1. The most important thing about buying a new bike is to make sure it fits. The only way you'll know if the bike is right for you is to size up the bike and make sure that the bike's geometry matches your body's geometry. Ask questions and do some research.
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2. If possible, try to find a shop that will let you demo the bike on real dirt. Five minutes in a parking lot won't cut it. You wouldn't buy a car without a real world test drive, and a bike should be no different.
3. Don't belive the hype. Just because your favorite rider or best friend rides a certain bike, that doesn't mean that's the best one for you. Have an open mind and be realistic about your needs and ability.
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  1. #1
    I'm Done
    Reputation: Durga's Avatar
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    Washers Under Square-Taper Crank Bolts?

    The instructions for my old sq. taper cranks require washers underneath the crank bolts, or use of a bolt with built-in washers. My question is, are the bolts pictured below considered to be the type with the washers built-in? Just to be clear, on the pictured bolts, the flat portion (that would rest against the crankarm if no washer is used) is fused to the rest of the bolt. Thanks
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    Last edited by Durga; 01-23-2013 at 10:17 PM.

  2. #2
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    Yep - those are 'Built - In' washers and will work fine. Loads of Square taper cranks come with those

  3. #3
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    Will work just fine.
    Geologist by trade...bicycle mechanic (former) by the grace of God!

    2012 Specialized Stumpy EVO 29 HT

  4. #4
    1/2 fast or 1/2 assed?
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    Ima go out on a limb and say just do yourself a favor and go splined.
    I'm a ******bag in real life so I dont have to be one on the interwebz.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Koppuh Klyde View Post
    Ima go out on a limb and say just do yourself a favor and go splined.
    I will go out on a limb and say the 20year old XTR's I have are still going strong in Square Taper.

  6. #6
    1/2 fast or 1/2 assed?
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    Quote Originally Posted by AKamp View Post
    I will go out on a limb and say the 20year old XTR's I have are still going strong in Square Taper.
    Let me borrow 'em.

    FWIW Ive been through a couple of square tapers w/ no luck. Old XTs circa 1989 and most recently stock Truvativ 5Ds that were replaced ASAP. Non drive side was coming loose causing rounding of the crankarm.

    If you didnt notice my ID Im on the heavy side @ ~250#.
    I'm a ******bag in real life so I dont have to be one on the interwebz.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Koppuh Klyde View Post
    Ima go out on a limb and say just do yourself a favor and go splined.
    I will go out on a limb and say the 20year old XTR's I have are still going strong in Square Taper.

  8. #8
    rider
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    Quote Originally Posted by AKamp View Post
    I will go out on a limb and say the 20year old XTR's I have are still going strong in Square Taper.
    That would be the FC-M900. One of the best cranks ever made: cold forging!

    I have a couple of them in 180mm. I set them up with a Mountain Tamer adapter & 127mm BB and run them with 19-28-36T-ring guard. Sweet setup, the 19t front and 36t rear gives me a 15.3 gear inch granny on a 29er.
    Abandoned the 26" wheel in May '03

  9. #9
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    Durga,

    Others have answered your question, but here are a fiew little tidbits of advice on this job:

    1) Do NOT grease the square tapered faces of the BB spindle or cranks. Clean both well and install dry. Grease may allow a soft aluminum crank to slide too far onto the steel spindle, causing it to expand or crack.

    2) However, do grease the bolt threads and the 'washer' face of the crank bolts before installing them. This will allow you to ensure you reach correct torque for the crank arms.

    3) Make sure you torque the crank bolts to spec. If they come loose, you are liable to ruin the cranks since the mating faces warp easily when they are loose.

    Just my $0.02....

  10. #10
    rider
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    As far as the don't grease the tapers go, I have bought a bunch of Shimano sealed SQ taper BB's over the years and a couple of them came out of the box with factory grease on the tapers. So I have tried them W & WO grease on the tapers & am not sure it matters much either way..

    I don't grease the crank bolt threads but will put a very small amount of grease on the crank bolt to washer interface.

    What I do know for sure is to not over tighten the crank bolts. Then I gently re-torque two or three times during the first ride and a number of times thereafter. After a while the crank bolts settle into a solid torque and only rarely need tightening thereafter.
    Abandoned the 26" wheel in May '03

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