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  1. #301
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    the parts could rust, the frame won't obviously..

  2. #302
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    Quote Originally Posted by funks
    Now, I just have to get a more comfortable seat, a kick stand, and some street tires and it should be perfect.


    (J/K, take/post pics!!!)

  3. #303
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    I received my bike this afternoon came early.. thought it was going to be here on the 15th The box was in great condition only one very small puncture.

    I'll post up pictures in a bit

  4. #304
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    Here are the pics of the Forge Sawback 5xx 19'' I got delivered today ... enjoy

    box in good condition - w00t

    a little punture not too bad, no damage to bike

    self explanatory

    full view

    Forge logo graphic

    BB

    model 5xx graphic

    head tube

    front emblem

    deore shifters

    hrmm how does this look?

    matches a bit

    Hayes MX2 brakes

    Forge brand appreciation (You guys make killer bikes for the money!)

    Truvativ cranks

    homemade chainstay protector, pipe insulator (don't worry, took off the little black plastic lol)

    another full view pic

    oh yeah so I was wondering what the stuff in the rockshox bag was and also those black zip ties that were in the braking system box (I think) is it so the cable does not rub? if so any pics of application?

    I can't wait to ride this tommorow. It was raining and dark by the time I finished.

    Any questions about the bike just ask.

  5. #305
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    bike's lookin good!

  6. #306
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    yea some of the packaging is confusing as there are brake zip ties and other things in the rockshox bag.

    I have it put together except the completed front brake assembly and the fork seems to move so I must have missed a tightening screw

  7. #307
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    Did you try tightening the compression bolt on the top cap? (on top of stem) *refer to page 19 of the Forge manual*

    as for the brakes, maybe you forgot to tighten the lower bolt (theres 2) on the post mount? Section C, #3 of the Hayes brake installation guide

  8. #308
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jiffycake
    Did you try tightening the compression bolt on the top cap? (on top of stem) *refer to page 19 of the Forge manual*

    as for the brakes, maybe you forgot to tighten the lower bolt (theres 2) on the post mount? Section C, #3 of the Hayes brake installation guide
    yea, the compression bolt is tight, as for the brakes I just havent gotten to them yet.

    I felt like an idiot when I figured out you have to remove the hayes mounting bracket as you dont need it

  9. #309
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    Quote Originally Posted by JRSCCivic98


    (J/K, take/post pics!!!)





  10. #310
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    so it was the stem clamp bolts that werent tight enough, now on to complete the front brake system

  11. #311
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    Ahh kickstand, kill me now!

  12. #312
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    Quote Originally Posted by redvving19
    yea, the compression bolt is tight, as for the brakes I just havent gotten to them yet.

    I felt like an idiot when I figured out you have to remove the hayes mounting bracket as you dont need it
    haha it was coming out perpendicular to the disk right? Yeah some forks need that adapter, other don't like the Dart

  13. #313
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    Got my forge this morning. I won this off ebay http://cgi.ebay.com/Mens-Forge-Sawba...QQcmdZViewItem
    $74.00 $100 after shipping. Decided to take a chance since the auction states it could have missing, broke parts. Came to find out that everything was fine and it was still wrapped up with no signs of assembly. the only problem was in shipping the hub rubbed the bike pretty bad in one spot but i can deal with that esp. for the price.

  14. #314
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    wow great deal man im pissed lol jk

  15. #315
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    wow 100 dollars...

  16. #316
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    Quote Originally Posted by coryip
    Got my forge this morning. I won this off ebay http://cgi.ebay.com/Mens-Forge-Sawba...QQcmdZViewItem
    $74.00 $100 after shipping. Decided to take a chance since the auction states it could have missing, broke parts. Came to find out that everything was fine and it was still wrapped up with no signs of assembly. the only problem was in shipping the hub rubbed the bike pretty bad in one spot but i can deal with that esp. for the price.
    Thats interesting..... does Target sell returns off to another party?

  17. #317
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    haha imagine if thats one of jleecongs bikes

  18. #318
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    Quote Originally Posted by funks
    Forge Sawback 5xx is T3h F@s+3R

  19. #319
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    Jiffy thanks for posting the blue, looks sweet! So when are you introducing it to dirt? Keep us posted.

  20. #320
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    Quote Originally Posted by JRSCCivic98
    Forge Sawback 5xx is T3h F@s+3R
    Reasonably priced + high performance = Best bang for the buck!

  21. #321
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jiffycake
    haha imagine if thats one of jleecongs bikes
    I do repack them nicely using large zip ties and try to use all original packaging.

    I did notice the handle bar ends have been cut off and the plugs missing. Just because of that I would guess that bike could easily be one of mine. Also the reflectors have been put back on as they are not in the "factory" position.

    Good deal on the bike!!

  22. #322
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    The serial number could easily tell you.

  23. #323
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    Quote Originally Posted by JRSCCivic98
    The serial number could easily tell you.
    I didn't write down my serial numbers... I probably have pictures of the last 2 serial numbers, but I don't think they would have made it back out of the system yet.

  24. #324
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    how else could i tell, yes the grip ends are came cut off.

  25. #325
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    what a deal!?

    uh..wow!? and to think that for my first post, I was gonna write out a long post about which bike I should buy in the $500-$600 range...GT avalanche 2.0, k2 zed 3.0.....gary fisher wahoo disc.....

    Now all i need to ask is what size 5xx should I get?? (oh, by the way, i'm a reborn newbie...haven't biked in almost 10 years)...so if anyone could give me some insight, that'd be great...

    I'm 5'11" (6'3" with the afro)
    220 pounds....hoping to get that down a bit
    and about a 32" inseam...maybe more

    some posts in this thread say the 19" is the way to go, but my coworkers say the 17"....I know i can return it if its the wrong fit, but it'd be great if I got it right the first go around

    Thanks in advance for any help!
    Don

  26. #326
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    Quote Originally Posted by coryip
    how else could i tell, yes the grip ends are came cut off.
    Take some more pictures of the bike...

    Stem area (headset cap), rear section, and look for a slightly bent spoke in the front (I corrected it the best I could). If it is/was my first bike then you got an AWSOME deal.

  27. #327
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    The front disk was not installed and the screws still had loctite on them and looked as if they had never been installed. the front brake cable was never trimmed. Screws for the stem holding the bar was smooth. No bent spokes, still had plastic in the front hub that i had to push out. It looks as if both of your bikes had been assembled and i am about 90% sure this one had not. I think it probably was returned because the hub scratched the frame.

  28. #328
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    Quote Originally Posted by coryip
    The front disk was not installed and the screws still had loctite on them and looked as if they had never been installed. the front brake cable was never trimmed. Screws for the stem holding the bar was smooth. No bent spokes, still had plastic in the front hub that i had to push out. It looks as if both of your bikes had been assembled and i am about 90% sure this one had not. I think it probably was returned because the hub scratched the frame.
    You make me think it's mine even more...

    I return the bikes as close as I can to how I received them. The loctite is still present when you remove the screws. I never trimmed the front cable on any of my bikes (Is the cap on the rear brake cable?). The screws should have smoothed out after the first install. That plastic in the front hub... I had the same thing happen so I couldn't put a cap back on the wheel when I sent it back as it was destroyed. You would have to look at the picture of my bent spoke to know where to look as I did bend it pretty strait before returning it.

    I have my last bike going back tomorrow, so I'll take some pics of what they look like when I send them back. (It's sealed but I just can't resist)

    If it has a Bontrager cap then I would put money on it being my bike. Also search the box and you may be able to find an old UPS label or something.

    * EDIT *
    Here is a pic of the Bontrager cap
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by jleecong; 06-14-2007 at 10:04 AM.

  29. #329
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    that looks like you took a picture of my bike, same little scratches and yes the same cap. i have yet to find the bent spoke. anything else to confirm. This is pretty funny if it was your bike. What needs to be fixed on this thing. I was planning on taking it to a local shop just to get the gears set perfect. I am getting a little drag on the front brakes, are both pads adjustable.

  30. #330
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    Quote Originally Posted by coryip
    that looks like you took a picture of my bike, same little scratches and yes the same cap. i have yet to find the bent spoke. anything else to confirm. This is pretty funny if it was your bike. What needs to be fixed on this thing. I was planning on taking it to a local shop just to get the gears set perfect. I am getting a little drag on the front brakes, are both pads adjustable.
    There were 0 problems with the bike (Minus cosmetic stuff and the bent spoke, that I straitened and retightened), but everything will need to be readjusted. I did take it out on the trails with no problems.

    The only reason it was returned was because of the bent spoke. I wish I had never returned it. In my opinion you got a GREAT deal!

  31. #331
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    Quote Originally Posted by TreesHitMe
    uh..wow!? and to think that for my first post, I was gonna write out a long post about which bike I should buy in the $500-$600 range...GT avalanche 2.0, k2 zed 3.0.....gary fisher wahoo disc.....

    Now all i need to ask is what size 5xx should I get?? (oh, by the way, i'm a reborn newbie...haven't biked in almost 10 years)...so if anyone could give me some insight, that'd be great...

    I'm 5'11" (6'3" with the afro)
    220 pounds....hoping to get that down a bit
    and about a 32" inseam...maybe more

    some posts in this thread say the 19" is the way to go, but my coworkers say the 17"....I know i can return it if its the wrong fit, but it'd be great if I got it right the first go around

    Thanks in advance for any help!
    Don
    19" hands down. I am alittle shorter and the 19" fits me well.

    Just think of the money your saving! Get some bar ends, a saddle bag, some tools, a water bottle and cage, then ride!!! You'll still be under budget!

  32. #332
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    return some more bikes!!!

  33. #333
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    Quote Originally Posted by taikuodo
    return some more bikes!!!
    haha

    So today I went on my maiden voyage with the new bike. I adjusted the gears beforehand.. they shifted like butter it was so damn nice. The fork definitely gets the job done. I recommend that you get new tires for the bike. The kenda tires slide out easily on every surface IMO. They suck on dirt the most.. lol. very easy to fix that small detail though.
    Bottom line is that the bike is a great buy for the stuff your getting and it also rides pretty good off road as well as on road. The only thing besides the tires is the fork.. It would have been awesome if it had the lockout feature of the Dart II but thats kinda stretching it. (its $340 for a bike thats $600+ in components! lol

    I swapped out the handlebars after my ride for the world force bar I posted up earlier, actually matches pretty well with the navy blue of the top tube. I lost my pipe insulator chain stay guard on the ride I meant to zip tie it before the ride.. its a really cheap piece but it still kinda sucks.

    I'm going to look on the trail tomorrow when I go ride

  34. #334
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    I can't believe this wasn't asked yet, but I want to know where/who on eBay you bought the bike from? I'm just currious really... nothing more.

  35. #335
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    found this in 30 seconds searching: forge bikes

    http://cgi.ebay.com/Forge-M-Street-B...QQcmdZViewItem

  36. #336
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    look in my 1st post, i put the link.

  37. #337
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    So I just went on my maiden voyage on my bike (.5 miles) and it shifts well out of the box and it took a couple of stops to find the right seat height. The handle bars felt low I'm not sure if thats because I've been riding dirt bikes forever.

    The front brake was a pain in the ass because it would never center property and always lean on the same pad

  38. #338
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    Just had my own maiden voyage yesterday. There were three small issues that I'd appreciate any of you weighing in on:

    1. The front derailleur was reluctant to shift up from 1 to 2. Just a matter of adjustment?

    2. The fork creaks like an old bedspring.

    3. There is a "pulse," or thump, or slight knocking sound that's also noticeable through the pedals, when making a firm crankstroke. Can't tell if it originates from the BB or points behind. Any ideas?

    Otherwise the bike looks and feels great. Assembly was straightforward, and the 17" is perfect for my 5'9 1/2 body.

  39. #339
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tags99
    2. The fork creaks like an old bedspring.

    3. There is a "pulse," or thump, or slight knocking sound that's also noticeable through the pedals, when making a firm crankstroke. Can't tell if it originates from the BB or points behind. Any ideas?
    Mine has the same creaking when slightly moving the handlebar - I don't believe it's the fork that's creaking, but the disc brake (making slight contact with the pad and creaking). At least when I tried tracing the noise, it sounded like it's coming from the disc brake. Doesn't make the noise when you are actually riding the bike, only when you turn it slight while the bike is stationary.

    In regards to #3, I feel something similar (kinda like a gritty feeling) but only when i'm in the front largest diameter gear, and the rear at the third step from the smallest gear. It's only that combo that has that gritty feeling, all the other gear combo's are great. I believe it just needs a little bit more break-in - lol.

    Great bike and I'm perfectly happy with it.. I finally finished converting it to a commuter bike and it's now much more comfortable (the tires, the new saddle, and the handlebar made the biggest difference).

    Did the following

    Replaced the tires w/ 26" x 1.5" street tires (40$)
    Presta Inner Tubes - 26" x 1.5" (15$)
    Replaced the Saddle w/ San Marco Travel Deluxe Seat (25$)
    Replaced the Handlebar w/ a Giant 4" Riser (10$)
    Added Cateye EL510 Headlight (23$)
    Added a Greenfield KS2 Kickstand (10$)
    Added a Seat Post Rack (20$)..

    Will post a pic tommorow.

  40. #340
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    I believe the chain may be rubbing the front derailler.

  41. #341
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    Mine has the same creaking when slightly moving the handlebar - I don't believe it's the fork that's creaking, but the disc brake (making slight contact with the pad and creaking).

    It's a different creak, then -- mine is definitely the fork. Every time you compress it, whether riding or stationary. I've never experienced that before. Will the fork settle in, or does it need some kind of maintenance or repair?

  42. #342
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    Quote Originally Posted by taikuodo
    I believe the chain may be rubbing the front derailler.
    It was on mine but I did a quick adjustment and got it working, you just cant have it on the extreme left and right.. for example small cog up front, small cog out back or big cog in front big cog out back usually rubs a little bit

  43. #343
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tags99
    Mine has the same creaking when slightly moving the handlebar - I don't believe it's the fork that's creaking, but the disc brake (making slight contact with the pad and creaking).

    It's a different creak, then -- mine is definitely the fork. Every time you compress it, whether riding or stationary. I've never experienced that before. Will the fork settle in, or does it need some kind of maintenance or repair?
    Tighten the fork up a turn or two. It's supposed to be adjusted to match your weight. The fork should not compress unless you actually subject it to some force. If you're riding the bike and you put your upper body weight on the front it should not compress. It should compress only when you pump down on the handlebars when in this position. If it compresses it's not tight enough. Turn up the tention on it.

  44. #344
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    Quote Originally Posted by coryip
    look in my 1st post, i put the link.
    You bought it from Genco's eBay store. Apperently Genco is a liquidation company. I'll bet Target just uses them to liquidate their damanged goods. Oh well, you got a great deal.... besides, when you bust your ass the first time on the bike you won't be worried about that first scratch.

  45. #345
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    Quote Originally Posted by JRSCCivic98
    Tighten the fork up a turn or two. It's supposed to be adjusted to match your weight. The fork should not compress unless you actually subject it to some force. If you're riding the bike and you put your upper body weight on the front it should not compress. It should compress only when you pump down on the handlebars when in this position. If it compresses it's not tight enough. Turn up the tension on it.

    Yeah, I actually turned it up some when I first assembled it. From riding it I definitely don't think it's too soft -- it doesn't plunge under hard braking, etc. Pumping down on the handlebars produces some compression and nice firm rebound -- but also a really annoying creak.

    An another front: I adjusted the derailleurs last night, and in the process discovered that the rear disc was warped and was binding lightly on the pad. I fiddled with the disc mounting bolts and then with the cable tension, helping the problem somewhat but not solving it completely. From what I read, this seems to be a fairly common problem. Any other solutions, or will the pad eventually just wear enough that it doesn't bind anymore?

  46. #346
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    Quote Originally Posted by JRSCCivic98
    Tighten the fork up a turn or two. It's supposed to be adjusted to match your weight. The fork should not compress unless you actually subject it to some force. If you're riding the bike and you put your upper body weight on the front it should not compress. It should compress only when you pump down on the handlebars when in this position. If it compresses it's not tight enough. Turn up the tention on it.
    WRONG WRONG WRONG!!!!!
    Forks are designed to compress when sitting on the bike at rate of appox 25% of it travel for xc, and higher for dh but this isnt a dh fork so it isn't applicable.
    If you get on a bike and the fork doesn't move at all unless you hit a bump, then might as well get a rigid bike. Wow I wouldn't want you to sell me a bike at a bike shop with that info...that is absolutely false info...the fork on that bike is a tried and true pogo stick, I will not feel plush no matter what you do.It has springs and elastomers. Get a fork that has actual dampening system in it and actual oil. The dart 3 is a decent fork( I think this bike currently sports the dart 1??)

  47. #347
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    Quote Originally Posted by jleecong
    Version 1
    yeah but for the price who cares about paint... if it was a 1900 doallr bike then thats different.
    it will get scratched up anyway if ridden the way it is meant to be.
    as far as pools on brake mounts, sand it off carefully until you hit bare aluminium and then should have a flush fit for brakes.

  48. #348
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    Jiffy I like what you did, I was thinking of some custom changes. Can you post some pics for me. Please!! My tires work well, I don't see much difference from my previous model that had the IRC. What tires are you riding with now? Thanks.

  49. #349
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    Quote Originally Posted by bikefun
    Jiffy I like what you did, I was thinking of some custom changes. Can you post some pics for me. Please!! My tires work well, I don't see much difference from my previous model that had the IRC. What tires are you riding with now? Thanks.
    I didn't get the new tires yet but i'm going to order some soon. as for the handlebars.. ill post up pics later today, im off to my grandma's house for a fathers day GTG
    get to the choppa!!!

  50. #350
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    Quote Originally Posted by wickerman1
    WRONG WRONG WRONG!!!!!
    Forks are designed to compress when sitting on the bike at rate of appox 25% of it travel for xc, and higher for dh but this isnt a dh fork so it isn't applicable.
    If you get on a bike and the fork doesn't move at all unless you hit a bump, then might as well get a rigid bike. Wow I wouldn't want you to sell me a bike at a bike shop with that info...that is absolutely false info...the fork on that bike is a tried and true pogo stick, I will not feel plush no matter what you do.It has springs and elastomers. Get a fork that has actual dampening system in it and actual oil. The dart 3 is a decent fork( I think this bike currently sports the dart 1??)
    If it was full suspension then yes, the back should compress some. I don't belive the front should compress at all from just sitting on a HARDTAIL bike. The geometry of the bike's stance get compromized by this. I don't know about you, but I don't want to ride down the trail/street and have my front sag down because it's too soft. The front fork on a HARDTAIL should work when it needs to work. (Hitting bumps or taking up forces of jumps, whatever...) It's my personal preference and that's that. Whatever you want to do is your business, but don't get all "I know my isht" and open your mouth because you'd be WRONG WRONG WRONG.

  51. #351
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tags99
    An another front: I adjusted the derailleurs last night, and in the process discovered that the rear disc was warped and was binding lightly on the pad. I fiddled with the disc mounting bolts and then with the cable tension, helping the problem somewhat but not solving it completely. From what I read, this seems to be a fairly common problem. Any other solutions, or will the pad eventually just wear enough that it doesn't bind anymore?
    The calipers are not supposed to be mounted and tighted down without doing one of the two following calibrations.

    1) Loosen the bolts that hold it to the frame and compress the brake handle. With that compressed tighten the bolts. This centers the caliper onto the disk and when you release there should be enough room between both sides of the disk and pad so that it doesn't rub. However, I found this doesn't work too well on these brakes... it could because the disk can be easily twisted latteraly and it doesn't properly center the caliper then compressed. I used option 2 myself.

    2) Line up the caliper and make sure there's enough space between both sides of the disk and pads on the calier. You can use a feeler guage to do this, but eyeballing it is easier and less of a hassle. There could very well be 1mm or less of space between this so make sure you have good vision. I used this process and don't have any rubbing at all.

  52. #352
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    Quote Originally Posted by JRSCCivic98
    If it was full suspension then yes, the back should compress some. I don't belive the front should compress at all from just sitting on a HARDTAIL bike. The geometry of the bike's stance get compromized by this. I don't know about you, but I don't want to ride down the trail/street and have my front sag down because it's too soft. The front fork on a HARDTAIL should work when it needs to work. (Hitting bumps or taking up forces of jumps, whatever...) It's my personal preference and that's that. Whatever you want to do is your business, but don't get all "I know my isht" and open your mouth because you'd be WRONG WRONG WRONG.
    actually he's right. you should have 20-25% compression when seated. that's called preload. its there so that if you go over a dip the fork will actually push the wheel down into it and thereby maintain better traction. otherwise your wheel is skipping over any little dips at speed and you are losing valuable traction. this is even more true for hardtails as they lose traction much more easily than fs bikes. i ride hardtails pretty much exclusively and can say from experience that a fork thats too stiff is almost as bad as one thats too plush when you are in the woods. however it should be noted that commuting on the street is entirely different. thats why i ride my fork cranked down to minimum travel and locked out with the floodgate at a medium blow-off if i'm commuting on my mountain bike

  53. #353
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    yup cdburch and wickerman are right.. lol...

  54. #354
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    If Civic likes his forks stiff then let him be. But of course it should be known he's completely, absolutely, wrong.

  55. #355
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    to change the topic, anybody know what type drive the bottom bracket is? Square taper? Octalink? Isis?

    Also, anybody know what the specs are on the bottom bracket?
    Last edited by funks; 06-17-2007 at 10:38 PM.

  56. #356
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    Quote Originally Posted by JRSCCivic98
    If it was full suspension then yes, the back should compress some. I don't belive the front should compress at all from just sitting on a HARDTAIL bike. The geometry of the bike's stance get compromized by this. I don't know about you, but I don't want to ride down the trail/street and have my front sag down because it's too soft. The front fork on a HARDTAIL should work when it needs to work. (Hitting bumps or taking up forces of jumps, whatever...) It's my personal preference and that's that. Whatever you want to do is your business, but don't get all "I know my isht" and open your mouth because you'd be WRONG WRONG WRONG.
    LOL niiiiice.... I get my info from peple who race lol

  57. #357
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    5-11, 176, 33" inseam on my pants.......would you recommend the 19?

    Also, would you guys consider buying it off of amazon.com?

    http://www.amazon.com/Men%2527s-Forg...2184519&sr=8-3

    same price and all, I just like amazon a lot.

  58. #358
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    Ups

    While this isn't directly related here is a new server we just received from UPS. Who would think a $15k server was sitting in that box...

    I won't even talk about how they have failed twice now to come and pickup my old bike even though I scheduled a pickup.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  59. #359
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    SAMWISE - Three things:
    #1 - It seems you'd still be buying it thru Target...thru Amazon....no biggie really, just seems like you may be adding an extra step
    #2 - There's a coupon code for 10% off for Target online purchases....browse this / theother 5xx threads to find it -I forget, but I think it's on or around page 12 or 13 of this thread. Also, sign up @ www.fatwallet.com (it's free) and you get a 4.4% cash back return on your target purchase when going thru their site (I found out about this after I ordered mine, so I can't really give you any more info on that)...after the code and cash back, you'd be out $325 i think (shipping and tax INCLUDED)... ps....you might just as easily find and use codes for amazon too....
    #3 - I'm 5'-11", 32-33 inseam and I got the 19" based on answers I got to the same question.....(but i'm pushing 220lbs....ok, 225, but it's just because I had a fun weekend)

  60. #360
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    ^ I swear theres a bunch of gorillas in the UPS facilities by you

    Anyways I went out on a solo ride today.. took some pics..
    kept on practicing hopping logs I think I'm getting the hang of it

    those reflectors messed up the shot.. but many sources have told me if I take them off my wheels will be imbalanced.. can anyone verify this?






    picture looking across the Hudson River ~20 miles from NYC

    zoomed in all the way.. btw theres 2 miles between me and the other side of the river

    In conclusion bike rode very well off road IMO. I'm glad that I wrapped my chainstay in tape because there were 3-4 times where the dérailleur hit pretty hard
    get to the choppa!!!

  61. #361
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    Good lord jleecong!!!! Where do you live man? If you're at all concerned about UPSs work in your area I would print out all the pictures you have and take them to your local UPS location and file complaints against the drivers and the loaders in the bays. Speak only to supervisors and then ask them for the names and contact for their supervisors. That kind of service is rediculous. I can't belive you're even signing to accept these packages man. You have serious faith in the foam below the cartboard. If it was me I'd be chewing these UPS monkeys on the spot. That's just BS man. Seriously, it's time for someone to get fired!

  62. #362
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    I ran my 19" through its paces this weekend, and except for 1 issue, it was awesome! We rode Hunters Creek south of Buffalo on Fathers Day, 2 seasoned and well equipped guys, my co-worker on his older Specialized, and myself on the 5xx. The bike performed flawlessly, and handled the trails perfectly, and made me look good

    The only problem was a 1 in a million shot to the rear derailleur that broke the hanger..... I was crossing some flat rocks and one flipped up and nailed the derailleur... Soooo I had to pull apart the cage, and hang the chain and derailleur from the frame and walk/coast the bike out..... Its fixed now though.

    Long story short, Forge 5xx was awsome on some premier trails, and carry a spare derailleur hanger (hint: its a '#21', same as a Giant XTC, among others).

  63. #363
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    Quote Originally Posted by funks
    to change the topic, anybody know what type drive the bottom bracket is? Square taper? Octalink? Isis?
    Additionally, anybody know the specs for the headset? Is it the 1-1/8 inch, standard press-in type?

    As for the bottom backet, is the shell width 68mm? Is it also english threaded?

  64. #364
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    whoever told you that bit about the reflectors is insane. remove them asap unless you plan on doing mostly commuting on your bike.

  65. #365
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    bb is english, either 68 or 65mm i cant remember at the moment. the headset is 11/8 integrated (the races are actually machined into the headtube itself instead of being pressed in after manufacture)

  66. #366
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    ^ yeah your right, a friend told me a way to prove they were pointless: just spun the wheel a few times and watch the reflector come out on the bottom since in most cases it is heavier than the valve stem
    get to the choppa!!!

  67. #367
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    Hey all, I was wondering if any Clydes can chime in on the 19".
    I'm 6'2" 220 with a 33" inseam, and not sure if I am beyond the fit of the Forge.
    The price/component ratio looks great, but I don't want to look like a clown on a minibike

  68. #368
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    concerning UPS, do they require a sig for the bike, or do they just drop it on my doorstep where it will have 7.5 hours to get stolen?
    edit: sorry...this shouldn've have neccessarily been a reply to mikecito's post....tho while I'm only 5'-11", I AM 220lbs....so we gots that in common?

  69. #369
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mikecito
    Hey all, I was wondering if any Clydes can chime in on the 19".
    I'm 6'2" 220 with a 33" inseam, and not sure if I am beyond the fit of the Forge.
    The price/component ratio looks great, but I don't want to look like a clown on a minibike
    you might be alittle tall.... your weight isn't an issue.

  70. #370
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    Quote Originally Posted by JRSCCivic98
    The calipers are not supposed to be mounted and tighted down without doing one of the two following calibrations.
    Well, the rear came pre-mounted of course. After I noticed it binding I loosened the caliper and spent a good deal of time trying to eyeball it as in your method #2. Couldn't get it perfect -- there's a good bit of warpage in the rotor. I got it pretty close but it was driving me nuts so I ended up letting a little cable out too. Now there's no more binding, but there's more lever travel than I'd like. After the cable stretches some, I'll have to re-adjust it anyway, I guess.

    (dumb headset comment deleted)

    TMA
    Last edited by Tags99; 06-19-2007 at 07:29 PM.

  71. #371
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    Not a loose headset, but a loose stem cap because you have to flip the stem rightside up during the build. It's upside down in the box to clear the folds when it's boxed.

  72. #372
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    Quote Originally Posted by JRSCCivic98
    Not a loose headset, but a loose stem cap because you have to flip the stem rightside up during the build. It's upside down in the box to clear the folds when it's boxed.
    No, I had flipped it (thanks to this forum for the tip). But the problem was still my bad -- I didn't sufficiently sock down the compression bolt before tightening the stem clamp bolts. So there was a little play at the bottom that got worse when I went for a bumpy ride. All fixed now, thanks.

  73. #373
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    Buffalo NY, thats where i live, is Hunters creek a good trail.

  74. #374
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    For those who have put a 5xx together

    Mine's waiting on my doorstep (well, it was...hopefully it still is)....will i need any 'out-of-the-ordinary' tools to assemble it? I read some discussion about a torque wrench - to torque or not to torque basically....either way, I don't have one and don't care to get one if it's not neccessary, but i tend to kill screws and bolts and would rather not have to deal with that either....

    sooo anything I should know first?
    edit: I obviously have no idea how this forums works - where to reply and what not, so excuse me for bombing this thread with randomly located posts

  75. #375
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    A good tip is to: 1) loosen a little 2) rock a few times 3) than tighten.

    Mikecito - Go with the 19"!!! I have this, works great for me.

    Has anyone bought the Forge Road Bike? It received a good review on road bike review. If so, please let me know. Late, going for a ride.

  76. #376
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    So I figured out why my rear disk was rubbing so badly
    RearBrake01m.jpg

    I guess I probably need to call forge about getting it replaced

  77. #377
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    How it sits crooked on the frame

    RearBrake02m2.jpg

  78. #378
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    My 19" came in today, I got it assembled fairly easily, but I'm having endless problems with the rear derailleur. It won't shift off of the smallest gear. I've tried adjust it per the manual and from what I read online but it seems to be doing nothing when shifting. The front derailleur seems to work okay, I have no clue on the rear though, I'll fiddle with it a bit tomorrow and then either take it to a bike shop if it's not too expensive, or return it. There does seem to be a lot more slack on the cable from when I started, but no clue from where it's coming from as I don't know how all the parts are supposed to align in back (which angle the deraileur should be at and the relation to the tensioner, etc.) I was gonna attach a picture, but the camera is nowhere to be found.

  79. #379
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  80. #380
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    Quote Originally Posted by cdburch
    bb is english, either 68 or 65mm i cant remember at the moment. the headset is 11/8 integrated (the races are actually machined into the headtube itself instead of being pressed in after manufacture)
    Thanks for the reply.

    It seems like it's using an Aheadset VP A42E (made by Cane Creek - Integrated headset)..

    Looking at JensonUSA.com, saw this Cane Creek IS-2 Tall Headset

    Would this fit? The current setup looks like it's using a 1" plastic spacer, considering the IS-2 (tall) has an upper stack height of around 16mm (around an inch), would it mean that i'll end up using a shorter spacer? (dunno what the upper stack height of the VP A42E is)..

  81. #381
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    how long does it usually take for forge to call back?

    I'm probably just being impatient but I missed not biking to work today and having to drive

  82. #382
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    mike called me back a couple of hours after I left a message
    get to the choppa!!!

  83. #383
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jiffycake
    mike called me back a couple of hours after I left a message
    Yeah mike called me back and they are sending out a new bracket tommorrow. I am going to email him the pictures tonight as well as the serial from the bike

    So far very happy with their customer care, even offered to have a bike shop take a look at it though I dont think thats needed at this point

  84. #384
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    I got my Sawback 5xx 19" last night & everything went together easily. I adjusted the bars, seat, levers, etc. the way I like, then rode it around the driveway for a little while since I didn't have an adapter for the presta valves to air up the tires more. It seems to shift perfectly right out of the box. All I had to do was tighten up the rear brake cable a little. I was happy to find that the stem bolts were greased, and the brake bolts were already treated with thread lock. I looked everything over closely. These bikes are definitely not thrown together. I got the presta valve adapter today, so i'm taking it for a ride tonight. Nice bike. I'm glad I bought it.

  85. #385
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    Quote Originally Posted by redvving19
    So I figured out why my rear disk was rubbing so badly

    I guess I probably need to call forge about getting it replaced
    Doesn't the front one, that isn't used, work?

  86. #386
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    Quote Originally Posted by jeepinmike
    Doesn't the front one, that isn't used, work?
    That's what I was going to say. The front caliper comes with one that doesn't get used because you mount the front caliper directly to the fork provided mount-points.

  87. #387
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    Quote Originally Posted by jeepinmike
    Doesn't the front one, that isn't used, work?
    That was my first thought, but the pieces are actually different

  88. #388
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    UPS Sucks

    I just received my bike, and it's beat up in a few spots. I actually ordered the bike on June 6th, and received my first bike on June 15th. The bike was in good shape, but they sent me a girls bike. Today I received the 5xx.

    Here's the box:


    Here's a couple gouges underneath the fork:


    Here's a gouge on the stem:


    Here's a gouge on the handlebars:


    None of the problems are actually visible with the bike put togethter, so as long as everyting is in perfect mechanical shape I'll probably just keep this bike.
    Last edited by sldonmtns; 06-22-2007 at 06:05 PM.

  89. #389
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    I guess I got lucky or something, nothing was wrong with my bike and I did a ~30 minute inspection lol.
    get to the choppa!!!

  90. #390
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    If this kind of damage is because of shipping (hard to say really) I think Forge's next BIG step should be BETTER boxes. I guess I should be thankful that my bike was ok.

    BTW, sldonmtns, is the back dropout area painted black on yours or not?

  91. #391
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    whats strange is the hole in the same place on all these boxes.

    I had a hole by the cassette as well

  92. #392
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    Quote Originally Posted by JRSCCivic98
    BTW, sldonmtns, is the back dropout area painted black on yours or not?
    Nope it wasn't painted.

  93. #393
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    rode my 19" 5xx in a charity ride this weekend. 33 miles, 2:23 ridetime, 15 mph average. The average is a bit understated due to the stops, I was keeping at least a 17-20mph pace most of the time.

    The bike rode great. I was very comfortable, and it rode wonderfully. I wasn't sore, or achey at all. Most people thought it would be miserable for me to ride that distance on a MTB with knobbies. It was an awesome ride!

  94. #394
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    Not me. Three Forge's, three perfect bikes! I plan on some heavy off road riding this week, more detials to follow. JRS have you been off road?

  95. #395
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    Is it just me, or do the handlebars look more like they're meant for a hybrid than a mountain bike?

  96. #396
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    It is you. They are definitely mountain handlebars, a nice alloy so it’s strong and light.

  97. #397
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    So I received the new adapter today and guess what, same issue the frame doesnt match the adapter causing the screw to go in crooked and not allowing the disk brake to sit properly.

    My guess is that the bike is going back. That will be 4 weeks with only 3 days of riding, though forge's support has been great

  98. #398
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    Hey guys,


    New to the forum. I jumped on the bandwagon and purchased a Forge a week ago. Received it yesterday. It's been quite some time since I got myself on a bike and decided recently to go ahead and get back into it. Fast foward...well, to my surprise, my Forge 17" came absolutely flawless from UPS. I was expecting it to come beat up and battered to death, but nope! I was very happy. Got it assembled pretty quickly (thanks for the tips on setting it up guys) jumped on the bike and went riding for a few hours. I am absolutely in love with this thing! It feels so light. Smooth as silk and not one squeek (except when the brakes are applied, which I'm quite used to considering my Subaru STi makes squeeking noises when I brake ). I'll be hitting some trails pretty soon here and we'll see how it holds up. It held up nicely after putting all the abuse I did on it yesterday. I can't complain. Today after work, I'll just adjust it to my specs, then hopefully have it tuned soon.


    Kind Regards,
    Ryan

  99. #399
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    its official the bike is being picked up by ups.....so for those that have returned and got a replacement bike how long does the replacement bike take to show up?

  100. #400
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    I took a week for me to receive my replacement.

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