one brake, I wouldn't recommend it. . . . . .
    Editor In Chief, "Internet Tough Guy Magazine"
    "Home of Chuck Norris' Keyboard"

  7. #7
    Interplanetary Poultry
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    Quote Originally Posted by Berkley View Post
    I wouldn't put a ton of money into that bike. IIRC, a lot of the Cake/Sugar frames cracked.
    I don't know, I'm still rockin my Sugar 293 that I bought in 04. It's got a lot of miles on it, including plenty of downhill and some dirt jumping. Of course, it is a Trek product. . . . . . . . .
    Editor In Chief, "Internet Tough Guy Magazine"
    "Home of Chuck Norris' Keyboard"

  8. #8
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    That 32t crank is a bit small, I'd go with 36t or 40t!
    Goodbye '95 ZJ. Just so you know, transfering box of left behind womens panties to next truck. Thank you ZJ!

  9. #9
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    Instead of XX1 crank, you could just use an XO or similar with a dedicated chainring (like the Raceface single narrow/wide) and a lightweight chainguide like an E13 XCX or similar. Doesn't add much weight at all. Also, quite a few people can and have run Type 2 (or Shadow+ for shimano set-ups) derailleurs without chainguides and have had minimal issues.
    Rest of the build looks pretty good, although, like most others here, don't try the single front brake thing.
    I don't crash, I just have slightly uncontrolled dismounts!

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by pdxmark View Post
    That 32t crank is a bit small, I'd go with 36t or 40t!
    Where do you ride, that anything bigger than a 36t is suitable for single ring mountain biking?

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by johnlh View Post
    Where do you ride, that anything bigger than a 36t is suitable for single ring mountain biking?
    Where ever it is, there can't be many hills around!
    I don't crash, I just have slightly uncontrolled dismounts!

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kiwiplague View Post
    Where ever it is, there can't be many hills around!
    I live in Portland, and I utilize all my gears. There are trails on the hills, flatland w/ concrete and dirt trails and things to jump. I generally use 2 and 3 in the low land, but when I hit Forest Park--like I did today, had to get in one downhill before work at 5pm PST--there are lots of steep climps, 1 comes in very handy. Actually, I used 1-1~2 today when hitting the climbs coming down Firelane 1 up on FP!

    I really need a full suspension MTB for some of the descents in that park.
    Goodbye '95 ZJ. Just so you know, transfering box of left behind womens panties to next truck. Thank you ZJ!

  13. #13
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    I don't doubt you do, but for the vast majority of riders are likely to find a 36 or 40 tooth chainring to be almost impossible to ride up most hills (unless you are super fit). Most people I seen running single ring set-ups run 32-34 teeth, as these are more versatile and give acceptable up hill ability.
    I don't crash, I just have slightly uncontrolled dismounts!

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