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  1. #1
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    Frame Swap Question

    Would I run into any significant incompatability issues if I bought a 2008 Specialized Pitch Comp stock build and swapped in this frame? What parts may be incompatible?

    COMPONENTS of used bike that I am potentially buying
    Specialized Pitch Comp Spec
    Fork: RockShox Pike 327, 140mm travel
    Brakeset: Hayes Stroker Ryde, hydraulic, w/203mm rotor front/Hayes Stroker Ryde, hydraulic, w/185mm rotor rear brakes, Hayes Stroker Ryde levers
    Shift Levers: SRAM X-5 Trigger
    Front Derailleur: Shimano LX, E-type
    Rear Derailleur: SRAM X.7
    Crankset: Shimano M521, 22/32/44 teeth
    Bottom Bracket: Shimano M521
    Rear Cogs: 9-speed, 11 - 34 teeth
    Chain: KMC HG-73, 1/2 x 3/32"
    Seatpost: Two-bolt Alloy Micro-Adjust, 30.9mm diameter
    Saddle: Specialized Enduro, steel rails
    Handlebar: Specialized mid rise, butted, 31.8mm, 660mm wide
    Handlebar Stem: Specialized 3D forged alloy, 8 degree rise, 31.8mm 4 bolt clamp
    Headset: 1 1/8" threadless Threadless

    Hubs: Front: Specialized Stout Disc, 20mm thru axle, Rear: Shimano M475
    Rims: Alex RHD 26, 32-hole
    Tires: 26 x 2.30" S-Works Eskar Sport
    Geometry of used bike that I am potentially buying (Size: 19")
    Specialized Pitch Comp Geometry for size Large
    Seat Tube Length - Center to Top: 483mm
    Top Tube Length (Horizontal): 620mm
    Top Tube Length (Actual): 606mm
    Chainstay Length: 423mm
    Bottom Bracket Height - Low Setting: 356mm
    Seat Tube Angle (Actual) - Low Setting: 73
    Seat Tube Angle (Effective) - Low Setting: 76
    Head Tube Angle - Low Setting: 67
    Wheel Base: 1183mm
    Standover Height: 759mm
    Head Tube Height: 128mm
    Handlebar Width: 680mm
    Stem Length: 75mm
    Crank Length: 175mm
    Seatpost Length: 400mm
    Stack: 581mm
    Reach: 480mm
    Ground-Top: 937mm

    Details of new frame that I would like to swap in (Size: 15")
    FireEye Spitfire Details
    Material: 4130 cromoly (Hydro Formed down tube)
    Headtube size: fully integrated 1-1/8" x collared 120mm
    Seat post size: 27.2mm
    Seat clamp size: 29.8mm
    Front derailleur seat tube size: 28.6mm for top cable routing
    Tire size: 24" (disc brake compatible) 26" (cantilever and disc brake compatible)
    Dropouts: 10mm x 135mm
    Disc brake compatible: international standard disc brake mount
    Hanger type: horizontal (ASP compatible)
    Suggested fork travel: 100-130mm
    BB size: 68mm (standard MTB euro BB shell)
    Bonus Question:
    After getting some quotes for labor on how much it would be to swap frames ($150-$300) from LBS's around here, I'm contemplating on doing the job myself.

    I am in no rush to get this done, but at the same time, I don't want to spend more money on this than necessary. Am I in over my head and is the cost of tools that I would need already more than I am accounting for?
    Last edited by davidlax12; 01-06-2013 at 08:39 PM. Reason: Updated to include more information regarding bike components, geometry, and specification. Also, added follow-up question after getting frame swap pricing quotes.

  2. #2
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    Are you doing the swapping yourself or the shop. You have a large trail bike components and a smallish dirt jump frame, as for the parts I think you can just swap but with the DJ you may need to add a bash guard and flat pedals.

    Also, since you have to change out the cable and housing, you may need to trim the length of the disc brake hose as well. RS Pike fork is 140mm so I think you are fine there.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by mimi1885 View Post
    Are you doing the swapping yourself or the shop. You have a large trail bike components and a smallish dirt jump frame, as for the parts I think you can just swap but with the DJ you may need to add a bash guard and flat pedals.
    I'd be either going to a shop for the swap or going to be asking a friend for assistance who does all that stuff.

    The head tube length on the new frame is 120mm, and the head tube length of the used bike is 128mm. As long as 128mm > 120mm, I should be good in regards to the fork steerer tube right?

  4. #4
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    You should be fine just add spacer(s).


    Sent from my iPhone 4s using Tapatalk

  5. #5
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    Thanks for all the help so far Mimi. But...

    After getting some quotes on how much it would be to swap frames ($150-$300) from LBS's around here, I'm contemplating on doing the job myself.

    This is what I know already:
    Steerer Tube of Fork will require spacers or a trimming (Headtube - Old: 128mm, New: 120mm)
    New seatpost, seatpost clamp, front derailleur will probably be needed (Seatpost - Old: 30.9mm, New 27.2)

    I am in no rush to get this done, but at the same time, I don't want to spend more money on this than necessary. Am I in over my head and is the cost of tools that I would need already more than I am accounting for? I probably should be posting this in the beginners forum.
    Last edited by davidlax12; 01-06-2013 at 08:08 PM.

  6. #6
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    Wait, wait! you don't have the used bike already? Why are you buying a used bike so you can just swap parts over?

    If I'm in you position, I'd just start shopping for the parts needed for your DJ bike. I hear you on the cost at the LBS. You have edited out your original post so didn't you say you have a friend who has the tools and experience to help you?

    There's another way to go around it, you can just pay ala carte to have your lbs put on a few "difficult" parts for you like headset, and cranks if you don't have the proper tool, the rest of the parts should be simple enough for you to learn it yourself. All you really need is the hex wrenches or a Y(4-5-6), and may be a torx.

    Of course, this would be a lot easier to do if you have the bike stand. Check out some of the bike repair on youtube.

  7. #7
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    You might spend on proper facing and installing the most important bearings. Also some nice hands-on work with fitting the shock/cutting the steerer might not go amiss. The rest is just fiddling.
    I don't rattle.

  8. #8
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    I do have someone that can help me or do the whole thing himself, but he lives a bit ways away so I am considering other options. It was suggested that I should just buy a used bike for its parts, but now it seems that a frame swap is almost just as difficult as an entire bike build.

  9. #9
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    Nah! just buy the used parts or find good deals on the new parts and go from there.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by mimi1885 View Post
    Wait, wait! you don't have the used bike already? Why are you buying a used bike so you can just swap parts over?
    I'm able to get the used bike for $700 and it's in "like-new" condition with less than 10 rides by an older gentleman. I figured I can use the parts and sell the frame for $100-$200. Mimi, you make it seem like it's not such a good idea now

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by mimi1885 View Post
    Nah! just buy the used parts or find good deals on the new parts and go from there.
    Even at the current price?

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