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  1. #1601
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    Quote Originally Posted by Randpost View Post
    I'm already shopping around for a Reba or a Recon, but I still have a few question on what I exactly need for the Sawback. Straight tube, tapered, 1 1/8in, 8 in length, etc. I'm also wondering if I can fit a 120mm in place of the 100mm that ships with it. I guess all these questions will be answered when I actually receive the bike.

    As for the tires, I think you're right. I'll wait. Thank you for the suggestion. Hopefully they handle rocky dry hard pack fairly well.



    I looked on Amazon and I see a few different types of slime tubes.

    Are these the ones you were referring to? LINK
    I'm sure the Recon will give you a great ride. They're on eBay for $191 shipped (New). Don't forget a pump.

    Yep, those are the tubes...surprisingly, cheaper at a local FredMeyer/Kroger. They are heavy. A lot of guys on here go nutty about what their bike weighs...I just want a solid, dependable ride.

    I'm sure the stock tires will be fine on rocky hardpack. To tell you the truth, the stock tires were much thicker (sidewall especially) than the replacement Kendas I purchased just last month (I only ride 2-3 months out of the year). The stockers were fine on everything except sand...same with the Kendas...and every other tire I would imagine.

  2. #1602
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    I received my bike today. Everything on the spec sheet with Target was accurate except for the fork and tires. I did not get a dart 1, instead it was a XC-28 TK. Seems like these replaced the Dart-1. Either way I like the logo and look better on the XC-28. The tires aren't ITS Ninja's, they are Kenda Klaw XT's (wire bead). Tread pattern seems good so I'm okay with it and the tire is rated well. Thick side walls.

    Anyway, the bike came in perfect condition and everything assembled perfectly. I went ahead and setup my tires ghetto tubeless since I had some spare 20in tubes laying around. Worked like a charm with stock tires and rims. The Stan's sealant was priced well locally and on par with Amazon. Only thing I didn't like out of the box was the schrader valves, but that was easily rectified when going tubeless.

    Extremely happy with my purchase and I'm glad I didn't spend $1500 on a Trek at my LBS.

    Will post some pictures soon.


    EDIT: added picture

    Last edited by Randpost; 07-31-2013 at 06:12 PM.

  3. #1603
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    Hello,

    I just picked up one of these bikes. Shipping was fine, no damage at all. Assembly went fine as well.

    When I start slow, there is this whining/ squeeking noise coming from the rear. I'm not sure if it's the rear disc or the hub. It goes away once you start going, but at slow speeds it's very clear. Any ideas? Thanks.

  4. #1604
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pyrochaos View Post
    Hello,

    I just picked up one of these bikes. Shipping was fine, no damage at all. Assembly went fine as well.

    When I start slow, there is this whining/ squeeking noise coming from the rear. I'm not sure if it's the rear disc or the hub. It goes away once you start going, but at slow speeds it's very clear. Any ideas? Thanks.
    For me if its a disc its more of a scraping sound when new, not a screaming or whining sound that you might see once your rotors see a ton of use and get glazed.

    I had this same whine or screaming sound coming from my front hub. I narrowed down the culprit by loosening my quick release and spinning the wheel while the bike was upside down. This eliminated the sound. So the pressure from my quick release was related to the sound.

    I used some triflow teflon chain oil and oiled everything around the axle lightly including the exterior hub, the quick release, and the thru axle. All derailleur joints, chain, and levers need to be oiled out of the box also since lubrication is almost non-existant. This took care of the noise I was getting.

  5. #1605
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    Yep, one of the negatives of buying a Forge...you need to be willing to invest some time and a little brain usage (for the money saved) in basic maintenance like lubing various parts and making minor adjustments to the drive-train and brake system. In the modern-age of YouTube/video streaming sites, it's much easier for the DIY'er than ever before.

    In fact, I just did a pretty decent tune-up over the above mentioned along with truing my rear wheel with an $8 set of spoke wrenches from Amazon...vs paying a bike shop $50+

  6. #1606
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    Thanks for the replies. It seems like it is right around the rear hub. I greased it up a little and it seems to have fixed it mostly. I just didnt want to ride it if something could have been messed up.

  7. #1607
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    Is there a way to raise the handlebars on this bike? I've been doing a bunch of searching, but can't find anything on this except someone posting that they can't be raised.

    Thanks in advance,

    Mark

  8. #1608
    Ride the dream
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    Quote Originally Posted by dogmotor View Post
    Is there a way to raise the handlebars on this bike? I've been doing a bunch of searching, but can't find anything on this except someone posting that they can't be raised.

    Thanks in advance,

    Mark

    More generic reply, but yes, several.

    Firstly the free way, if possible - if there are spacers on top of the stem, you can move them underneath it. Just make sure you fit things back together properly if you do this yourself (the topcap pulls the stem down towards the crown, this pulls the spacers onto the headset, which preloads your headset bearings - it must be done right).

    There are 3 more options, all of which will cost you money.

    a) Get a stem with more rise to it. Sticking with the same length is advisable.
    b) Get bars with more rise to them.
    c) You can get steerer tube extenders - you'll get more height out of it, but it's not a great option (unless your riding is VERY mild I wouldn't touch it at all, personally). Ideally use a, b or both first.

  9. #1609
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    Does anyone know the steerer tube length needed to fit the 19" Forge?

    I'm looking at replacement forks and don't want to take mine apart until I have one lol.

  10. #1610
    svx
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    Good evening gents and ladies,

    I have an '07/'08 "17 5xx I am in the process of upgrading. I just upgraded the shifters and rear derailleur to SRAM X.0, front derailleur to XT, Brakes - Avid BB7 with Avid TI shifters, seat post (30.8) x 365mm to Thompson Elite, and of course the stem to a Thomson Elite x4 100mm x 25.4 x 5deg. I am 5'7" 174lb with a muscular frame and a 30" inseam. My most recent purchase was the stem. I went from a Specialized 5deg x 130mm (prior upgrade which felt like a reach) to the Thomson. The bars I use are System 2 Integrated 6061T6 bars 25.4mm x 565mm strait, slight-sweep (no-rise). Since the purchase I have been reading about the move to 31.8 bars which is making me question the recent stem purchase due to limitations on bar length due to smaller clamping diameter. I ride a 90mm stem x 420mm isozone carbon bars on my roads and have reservations about going wider on the MTB bars due to comfort, but that seems to be the general direction with MTB's. Since the move I am also considering a low-rise bar to lift me up a bit in the saddle.

    This leaves me with a few options and questions:

    *ditch the Thomson 25.4 stem and go with a 31.8 stem (prob Thomson) and pair it with a low-rise 31.8 wider bar (610-680mm).
    *keep the 25.4 Thomson (which I will say is pretty kick-ass) and buy a low-rise 610-680mm bar. Only issue I see here is that everything is Carbon in this space. On a road bike I would say hell yes (only use carbon on my roads). But, due to the torque and pull on the trail I am reluctant to go with it at 25.4mm. Thoughts?

    Preference is to stay with 25.4 given my size and more so shoulder width. 25.4 bars I am reviewing are Easton EC70 Monkey Lite's and eXotic Carbon Matrix Riser's. Any advice is appreciated.

    Lastly, couple of questions on the cranks and shock:

    *what would be a good 9-speed triple crank for this frame? Just looking to upgrade to something a little lighter.
    *what is the best shock for the bike at 26"? Dart 1 isn't exactly my preference.

    Keep in mind this will be for WI single track trails, so not a lot of downhill riding for now. More so to help get my son into MTB'ing.

    One more item- I have been able to upgrade all the above components for well under $500. This frame is rock solid, but if it looks like a full bike upgrade is necessary to achieve needed goals, then so be it and I will simply bite the bullet.

    I know that is a lot for my first post, but have been reading this forum for years and trust I can get some good reliable advice here. And yes, I did read through most of the threads here. Just simply looking for updated 06/04/2014 info. Any help is appreciated. TIA!

    -SVX

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