1. The most important thing about buying a new bike is to make sure it fits. The only way you'll know if the bike is right for you is to size up the bike and make sure that the bike's geometry matches your body's geometry. Ask questions and do some research.
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2. If possible, try to find a shop that will let you demo the bike on real dirt. Five minutes in a parking lot won't cut it. You wouldn't buy a car without a real world test drive, and a bike should be no different.
3. Don't belive the hype. Just because your favorite rider or best friend rides a certain bike, that doesn't mean that's the best one for you. Have an open mind and be realistic about your needs and ability.
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  1. #1
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    Very N00b situation inside...

    Ok, so I've been upgrading all the components to my Specialized HR XC so far:

    Avid Juicy Carbon Brakes -- installed and working well.

    SHIMANO DEORE XT M771 FRONT DERAILLEUR
    Down Swing Dual Pull Band Type 34.9mm

    SHIMANO DEORE HG-50 9-SPEED CASSETTE
    11-32 Tooth

    SHIMANO DEORE XT M770 REAR DERAILLEUR
    Sgs Cage, 9 Speed, Low-Normal

    FC442 Shimano Crankset


    Now my problem: the front derailleur won't go over the 42t sprocket. There is about a 1/8" gap that won't allow it to go completely over the sprocket.

    Also, the crank on the sprocket side doesn't go in all the way to the bottom bracket. Did I get the wrong crankset or is something else wrong? Any help would be appreciated :-)

    How is this setup? Decent?

    --Nick

  2. #2
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    If the front derailleur is installed correctly it should just need to be adjusted.You can do this by turning the drum at the shifter a little at a time in one direction or the other until it shifts correctly.This can be tricky,but if you're patient it should work.

    Nice components,I have a complete XT drivetrain on mine and it works well.


    Chris

  3. #3
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    Cool, I'll give that a shot today and see what happens :-)

    --Nick

  4. #4
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    Ok, so on the FD install I just attached it ran my chain through, made sure my rear derailuer was alright.........still not lining up with the last sprocket though.

    Is it ok that the crank doesn't go all the way into the bottom bracket?

    --Nick

  5. #5
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    Reputation: nomit's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ramoneguru
    Is it ok that the crank doesn't go all the way into the bottom bracket?

    --Nick
    yes?
    the bolt on the outside should pretension the crank, and then the allens on the crank will hold it in place. or if it's a square taper...the bolt will snug it into place and where ever it gets tight is where it sits. it shouldn't be touching or into the bottom bracket (if it did....your cranks would hit your chainstay as they rotated).

  6. #6
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    Ok that all makes sense, but I've added some pictures so you can get the idea about what I'm dealing with.

    This is the stock crank Shimano FC-TX70




    Now the new crank Shimano FC-M442




    Is that second picture correct? Its off by like 3/4" am I insane or is that legit?
    I've been adjusting everything for the past 3 days and its being a b**ch. The damn FD still won't go over the largest cog *sigh* I'm getting ready to just put a bash guard on it and call it a day....

    --Nick

  7. #7
    local trails rider
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    Those cranks don't look OK. They should get a lot closer to the BB shell.

    How to fix it? Haven't got a clue, I went for Hollowtech 2 LX cranks.

    Have you checked the Shimano and Parktool websites for instructions?

  8. #8
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    Yeah, the Shimano website didn't offer much and neither did parktool's.

    I know not all BB's are compatible with with all cranks, but the inner diameter for these 2 appeared to be the same....guess they aren't. That's also not a Shimano BB, its a TH cartridge according to the Specialized website....Well, I guess I'll be looking for a new set of cranks then *shrug*

    --Nick

  9. #9
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    Hmm. . . before you give up, try a Shimano BB. Be sure you reference the BB size either by removing the existing BB or checking the Specialized website - it's probably a 68x113 but it's better to be safe than sorry. . .

    Ahh, and don't forget, if you're going to remove the BB-shell, the driveside is reverse-threaded. . . f**k that up and it'll be time for a new frame.

  10. #10
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    The crank issue doesn't bother me too much. Square taper is limited...i mean, you can crank on the bolt as much as you want, but it's only going to slide up the spindle so far before it's completely wedged on. They're not going to fall off, but you get a screwy "Q-factor", which refers to the distance between crank arms. This would be more of an issue on a single speed, since it would affect your chainline more. You might consider a shorter BB spindle to reduce that gap.

    The derailleur issue makes me think your high limit screw isn't adjusted properly, or your cable tension is too high to begin with.
    Read up here: http://parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=75

  11. #11
    local trails rider
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    If the cranks and chainrings are that far out, It is quite possible they are so far that the derailer does not have enough movement range.

  12. #12
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    You've got a square taper BB in there from what I can see, which is not the same as XT's BB, buy the correct BB for your cranks, and it'll work, you're trying to pound in a screw with a hammer right now.

  13. #13
    surfer w/out waves
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    Shimano FC-M442 is a Square Taper crank... it should work with all square taper bottom brackets....

    You do know that screwing the crank bolt in is what tightens the whole group together???

    Cuz that looks pretty similar to a crank pushed on to the bottom bracket spindle... and then you put the crank bolt in and torque it down until it bottoms out.
    "Listen, strange women lyin' in ponds distributin' swords is no basis for a system of government!..." -- Dennis the Peasant

  14. #14
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    From the Specialized website:

    Bottom Bracket: TH cartridge, square taper, 68 x 122.5mm for 47.5mm chain line

    --Nick

  15. #15
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    Looks like you need a shorter bottom bracket.

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