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  1. #51
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    Quote Originally Posted by ChapmanMTB27
    Thank you for the pictures jleecong! I am sorry if this has already been covered but can someone tell me everything they had to assemble? From jleecong's pictures it looks like almost everything was already on it.
    If memory is working you need to install the following..

    Flip Stem, Install Seat, Install Pedals, Mount Handle Bars.
    Mount disk to front wheel, insert skewer, mount front wheel, mount disk brake, wire disk brake.
    Adjust, Adjust, Adjust.

  2. #52
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    Quote Originally Posted by ChapmanMTB27
    Another question, does anyone have Forge's email? I keep trying to call them with no answer.
    From what I have read you need to leave a message and they will call you back. They are a small company.

    What info are you looking for?

  3. #53
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    Jleecong, that's all I needed to assemble as well. Great pictures!!! Well done, l like what they did this year , seems as if the frame is lighter as well. Has anyone bought the blue? Please report!!!! My Sawback is last years in matte blue, i'm told it's the same matte blue (19") but with enhanced graphics and frame. I may buy another.

  4. #54
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    Quote Originally Posted by jleecong
    The bike arrived a day early with my order from blueskycycling.com. In classic UPS fashion there was some damage to the box but not the worst I've seen from UPS.

    Overall the bike looked good. There were a couple of scratches on the frame and a couple on the components/parts. First issue was the bottom bolt for the handle bars. It was not smooth like the top and I had to use a LOT of force from about 1/3 of the way down to tighten it. Top bolt was nice and smooth.

    My next annoyance/issue was the front wheel, 2 things.. First were the springs on the quick release bolt. There had gotten wrapped around each other. This probably took more time than anything as in the end I had to get a small flathead and needle nose pliers to get them apart without destroying the springs. Next was UPSs fault. One of the nice gashed in the box happen to be right on the front wheel. This cause the plastic cover protecting the wheel to shear of leaving plastic in the quick release bolt hole. No problem in the end, but I was scratching my head for a second.

    I didn't get a chance to ride as my pump/converter didn't work, but I did get my CatEye micro wireless computer and water bottle cage installed.

    Pics of the bike and everything.
    http://www.x2-hosting.com/Forge
    Same issue with mine. Box had a little bit of compression on it, but was not gouged like yours was. I think Forge needs to have bigger writing (perhaps even in ebonics) for THIS SIDE UP and FRAGILE! Anyway, the bottom bolt on the handlebar section of the stem was the same way for me. At first I thought it was stripped a little because the engagement was rough once it was threaded in a little. I decided to wing it and keep turning and it was fine. Once you get it tight the first time, if you have to take it out again it's smooth so don't worry too much about that.... I had to do that to reroute one of my cable because I didn't like the way it was kinking midway down the top tube. The quickrelease springs... same deal with me, they were twisted and interlocked on each other, luckly I'm a wiz with puzzles so I just "unscrewed" them from eachother... I think they do this to keep them secured during shipping so they don't get lost. Other then that, the bike looks good. One question though. Do the handlebars need to be at that angle or can you just mount it at whatever's comfortable for you? Mine's at an angle where the brake levers and more horrizontal then yours are at. Is that wrong? I guess if I were to ride standing and pushed forward towards the front of the bike my wrists would need to vertically to be able to hit the brakes. What's the appopriate angle? Should one stand like that and make sure that your wrists are perfectly streight when you depress the levers? Let me know. Bike looks good though.... go jump it a little and you'll see how light it feels. BTW, can you weigh yours as well. Mine came out at 31.5lbs with everything. I want to make sure everyone weighs theirs so that we can find out if there's any scale differences from one person to another... I think everyone's main gripe in the past has been the heavyness of the frame. If you ask me it's light as anything, but I never got to experience the 2006 versions so I can't tell you if they are lighter or not. Bikefun, how about you weigh yours and let's see?

    BTW, I see your dropout area in the back is not black/dark blue either.

  5. #55
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    Quote Originally Posted by bikefun
    Jleecong, that's all I needed to assemble as well. Great pictures!!! Well done, l like what they did this year , seems as if the frame is lighter as well. Has anyone bought the blue? Please report!!!! My Sawback is last years in matte blue, i'm told it's the same matte blue (19") but with enhanced graphics and frame. I may buy another.
    I have the 19", which is the 'blue' model. Its a matte blue, the graphics are a little fancyer, but not too different from pics I have seen of last years.

  6. #56
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    Quote Originally Posted by ChapmanMTB27
    Another question, does anyone have Forge's email? I keep trying to call them with no answer.
    If you leave a message they should call back. I have had a few conversations with them (mostly Mike), and have been very pleased with them.

  7. #57
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    Quote Originally Posted by JRSCCivic98
    The quickrelease springs... same deal with me, they were twisted and interlocked on each other, luckly I'm a wiz with puzzles so I just "unscrewed" them from eachother... I think they do this to keep them secured during shipping so they don't get lost.
    I tried that but because one spring was “locked” to the skewer it wouldn’t untwist. I had to loosen the one side then it came apart exactly as you describe “untwist”.

    Quote Originally Posted by JRSCCivic98
    One question though. Do the handlebars need to be at that angle or can you just mount it at whatever's comfortable for you? Mine's at an angle where the brake levers and more horrizontal then yours are at. Is that wrong? I guess if I were to ride standing and pushed forward towards the front of the bike my wrists would need to vertically to be able to hit the brakes. What's the appopriate angle? Should one stand like that and make sure that your wrists are perfectly streight when you depress the levers? Let me know.
    I actually followed the direction on that one. The manual said you wanted the break levers at about a 45 degree angle (or something). I’m more used to them being strait out (like in your pic), but I’ll test ride and adjust to what feels right.

    Quote Originally Posted by JRSCCivic98
    BTW, can you weigh yours as well. Mine came out at 31.5lbs with everything. I want to make sure everyone weighs theirs so that we can find out if there's any scale differences from one person to another... I think everyone's main gripe in the past has been the heavyness of the frame.
    Will do when I get home from work.

    Quote Originally Posted by JRSCCivic98
    BTW, I see your dropout area in the back is not black/dark blue either.
    Yea… Forge needs to fix/correct it. Looks a little silly with the stickers just ending, but I didn’t buy it for looks.

  8. #58
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    Nice bike

    I wish they made a 15" for my wife. I wonder if if has enough clearance for someone 5'4". It would be the perfect bike for my brother in law, he's the strongest rider I have met but rides the 100USD walmart bike I left when I bought my specialized.

  9. #59
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    Quote Originally Posted by JRSCCivic98
    BTW, can you weigh yours as well. Mine came out at 31.5lbs with everything. I want to make sure everyone weighs theirs so that we can find out if there's any scale differences from one person to another... I think everyone's main gripe in the past has been the heavyness of the frame. If you ask me it's light as anything, but I never got to experience the 2006 versions so I can't tell you if they are lighter or not. Bikefun, how about you weigh yours and let's see?
    32 lbs with the bottle cage and computer, all reflectors attached.

    EDIT: My scale measures in half pound increments.
    Last edited by jleecong; 05-03-2007 at 02:54 PM.

  10. #60
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    jeepinmike,
    What's your inseam length and how tall are you? I'm considering the 19" but my inseam is just barely over 32" and I'm a little concerned it may be too big for me despite being 5'11". I've read in some threads that stand-over height isn't all that important, but I'm not sure on this one seeing as I like my stuff.

    Edit: Just in case anyone else wants to chime in, their website states that the 19" fits most riders 5'9"-6'1" while having a stand-over height of 31.7". The 17" fits most riders 5'5"-5'8" and has a stand-over height of 30.9". Which size would anyone suggest?

    Thanks.
    Last edited by thaar; 05-03-2007 at 03:30 PM.

  11. #61
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    Quote Originally Posted by jleecong
    32 lbs with the bottle cage and computer, all reflectors attached.

    EDIT: My scale measures in half pound increments.
    OMG, your bike so fat!!! Looks like the bottle cage and puter added about .5lbs. I'm glad we got pretty much the same weight values. I gota find last year's stats on this thing to see if it's lighter.... We need BIKEFUN to weigh his and tell us what it comes in at.

    Ok, I found my printout of last year's stats. The weight was 32.7lbs. The tires were IRC Mythos (probably better then this year's pos Kenda ones). I think the chain was also better, it was a Shimano CN-HG73.
    Last edited by JRSCCivic98; 05-03-2007 at 05:50 PM.

  12. #62
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    Quote Originally Posted by thaar
    jeepinmike,
    What's your inseam length and how tall are you? I'm considering the 19" but my inseam is just barely over 32" and I'm a little concerned it may be too big for me despite being 5'11". I've read in some threads that stand-over height isn't all that important, but I'm not sure on this one seeing as I like my stuff.

    Edit: Just in case anyone else wants to chime in, their website states that the 19" fits most riders 5'9"-6'1" while having a stand-over height of 31.7". The 17" fits most riders 5'5"-5'8" and has a stand-over height of 30.9". Which size would anyone suggest?

    Thanks.
    I'll have to get my inseam and get back to you.... I'm right around 5'9".

    *edit* inseam is 33.5" floor to crotch, with sneakers on.
    Last edited by jeepinmike; 05-04-2007 at 02:26 PM.

  13. #63
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    Quote Originally Posted by thaar
    jeepinmike,
    What's your inseam length and how tall are you? I'm considering the 19" but my inseam is just barely over 32" and I'm a little concerned it may be too big for me despite being 5'11". I've read in some threads that stand-over height isn't all that important, but I'm not sure on this one seeing as I like my stuff.

    Edit: Just in case anyone else wants to chime in, their website states that the 19" fits most riders 5'9"-6'1" while having a stand-over height of 31.7". The 17" fits most riders 5'5"-5'8" and has a stand-over height of 30.9". Which size would anyone suggest?

    Thanks.
    I would go with the 19". I'm 5' 8ish and the 17 is perfect. Here is the 17".
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  14. #64
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    Quote Originally Posted by JRSCCivic98
    OMG, your bike so fat!!! Looks like the bottle cage and puter added about .5lbs. I'm glad we got pretty much the same weight values. I gota find last year's stats on this thing to see if it's lighter.... We need BIKEFUN to weigh his and tell us what it comes in at.

    Ok, I found my printout of last year's stats. The weight was 32.7lbs. The tires were IRC Mythos (probably better then this year's pos Kenda ones). I think the chain was also better, it was a Shimano CN-HG73.
    I removed all the reflectors and weighed again (I added handlebar ends). With me holding the bike I got 33.5lbs. I removed the computer, still 33.5lbs. I next weighed just the bike. I held the rear brake and set the bike on the scale by the rear wheel. 31.5, 32.5, 32, 32.5 were my weights. I would think it’s safe to say factory weight is about 31.5 to 32 pounds with pedals.

    It's also 30+ degrees cooler in my garage now than it was yesterday afternoon. If anyone is friends with a vet, a vet scale would be perfect.
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  15. #65
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    I like the handlebar ends. Who makes those and how much were they? I was going to buy a silver aluminum water bottle cage, but I kinda like the way the black looks now. I'm going to have to go by the LBS today and check some things out. Where'd you get yours?

  16. #66
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    Quote Originally Posted by JRSCCivic98
    I like the handlebar ends. Who makes those and how much were they? I was going to buy a silver aluminum water bottle cage, but I kinda like the way the black looks now. I'm going to have to go by the LBS today and check some things out. Where'd you get yours?
    Both items are from BlueSkyCycling.com.

    Delta Water Bottle Cage $2.19
    Profile Design SOS Stubby Bar Ends $14.98

  17. #67
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    Quote Originally Posted by jeepinmike
    I have the 19", which is the 'blue' model. Its a matte blue, the graphics are a little fancyer, but not too different from pics I have seen of last years.
    Any pics? The picture they have on the website doesn't look like last years matte color. I was just curious to see some real photos of the 19".

  18. #68
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    I've been patiently researching for about a month now on what the right bike will be for myself, and after reading the threads about the sawback all day yesterday, i've decided it is the perfect bike for my needs. I just ordered it this morning (unfortunately didn't get the free shipping, but did get the 10% off plus 4% from ebates although i don't know how that works). I got the 19" as i am 6'0" 175lb. Very excited to receive the bike, I suppose it'll be here sometime in the next week. I'll keep everyone posted on how I end up feeling about it, however from what some of you have said, I should be very satisfied!

  19. #69
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    Well, went to the LBS today to look around for some stuff and stumbled across a silver carbon water bottle cage. Anyway, I thought it would look good on ma' ride so I bought it. Here's some pics.... and it's only 30grams.

    It's one of these....
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  20. #70
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    Nice

  21. #71
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    That bottle cage is pimp.

    I think I'll save for one of these Forge bikes, I'll be getting the 19" since everyone has pics of the silver, I'll get some of the blue.

    I'm 6' I used to ride a 19.5" Ironhorse Warrior frame, so I'm hoping the forge will be a little bit smaller in size. the IH was okay, but just a tad too big.
    Ibex bikes

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  22. #72
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    Odd how before the new models everyone bought blue.. now everyone has silver.

    Do you realize no one has ever posted 2006 pics of the silver model?
    WTF

  23. #73
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    Any of you ridden it off road! I'm ordering the matte blue 5xx real soon, I'm so excited! How's the Dart ride for you? Please give me details.... Did you also apply the 10% discount? I googled Target coupons in the past and applied. What did you use? Let me know asap, before I order, thanks!! Going biking, very early morning here, late!

  24. #74
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    Quote Originally Posted by bikefun
    Any of you ridden it off road! I'm ordering the matte blue 5xx real soon, I'm so excited! How's the Dart ride for you? Please give me details.... Did you also apply the 10% discount? I googled Target coupons in the past and applied. What did you use? Let me know asap, before I order, thanks!! Going biking, very early morning here, late!
    It's been 90+ when I get home from work so I haven't really ridden. I also have been tuning and taking it easy breaking everything in. On top of that apparently I'm VERY out of shape.

    The bike feels great to me. Very solid and stable while feeling light and maneuverable. The DART shocks are "soft", but smooth, I'm only about 120lbs and see plenty of movement.

    I'm baby sitting yesterday/today so no trails yet I also don't have a working bike rack or truck to make it to a real trail, but I did run out for a few miles this morning and every time I ride the bike it feels better and better.

    I used the 10% off. TGTSAVQ2 - 10% off. Expires 6/30/07

    The thing to remember is that you CAN return the bike to Target (minus shipping) if you have a problem or don't like it. I felt "safe" in my purchase just because of this.

  25. #75
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    Quote Originally Posted by jleecong
    The bike feels great to me. Very solid and stable while feeling light and maneuverable. The DART shocks are "soft", but smooth, I'm only about 120lbs and see plenty of movement.

    I'm baby sitting yesterday/today so no trails yet I also don't have a working bike rack or truck to make it to a real trail, but I did run out for a few miles this morning and every time I ride the bike it feels better and better.
    Are you a girl? TAKE PICS TAKE PICS! J/K You're pretty light to be a guy.

    Anyway, you do know that you can adjust the preload on the front fork right? There's a turn knob on top of the left shock that turn clockwise to tighten or counterclockwise to loosen. I had to tighten my preload up because if you leave the fork where it is when it ships it's way too soft. I've taken several bunnyhops and jumps and now my fork only compresses about 2/3 of it's full travel at the most. I also don't have it on full stiff either. I'm about 151lbs so there's no way you're compressing more then me if you've tightened it up some. Anyway, give that a try and see how it works.


    Also, for everyone... someone take a look at your box if you still have it and post the address for Forge Bikes. It's on there, I think it's Ft. Wayne, PA or something like that. I forgot to write it down before I threw out my box.
    Last edited by JRSCCivic98; 05-05-2007 at 09:37 AM.

  26. #76
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    Quote Originally Posted by JRSCCivic98
    Are you a girl? TAKE PICS TAKE PICS! J/K You're pretty light to be a guy.

    Anyway, you do know that you can adjust the preload on the front fork right? There's a turn knob on top of the left shock that turn clockwise to tighten or counterclockwise to loosen. I had to tighten my preload up because if you leave the fork where it is when it ships it's way too soft. I've taken several bunnyhops and jumps and now my fork only compresses about 2/3 of it's full travel at the most. I also don't have it on full stiff either. I'm about 151lbs so there's no way you're compressing more then me if you've tightened it up some. Anyway, give that a try and see how it works.


    Also, for everyone... someone take a look at your box if you still have it and post the address for Forge Bikes. It's on there, I think it's Ft. Wayne, PA or something like that. I forgot to write it down before I threw out my box.
    Yea Yea... My lifetime high is a whopping 127. I've been about 120 ever since I was 15-16, I'm 27 now (I kick butt in pull up contests). The child is a high school budies that just had a grand parent pass away. They are down state and didn't want to bring the young one.

    I have adjusted the fork, it was just an example if how "soft" it is. Being as light as I am I usually have trouble with items aimed at men that relate to weight in some way (I'm not average).
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  27. #77
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    Dude drink protein milk shakes and mountain bike alot that will get your weight up. That's cool, you will build strength, go for it. Better to be 127 than really heavy. davis, when you buy the blue Forge Sawback 5xx, please post pictures ASAP, I'm about to order one, I hope they don't sellout again, these bikes will probably move quick. Anyone own the Forge 7xx? Late.

  28. #78
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    I will be sure to do that. I just got the email confirming that it has been shipped this morning so I should be getting in within the next few days.

  29. #79
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    This 19" looks like a great bike for me I,m 6 ft and 210 and really do my riding 1 hour at a time at vmax for fitness purposes.

    It looks really similar to the Iron horse 1.3 I saw at ***** today,is this this a better bike?

    Oh and welcome, I have been a lurker for a few months,this is my first post.

  30. #80
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    This is def. spec'd a lot better.

  31. #81
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    ^^^ Alright.

    I have a $99 dollar Target cheapie now so anything is a improvement lol.

    What makes it better? I,m a newb

  32. #82
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    Quote Originally Posted by bikefun
    Any of you ridden it off road! I'm ordering the matte blue 5xx real soon, I'm so excited! How's the Dart ride for you? Please give me details.... Did you also apply the 10% discount? I googled Target coupons in the past and applied. What did you use? Let me know asap, before I order, thanks!! Going biking, very early morning here, late!
    I did today... a mix of rough hard packed dirt singletrack, mud, sand, down trees, and grass.... It was almost flawless except a missed shift on the front derailer popped the chain and gouged my paint! Luckily I wasn't haulin when it happened! I attribute it to the mud that had been kicked up and had really made a mess... I didn't realize till it was already pretty built up how much mud I had rode through, which probably wasn't too good for the bike

    I can't complain about the bike, it was an enjoyable ride.

  33. #83
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    Quote Originally Posted by bikefun
    Any of you ridden it off road! I'm ordering the matte blue 5xx real soon, I'm so excited! How's the Dart ride for you? Please give me details.... Did you also apply the 10% discount? I googled Target coupons in the past and applied. What did you use? Let me know asap, before I order, thanks!! Going biking, very early morning here, late!
    Well I went "off road" for the first time yesterday. The only mistake I made was to read the trail review AFTER I road the trail. Total trip according to my puter was 3 miles.

    Bottom line the bike road/worked GREAT! Shifted easy going up or down, brakes were great, no spills, and as I road the bike it seemed very light and comfy. I have nothing to compare it to but I can't wait to go again.

    The only downside to the Forge is shop support. Before I left I checked everything and my front tire has a wobble in it, and on the front derailer going from 1 to 2 I sometimes have to work it into 2. Not a simple click. I'm sure it's just an adjustment, but had I gotten it locally... (add in your own + or -).

    This was also my girls first trip off road and again read trail reviews BEFORE you go. It was a lot harder than I thought it was going to be but she handled it like a champ. She walked a number of harder areas (Both up and down), and her NEXT didn't have any major issues besides the rear derailer being a pain, and the kickstand (that she loves) almost coming off.
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  34. #84
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    Did anyone buy the blue model? If so please post pictures,,, Thanks.

  35. #85
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    Quote Originally Posted by bikefun
    Did anyone buy the blue model? If so please post pictures,,, Thanks.
    I have one... I have been meaning to get pics. I'll try to get them up soon.

  36. #86
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    OK, I know this is the wrong forum for drivetrain questions, but it's my thread and I know you guys will already know what bike and drivetrain I'm talking in reference to so, here goes. Should there be any interference from the front derailer on the chain when I'm at the extreme ends of the rear casette? By this I mean, if I'm on the biggest ring in the front and go to the biggest ring in the back it rubs a little and if I'm on the smallest ring up front and smallest in the back it rubs again. Seems to me that the bike should be able to go into each and every gear with no interference whatsoever. Am I wrong in thinking this? Is there really a limit as to what gears you can use up front in relation to the back? If there is, that's silly because then you can't really call it a 27 speed drivetrain then. Anyway, is this normal or should I consider the drivetrain "out of tune" and take it into the LBS to get it adjusted. BTW, this was the case with it since "day one". Shouldn't it have come preadjusted properly? If it does needs LBS adjustment, should Forge fit the bill for it this one time?

  37. #87
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    Quote Originally Posted by JRSCCivic98
    By this I mean, if I'm on the biggest ring in the front and go to the biggest ring in the back it rubs a little and if I'm on the smallest ring up front and smallest in the back it rubs again. Seems to me that the bike should be able to go into each and every gear with no interference whatsoever. ......should Forge fit the bill for it this one time?

    It is common --- I would not worry. And no forge would not be responsible for the bill, you still got the bike at a great deal. Not sure if this happens on mine, but then again, i never do that. I imagine it would

  38. #88
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    Quote Originally Posted by JRSCCivic98
    OK, I know this is the wrong forum for drivetrain questions, but it's my thread and I know you guys will already know what bike and drivetrain I'm talking in reference to so, here goes. Should there be any interference from the front derailer on the chain when I'm at the extreme ends of the rear casette? By this I mean, if I'm on the biggest ring in the front and go to the biggest ring in the back it rubs a little and if I'm on the smallest ring up front and smallest in the back it rubs again. Seems to me that the bike should be able to go into each and every gear with no interference whatsoever. Am I wrong in thinking this? Is there really a limit as to what gears you can use up front in relation to the back? If there is, that's silly because then you can't really call it a 27 speed drivetrain then. Anyway, is this normal or should I consider the drivetrain "out of tune" and take it into the LBS to get it adjusted. BTW, this was the case with it since "day one". Shouldn't it have come preadjusted properly? If it does needs LBS adjustment, should Forge fit the bill for it this one time?
    its cross chaining.... normal noise, but you should avoid doing it.

  39. #89
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    Hey jeep thanks man, I really want to buy another one. I have last years Forge Sawback 5xx, which I really like. I figure I would get another, but I want to see the look.

  40. #90
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    Quote Originally Posted by txjohng
    It is common --- I would not worry. And no forge would not be responsible for the bill, you still got the bike at a great deal. Not sure if this happens on mine, but then again, i never do that. I imagine it would
    How is it common and nothing to worry about. I read that you should not let the chain drag on the derailers, especially the front one because it will wear a groove in it and cause shifting issues later on. Regardless of that, it just doesn't seem right. There are obvious design flaws in the geometry if the chain cannot be used on EACH and EVERY gear it has on it. After all, if the distance between the back casette and front crank would be longer this wouldn't be a problem. I just don't see how you can put components together and not have them mesh right. I'm certainly not a bike pro or anything, but this perticular problem just doesn't seem "a normal thing". I'd rather call it a "normal thing due to frame/component limitations". Hell, they should have called it a 20 speed because there's at least 2-3 gears on the back that you can't use when you're on the small or largest ring up front. Just silly if you ask me. I'm going to call them about this tomorrow.

    Oh yeah, how did I get this bike at a great deal? Stating that would mean that I got a Forge 5xx for some kind of discount, which I didn't. Just because Forge puts a good frame/components together and sells it for less then the other guys certainly does not mean "I got a good deal on the bike". I got a very good package for what the bike is, but then again, I think the other guys are asking too much for "a bike" anyway. That's just how I view this. If there's LBSs offering LIFETIME adjustments (worth $70 a pop) on any bike you buy from them should give everyone an idea of how OVERPRICED performance bikes really are in LBS or MSRP prices.

    Anyway, thanks for the info about this so far. Oh yeah, and hurry up jeepinmike with those pics of the blue 07 5xx already...

  41. #91
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    Wow cross chaining is like noobie 101 basics...

    Sure its not NORMAL normal to have sounds, but it will wear your gears out 200 x faster and there is not reason to cross chain because it makes no sense at all.

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    I have the 19"(blue) coming, supposed to arrive on the 15th.

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    I have the same "issue", but as mentioned above it happens on any bike and not a good thing.

    Comparing my GFs Next to the Forge, she has twist shifters that you shift the front derailer as you go up the gears in the back. 1 to 2 on the front shifter is actually like 4 clicks on her bike. This allows her to run the chain in a bad position without much noise. With the Forge the shifter is supposed to be 1 click from 1 to 2, or 2 to 3, etc. (I have issues with 1 to 2).
    Attached Images Attached Images

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    Granted it may be noobie101 material here, but I remember never having this issue with my old 10 speed when I was younger. Also, do you consider being on the middle front gear and on the smallest in the back as "cross chaining"? It's rubbing a little on the front derailer in this configuration also. I just don't see how this can be acceptable. I can except maybe the extreme opposite configurations as really pushing the 27speed drivetrain past it's clerence limits, but middle gear up front should allow you to traverse the entire back cassette without issues.

  45. #95
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    Quote Originally Posted by jleecong
    I have the same "issue", but as mentioned above it happens on any bike and not a good thing.

    Comparing my GFs Next to the Forge, she has twist shifters that you shift the front derailer as you go up the gears in the back. 1 to 2 on the front shifter is actually like 4 clicks on her bike. This allows her to run the chain in a bad position without much noise. With the Forge the shifter is supposed to be 1 click from 1 to 2, or 2 to 3, etc. (I have issues with 1 to 2).
    Wh yare her bars pointing downward??/ She'll get carpal tunnel or bad wrist pains if you keep them like that... straighten the poor girl's bar out.

  46. #96
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    Quote Originally Posted by wickerman1
    Wh yare her bars pointing downward??/ She'll get carpal tunnel or bad wrist pains if you keep them like that... straighten the poor girl's bar out.
    That is a "from Wal-Mart" picture. The bike has been "corrected" since.

    Thanks though....

  47. #97
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    Quote Originally Posted by JRSCCivic98
    Granted it may be noobie101 material here, but I remember never having this issue with my old 10 speed when I was younger. Also, do you consider being on the middle front gear and on the smallest in the back as "cross chaining"? It's rubbing a little on the front derailer in this configuration also. I just don't see how this can be acceptable. I can except maybe the extreme opposite configurations as really pushing the 27speed drivetrain past it's clerence limits, but middle gear up front should allow you to traverse the entire back cassette without issues.
    If its on the middle that is just derailler adjustment issues..

    Your previous post said smallest front and smallest back. big no no.

  48. #98
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    Chain Crossing

    You have some points....

    Although it is common with many/most bikes it does point out some type of design flaw. Which I think is very difficult to get around. So yes it is common and you do not want the rub as you will wear things out.

    I do not see any point to use the small ring in the front and crossed with the small ring in the back. And I do not see any point to use the largest ring in the front with the biggest in the back.

    Now the middle gear in the front should be able to get to all the back gears with out a problem. you many need to adjust the limit screws on the front d. to get it from rubbing.

    someone else said they had trouble shifting from 1-2, they need to mess with the barrel adjustment( just a bit, like a 1/5 of a turn) and test it that way

    NOTE: these bikes are usually assembled and tuned at the factory, then unassembled and packed. But they do get shipped thousand of miles and encounter bumps and lots of handling so thing may come out of adjustment.

    As far as getting a good deal you did. Yes you did not get any special discount, but you got a bike a for about 200 less, maybe even 1/2 off , than what an normal lbs would see something comparably equipped for.

    And you point about the lifetime maintenance being 70 a pop...a good point, but most of them only offer adjustments. Meaning, they adjust your brakes and derailures ...something you should learn. Most of them do not break down the bike, take off the cassette or the crank or rebuild the shock for free.

    Speaking of the adjustments, they are EASY. Park Tool has a great site with tons of info, or you could by a book called zinn and the art or mountain bike maintenance.

    I think you are being a bit too picky ... but you do have some points. Why do they call it a 27 speed, if in reality you can only access 23-25 of them?

  49. #99
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    occasionally i will cross the chain without realizing it in the moment but man is it ever a bad idea to run it that way. yes it is a gear and yes it will make the bike move forward, but take a look at your chain line and think about the lateral stress you are subjecting the chain to in that position.

    as for the rubbing, you can always adjust your limit screws so that the derailluer doesnt move quite as far, but you might wind up having issues shifting in or out of the outside gears. as long as its staying in that gear combo, even though i cant repeat enough how bad it is for the chain, and the derailluer shifts the chain from ring to ring smoothly, its in adjustment, even if it rubs a little. hell i get a little rub going "big" big and little little on my bike with an all xt drive train and a bash guard instead of a big ring. its the bike's way of saying "hey dummy quit messin' up my damn chain!"

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    Last edited by jeepinmike; 05-10-2007 at 08:27 AM.

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