Different FS shock locations
Alright guys, I'm not getting much from searching.
I'm just curious about the different locations of the rear shock on FS bikes. What are the ergonomic and practical differences over the aesthetics?
Are the differences meant for different types of trails? As in, more suitable for drops or slower slower technical stuff?
Thanks for any info or links!
Re: Different FS shock locations
By locations, i assume you mean the overall rear suspension design - the mount point(s) for the shock itself is just one of many factors in the design.
There's a wealth of knowledge on this here, in mtbr and bike radar articles, and all over. I recommend researching these concepts:
Dw link - check the pivot cycles site and ibis site
Vpp -check Santa Cruz and intense bikes
Fsr/horst link -check specialized bikes
Active braking pivot - trek design
Full floater: design exists in different forms in several bikes
Oh and let's not forget the good old trusty single pivot
Sent from (redacted by nsa)
Last edited by Procter; 10-17-2013 at 08:24 AM.
This will give you a basic run down of the most common types or suspension - Buyer's guide to mountain bike suspension, part 2 - BikeRadar
Like ddprocter said, there are many many pages of info out there, too much to summarise here.
I don't crash, I just have slightly uncontrolled dismounts!
Awesome reply guys! It was indeed the terminology had lacked!
And that bike radar article was a great crash course.
I am assuming this Chinese Carbon frame believe is just a basic single pivot then?
Looks like a four-bar variation to me. See the pivot points above the rear dropouts?
For myself, I'd rather have a name-brand frame. I was also happy enough to live with fancy aluminum. But if you go this way, I'll be curious to hear how it builds up and rides.
"Don't buy upgrades; ride up grades." -Eddy Merckx
Thanks for pointing that out Andrew, I overlooked that flex point.
Originally Posted by AndrwSwitch
I've seen a few of these bikes built up and the reviews, while scarce, have been convincingly described. At $640 before shipping, I can't seem to find 'name brands' in that range for the weight and quality. And the majority of these overseas buys have been pretty consistent.
I'm still a ways away from buying one for myself, I was going to do so over this winter but decided I'd hold off until the following break as I still have much to learn: both in and off the trails.
I'm not too worried about the merits of that suspension design, but the seatstays look a might thin for my liking. I don't crash often, but when I do, it seems like there is always a nice sharp rock to catch my bike by the seatstay when it lands. With that frame, I'd tend to worry about that....
Re-Cycled Person who rides a mountain bicycle.
I didn't read all of the responses but a few things...
The actual location of the shock is based on the suspension design; VPP, DW link, Horst and Single Pivot, etc. the linkage which attached the shock to the rear triangle also plays a role in shock placement.
As for buying a "cheap" full suspension frame/bike, you can get them on close out from $500 and up. I wouldn't buy a generic brand frame for such a small savings. Look at Titus and also the websites that offer lots of close out bikes.
When it comes to suspension designs it's the game of lawyers and patents before the actual usage I feel. Most pretty much share the same concept, mechanically or by the use of shock the designers try to cancel out the pedaling force while maintaining plushness. Some design can have different shock mounting positions and still do the same thing, Giant Maestro on the Anthem is a good example, another good example is DW link.
Originally Posted by sixstroke
It's not how it's oriented by more important where it's positioned. Most popular designs have so many different pivot placement point it's ridiculous. They spend hours and hours optimizing the placement point, cheap knock offs just make bikes that look like name brand ones but does not perform, usually ended up with some weird shock rate and suspension handling. Stay away.
You don't need to spend tons of money for good design, but you want to make sure that you are getting a good one. This is not about being a snob and get the most expensive bike frame but rather get a good one because unless you have access to other FS bikes, you are not going to know how the cheapo compares to the expensive ones beside the the website ads and magazines reviews.
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