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  1. #1
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    Custom Bike Decisions -- help please

    I'm interested in getting a Lynskey M230 frame, but the large size may not fit me, so I may need to get a custom frame. As most of you probably know, there are many options I need to decide on. I lack experience with this stuff, so I'm hoping some of you can tell me the pros and cons and general advice for these choices:


    toe clip overlap (yes or no)

    brake cable routing on top tube (top vs. bottom vs. side)

    disc brake actuation -- cable vs. full hydraulic

    brake cable full length housing (yes or no)


    Thanks in advance for your help...
    OCDirt

  2. #2
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    on the brakes...

    the Disc brake FAQ, upper right corner of the Brakes forum, discusses cable vs. hydraulic at length. Jim

  3. #3
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    Toe overlap;
    If the Large size wont fit, you must be a big man. Toe overlap (shoe hitting the front wheel when turned while pedal position is at 3 o'clock position) is eminent on small frames with steep headtubes angles and short wheelbases. We are talking road bikes or track bikes. Mountain bikes like the M230, even small frames generally don't have this concern. Unless of course you go custom and specifically suggest short wheelbase, short front center or steep head tube

    Cable routing:
    I have a bike with Linear brakes that have the cables routed on top of the top tube. The guides routes the front, rear derailleur and rear brake. I sometimes hit the cables with my knee when standing. Another bike with disc brakes has the cables/hose routed under the top tube and the cables/hose are squeezed when I put the bike on a rack like when transporting. This may scratch the finish but if you have brush Ti finish, this shouldn't be a problem.

    Cable or Hydraulic for Disc?
    It takes more effort to pull a cable than squeeze hydraulic fluid. Many pros and cons here. You have the money for a custom Ti, go with one of the best like Maguras.

    Brake cable length housing:
    I never had cable activated disc. My friend has one of the Avids and like them for their easy to maintain features. He runs full housing.

    Going custom is more like fitting the bike to your anatomy and riding style. Steeper or relaxed angles, longer or shorter top tube, stable ride (longer wheelbase, lower bottom bracket, comfortable or stiff ride etc. Also things like longer head tube to raise the handlebar without a lot of spacers. dropouts that may let you run singlespeed without chain tensioner. butted tubes for weight savings, shaped tubes for stiffer frame, etc.... Am sure the people at Lynskey will guide you thru these. I have a Lynskey road and the people there were very helpful.

  4. #4
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    I'm 6'1", 180 pounds, so not that big, but the large Lynskey has a seat tube of 19" and a top tube of 23.25". My current bike has seat tube of 19" and a top tube of 23" ... BUT ... I need a 6" stem to make the cockpit feel right. I'm hoping to have a normal size stem on my next bike. I suppose different geometry could make a big enough difference -- maybe the geometry of the Lynskey frame would allow the large size to fit me properly. I would prefer to avoid the custom price tag if possible. I'm not totally set on Lynskey, so if their large size doesn't fit me well, I might consider a different brand.

    Thanks for the input thus far.
    I hope more will be coming...

    OCDirt

  5. #5
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    If I were your size I would consider the 29er Ti. Lynskey and Litessped have production frames with 24" toptube on the Large.
    It would be a bit heavier (frame, fork, wheels, tires - relative to 26 "wheel) but with lighter parts, you'll hit 22-23 lbs.
    Where are you going to ride this? What kind of riding? One thing I like with 29" wheel frame is you can fit 700c tires which means you don't have to change gears to go road bike fast on pavement.

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