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  1. #1
    Willard
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    Ive got 350.00 to buy a complete mtb, no shocks. I want to..

    Well as I said I want a mtb that can do 80% road and 20% gravel/lite trail. Im 6'4" and 288lbs, with severe back problems. My weight and size are why Idont want a hybrid. Also my plans include a tall seatpost with a bigger m style saddle, a tall stem that will hold either tough BMX bars or some shorter Wald ape hanger bars. I dont need a shock up front either. I guess Im trying to make a heavy duty multi-speed cruiser. My bike now is an Iron Horse PT-4 with an interal nexus 4-speed, which is discontinued. I have both the seat post and stem up as high as they go. I have the ape hanger bars now, but with my stock stem the bars have a tendency to slide away or toward me. So Id like a better one, so basically a hybrid that sits way upright, that can do a beginner trail if need be. Thank so much for suggestions!! My lbs Im sure can get me a decient bike for the money. Cool, later Will.
    Fuji Nevada 4.0 W/Surge hard forks. I sit very up-right due to my back injury.

  2. #2
    capt bluebear's 28th life
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    trek 820 is $364. replace tires with Maxxis Over Drive for your needs. you'll also need to use your own handlebars. btw I sort of can sympathize to your ailments as both my mom and her mom have bad backs (my grandma has 4 cement-mended vertabrae that were crumpling before the fix)

  3. #3
    Wēk Ss
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    An old steel bike off craig's list. I have a 1990 Specialized Rockhopper, fully rigid, threaded fork using a quill stem that allows for much more height adjustment. You can pick these up for $100 or less. It serves dual duty for me, as you are looking for, and is also my single speed (I modified it for single speed) get around bike in addition to rides with the kids.

    Spend the rest of the money on modifications. It sounds like you may have a quill stem already, as I think the PT-4 used a quill stem. You should just buy a new quill stem that is both long, as long as you can get minimum insertion, and a high rise along with high rise riser bars.

    The old Rockhopper comes with 7-speed cassettes, and wheels that stay true albeit a bit heavy, and you would need new wheels for 9-speed. Nothing wrong with 7-speed though, and the SRAM PG-730 cassette for more range.

    There's no need for a brand new bike, unless you want to pay alot more for the same stuff, and a suspension fork that can't handle your weight.

    Here's a quill stem for you!

  4. #4
    Willard
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    Ok so a 7/8 quill will do, now my bike has the nexus 4 speed internal rear hub. Can I put a 7 or 8 cassette in back off of an old mtb? If there was some way to convert my cruiser to a 21 speed man I would be soooo happy! I of course have no idea how to do it and what parts to get that would fit. My bike would be so much easier to ride! At the minium a 7 or 8 speed would be awesome too, then I could go up small grades and enable me to ride on the road and very little on gravel and some dirt. Later, and keep up the advice!
    Fuji Nevada 4.0 W/Surge hard forks. I sit very up-right due to my back injury.

  5. #5
    Wēk Ss
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    Quote Originally Posted by willbarrow81 View Post
    Ok so a 7/8 quill will do, now my bike has the nexus 4 speed internal rear hub. Can I put a 7 or 8 cassette in back off of an old mtb? If there was some way to convert my cruiser to a 21 speed man I would be soooo happy! I of course have no idea how to do it and what parts to get that would fit. My bike would be so much easier to ride! At the minium a 7 or 8 speed would be awesome too, then I could go up small grades and enable me to ride on the road and very little on gravel and some dirt. Later, and keep up the advice!
    Most likely you have a 1" threaded fork, which uses a 7/8" quill stem. Measure it.

    You cannot put a cassette on your hub. Your bike also does not have a derailleur hanger, that I can tell. You can build a new wheel with a new internal hub that has more gears. It'll cost a pretty penny though, as internal geared hubs are not cheap. Your bike also has a coaster brake (?), which kinda suck for trails. You'd want some better brakes, as coaster has a tendency to skid when going downhill (even on a small grade) and it's harder to modulate.

    It's cheaper to buy a used bike instead of doing all that unless you have a pure affinity for your PT-4. Wheels would cost you about $100 for a new set, after shipping. Shifter will run you about $20 for the rear. The derailleur, depending on what you get, can be about $30. Cables, about $20. Cassette about $15-$30. The cost is a bit high compared to buying a used bike.

    An old steel mountain bike will be able to transfer handlebars over, and quill stem, and not require much or any changes. You may still want new shifters and brakes just to update, but it's going to be based on the condition of the existing stuff.

    My old Rockhopper has a 1" threaded fork, which takes the aforementioned quill stem. It came with everything, I just made a few conversions, from cantilever brakes to v-brakes, being the most worthwhile, about $40 total for a pair of v-brakes for front and rear, and about $20 for levers, $20 total for cables and housing for both front and rear. You may need a new crank, about $30-$40 for the cheap ones, and a new cassette $15-$20 for 7-speed, and a new chain about $10. Everything else should carry over. Now you don't really have to change anything. Cantilevers are fine, and work, just require more hand pressure. You also may not need to change the cranks, chain, and cassette as it may not be worn enough to warrant it.

  6. #6
    Willard
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    Ok, so its not possible to just swap out the rear wheel? I got confused between the two comments. So you think just go ahead and buy a used bike. Ive seen some on craigslist but they still want alot it seems. What about the mongoose deception 29er? Its big enough, and Ill be on the road mostly. I could even put a rigid fork on the front, and replace parts as needed or as broken. I know its not the best, but for my type of riding it should last a little while.. what do you think?
    Fuji Nevada 4.0 W/Surge hard forks. I sit very up-right due to my back injury.

  7. #7
    Wēk Ss
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    You can replace the wheel. It looks like you can get a bolt on derailleur hanger, supposedly. I've never used those. You need to measure the dropout spacing on your bike frame. 135mm is the normal mountain bike size. 130mm is the road bike size.

    The other issue is what you will do for brakes. I am not overly familiar with your frame. I don't know if you have mounting points for it. The best I can tell is that you don't. I also don't know if you have cable stops. You have coaster brakes, as best as I can tell. Mountain bikes don't use coaster, so you will not be able to get a coaster wheel unless you have one specially built for you. You can try to put on hand brakes, but I can't tell if your frame has mounting points for them.

    Since you are not knowledgeable in bike mechanics, you'll pay someone to do the work for you, which will run you a pretty penny for parts and labor. You'll be getting close to new bike territory.

    The Mongoose is a Walmart bike, I would pass on it.

    You can do a CL search with a maximum price limit, and search for Specialized or Trek, which are the popular brands. You're looking for an older bike, with a rigid fork. Specialized Hardrock That is an example. It looks a bit on the larger side, over 17" frame. It could be a 19" or 21", hard to say, and may not be available anymore.

    Here is another, though I don't know much about older GT bikes. GT Outpost Trail

    And another Trek 830 Antelop

    Edit: These old bikes take a quill stem, which allows you to raise the handlebar height quite a bit. The newer mountain bikes use threadless forks, so you are much more limited. Hybrids (new) still uses quill stems.

    Take someone who knows how to work on bikes to give it a once over before buying anything.

    If you're not comfortable with that, then your only real option is to buy a new bike. In that case, see if you can find some new hybrids on sale. The Trek 820 won't do it for you, it's not upright enough. Something like a Trek Pure would fit, but it's out of your budget unless you find a sale. I don't shop hybrids so I have no real recommendations.
    Last edited by IAmHolland; 07-28-2011 at 03:46 PM.

  8. #8
    Willard
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    Ok cool, Im sure its out of my league. Im thinking about going into the shop, telling them my idea, and if after they look at it, they can say ok hand brakes will or wont work, bolt on will/wont work, 3piece crank will/wont work..... I know my frame doesnt have cable stops well just one anyway. So unless they make bolt on ones im screwed. Being 6'3" 288 has its draw backs when it comes to bikes! I called a local bike shop today to ask about used or new bikes in the 300.-350. range, and he said dude no bike in the market in that range will hold you, you will HAVE to spend at least 6-700. bucks on your bike and Ill need a newer high dollar used bike about 4bills to get a frame that wont break! What! Guys I just want to ride farther than around the block. Ive rode three times this week, but I have to keep getting off and pushing. Thats part of what hurts the most. I cant walk very well. Keep up the suggestions, and Ill let you know what the lbs says too! Later, Will.

  9. #9
    Willard
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    That old hardrock is strong enough? If it will do I can go with it. Remember Im a big guy. A stronger quill, bmx? Bmx handlebars? Pedals, upgrade components and It will be fine? Please let me know!
    Fuji Nevada 4.0 W/Surge hard forks. I sit very up-right due to my back injury.

  10. #10
    Wēk Ss
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    You're a big guy, for sure. I'm 5'11" 190-200lb, and my 1990 Rockhopper is still holding up. Since my back isn't bad as yours is, I do ride it more aggressively over rocks and roots. I'm pretty sure that Hardrock is cromoly steel. If aluminum, I would pass on it. Just check for cracks or anything that looks like the frame is compromised.

    If you're in good health, and riding aggressively, it probably won't hold. Since you aren't, and you're doing changes to ride in comfort bike format and riding mostly road, I think you will be OK. That's my opinion. Other folk have ridden similar bikes at heavier weight, on the road. You will need to pay attention to wheel truing.

    Another bike you can look at is the Giant Sedona ST. A steel comfort bike @ $330 retail.

  11. #11
    Willard
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    Thank you for the great advice guys! I craigslisted every bike in my range and found 8 or so. Assume they are all in the same condition, could you rank them for me? Im only listing the stock ones. Ok: a 2005 giant rincon, asking 225.00, an Iron Horse shimano 8-speed 1.3 warrior, asking 120.00, a specialized hardrock, asking 100.00, and finally a novara, asking 126.00. Thanks for helping! I did find a bike guy for questions and to help with upgrades also. Anyway thanks and keep up the great suggestions!
    Fuji Nevada 4.0 W/Surge hard forks. I sit very up-right due to my back injury.

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