I did an OTH last week and I have a little down time to plan/scheme some improvements and upgrades on my 97 DB that I run w/slicks aka MTB/S. Here are my previous posts in General. I was hoping to find an 17/18 CF frame w/70* Head Angle that will take all my existing parts for $300. I know, LYFAO
My 16" DB frame fits me OK I guess, but it's all I know? Not knowing any better, I wonder if a 17" or 18" would fit me better? Less likely to do another trip over the bars I hope.
When I bought this bike used it was obvious that it was set up for a much smaller person.
I put a longer fork on to increase rake and slow down the steering a little. This raised my stand over, but the boys are still safe. lol
For this frame to fit me the seat is pushed back as far as it will go. To get comfortable w/riser bars, the bars are about 2.5" past the steering head. Would a 17"/18" frame allow me to stretch out w/o going past the steering stem so much? I'm hoping to move my seat up and my bars back so there is not so much weight over the front wheel. I would like to be more centered/balanced over the bike is what I'm trying to say.
I don't do anything technical, we just ride our MTBw/Slicks for fitness. I would like to make my bike a little more neutral/balanced for all the right reasons.
My frame has 71.5* rake and the CF frame I want is 70.0*. I am shooting for a lighter, more balanced and slower steering frame. I would like to do this right the first time.
This is my homework. I would appreciate any help you can give me. I'm 5'8" w/31" inseam for pants. TIA
97 DB: From the BB center to the top of the TT is about 16.5, To the top of the seat tube is 17.0. The TT from seat tube to steering head is about 20". I would like to be more centered between seat tube and steering head. Since my bars are about 2.5" past the riser, I should be able to handle a 22" TT?
Would the handling slow down due to a longer WB on a larger frame?
So a 17" frame and or a 22" TT would be "NO Problem" for me to adjust for my size?
I'm sure each frame mfg has their own combo of dimensions that they think is the best.
I want to make sure that I can adjust myself out of any problems.
The inexpensive Chinese CF frames on E bay looked interesting. I put so little stress on a bike that less than bulletproof is not a problem for me.
I just finished checking the avail frames on E bay. All are 71* and that is not enough change from what I already have 71.5*.
Is 71* the standard/norm? Where can I find an 18" 70* head angle CF frame w/o paying for a custom? I know that there is someone on this forum that knows what's up, who is that person and where can I find them? lol
My damaged shoulders require suspension and my bad back need a TB. My need for speed requires an MTB/S and getting stronger so I can get lower over the bars.
My bars are not quite level w/seat right now, so I have a ways to go. I was hoping to get a lower stem in the next few weeks. Now that I am injured, I will have to go back to the Pee Wee Herman upright position for a while. Upright is tough for 100K rides.
My 97 DB had Indy C forks, crappy but better than nothing. I wanted to replace them and improve my geometry a little. My R7 forks are a little longer than the Indy C after factoring in sag. My bike is evolving just like me. I've only been riding for a few years, so I'm still learning what works best for me. I notice most cyclists have multiple bikes and lots of spare/unused/outdated parts. I don't have enough room for all that, I want to get it right the first time. One bike has to do.
Now that I have shared my quest for the impossible, I NEED HELP!
If I can't lose at least #2 and get a slightly slower frame, I can't get very excited.
I see that the DH and AM frames have more rake and more weight. I need an ultralight XC frame w/70* head angle. Does such an animal exist?
Time for the cold slap of reality, what can I expect for how much?
I can handle it, hopefully.
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