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  1. #201
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    If you have a healthy polisher you can get away with stopping at 1000grit on easier to reach spots. I have this http://www.harborfreight.com/garage-...fer-40668.html And with some good compound it'll take paper marks out pretty quick.
    I wouldn't shoot for mirror finish if you plan on getting it dirty, even wiping dust off the frame will dull the finish.

  2. #202
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    Hey, so I'm a complete newb to this field of information and have some questions that highly reflect my knowledge of the matter. So, I pulled out an old Specialized Hardrock Sport, and I mean an old one. It's a tad smaller than I'd like, but this bike is going to Burning Man and so long as it is functional, I'll take it. It will remain rather squalid in comparison to much of the metal work there, but I'd like to touch it up all the same. It's a Chromoly frame and I have heard it is possible to polish it nicely. Anyone have a guide handy?

  3. #203
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    Quote Originally Posted by Eville140 View Post
    If you have a healthy polisher you can get away with stopping at 1000grit on easier to reach spots. I have this 8" Benchtop Buffer And with some good compound it'll take paper marks out pretty quick.
    I wouldn't shoot for mirror finish if you plan on getting it dirty, even wiping dust off the frame will dull the finish.
    10-4 on that. I stopped at 1200 grit wet, then automotive rubbing compound, then polishing compound, then, of course, Mothers.

    ehigh - I have no experience with steel in this context. I ended up painting the rigid chrom/moly steel fork with Duplicolor chrome at 800 grit. Work OK but will try something different in a couple of months. Did not clear coat the aluminum (and have no intention to do so) but would need to do something like that with steel.

  4. #204
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    Yeah I had read mention of it on a different forum, but there were not any definitive answers.

  5. #205
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    Quote Originally Posted by ehigh View Post
    Yeah I had read mention of it on a different forum, but there were not any definitive answers.
    If it's going to Burning Man, you might consider some neon spray paint & flower stickers. Maybe for the bike too. Then figure out the best method of polishing/coating afterward. Also, be sure to take a gross of prophylactics with you! What a party that event is...

    I'm a gun guy, so I'm thinking of blueing the fork. That would look good in contrast to a polished frame. Probably not practical for a complete frame.

  6. #206
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    Quote Originally Posted by Eville140 View Post
    If you have a healthy polisher you can get away with stopping at 1000grit on easier to reach spots. I have this 8" Benchtop Buffer And with some good compound it'll take paper marks out pretty quick.
    I wouldn't shoot for mirror finish if you plan on getting it dirty, even wiping dust off the frame will dull the finish.
    No doubt there are a number of ways to get to the final product. I found that knowing when enough, was enough, was my biggest problem. 2000 grit is serious dedication. And some of it depends on if you have a 6061 or 7075 alloy frame, as far as brush marks & crash ding penetrations are concerned. I like the brushed look but wonder if those events make that inevitability more visible?

    Do you mind a brush marked 4X4, or do you want a perpetually polished Porsche? We all have different expectations, I think, and need to proceed based on those considerations. Whatever the choice, RAW bike frames are unique & a personalized statement.of dedication
    Last edited by Desertguns; 01-23-2012 at 06:51 PM.

  7. #207
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    Quote Originally Posted by Desertguns View Post
    If it's going to Burning Man, you might consider some neon spray paint & flower stickers. Maybe for the bike too. Then figure out the best method of polishing/coating afterward. Also, be sure to take a gross of prophylactics with you! What a party that event is...

    I'm a gun guy, so I'm thinking of blueing the fork. That would look good in contrast to a polished frame. Probably not practical for a complete frame.
    It may end up getting some paint on it once it is there, but I think I can get it shiny. I found this old thread
    BMXmuseum.com Forums / POLISHED, NOT PLATED!

    Sounds like a lot of work, and I might not get it that clean looking. I still think I'll give it a shot though.

    And I definitely plan on being prepared, regardless of how dazed I may end up becoming.

  8. #208
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    Quote Originally Posted by ehigh View Post
    It may end up getting some paint on it once it is there, but I think I can get it shiny. I found this old thread
    BMXmuseum.com Forums / POLISHED, NOT PLATED!

    Sounds like a lot of work, and I might not get it that clean looking. I still think I'll give it a shot though.

    And I definitely plan on being prepared, regardless of how dazed I may end up becoming.
    Great link! Amazing photos & saw the process as I scrolled down. Again, that is dedication. BTW - At Burning Man, if you have 2.4" tires of wider, mount them, & run at 35psi or so. Hardpack turns to silt dirt/sand in a few feet. Well, it did when I was there - '92, 96, '02, etc

  9. #209
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    Quote Originally Posted by craigstr View Post
    I didnt want to deal with having to polish the thing all the time or have to clear coat it. I was able to save 87 grams off the frame weight in paint.
    Hi Craigstr,

    I have an EG too and have been contemplating converting her to raw aluminium (with clear coat). While there are many bit and pieces of instructions here, i wonder if you can help by advsiing me whether the process that I have put together below is correct (for stripping my frame down to bare aluminium):

    Note: My front triangle is current powdercoat, while my rear trianle is anodized...

    1) Strip bike bare of all parts, inclu bearings, shox etc..

    2) Front triangle: spray on paint remover and leave it on for at least 15min to remove paint. (1) immerse (2) scrub (3) wash off (4) repeat (1)-(3) until all paints are off

    3) Rear triangle: immerse in oven cleaner for at least 15min to remove paint. (1) immerse (2) scrub (3) wash off (4) repeat (1)-(3) until all paints are off

    4) For both triangle: (1) wipe dry (2) sand down with normal sand paper to create a “brushed” look (3) Clean and wipe dry

    5) Clear coat: (1) spray a clear coat over the frame (2) thorough dry the coat (3) repeat 8-9 coats

    6) Final touch: (1) wet sand with 1500 grid sand paper (2) wet sand with 2000 grid sand paper

    7) Viola, nice new RAW frame with clear coat.

  10. #210
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    Quote Originally Posted by judyklien View Post
    Hi Craigstr,

    I have an EG too and have been contemplating converting her to raw aluminium (with clear coat). While there are many bit and pieces of instructions here, i wonder if you can help by advsiing me whether the process that I have put together below is correct (for stripping my frame down to bare aluminium):

    Note: My front triangle is current powdercoat, while my rear trianle is anodized...

    1) Strip bike bare of all parts, inclu bearings, shox etc..

    2) Front triangle: spray on paint remover and leave it on for at least 15min to remove paint. (1) immerse (2) scrub (3) wash off (4) repeat (1)-(3) until all paints are off

    3) Rear triangle: immerse in oven cleaner for at least 15min to remove paint. (1) immerse (2) scrub (3) wash off (4) repeat (1)-(3) until all paints are off

    4) For both triangle: (1) wipe dry (2) sand down with normal sand paper to create a “brushed” look (3) Clean and wipe dry

    5) Clear coat: (1) spray a clear coat over the frame (2) thorough dry the coat (3) repeat 8-9 coats

    6) Final touch: (1) wet sand with 1500 grid sand paper (2) wet sand with 2000 grid sand paper

    7) Viola, nice new RAW frame with clear coat.
    Oven cleaner will eat Al. I would wet sand the ano off. Front triangle will have a nice bead blasted finish under the powder. I would leave it that way, the clear will stick to that better then anything. Clean the frame at least 6 times before clearing.

  11. #211
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    Mine was painted, Im not sure if powdercoat will come off as easy as paint. If you have trouble you might have a painter or powdercoater chemically strip it? Let us know how it
    goes.

  12. #212
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    Thks Shawn.... Do u know if e off-e-shelf rattle can clear coat will do e trick protecting e raw alu underneath? Or should I bring it to a pro for clear cost ano after I stripped e paint?

  13. #213
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    Quote Originally Posted by judyklien View Post
    Thks Shawn.... Do u know if e off-e-shelf rattle can clear coat will do e trick protecting e raw alu underneath? Or should I bring it to a pro for clear cost ano after I stripped e paint?
    Your keyboard missing some keys?

  14. #214
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    Didn't realize e massive typos...... Was using my iPhone hahahaha.....

  15. #215
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    Quote Originally Posted by judyklien View Post
    Thks Shawn.... Do u know if e off-e-shelf rattle can clear coat will do e trick protecting e raw alu underneath? Or should I bring it to a pro for clear cost ano after I stripped e paint?
    Honestly, if it were me, I wouldn't spend the money and time to clear coat Al. Al doesn't corrode like steel, and bare Al can be easily cleaned up to look like new.

    I think there is clear powder coat. I would consider that, done by a professional, if it was suitable for a bike frame.

  16. #216
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    FInished it up!

    Whole story is here:
    Project: El Guapo "Lite"
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Let's see your raw aluminium!-p1020697.jpg  


  17. #217
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    It looks great!

  18. #218
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    I kind of want to tear down my new Stumpy and polish up the frame...but idkkkk about that

  19. #219
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    craigstr, your bike looks awesome. Great job!

  20. #220
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    Absolutely beautiful. Congratulations, very well done.
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  21. #221
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    Quote Originally Posted by sasquatch rides a SS View Post
    I kind of want to tear down my new Stumpy and polish up the frame...but idkkkk about that
    Are you stuttering again?

  22. #222
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    nope long time buddy!


    I just don't know if I want to ruin a perfectly good finish to make it look like a mirror. My reasoning is this..
    1. I only have 1 season on it, and it was a short season since Ohio has been so wet this past year
    2. A mirror/polished finish would not be ideal for me. I do not ride with pants, so looking down at the frame while riding I would see the bottom of my beanbag in the reflection

    I just don't know about that yet..maybe after this season

  23. #223
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    Quote Originally Posted by sasquatch rides a SS View Post
    nope long time buddy!


    I just don't know if I want to ruin a perfectly good finish to make it look like a mirror. My reasoning is this..
    1. I only have 1 season on it, and it was a short season since Ohio has been so wet this past year
    2. A mirror/polished finish would not be ideal for me. I do not ride with pants, so looking down at the frame while riding I would see the bottom of my beanbag in the reflection

    I just don't know about that yet..maybe after this season
    So, after this season, it will be ok to look down and see the bottom of your beanbag?

  24. #224
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    No, I'm never going to be able to get around that, but if I wait another season it will help me justify it for reason 1. I do like the stock paintjob...and once it's mirrored I can't go back

  25. #225
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    Your beanbag might get a sunburn!

  26. #226
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    I'm not worried about that. From riding pantsless for as long as I have, any skin down there is basically layers upon layers of dead skin/calluses (hench why I'm not too fond of seeing the underside reflected) and I don't believe the sun's weaksauce rays can hurt it

  27. #227
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    Dude, you must have balls of steel!

  28. #228
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    polished aluminum (gotta get this thread back on topic...but no pictures)

  29. #229
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    Quote Originally Posted by sasquatch rides a SS View Post
    polished aluminum (gotta get this thread back on topic...but no pictures)
    lol! here's a pic! It needs to be touched up with Mothers.

  30. #230
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    That bike is now mine, send it to me. Along with that bag of beef jerky! bahaha

  31. #231
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    Quote Originally Posted by sasquatch rides a SS View Post
    That bike is now mine, send it to me. Along with that bag of beef jerky! bahaha
    Yeeeessss maaassssttttter.

  32. #232
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    Okay. I started things and...you guys didn't tell me this was going to be this much work! I got everything off the bike, stripped it with chemical stripper, and power washed it. All the paint is gone but it looks to me like the chemical stripper left behind the primer coat. Could that be or is this normal? It definitely took all of the paint. I hit it with a Scotch Bright pad but that wasn't enough to go through the gray stuff. Then I used a little 220 grit sand paper and that did the job just fine in my test spot. Beautiful metal! So, is what I'm experiencing normal or was the chemical stripper supposed to pretty much do the whole job? If I need to sand the whole thing, this will be pretty labor intensive. I'm going to have to really love this bike now.

  33. #233
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    Quote Originally Posted by njdj View Post
    Okay. I started things and...you guys didn't tell me this was going to be this much work! I got everything off the bike, stripped it with chemical stripper, and power washed it. All the paint is gone but it looks to me like the chemical stripper left behind the primer coat. Could that be or is this normal? It definitely took all of the paint. I hit it with a Scotch Bright pad but that wasn't enough to go through the gray stuff. Then I used a little 220 grit sand paper and that did the job just fine in my test spot. Beautiful metal! So, is what I'm experiencing normal or was the chemical stripper supposed to pretty much do the whole job? If I need to sand the whole thing, this will be pretty labor intensive. I'm going to have to really love this bike now.
    I think what you are seeing is like a bead blasted finish. It's a matte finish that paint or powder will stick to. It's kinda hard to describe, but the finish is like fine sand paper. And it should be a little darker then the spot that you sanded. It's darker because the light doesn't reflect off of it. The stripper should have taken any primer off along with the paint. 0000 steel wool should smooth that finish over pretty easy. and it will be easier to use then paper. Always wet sand when using paper or steel wool, and don't get the Al on you skin.

  34. #234
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mountain Cycle Shawn View Post
    I think what you are seeing is like a bead blasted finish. It's a matte finish that paint or powder will stick to. It's kinda hard to describe, but the finish is like fine sand paper. And it should be a little darker then the spot that you sanded. It's darker because the light doesn't reflect off of it. The stripper should have taken any primer off along with the paint. 0000 steel wool should smooth that finish over pretty easy. and it will be easier to use then paper. Always wet sand when using paper or steel wool, and don't get the Al on you skin.
    Wet sand. Okay. Also, why not get the Al on skin? Is it a health hazard?

  35. #235
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    Any suggestions for a drill attachment that would speed the sanding process? How about a wire brush attachment?

  36. #236
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    Quote Originally Posted by njdj View Post
    Any suggestions for a drill attachment that would speed the sanding process? How about a wire brush attachment?
    I did it by hand with steel wool. For the nooks and crannies I used two very small wire brushes. One steel and one brass. The small steel wire brush will take off the aluminum if you're not gentle with it.

  37. #237
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    Quote Originally Posted by njdj View Post
    Wet sand. Okay. Also, why not get the Al on skin? Is it a health hazard?
    Wet sanding with water is safer, no dust, and it will give you a more consistant finish. And yes, to much Al is not good for you. There is some speculation that it may have something to do with Alzheimers disease.

  38. #238
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    Quote Originally Posted by njdj View Post
    Any suggestions for a drill attachment that would speed the sanding process? How about a wire brush attachment?
    For those who do this in the future, I used a dremel with a brass brush for the brazons and small parts. Worked well, just be careful.

  39. #239
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    Quote Originally Posted by njdj View Post
    For those who do this in the future, I used a dremel with a brass brush for the brazons and small parts. Worked well, just be careful.
    Where are the pictures? We like bike porn...

  40. #240
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    Quote Originally Posted by marpilli View Post
    Where are the pictures? We like bike porn...
    Lots of it!!!
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  41. #241
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    Quote Originally Posted by yakuzafreerider View Post
    Very nice...thats what I'm hoping to do...dig the orange spokes!
    Orange spokes look great!!!

  42. #242
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    Quote Originally Posted by marpilli View Post
    Where are the pictures? We like bike porn...
    i

    I will once it is back together.

  43. #243
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    Preston

    Here is my trail bike-- 05 Transition Preston. Just rawed it out on New Years. This frame was an absolute nightmare to strip. I had a FR bike that I recently got rid of that I rawed 5 or 6 years ago that was a breeze to strip. Wish I had a pic of the other bike as well.....


    Preston in it's native habitat

    Chainstay Koi

    Butta'
    Last edited by RaindogT; 02-03-2012 at 07:10 PM.
    If you are lonely when you're alone, you are in bad company

  44. #244
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    Some shiny, along with a ride ending broken pedal.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Let's see your raw aluminium!-imageuploadedbytapatalk1328320864.555155.jpg  


  45. #245
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    My old Intense M6. Started life with a raw finish and I polished it prior to building it up.






    My Uzzi VP I never got around to polishing.


    And my current ride. 2011 Turner 5 Spot. Also not polished. Love the raw finish. Easy to maintain and I like the industrial look.

  46. #246
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    Quote Originally Posted by Marshall Willanholly View Post
    My old Intense M6. Started life with a raw finish and I polished it prior to building it up.
    When it comes to polished frames, your M6 has got to be my absolute favorite of them all.
    2012 Intense M9
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  47. #247
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    Deleted
    Last edited by John Kuhl; 02-04-2012 at 02:34 PM.

  48. #248
    ...for I am a raindog too
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    'Twasn't me, John---- Although, I am considering adding to it since you apparently felt compelled to cry about it in a public setting.... To me and my group of friends, Airing something that nobody knows/knew about is just asking for it to perpetuate-- but we are jolly pranksters like that.
    If you are lonely when you're alone, you are in bad company

  49. #249
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    Rep thing is stupid anyway, dont worry about it.

  50. #250
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    Last edited by client_9; 02-06-2012 at 06:32 AM. Reason: photo added

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