1. The most important thing about buying a new bike is to make sure it fits. The only way you'll know if the bike is right for you is to size up the bike and make sure that the bike's geometry matches your body's geometry. Ask questions and do some research.
mtn. biking 101
2. If possible, try to find a shop that will let you demo the bike on real dirt. Five minutes in a parking lot won't cut it. You wouldn't buy a car without a real world test drive, and a bike should be no different.
3. Don't belive the hype. Just because your favorite rider or best friend rides a certain bike, that doesn't mean that's the best one for you. Have an open mind and be realistic about your needs and ability.
Results 1 to 6 of 6
  1. #1
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Posts
    830

    Soften an old fork

    I have one question. Older model forks like the RST 381R use elastomers/springs. Mine fells very stiff. If I take the elastomers/springs out from the ONE leg will it work? I was reading an old mtb magazine saying that somebody took off the spring and oil from a marzocchi fork, instead of putting softer spring and it worked great. What do you think?

  2. #2
    There's no app for this.
    Reputation: JimC.'s Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Posts
    5,377

    I think

    you'll get a better answer over in the "what fork to get" forum. Jim

  3. #3
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Kaba Klaus's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Posts
    1,673
    I agree with Jim. Tuning a fork is an adventure even for hobby mechanics. Getting replacement parts for older forks is often difficult. So the standard answer is: buy a new one.

    If you like wrenching: Don't expect fast results and get going. It is fun to see how a fork works.

  4. #4
    mtbr member
    Reputation: dir-T's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    1,296
    I think that would be a bad idea.

    Since those older forks were designed to have springs in each leg, removing one side would make that side compress much much easier than the other. This might make that un-sprung side compress on small bumps while the other side didn't. You could end up with a wheel that tilted sideways on each bump and the force that used to be absorbed by the second spring would be transmitted to the sprung side via the brake arch. Because that arch was never designed for that extra force it could end up snapping.

  5. #5
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Joules's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Posts
    2,256
    Quote Originally Posted by dir-T
    Because that arch was never designed for that extra force it could end up snapping.
    I'd be more worried about the axle. Way back when I saw a number of broken axles due to blown seals in oil damped forks. Forks sure have come a long way from bolt-on arches and hubs that where basically designed for road bikes.


    Re softening the old fork... sorry but I think that one is done. Elastomers wear out, and if the manufacturer isn't supporting them anymore, you are pretty much SOL, unless of course you can work out some way to use currently available parts in there. Even NOS elsatomers might not work as they do degrade over time.

  6. #6
    ride hard take risks
    Reputation: dogonfr's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Posts
    25,589
    Save your drachma bro.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •