1. The most important thing about buying a new bike is to make sure it fits. The only way you'll know if the bike is right for you is to size up the bike and make sure that the bike's geometry matches your body's geometry. Ask questions and do some research.
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2. If possible, try to find a shop that will let you demo the bike on real dirt. Five minutes in a parking lot won't cut it. You wouldn't buy a car without a real world test drive, and a bike should be no different.
3. Don't belive the hype. Just because your favorite rider or best friend rides a certain bike, that doesn't mean that's the best one for you. Have an open mind and be realistic about your needs and ability.
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  1. #1
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    Weinmann TM19 Rims

    Do these suck?

    Weinmann TM19

    Comments appreciated.

    Intended use flat land, paved and dirt road riding.

    I noticed that there were a lot of reviews of the 519, but not the TM19.
    Last edited by EscapeVelo; 05-22-2012 at 05:24 PM.

  2. #2
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    Would Alex DM24 be a good upgrade? Or perhaps Sun Rhyno Lite.

  3. #3
    T.W.O
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    Doesn't list the weight specs or anything. Looks like they come a bit narrow which would be fine for you because you could slap a narrow 26" smooth tire on it and it'll be quicker than using a big thick nobby mtb tire. Sun Rhyno Lites are a great model for the price and would pretty much be bomb proof for what you are using them for.
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  4. #4
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    Thanks!

    How about some tires to go with the new Sun Rhyno Lite rims?

    Kenda 1027 Kadre tires is what is on the Weinmann TM19 rims.

    Maybe something with less knobs as you said.

    Kenda, Continental or WTB
    Last edited by EscapeVelo; 05-22-2012 at 06:01 PM.

  5. #5
    T.W.O
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    Depends on if you want a MTB tire or a city slick. If a mtb tire then Kenda Small Blocks are good because they have a low rolling resistance, are semi lightweight, and are not super expensive.
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  6. #6
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    I dont want a city slick. But big spaced knobs arent either.. Less aggressive tread with low rolling resistence, but not without something for the dirt.

    I was looking at the Kenda Komfort but the Kenda Small Block Eight seem nice too. Checking out Continental now.

  7. #7
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    The Continental X-King look promising in the Kenda Small Block vein.

    Though Ive been looking at some of the city slickers and some of them have some tread on them, that may be acceptable, just what I need.


    Thanks for helping me think things through and narrow things down.

  8. #8
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    Sun Rhyno Lites with Continental or Kenda (X-King or Small Block Eights) or Continental or Kenda city slickers.

  9. #9
    Fat-tired Roadie
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    What are you trying to do here? I feel like this thread is entirely lacking in context...
    "Don't buy upgrades; ride up grades." -Eddy Merckx

  10. #10
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    Just trying to upgrade my bike.....any suggestions?

    Schwinn Solution GSD

    · Frame: Schwinn N'Litened aluminum with trail-tuned geometry and replaceable derailleur hanger
    · Fork: Trail-tuned MA-179 suspension fork with alloy crown, forged dropouts, and 50mm travel
    · Rear shock: N/A
    · Crank: Suntour XCC-T202 alloy 22/32/42T with chainguard
    · Bottom bracket: VP semi-cartridge sq. JIS taper
    · Front derailleur: Suntour XCM202
    · Rear derailleur: Shimano Acera M340
    · Shifters: Shimano EF50 Easy Fire triggers
    · Brake levers: Shimano EF-50
    · Brakes: Radius Mechanical 7.0 Disc
    · Gears: DNP 7-speed, 13-28T
    · Rims: Weinmann TM-19 alloy 36 hole
    · Tires: Kenda K-1027 26"x1.95"
    · Pedals: Resin body, steel axle
    · Handlebar: 40mm rise, 6-degree bend
    · Stem: Alloy 1 1/8" threadless A-head
    · Seatpost: Alloy micro adjust
    · Seat: Trail-tuned with two-tone cover
    · Headset: 1 1/8 inch threadless
    · Chain: KMC Z-51
    · Front Hub: Sealed alloy disc hub set quick-release
    · Rear Hub: Sealed alloy disc hub set quick-release
    · Spokes: Stainless steel 14 gauge
    · Grips: Schwinn Approved single-density Kraton rubber
    · Extras: Alloy QR seat binder

  11. #11
    Fat-tired Roadie
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    Don't do it. It's a trap - you'll just break something else in a few more rides.

    Put away some money every paycheck and start watching Craig's List.

    You're looking for an enthusiast-level bike - something that would have retailed for $600 and up. Used, you can do pretty well for $300. Some of my friends have done very well indeed for $600 - depending on age, that's a bike that retailed for $1200 to $1800. Nice builds, so they can just ride the bikes and not throw parts at them.
    "Don't buy upgrades; ride up grades." -Eddy Merckx

  12. #12
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    How about this one?

    Schwinn Homegrown

  13. #13
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    Or this one...


    Giant SE XTC 1

  14. #14
    Fat-tired Roadie
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    They were racing bikes. The frame was quite light for its day, and it looks like the guy has kept the build up to date. You'd never be able to have a rear disc brake, but as long as you're comfortable with that...

    If I was looking for a bike at the moment, I'd be tempted by it. I prefer to buy local, but that's me.

    The bike is sized for someone a bit above average height for an American male. Like, 5'11" or so.

    You could certainly do a lot worse.

    EDIT: this post was wrt. the Schwinn Homegrown.
    "Don't buy upgrades; ride up grades." -Eddy Merckx

  15. #15
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    Im fine without a rear disc. Avid BB7 on the front and Avid V Brakes on the rear, would be ideal.

    Id want new tires and perhaps a new rear rim - Sun Rhyno Lite.

  16. #16
    Fat-tired Roadie
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    The Giant looks like a good option too. Nicer brakes and fork than the Schwinn. It's for somebody more my size - 5'8" or so.
    "Don't buy upgrades; ride up grades." -Eddy Merckx

  17. #17
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    Im 5'10 but my crotch is 30" I also have extra weight that I could stand to lose, but Im not lightweight regardless.....so lightweight parts are not that crucial.

    Would like some nice rims and tires though.

  18. #18
    Fat-tired Roadie
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    Here's a funny link about inseams.
    How do you measure inseam for bike frame size?

    If you're measuring your inseam the masochist cyclist way, you're probably better on 19" and 20" frames. This would mean you had a relatively long torso for your height, which usually correlates to a longer reach on a bike. Note that personal preference plays a huge role in this, but if you're going to buy online without a reference bike, you kinda have to do it by height and cross your fingers. So, you should know that you might get it wrong. It's not the end of the world, but it'd be a bummer.
    "Don't buy upgrades; ride up grades." -Eddy Merckx

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by AndrwSwitch View Post
    Here's a funny link about inseams.
    How do you measure inseam for bike frame size?

    If you're measuring your inseam the masochist cyclist way, you're probably better on 19" and 20" frames. This would mean you had a relatively long torso for your height, which usually correlates to a longer reach on a bike. Note that personal preference plays a huge role in this, but if you're going to buy online without a reference bike, you kinda have to do it by height and cross your fingers. So, you should know that you might get it wrong. It's not the end of the world, but it'd be a bummer.
    I dont know if Im using the right terminology....but I definitely want a top bar with a significant drop towards the rear (out of horizontal), so that I dont have any mishaps on dismount, stopping.

  20. #20
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    That's standover clearance.

    People with short inseams for their height often have to compromise either the fit of the bike when riding or the standover clearance. There are threads here about it every week or so, and they're often pretty contentious.

    Ultimately, you have to make yourself happy. So I'll leave you with this - do you want the bike to ride, or to stand over?
    "Don't buy upgrades; ride up grades." -Eddy Merckx

  21. #21
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    Well, I was noticing that some bike frames have a more horizontal top bar and others have a drop to the rear. So I was thinking that maybe I could have both by getting a large frame but with a sloped top bar. I am unconcerned about efficiency issues.

    This will be a rather light duty bike, for riding about 10 miles a day in the morning on flat land. For excercise. Id jog, but that is hard on fat boy's feet and knees.

  22. #22
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    AndrwSwitch is steering you right, both those bikes are much
    better than what you originally posted. Of the 2 you posted I would go
    with the Giant, much better component wise, and I would never buy a used
    bike that displayed rust, like the Schwinn Homegrown has on it. That tells
    me it wasn't maintained. Go with the Giant, it looks like someone cared about it.
    Climb into the sky, never wonder why - Tailgunner
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  23. #23
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    If the Giant is too small for you, you can get into pretty long stems, especially if you're really not doing a lot of off-road descending, before the handling gets too gnarly. It'll also give you pretty decent standover clearance.

    Would it be my choice, for me, if I was taller? Probably not. But you're not me, and that's okay.
    "Don't buy upgrades; ride up grades." -Eddy Merckx

  24. #24
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    Ill just keep looking, I guess.

    I like the 2000 and 2001 'Giant XTC 1 yellow paint jobs.

    I wont be putting too much stress on the bike (besides my over 200 lbs body weight).

    The Schwinn Homegrowns are nice.

    Maybe a Specialized Stumpjumper.


    I never got to look at the 98 Cro-Moly Rock Hopper, its an hour drive, and Ive been working 7 days a week, 10 hour days...but Im not complaining.

  25. #25
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    Just out of curiousity...

    Any comments on the Weinmann TM19?

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