1. The most important thing about buying a new bike is to make sure it fits. The only way you'll know if the bike is right for you is to size up the bike and make sure that the bike's geometry matches your body's geometry. Ask questions and do some research.
mtn. biking 101
2. If possible, try to find a shop that will let you demo the bike on real dirt. Five minutes in a parking lot won't cut it. You wouldn't buy a car without a real world test drive, and a bike should be no different.
3. Don't belive the hype. Just because your favorite rider or best friend rides a certain bike, that doesn't mean that's the best one for you. Have an open mind and be realistic about your needs and ability.
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  1. #101
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    Quote Originally Posted by Axe View Post
    I do not think it is 1:1 anymore for the 10sp. I certainly not 1:2 anymore for Shimano. Looks like they are converging to a happy medium.
    For MTB. Road 10sp Shimano is 9sp compatible, you can use a 9sp MTB derailleur if you wanted. 10sp MTB is different, closer to SRAM as you noted. Go figure. So weird, that I don't quite get it. SRAM is more consistent in that regard, you can use MTB and Road derailleurs interchangeably at the 10sp level. There must be some logic to it, but I honestly stopped caring and just use SRAM now.

  2. #102
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jernas View Post
    Wow before reading this thread I thought my Alivio is supreme but now I feel like I have to replace it as soon as possible. In other words...
    don't bother....it's a rat race. you get sucked into spending $$$ on blingy stuff. the next thing you know, you're wearing lycra and racing and spending even more $$$$ on SRAM XX1.

  3. #103
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    Quote Originally Posted by IAmHolland View Post
    Anything is good enough, seriously.
    Besides aforementioned cheap cage pedals, and rear freewheel, I would also avoid single wall rims. They just do not hold up. So is the case with single-piece cranks. Really cheap suspension forks - full rigid will do better with a decent tire.

    Pretty much stuff that comes on the department store bikes. They do in fact break in pieces on a trail. Mostly safety issue, not some bike geek snobbish attitude.


    ...migration path of all components I compulsively get to try usually ends up as an upgrade for my non-enthusiast friends.

  4. #104
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    Quote Originally Posted by Axe View Post
    I do not think it is 1:1 anymore for the 10sp. I certainly not 1:2 anymore for Shimano. Looks like they are converging to a happy medium.
    The "actual" ratio for SRAM 1:1 is 1.1:1 (yes, that's 1.1) ... and for SRAM 10-speed Exact Actuation, it is about 1.25:1 (as measured by me so it may be a little off). SRAM 9 and 10 speed bits are cross compatible but takes a good amount of adjusting to work properly.

    Shimano's ratio for older stuff (i.e. Dura Ace) was 1.9:1 and their newer stuff since then is 1.7:1 and this is even for Shimano 10-speed shifters and rear derailers. Shimano 9 and 10 speed stuff is therefore cross compatible.

    SRAM and Shimano are still no where close to each other.

    -S

  5. #105
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    Quote Originally Posted by Axe View Post
    Besides aforementioned cheap cage pedals, and rear freewheel, I would also avoid single wall rims. They just do not hold up. So is the case with single-piece cranks. Really cheap suspension forks - full rigid will do better with a decent tire.

    Pretty much stuff that comes on the department store bikes. They do in fact break in pieces on a trail. Mostly safety issue, not some bike geek snobbish attitude.


    ...migration path of all components I compulsively get to try usually ends up as an upgrade for my non-enthusiast friends.
    You're right on those parts, though I haven't seen a 1 piece crank in ages. I bought my wife a low end GT Avalanche-W for $300 new and even it came with a freehub and a 3 piece crank (square taper). Cheap mechanical disc brakes, it works, nothing much more different than my BB7s I have on my CX bike. I haven't shopped at Walmart and can't really say what comes on those bikes.

    Needless to say, being a parts whore, I tore it apart and replaced it with SLX and some cheap FSA suare taper cranks (165mm she's short) with alloy rings, which work fine. A new wheelset (Black Flag Pro), Magura weight weenie hydraulic brakes, and Manitou R7 fork....and the bike now sits looking pretty....hardly touched.

    Yeah, safety issues for some things. I guess it depends on use. My 1990 Rockhopper came with single wall rims. I still use them. I basically ride fireroad/CX type of rides with it, and some minor tech (slowly) at STCP. It needs truing, but hasn't cracked or folded yet. I'm actually surprised the rims lasted so long, as did the hub body (I had to relube it with gear oil). I know what I have and ride it accordingly, no bashing, try to stay smooth. I still have all the original parts, in a bag as it's a SS bike now. It's vintage, but the wheels are on it's last legs (cassette hub body needs a real rebuild but usually isn't worth the time, kinda sad).

    I have a friend that rides his cheap Suntour fork (same fork as my wife's GT-W) everywhere, it hasn't caved yet. It's not ideal, doesn't work great, but good enough for the casual rider. If you could afford it, an upgrade works, but yeah a rigid with a fat 2.5" tire tubeless with low PSI would be more responsive and better "suspended" than that fork. Lighter too. I wouldn't go out of my way to replace it though, unless you invest the time to actually ride it long and hard. There are probably cheaper forks, but I am not aware of them.

    The point is, even cheap parts can last depending on usage. I think most of the commentary about life of parts at the extreme end come from guys that ride alot. At the other end, even for the casual rider with lots of money, aluminum cassettes would probably last a while too. Where as, for a racer it probably won't last a season. Actually, aluminum cassettes would last quite a while for a kid, and light too (not enough power).

  6. #106
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    Quote Originally Posted by shibiwan View Post
    The "actual" ratio for SRAM 1:1 is 1.1:1 (yes, that's 1.1) ... and for SRAM 10-speed Exact Actuation, it is about 1.25:1 (as measured by me so it may be a little off). SRAM 9 and 10 speed bits are cross compatible but takes a good amount of adjusting to work properly.

    Shimano's ratio for older stuff (i.e. Dura Ace) was 1.9:1 and their newer stuff since then is 1.7:1 and this is even for Shimano 10-speed shifters and rear derailers. Shimano 9 and 10 speed stuff is therefore cross compatible.

    SRAM and Shimano are still no where close to each other.
    According to the magic of internet search... Cable pulls:
    Shimano 8 - 2.8mm
    Shimano 9 - 2.5mm
    Shimano 10 road - 2.3mm
    Shimano 10 MTB - can't find exact reference, is not "Vivid indexing" meant to actually vary it over the cassette? Interesting lack of exact documentation. I will whip out my calipers and measure. But it does look notably more than 2.5mm..
    SRAM 9 - 4.0mm
    SRAM 10 - 3.1mm


    In any case, after Shadow came out, I switched to Shimano camp.

  7. #107
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    Quote Originally Posted by Axe View Post
    According to the magic of internet search... Cable pulls:
    Shimano 8 - 2.8mm
    Shimano 9 - 2.5mm
    Shimano 10 road - 2.3mm
    Shimano 10 MTB - can't find exact reference, is not "Vivid indexing" meant to actually vary it over the cassette? Interesting lack of exact documentation. I will whip out my calipers and measure. But it does look notably more than 2.5mm..
    SRAM 9 - 4.0mm
    SRAM 10 - 3.1mm


    In any case, after Shadow came out, I switched to Shimano camp.
    Here you go:
    Bicycles/Maintenance and Repair/Gear-changing Dimensions - Wikibooks, open books for an open world

  8. #108
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    Been there, no data on Dyna Sys pull. It quotes the Shimano 10 - road.

  9. #109
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    Since this thread is back on track I must say I have never had any trouble with my Shimano xt
    I had 8 9 and 10 and it was all solid
    I only switched to sram because grip shift works better for me after 2 hours of riding
    I'm getting old


    Sj
    I am slow therefore I am

  10. #110
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nakkoush View Post
    How does Shimano XTR compare to XT in terms of durability?
    I head that XTR is not only lighter than the XT but it wears out much quicker than the XT !!
    Your comments are appreciated
    For all practical purposes XTR is just as durable as XT. Some particular components may be a little more, some a little less. I would not let durability sway you one way or the other.
    15mm is a second-best solution to a problem that was already solved.

  11. #111
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    Quote Originally Posted by kapusta View Post
    For all practical purposes XTR is just as durable as XT. Some particular components may be a little more, some a little less. I would not let durability sway you one way or the other.

    ^^^ This.

    Both XT and XTR quality are about the same and they are both pretty durable in the big scheme of things.

    -S

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