Page 3 of 5 FirstFirst 12345 LastLast
Results 201 to 300 of 469
  1. #201
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Eville140's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Posts
    235
    If you have a healthy polisher you can get away with stopping at 1000grit on easier to reach spots. I have this http://www.harborfreight.com/garage-...fer-40668.html And with some good compound it'll take paper marks out pretty quick.
    I wouldn't shoot for mirror finish if you plan on getting it dirty, even wiping dust off the frame will dull the finish.

  2. #202
    inexperienced at large
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Posts
    1,859
    Hey, so I'm a complete newb to this field of information and have some questions that highly reflect my knowledge of the matter. So, I pulled out an old Specialized Hardrock Sport, and I mean an old one. It's a tad smaller than I'd like, but this bike is going to Burning Man and so long as it is functional, I'll take it. It will remain rather squalid in comparison to much of the metal work there, but I'd like to touch it up all the same. It's a Chromoly frame and I have heard it is possible to polish it nicely. Anyone have a guide handy?

  3. #203
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Desertguns's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Posts
    37
    Quote Originally Posted by Eville140 View Post
    If you have a healthy polisher you can get away with stopping at 1000grit on easier to reach spots. I have this 8" Benchtop Buffer And with some good compound it'll take paper marks out pretty quick.
    I wouldn't shoot for mirror finish if you plan on getting it dirty, even wiping dust off the frame will dull the finish.
    10-4 on that. I stopped at 1200 grit wet, then automotive rubbing compound, then polishing compound, then, of course, Mothers.

    ehigh - I have no experience with steel in this context. I ended up painting the rigid chrom/moly steel fork with Duplicolor chrome at 800 grit. Work OK but will try something different in a couple of months. Did not clear coat the aluminum (and have no intention to do so) but would need to do something like that with steel.

  4. #204
    inexperienced at large
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Posts
    1,859
    Yeah I had read mention of it on a different forum, but there were not any definitive answers.

  5. #205
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Desertguns's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Posts
    37
    Quote Originally Posted by ehigh View Post
    Yeah I had read mention of it on a different forum, but there were not any definitive answers.
    If it's going to Burning Man, you might consider some neon spray paint & flower stickers. Maybe for the bike too. Then figure out the best method of polishing/coating afterward. Also, be sure to take a gross of prophylactics with you! What a party that event is...

    I'm a gun guy, so I'm thinking of blueing the fork. That would look good in contrast to a polished frame. Probably not practical for a complete frame.

  6. #206
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Desertguns's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Posts
    37
    Quote Originally Posted by Eville140 View Post
    If you have a healthy polisher you can get away with stopping at 1000grit on easier to reach spots. I have this 8" Benchtop Buffer And with some good compound it'll take paper marks out pretty quick.
    I wouldn't shoot for mirror finish if you plan on getting it dirty, even wiping dust off the frame will dull the finish.
    No doubt there are a number of ways to get to the final product. I found that knowing when enough, was enough, was my biggest problem. 2000 grit is serious dedication. And some of it depends on if you have a 6061 or 7075 alloy frame, as far as brush marks & crash ding penetrations are concerned. I like the brushed look but wonder if those events make that inevitability more visible?

    Do you mind a brush marked 4X4, or do you want a perpetually polished Porsche? We all have different expectations, I think, and need to proceed based on those considerations. Whatever the choice, RAW bike frames are unique & a personalized statement.of dedication
    Last edited by Desertguns; 01-23-2012 at 06:51 PM.

  7. #207
    inexperienced at large
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Posts
    1,859
    Quote Originally Posted by Desertguns View Post
    If it's going to Burning Man, you might consider some neon spray paint & flower stickers. Maybe for the bike too. Then figure out the best method of polishing/coating afterward. Also, be sure to take a gross of prophylactics with you! What a party that event is...

    I'm a gun guy, so I'm thinking of blueing the fork. That would look good in contrast to a polished frame. Probably not practical for a complete frame.
    It may end up getting some paint on it once it is there, but I think I can get it shiny. I found this old thread
    BMXmuseum.com Forums / POLISHED, NOT PLATED!

    Sounds like a lot of work, and I might not get it that clean looking. I still think I'll give it a shot though.

    And I definitely plan on being prepared, regardless of how dazed I may end up becoming.

  8. #208
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Desertguns's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Posts
    37
    Quote Originally Posted by ehigh View Post
    It may end up getting some paint on it once it is there, but I think I can get it shiny. I found this old thread
    BMXmuseum.com Forums / POLISHED, NOT PLATED!

    Sounds like a lot of work, and I might not get it that clean looking. I still think I'll give it a shot though.

    And I definitely plan on being prepared, regardless of how dazed I may end up becoming.
    Great link! Amazing photos & saw the process as I scrolled down. Again, that is dedication. BTW - At Burning Man, if you have 2.4" tires of wider, mount them, & run at 35psi or so. Hardpack turns to silt dirt/sand in a few feet. Well, it did when I was there - '92, 96, '02, etc

  9. #209
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Posts
    27
    Quote Originally Posted by craigstr View Post
    I didnt want to deal with having to polish the thing all the time or have to clear coat it. I was able to save 87 grams off the frame weight in paint.
    Hi Craigstr,

    I have an EG too and have been contemplating converting her to raw aluminium (with clear coat). While there are many bit and pieces of instructions here, i wonder if you can help by advsiing me whether the process that I have put together below is correct (for stripping my frame down to bare aluminium):

    Note: My front triangle is current powdercoat, while my rear trianle is anodized...

    1) Strip bike bare of all parts, inclu bearings, shox etc..

    2) Front triangle: spray on paint remover and leave it on for at least 15min to remove paint. (1) immerse (2) scrub (3) wash off (4) repeat (1)-(3) until all paints are off

    3) Rear triangle: immerse in oven cleaner for at least 15min to remove paint. (1) immerse (2) scrub (3) wash off (4) repeat (1)-(3) until all paints are off

    4) For both triangle: (1) wipe dry (2) sand down with normal sand paper to create a “brushed” look (3) Clean and wipe dry

    5) Clear coat: (1) spray a clear coat over the frame (2) thorough dry the coat (3) repeat 8-9 coats

    6) Final touch: (1) wet sand with 1500 grid sand paper (2) wet sand with 2000 grid sand paper

    7) Viola, nice new RAW frame with clear coat.

  10. #210
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Mountain Cycle Shawn's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    12,655
    Quote Originally Posted by judyklien View Post
    Hi Craigstr,

    I have an EG too and have been contemplating converting her to raw aluminium (with clear coat). While there are many bit and pieces of instructions here, i wonder if you can help by advsiing me whether the process that I have put together below is correct (for stripping my frame down to bare aluminium):

    Note: My front triangle is current powdercoat, while my rear trianle is anodized...

    1) Strip bike bare of all parts, inclu bearings, shox etc..

    2) Front triangle: spray on paint remover and leave it on for at least 15min to remove paint. (1) immerse (2) scrub (3) wash off (4) repeat (1)-(3) until all paints are off

    3) Rear triangle: immerse in oven cleaner for at least 15min to remove paint. (1) immerse (2) scrub (3) wash off (4) repeat (1)-(3) until all paints are off

    4) For both triangle: (1) wipe dry (2) sand down with normal sand paper to create a “brushed” look (3) Clean and wipe dry

    5) Clear coat: (1) spray a clear coat over the frame (2) thorough dry the coat (3) repeat 8-9 coats

    6) Final touch: (1) wet sand with 1500 grid sand paper (2) wet sand with 2000 grid sand paper

    7) Viola, nice new RAW frame with clear coat.
    Oven cleaner will eat Al. I would wet sand the ano off. Front triangle will have a nice bead blasted finish under the powder. I would leave it that way, the clear will stick to that better then anything. Clean the frame at least 6 times before clearing.

  11. #211
    mtbr member
    Reputation: craigstr's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2003
    Posts
    4,357
    Mine was painted, Im not sure if powdercoat will come off as easy as paint. If you have trouble you might have a painter or powdercoater chemically strip it? Let us know how it
    goes.

  12. #212
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Posts
    27
    Thks Shawn.... Do u know if e off-e-shelf rattle can clear coat will do e trick protecting e raw alu underneath? Or should I bring it to a pro for clear cost ano after I stripped e paint?

  13. #213
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Posts
    4,731
    Quote Originally Posted by judyklien View Post
    Thks Shawn.... Do u know if e off-e-shelf rattle can clear coat will do e trick protecting e raw alu underneath? Or should I bring it to a pro for clear cost ano after I stripped e paint?
    Your keyboard missing some keys?

  14. #214
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Posts
    27
    Didn't realize e massive typos...... Was using my iPhone hahahaha.....

  15. #215
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Mountain Cycle Shawn's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    12,655
    Quote Originally Posted by judyklien View Post
    Thks Shawn.... Do u know if e off-e-shelf rattle can clear coat will do e trick protecting e raw alu underneath? Or should I bring it to a pro for clear cost ano after I stripped e paint?
    Honestly, if it were me, I wouldn't spend the money and time to clear coat Al. Al doesn't corrode like steel, and bare Al can be easily cleaned up to look like new.

    I think there is clear powder coat. I would consider that, done by a professional, if it was suitable for a bike frame.

  16. #216
    mtbr member
    Reputation: craigstr's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2003
    Posts
    4,357

    FInished it up!

    Whole story is here:
    Project: El Guapo "Lite"
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Let's see your raw aluminium!-p1020697.jpg  


  17. #217
    Noob
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Posts
    95
    It looks great!

  18. #218
    mtbr member
    Reputation: sasquatch rides a SS's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Posts
    4,559
    I kind of want to tear down my new Stumpy and polish up the frame...but idkkkk about that

  19. #219
    banned
    Reputation: marpilli's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Posts
    3,993
    craigstr, your bike looks awesome. Great job!

  20. #220
    mtbr member
    Reputation: mtbnozpikr's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    1,684
    Absolutely beautiful. Congratulations, very well done.
    2012 Intense M9
    2012 Pivot Mach 5.7 Carbon
    2008 Look 595
    2007 Custom Litespeed Sewanee

  21. #221
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Mountain Cycle Shawn's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    12,655
    Quote Originally Posted by sasquatch rides a SS View Post
    I kind of want to tear down my new Stumpy and polish up the frame...but idkkkk about that
    Are you stuttering again?

  22. #222
    mtbr member
    Reputation: sasquatch rides a SS's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Posts
    4,559
    nope long time buddy!


    I just don't know if I want to ruin a perfectly good finish to make it look like a mirror. My reasoning is this..
    1. I only have 1 season on it, and it was a short season since Ohio has been so wet this past year
    2. A mirror/polished finish would not be ideal for me. I do not ride with pants, so looking down at the frame while riding I would see the bottom of my beanbag in the reflection

    I just don't know about that yet..maybe after this season

  23. #223
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Mountain Cycle Shawn's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    12,655
    Quote Originally Posted by sasquatch rides a SS View Post
    nope long time buddy!


    I just don't know if I want to ruin a perfectly good finish to make it look like a mirror. My reasoning is this..
    1. I only have 1 season on it, and it was a short season since Ohio has been so wet this past year
    2. A mirror/polished finish would not be ideal for me. I do not ride with pants, so looking down at the frame while riding I would see the bottom of my beanbag in the reflection

    I just don't know about that yet..maybe after this season
    So, after this season, it will be ok to look down and see the bottom of your beanbag?

  24. #224
    mtbr member
    Reputation: sasquatch rides a SS's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Posts
    4,559
    No, I'm never going to be able to get around that, but if I wait another season it will help me justify it for reason 1. I do like the stock paintjob...and once it's mirrored I can't go back

  25. #225
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Mountain Cycle Shawn's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    12,655
    Your beanbag might get a sunburn!

  26. #226
    mtbr member
    Reputation: sasquatch rides a SS's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Posts
    4,559
    I'm not worried about that. From riding pantsless for as long as I have, any skin down there is basically layers upon layers of dead skin/calluses (hench why I'm not too fond of seeing the underside reflected) and I don't believe the sun's weaksauce rays can hurt it

  27. #227
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Mountain Cycle Shawn's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    12,655
    Dude, you must have balls of steel!

  28. #228
    mtbr member
    Reputation: sasquatch rides a SS's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Posts
    4,559
    polished aluminum (gotta get this thread back on topic...but no pictures)

  29. #229
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Mountain Cycle Shawn's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    12,655
    Quote Originally Posted by sasquatch rides a SS View Post
    polished aluminum (gotta get this thread back on topic...but no pictures)
    lol! here's a pic! It needs to be touched up with Mothers.

  30. #230
    mtbr member
    Reputation: sasquatch rides a SS's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Posts
    4,559
    That bike is now mine, send it to me. Along with that bag of beef jerky! bahaha

  31. #231
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Mountain Cycle Shawn's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    12,655
    Quote Originally Posted by sasquatch rides a SS View Post
    That bike is now mine, send it to me. Along with that bag of beef jerky! bahaha
    Yeeeessss maaassssttttter.

  32. #232
    Noob
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Posts
    95
    Okay. I started things and...you guys didn't tell me this was going to be this much work! I got everything off the bike, stripped it with chemical stripper, and power washed it. All the paint is gone but it looks to me like the chemical stripper left behind the primer coat. Could that be or is this normal? It definitely took all of the paint. I hit it with a Scotch Bright pad but that wasn't enough to go through the gray stuff. Then I used a little 220 grit sand paper and that did the job just fine in my test spot. Beautiful metal! So, is what I'm experiencing normal or was the chemical stripper supposed to pretty much do the whole job? If I need to sand the whole thing, this will be pretty labor intensive. I'm going to have to really love this bike now.

  33. #233
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Mountain Cycle Shawn's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    12,655
    Quote Originally Posted by njdj View Post
    Okay. I started things and...you guys didn't tell me this was going to be this much work! I got everything off the bike, stripped it with chemical stripper, and power washed it. All the paint is gone but it looks to me like the chemical stripper left behind the primer coat. Could that be or is this normal? It definitely took all of the paint. I hit it with a Scotch Bright pad but that wasn't enough to go through the gray stuff. Then I used a little 220 grit sand paper and that did the job just fine in my test spot. Beautiful metal! So, is what I'm experiencing normal or was the chemical stripper supposed to pretty much do the whole job? If I need to sand the whole thing, this will be pretty labor intensive. I'm going to have to really love this bike now.
    I think what you are seeing is like a bead blasted finish. It's a matte finish that paint or powder will stick to. It's kinda hard to describe, but the finish is like fine sand paper. And it should be a little darker then the spot that you sanded. It's darker because the light doesn't reflect off of it. The stripper should have taken any primer off along with the paint. 0000 steel wool should smooth that finish over pretty easy. and it will be easier to use then paper. Always wet sand when using paper or steel wool, and don't get the Al on you skin.

  34. #234
    Noob
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Posts
    95
    Quote Originally Posted by Mountain Cycle Shawn View Post
    I think what you are seeing is like a bead blasted finish. It's a matte finish that paint or powder will stick to. It's kinda hard to describe, but the finish is like fine sand paper. And it should be a little darker then the spot that you sanded. It's darker because the light doesn't reflect off of it. The stripper should have taken any primer off along with the paint. 0000 steel wool should smooth that finish over pretty easy. and it will be easier to use then paper. Always wet sand when using paper or steel wool, and don't get the Al on you skin.
    Wet sand. Okay. Also, why not get the Al on skin? Is it a health hazard?

  35. #235
    Noob
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Posts
    95
    Any suggestions for a drill attachment that would speed the sanding process? How about a wire brush attachment?

  36. #236
    banned
    Reputation: marpilli's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Posts
    3,993
    Quote Originally Posted by njdj View Post
    Any suggestions for a drill attachment that would speed the sanding process? How about a wire brush attachment?
    I did it by hand with steel wool. For the nooks and crannies I used two very small wire brushes. One steel and one brass. The small steel wire brush will take off the aluminum if you're not gentle with it.

  37. #237
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Mountain Cycle Shawn's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    12,655
    Quote Originally Posted by njdj View Post
    Wet sand. Okay. Also, why not get the Al on skin? Is it a health hazard?
    Wet sanding with water is safer, no dust, and it will give you a more consistant finish. And yes, to much Al is not good for you. There is some speculation that it may have something to do with Alzheimers disease.

  38. #238
    Noob
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Posts
    95
    Quote Originally Posted by njdj View Post
    Any suggestions for a drill attachment that would speed the sanding process? How about a wire brush attachment?
    For those who do this in the future, I used a dremel with a brass brush for the brazons and small parts. Worked well, just be careful.

  39. #239
    banned
    Reputation: marpilli's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Posts
    3,993
    Quote Originally Posted by njdj View Post
    For those who do this in the future, I used a dremel with a brass brush for the brazons and small parts. Worked well, just be careful.
    Where are the pictures? We like bike porn...

  40. #240
    mtbr member
    Reputation: mtbnozpikr's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    1,684
    Quote Originally Posted by marpilli View Post
    Where are the pictures? We like bike porn...
    Lots of it!!!
    2012 Intense M9
    2012 Pivot Mach 5.7 Carbon
    2008 Look 595
    2007 Custom Litespeed Sewanee

  41. #241
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Posts
    24
    Quote Originally Posted by yakuzafreerider View Post
    Very nice...thats what I'm hoping to do...dig the orange spokes!
    Orange spokes look great!!!

  42. #242
    Noob
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Posts
    95
    Quote Originally Posted by marpilli View Post
    Where are the pictures? We like bike porn...
    i

    I will once it is back together.

  43. #243
    ...for I am a raindog too
    Reputation: RaindogT's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Posts
    267

    Preston

    Here is my trail bike-- 05 Transition Preston. Just rawed it out on New Years. This frame was an absolute nightmare to strip. I had a FR bike that I recently got rid of that I rawed 5 or 6 years ago that was a breeze to strip. Wish I had a pic of the other bike as well.....


    Preston in it's native habitat

    Chainstay Koi

    Butta'
    Last edited by RaindogT; 02-03-2012 at 07:10 PM.
    If you are lonely when you're alone, you are in bad company

  44. #244
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Eville140's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Posts
    235
    Some shiny, along with a ride ending broken pedal.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Let's see your raw aluminium!-imageuploadedbytapatalk1328320864.555155.jpg  


  45. #245
    on a routine expedition
    Reputation: Marshall Willanholly's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    1,571
    My old Intense M6. Started life with a raw finish and I polished it prior to building it up.






    My Uzzi VP I never got around to polishing.


    And my current ride. 2011 Turner 5 Spot. Also not polished. Love the raw finish. Easy to maintain and I like the industrial look.

  46. #246
    mtbr member
    Reputation: mtbnozpikr's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    1,684
    Quote Originally Posted by Marshall Willanholly View Post
    My old Intense M6. Started life with a raw finish and I polished it prior to building it up.
    When it comes to polished frames, your M6 has got to be my absolute favorite of them all.
    2012 Intense M9
    2012 Pivot Mach 5.7 Carbon
    2008 Look 595
    2007 Custom Litespeed Sewanee

  47. #247
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    4,333
    Deleted
    Last edited by John Kuhl; 02-04-2012 at 02:34 PM.

  48. #248
    ...for I am a raindog too
    Reputation: RaindogT's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Posts
    267
    'Twasn't me, John---- Although, I am considering adding to it since you apparently felt compelled to cry about it in a public setting.... To me and my group of friends, Airing something that nobody knows/knew about is just asking for it to perpetuate-- but we are jolly pranksters like that.
    If you are lonely when you're alone, you are in bad company

  49. #249
    mtbr member
    Reputation: craigstr's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2003
    Posts
    4,357
    Rep thing is stupid anyway, dont worry about it.

  50. #250
    mtbr member
    Reputation: client_9's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Posts
    828




    Last edited by client_9; 02-06-2012 at 06:32 AM. Reason: photo added

  51. #251
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Posts
    116
    Here is my 09 Anthem
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Let's see your raw aluminium!-img_3099-medium-.jpg  


  52. #252
    mtbr member
    Reputation: client_9's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Posts
    828
    Quote Originally Posted by boboxx View Post
    Here is my 09 Anthem
    What shock you gonna put in there?

  53. #253
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Posts
    116
    I will be using the stock rp2 and the SID in the front

  54. #254
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Posts
    7
    those bikes all look awesome i think i like the aluminum look more than the stock paint job

  55. #255
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Posts
    29
    Here are some pics of my old Giant AC:








  56. #256
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    4,333
    Very nice Giant Stuartfleming.

    Best, John

  57. #257
    Noob
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Posts
    95

    Bike Porn!

    Okay, here is mine all finished up. Thanks everyone for the inspiration. I really hated the green color on my bike and, with the help of this thread, I did something about it. Anyway, she started life as a Trek 4300 Disc, but is now something completely different. In addition to stripping the finish, I replaced every single part on the bike. I haven't had much time to ride it yet, but I think I'm going to love it. I have long term thoughts of possibly transferring all my new components to a different frame, may a hardtail Ti. Anyway, here she is:

    Frame: Trek 4300
    Fork: Rock Shock Tora 302 U Turn w/remote
    Drive Train: Complete Sram X7 2x10
    Brakes: Avid Juicy 7
    Wheelset: Mavic Crosstrail Disc
    Headset: Crane Creek
    Seatpost, Stem, Handle Bars: Race Face Turbine








  58. #258
    Noob
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Posts
    95

    One more thing...

    One more thing about my bike above. I was thinking about putting stickers on it, but part of me wants to keep it plain. I thought about putting one of the cool stickers from Dean Bikes on it, as my name is Dean. Do you think that's too cheesy? Maybe I should put Trek or nothing? It does sort of look "industrial" without anything on it...kind of cool for a mountain bike.

  59. #259
    mtbr member
    Reputation: ghughes.hesinc's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Posts
    434
    No stickers...it looks great as is. Nice job with the strip. What size tires are those, they look huge!

  60. #260
    banned
    Reputation: marpilli's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Posts
    3,993
    njdj, your bike looks fantastic. I think it looks great without the stickers. You can always ride it for awhile and add the stickers later.

  61. #261
    Noob
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Posts
    95
    Thanks for the compliments guys. I have you folks that are a part of this thread to thank for giving me the "courage" to make it happen.

    Quote Originally Posted by ghughes.hesinc View Post
    No stickers...it looks great as is. Nice job with the strip. What size tires are those, they look huge!
    The tires are pretty big. The rear is a Bonty XR2 2.1 and the front is a Bonty XR4 2.2. Very grippy and I highly recommend them. I have been riding that combo for about a year now. However, before the "makeover", they had tubes. Now running them tubeless since part of the upgrade was the Mavics and they are UST. BTW, if someone is looking for a wheelset to go with a rawed out frame, I think these match really well. In between the spokes there is an area that has been left raw with the sides of the rim being black (see photo above). I got them from Huck n Roll for about $250. They also had some pretty outrageous decals on the rim sidewalls, but I removed them and just left the small Mavic stickers on the rim. I thought simpler looked better. I think the combo looks pretty neat, kinda like it was made for each other.
    Last edited by njdj; 02-12-2012 at 05:48 AM.

  62. #262
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Posts
    116
    I decided to make a new sticker set (if anyone wants a copy send me a PM)
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Let's see your raw aluminium!-dsc_5490.jpg  


  63. #263
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Posts
    5
    Being a big fan of raw finishes, I think I have to post my kids:
    Liteville 301 mk8 - raw aluminium, factory finish ( local bikeshop where they built the bike say it is most likely clear anodized)
    Duratec C9 - originally powdercoated, used paint remover and sandpapers 250-600
    now building Cannondale Furio - originally painted ( does Cannondale use powdercoat?), paint removed in painting shop ( head shok with paint remover inhouse) + brush on a drill, sandpaper 400 + 600 + 1000, polished with an polishing tool with paste on a drill. Since the original brush scratches from Cannondale factory were quite heavy and I didnt have a patience to get them out with sandpaper the result is sort of "scratchandpolish" but looks quite cool imo.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Let's see your raw aluminium!-bajks.jpg  

    Let's see your raw aluminium!-can2.jpg  

    Let's see your raw aluminium!-can3.jpg  

    Last edited by kandik; 04-04-2012 at 12:47 AM.

  64. #264
    Dirt Huffer
    Reputation: AC/BC's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Posts
    1,639
    Got mine stripped. Now to polish


  65. #265
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Posts
    360
    Quote Originally Posted by AC/BC View Post
    Got mine stripped. Now to polish

    Looks great. How did you strip it?

  66. #266
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Posts
    10
    These all look so sick, I love those mavic wheels too!

  67. #267
    mtbr member
    Reputation: bob7's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Posts
    69
    these are awesome. :drool

  68. #268
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Posts
    88
    Quote Originally Posted by boboxx View Post
    Here is my 09 Anthem
    Thats good lookin!

  69. #269
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Posts
    3
    My Scott Scale 29" - 8,9 kg


  70. #270
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Posts
    13
    A work in progress.


  71. #271
    mtbr member
    Reputation: trojans1993's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Posts
    490
    Here's my new passion - been on it for about 5 months now and gets more fun every day. Polishing it by hand made me appreciate it even more once it was built.

  72. #272
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Posts
    562
    We don't have any Aircraft grade paint stripper available here in the Philippines, I was wondering if anyone has rawed a Turner frame? Would a standard paint stripper work on it?

  73. #273
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Posts
    99
    Picture is also posted elsewhere but this is mine. It's not a DIY job since it came stock in the raw aluminum look. Cannondale Rush 35th Anniversary Edition.




  74. #274
    mtbr member
    Reputation: smilinsteve's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Posts
    8,613
    Quote Originally Posted by trojans1993 View Post
    Here's my new passion - been on it for about 5 months now and gets more fun every day. Polishing it by hand made me appreciate it even more once it was built.
    That Tracer looks great. Better than the works finish IMO (which is what I have on my Spider 29). Did you get a new sticker kit or just polish around the stickers?

  75. #275
    mtbr member
    Reputation: trojans1993's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Posts
    490
    Quote Originally Posted by smilinsteve View Post
    Did you get a new sticker kit or just polish around the stickers?
    It would be pretty tough to do it around the existing decals so I stripped it clean. If you want to send me a PM with your regular email, I will forward you a brief write up with a couple other pics during the process.

  76. #276
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Posts
    164
    Not totally sold on the raw aluminum look but I can't deny its functionality.


  77. #277
    mtbr member
    Reputation: xl_cheese's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    524
    My previous Ventana El Patron 29er.




  78. #278
    mtbr member
    Reputation: xl_cheese's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    524
    Here it is all built up.




    And being ridden.


  79. #279
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Mountain Cycle Shawn's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    12,655
    Good bye

  80. #280
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Mountain Cycle Shawn's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    12,655
    Quote Originally Posted by xl_cheese View Post
    Here it is all built up.
    Nice! It looks kinda short though.

  81. #281
    Master of the Face Plant
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Posts
    2,902
    76 years of oxidation can be harder to get off than paint.



    http://www.nbbikes.com/
    ^^^Best Bike Shop of MTBR 2008^^^

  82. #282
    mtbr member
    Reputation: smilinsteve's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Posts
    8,613
    Isn't that going to rust?

  83. #283
    Master of the Face Plant
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Posts
    2,902
    Quote Originally Posted by smilinsteve View Post
    Isn't that going to rust?
    No, it's aluminum. Yes they had aluminum bikes in 1936. I will oxidize if you don't polish it once in a while.
    http://www.nbbikes.com/
    ^^^Best Bike Shop of MTBR 2008^^^

  84. #284
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Mountain Cycle Shawn's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    12,655
    Quote Originally Posted by sandmangts View Post
    76 years of oxidation can be harder to get off than paint.
    That is sweet!

  85. #285
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Mountain Cycle Shawn's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    12,655
    Quote Originally Posted by sandmangts View Post
    No, it's aluminum. Yes they had aluminum bikes in 1936. I will oxidize if you don't polish it once in a while.
    It's going to rust. That's why it was so hard to polish.

  86. #286
    Master of the Face Plant
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Posts
    2,902
    Quote Originally Posted by Mountain Cycle Shawn View Post
    It's going to rust. That's why it was so hard to polish.
    Really? The first photo was taken 3 years after I built the bike. I didn't notice any rust. I know bare aluminum will oxidize if not properly cared for but I use a polish followed by an automotive polymer that creates a barrier from moisture called liquid glass. I have not had to polish it for quite a while.
    http://www.nbbikes.com/
    ^^^Best Bike Shop of MTBR 2008^^^

  87. #287
    mtbr member
    Reputation: smilinsteve's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Posts
    8,613
    Quote Originally Posted by sandmangts View Post
    No, it's aluminum. Yes they had aluminum bikes in 1936. I will oxidize if you don't polish it once in a while.
    That's amazing those thin tubes are aluminum, from 1936!!
    That frame must be worth something.
    Great job polishing it.

    my 2 cents: aluminum doesn't rust unless you call oxidation rust, but rust normally refers to iron oxidation, not oxidation in general.

  88. #288
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Posts
    10
    no mo pics yet

  89. #289
    CS2
    CS2 is offline
    mtbr member
    Reputation: CS2's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Posts
    2,760
    Quote Originally Posted by smilinsteve View Post
    That's amazing those thin tubes are aluminum, from 1936!!
    That frame must be worth something.
    Great job polishing it.

    my 2 cents: aluminum doesn't rust unless you call oxidation rust, but rust normally refers to iron oxidation, not oxidation in general.
    How about some pictures of the dog in your avatar? I love bull breeds.
    A garage full of steel frames means happiness.

  90. #290
    CS2
    CS2 is offline
    mtbr member
    Reputation: CS2's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Posts
    2,760
    Quote Originally Posted by sandmangts View Post
    76 years of oxidation can be harder to get off than paint.
    Very nice bike. How about some history or the build specs?
    A garage full of steel frames means happiness.

  91. #291
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Posts
    3,214
    Quote Originally Posted by Mountain Cycle Shawn View Post
    It's going to rust. That's why it was so hard to polish.
    Aluminum can oxidize, but only iron can rust.
    2013 Santa Cruz TRc 650b
    2015 Lynskey Cooper CX
    2010 Soma Groove
    1987 Haro RS1

  92. #292
    mtbr member
    Reputation: smilinsteve's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Posts
    8,613
    Quote Originally Posted by CS2 View Post
    Very nice bike. How about some history or the build specs?
    I'd like to know how that thing is held together. There are no welds visible around those lugs!

  93. #293
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Posts
    17
    Very nice

  94. #294
    Master of the Face Plant
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Posts
    2,902
    Quote Originally Posted by smilinsteve View Post
    I'd like to know how that thing is held together. There are no welds visible around those lugs!
    The tubes are press fit into the forged pieces. It is a 1936 Wards Hawthorne Silver King. I got the frame for $100 bucks and the steerer tube was separated from the fork. This was a common issue. I milled another from a modern 1 inch steerer tube. The seat post was another challenge. It works just like a quill stem with a bolt and an expander to keep it in place. Finding an original is impossible so I made one out of a piece of aluminum rod by boring out the center and using an old quill stem wedge and bolt.

    It took lots of wet sanding down to 2000 grit to get a good base for hand polishing. The rims are vintage Araya 7x that I also polished. The front drum hub is an old Sachs and the rear coaster brake is a Morrow hub from the 40's. The cranks, truss rods, rear hub all came from an old Elgin. The stem is a Suntour, the saddle is a Brooks.
    http://www.nbbikes.com/
    ^^^Best Bike Shop of MTBR 2008^^^

  95. #295
    nothing to see here
    Reputation: Stevob's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Posts
    3,244
    Nice work! How many hours sanding & polishing to get it (just the frame) to that stage?
    I see hills.

    I want to climb them.

  96. #296
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Posts
    80
    This thread got me dialled in stripping the paint of my (modest) bike.

    My first attempt at doing something like this,most of the work done using chemical paint stripper and steel wool except for the dropout area where had to use a drill with steel brush.

    Have one question thought: I tried to use the woven cleaner trick to strip the anodized from an aluminium seatpost and it works reasonably well but the laser etched logos and lettering remain on bare aluminium, although not so much visible cant seem to brush them off. How deep can this laser etched things remain on aluminium?
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Let's see your raw aluminium!-rr5i.jpg  

    Let's see your raw aluminium!-rr01.jpg  

    Let's see your raw aluminium!-rr03.jpg  


  97. #297
    banned
    Reputation: marpilli's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Posts
    3,993
    FMCurto, your bike looks great!

    I don't have the experience to answer your question about removing the laser etching, though.

  98. #298
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Posts
    36
    sandman, that is the most beautiful bike I have ever seen. I really have to have one!

  99. #299
    Master of the Face Plant
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Posts
    2,902
    Quote Originally Posted by Mostly Broken View Post
    sandman, that is the most beautiful bike I have ever seen. I really have to have one!
    They come up on ebay and craigslist every now and then. Frames usually go for about $100-$200 bucks. My total investment on that bike was only $700 dollars. I have had offers on it up to $2000.
    http://www.nbbikes.com/
    ^^^Best Bike Shop of MTBR 2008^^^

  100. #300
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Posts
    10
    good aluminium frames

Page 3 of 5 FirstFirst 12345 LastLast