Results 1 to 99 of 99
  1. #1
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Posts
    387

    Shimano Mineral Oil alternatives?

    Hi all,

    I just came back from the LBS dissapointed because they do not have shimano Mineral Oil, since i need to bleed my hydrolic shimano deore lx brakes. The guy that i asked said i can use baby mineral oil from walgreens or CVS...

    does this really hold up to be true? I was alittle skeptical because I would think Bike mineral oil would have slightly different compounds to work with the gaskets, seals, and overall, be a much nicer fluid without air bubbles, compared to mineral oil, that is applied on a baby..

    Thanks
    -Matt

  2. #2
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Shalom's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Posts
    2,006
    Not sure about that. I am a bit anal when it comes to that. I only used Shimano mineral. Learnt the hard way that the LBS does not always have it, so got them to order some for me to keep as spare at home. Solved the problem for the future.

  3. #3
    mtbr member
    Reputation: boomn's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Posts
    9,647
    Even ignoring differences in quality, I would not recommend it because that stuff is a much different viscosity and the brake will not perform properly.

  4. #4
    mtbr member
    Reputation: mtbnozpikr's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    1,684
    Quote Originally Posted by Mattlikestobike View Post
    I just came back from the LBS dissapointed because they do not have shimano Mineral Oil, since i need to bleed my hydrolic shimano deore lx brakes. The guy that i asked said i can use baby mineral oil from walgreens or CVS...
    Mineral oil is mineral oil but not everything you mentioned is pure mineral oil. Brake fluid has additives in it to protect the seals and do other things just as you mentioned and the Shimano blend is probably different than the Magura blend. Baby oil has a lower viscosity and has fragrances in it for obvious reasons. You can get just about 100% pure mineral oil at Walmart or probably any other pharmacy. It the viscosity is relatively high but it doesn't have anything else in it like Shimano or Magura would put in for seal longevity. It is used as a laxative. I have used it to lubricate sticky pistons. I agree with everyone else here: if you are going to bleed your brakes, your best bet is to stick with the stuff made for the particular application.
    2012 Intense M9
    2012 Pivot Mach 5.7 Carbon
    2008 Look 595
    2007 Custom Litespeed Sewanee

  5. #5
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Posts
    468
    Take or leave these comments as you will.
    You need to make your own descisions based on what you decide.

    However, based on advice I received years ago I have been running 2.5 wt mineral based fork oil in my Shimano brakes for years with no dramas what so ever.

    Reasoning being the fork oil, as opposed to std mineral engine oil, has additives designed for contact with seals etc and is not engineered to work at high temps.
    I do know of a couple of guys who run std sewing machine oil or 3 in 1 handy man oil.
    I make no comment on these options other than to say that if thats all I had lying around and it was race eve and I was stuck I would use it in a blink.

    Shimano charges around $15.00 for a 250ml bottle for their "Special" brake oil.
    Quality mineral engine oils can be had for $40.00 for 5 lts

    Shimano = $60.00 per liter
    Engine oil = $8.00 per liter

    Once again Shimano is laughing all the way to the bank at riders expense.
    There is no possible way they can justify that mark up.

  6. #6
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Posts
    387
    Jeffgre, you make a very good point.. I just came back from another LBS, and just bought the shimano mineral oil.. dang. a 2oz bottle is like $24 in my area! i was stunned.. in shear embarrassment, i just paid for it.

    I think i will just pay up the price of shimano mineral oil. seems like it is the best method.. and having mineral oil fail while biking might cost more than just the shimano mineral oil replacement.

    Thanks guys!

  7. #7
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Posts
    2,787
    You might want to buy your refills by the liter...http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-Brake-...ref=pd_sim_sg5

  8. #8
    Professional Speed Bump
    Reputation: captainjoon's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Posts
    755
    ^ +1

    I bought that same litre, and it will last you a lifetime.

  9. #9
    Dirt Deviant
    Reputation: savagemann's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Posts
    3,693
    Just to throw this out there, I believe you will void your warranty if you use anything other than Shimano Oil in Shimano Brakes.
    Something to keep in mind.
    BTW, I wouldn't put baby oil in my brakes.
    Look, whatever happens, don't fight the mountain.

  10. #10
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    1,196
    Pentosin CHF 7.1 works for me. Using it in my 3 sets of brakes for years now.

  11. #11
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Posts
    6,656
    Are you sure you need more oil?

    Mine got some air trapped in them and needed a bleed, but I'll I did was carefully pull the cap off, slowly work the lever and force the air out. Once you stop getting air bubbles, your good to go.
    OG Ripley v2
    Carver 420 TI

  12. #12
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Posts
    387
    Awesome, going to order that liter of mineral oil soon.. Does the fluid expire by a certain point?

    Yes, i am sure i need more oil.. Brake felt very spongy, and anyways, its been about 4-6months.

  13. #13
    Professional Speed Bump
    Reputation: captainjoon's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Posts
    755
    Shouldn't expire as far as I know.

    Make sure the calipers are 45 degree to 90 degree in position with the hose and nipple side up when you bleed to ensure proper bleeding. If it's near horizontal or - degrees in angle, you'll never get all the air out of the calipers.


  14. #14
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Posts
    6,656
    Quote Originally Posted by Mattlikestobike View Post
    Awesome, going to order that liter of mineral oil soon.. Does the fluid expire by a certain point?

    Yes, i am sure i need more oil.. Brake felt very spongy, and anyways, its been about 4-6months.
    On my last bike I had XTs on it and never changed the fluid in 6 years and they were fine.
    OG Ripley v2
    Carver 420 TI

  15. #15
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Posts
    387
    Quote Originally Posted by TwoTone View Post
    On my last bike I had XTs on it and never changed the fluid in 6 years and they were fine.
    wow! my LBS said to replace the oil every 4-6months. I did the bleed myself, because the LBS was charging $50 on 1 caliper/lever... $100 total before tax..

    i really dont understand why the LBS is charging that much, for such a simple job..

  16. #16
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Posts
    387
    Quote Originally Posted by captainjoon View Post
    Shouldn't expire as far as I know.

    Make sure the calipers are 45 degree to 90 degree in position with the hose and nipple side up when you bleed to ensure proper bleeding. If it's near horizontal or - degrees in angle, you'll never get all the air out of the calipers.
    Sweet thanks!

    uh oh.... i didnt rebleed with the hose angled really.. id say i angled the cable about 30ish degrees

    what would happen if there really is air in the line? At the moment, the brake power is alot stronger than before, and feels a long more responsive. How can i telll there is air in the line? thanks

  17. #17
    mtbr member
    Reputation: mtbnozpikr's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    1,684
    Quote Originally Posted by Mattlikestobike View Post
    what would happen if there really is air in the line? At the moment, the brake power is alot stronger than before, and feels a long more responsive. How can i telll there is air in the line?
    There are a lot of places for air to hide in the lines. Usually the best way to tell if there is air in the lines is if your brakes feel mushy or spongy. When you squeeze the lever the oil is displaced from the master cylinder and pushes the pistons in the caliper. Oil is for all intents and purposes incompressible which would give you a solid feel at the lever. Air contrarily is very compressible, therefore if you have air in your line your lever will feel mushy.
    2012 Intense M9
    2012 Pivot Mach 5.7 Carbon
    2008 Look 595
    2007 Custom Litespeed Sewanee

  18. #18
    ballbuster
    Reputation: pimpbot's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Posts
    12,702

    Well... you can.... I guess

    Quote Originally Posted by Mattlikestobike View Post
    Hi all,

    I just came back from the LBS dissapointed because they do not have shimano Mineral Oil, since i need to bleed my hydrolic shimano deore lx brakes. The guy that i asked said i can use baby mineral oil from walgreens or CVS...

    does this really hold up to be true? I was alittle skeptical because I would think Bike mineral oil would have slightly different compounds to work with the gaskets, seals, and overall, be a much nicer fluid without air bubbles, compared to mineral oil, that is applied on a baby..

    Thanks
    -Matt
    I heard of folks doing it wtih okay results. I personally would not run it that way unless my brakes needed work the night before a race, all the shops were closed and I had no otehr choice. Shimano puts seal conditioners in their mineral oil, as well as specing their brakes for a specific viscosity.

    Shimano brakes are so common, I'm surprised your LBS doesn't stock the fluid. I say pick up the phone and call around. Some shop has to have it. Also, FInish Line sells brake mineral oil too.... probably comes out of the same 55 gallong drums.

    I say don't be cheap and hold out for the right stuff. If you start having sticky pistons or sluggish lever issues down the road, at least you can't blame the wrong fluid.
    Last edited by pimpbot; 09-27-2011 at 07:08 PM.

  19. #19
    ballbuster
    Reputation: pimpbot's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Posts
    12,702

    $24...

    Quote Originally Posted by jeffgre_6163 View Post
    Take or leave these comments as you will.
    You need to make your own descisions based on what you decide.

    However, based on advice I received years ago I have been running 2.5 wt mineral based fork oil in my Shimano brakes for years with no dramas what so ever.

    Reasoning being the fork oil, as opposed to std mineral engine oil, has additives designed for contact with seals etc and is not engineered to work at high temps.
    I do know of a couple of guys who run std sewing machine oil or 3 in 1 handy man oil.
    I make no comment on these options other than to say that if thats all I had lying around and it was race eve and I was stuck I would use it in a blink.

    Shimano charges around $15.00 for a 250ml bottle for their "Special" brake oil.
    Quality mineral engine oils can be had for $40.00 for 5 lts

    Shimano = $60.00 per liter
    Engine oil = $8.00 per liter

    Once again Shimano is laughing all the way to the bank at riders expense.
    There is no possible way they can justify that mark up.
    ... a liter here:

    Amazon.com: Shimano Brake Fluid 1-Liter: Sports & Outdoors



    *edit* Wups... $8 shipping. Still.....

    and a liter is a lifetime supply.

    I have two sets of shimano brakes, changed hoses a few times when I was having issues. had them apart for various reasons. I've been using basically 5 or 6 of those tiny bottles that came with my brake sets, and I have yet to need to restock.

  20. #20
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Posts
    6,656
    Quote Originally Posted by Mattlikestobike View Post
    wow! my LBS said to replace the oil every 4-6months. I did the bleed myself, because the LBS was charging $50 on 1 caliper/lever... $100 total before tax..

    i really dont understand why the LBS is charging that much, for such a simple job..
    No way I'd open up my brakes that often to flush it. Every time you open the system, you take a chance of introducing some contamination. If the lever feels good I leave it alone.

    It's mineral oil, not DOT brake fluid. My current bike is a 09, never flushed it either and it working fine.
    OG Ripley v2
    Carver 420 TI

  21. #21
    ballbuster
    Reputation: pimpbot's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Posts
    12,702

    Um... shot in the dark here....

    Quote Originally Posted by Mattlikestobike View Post
    wow! my LBS said to replace the oil every 4-6months. I did the bleed myself, because the LBS was charging $50 on 1 caliper/lever... $100 total before tax..

    i really dont understand why the LBS is charging that much, for such a simple job..



  22. #22
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Posts
    387
    Awesome, thanks guys.. I can't really tell the difference between spongy vs a good flush.. I might go to the LBS and see what the guy thinks, since i chat up with him commonly.

    As for the liter of shimano, ill be buying that soon.

  23. #23
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Posts
    387
    Quote Originally Posted by TwoTone View Post
    No way I'd open up my brakes that often to flush it. Every time you open the system, you take a chance of introducing some contamination. If the lever feels good I leave it alone.

    It's mineral oil, not DOT brake fluid. My current bike is a 09, never flushed it either and it working fine.
    Wow, really?

    I would think you want to replace the brake fluid often, as much as the guy at the LBS said "4-6 months", because riding in such dusty enviroments, in my mind, would reduce performance of the oil, and cause tears in gaskets/o-rings.... but this is coming from a 1/8 buggy rc racer, this makes the most sense to me.

  24. #24
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Posts
    2,787
    I'm with the group that thinks 4-6 months is excessive.

  25. #25
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Posts
    6,656
    Quote Originally Posted by Mattlikestobike View Post
    Wow, really?

    I would think you want to replace the brake fluid often, as much as the guy at the LBS said "4-6 months", because riding in such dusty enviroments, in my mind, would reduce performance of the oil, and cause tears in gaskets/o-rings.... but this is coming from a 1/8 buggy rc racer, this makes the most sense to me.
    If you're getting dust into a sealed hydraulic brakes system, you've got other problems that a flush wont fix.

    Think about, even cars, which DOT fluid is hygroscopic only recommend flushes every 2 years. Nothing about a mountain bike hydraulic system with mineral oil says to me it ever needs to be flushed unless you have problems.
    OG Ripley v2
    Carver 420 TI

  26. #26
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Posts
    3,034
    Aircraft hydraulic & brake fluid. It's very likely the same stuff that's in the Shimano bottles, and it's actually designed for use in brake & hydraulic systems. $8.25 a quart plus a few bucks in shipping to get it to your door.

    MIL-PRF-5606H BRAKE FLUID from Aircraft Spruce

  27. #27
    KVW
    KVW is offline
    Law abiding citizen
    Reputation: KVW's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Posts
    510
    In cars, you need to occasionally replace the brake oil and such because of condensation and water migration. Eventually your fluid becomes watered down per se. I suppose this wouldn't be much of an issue unless your bike sat outside all year long.

    When I got in to wrenching Mustangs, I used to ask some of the more knowledgeable buddies, when should i clean and re-oil my K&N air filter? Like after how many miles... They would respond with "clean it when it's dirty". And end it like that - on purpose. The clue they wanted me to get of course was to not clean it unnecessarily, use common sense and do it when it's obvious. In this case, I would imagine, rather than just blindly replacing it every 4-6mo cuz the shop said to, replace it when it needs it (feels mushy). Who knows, maybe you'll get 6 years of it too. lol

  28. #28
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Posts
    6,656
    Quote Originally Posted by KVW View Post
    In cars, you need to occasionally replace the brake oil and such because of condensation and water migration. Eventually your fluid becomes watered down per se. I suppose this wouldn't be much of an issue unless your bike sat outside all year long.

    When I got in to wrenching Mustangs, I used to ask some of the more knowledgeable buddies, when should i clean and re-oil my K&N air filter? Like after how many miles... They would respond with "clean it when it's dirty". And end it like that - on purpose. The clue they wanted me to get of course was to not clean it unnecessarily, use common sense and do it when it's obvious. In this case, I would imagine, rather than just blindly replacing it every 4-6mo cuz the shop said to, replace it when it needs it (feels mushy). Who knows, maybe you'll get 6 years of it too. lol
    That's why I'm being specific about Shimano brakes and why I like them. Some of the other brands use DOT fluid which is hygroscopic- absorbs water out of the air, which would probably need flushing every once in a while.
    OG Ripley v2
    Carver 420 TI

  29. #29
    mtbr member
    Reputation: mtbnozpikr's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    1,684
    Quote Originally Posted by TwoTone View Post
    That's why I'm being specific about Shimano brakes and why I like them. Some of the other brands use DOT fluid which is hygroscopic- absorbs water out of the air, which would probably need flushing every once in a while.
    Exactly, mineral oil does not absorb water like DOT fluid does.
    2012 Intense M9
    2012 Pivot Mach 5.7 Carbon
    2008 Look 595
    2007 Custom Litespeed Sewanee

  30. #30
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Posts
    3,034
    Mineral oil doesn't absorb water but it still needs to be changed every once in a while. After enough time in the brake system, the anti-wear and anti-corrosion additives will deplete and the mineral oil will start to oxidize and break down from repeated exposure to high temperatures.

    How long this takes depends on how much & how hard you ride your bike, I've gone up to 4 years between changes but I've also gone down to less than a year. If your brakes are getting hot enough to start fading on every ride and you're going through brakes pads like candy you'll want to replace the fluid every year at the minimum. If it takes you 3 years to wear out a set of pads you can get away with replacing the fluid every 3-5 years.

  31. #31
    mtbr member
    Reputation: mtbnozpikr's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    1,684
    Quote Originally Posted by aerius View Post
    Mineral oil doesn't absorb water but it still needs to be changed every once in a while. After enough time in the brake system, the anti-wear and anti-corrosion additives will deplete and the mineral oil will start to oxidize and break down from repeated exposure to high temperatures.
    Good point and very true.
    2012 Intense M9
    2012 Pivot Mach 5.7 Carbon
    2008 Look 595
    2007 Custom Litespeed Sewanee

  32. #32
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Posts
    493
    Shimano wants 25 bux for a liter of mineral oil?
    I just used some mineral oil from CVS pharmacy.
    8 bux for a liter.
    I don't need a pink tint to my mineral oil.
    Also, Mineral Oil from CVS is thicker, so my brakes feel a hair sluggish as a result.
    Last edited by egebhardt; 01-27-2017 at 01:01 AM.

  33. #33
    i also unicycle
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Posts
    2,044
    shimano recommends against using anything but their mineral oil as it's specifically made for their brakes. I've seen magura fluid wreck seals in shimano brakes and vice versa. sure using generic mineral oil will probably work on a technical level but it won't be good for anything and will degrade performance, especially in heat handling. as infrequently as you should need to change the fluid in your brakes, it's not that big of an expense. even if you somehow manage to need frequent bleeds, you only need a tiny bit of oil to do that, not a full fluid change.
    mtbr says you should know: i work in a bike shop.
    bikes & beers (on my blog) http://idontrideenough.blogspot.com/

  34. #34
    inexperienced at large
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Posts
    1,861

    mixing

    Does anyone know about mixing finish line mineral oil with shimano mineral oil?

    Is it okay to use at all in my XTR brakes, or am I being a paranoiac?

  35. #35
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Posts
    33
    I'm new to the mtb scene..Riding and working on dirt bikes for years.We ride KTM's they use a hydraulic clutch. and yes KTM recomends the magura juice. I've used atf(automatic trans. fluid)and motorcycle fork oil(7 wt or 10wt)for years along with 1,0000's of other KTM owners. so i will probabls go this route when i flush/change my fluids

  36. #36
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Posts
    8
    Magura Blood 16 oz....$17 at Jenson ships for $6

  37. #37
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Posts
    493
    I just used some Belray 5wt fork oil. It's a light green. These are some new BR-9000 XTR Race brakes. The 5wt seems to be about the same as the Shimano pink stuff as far as rubbing it between my fingers. The brake lever feels the same as before.

  38. #38
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Posts
    10,835
    Quote Originally Posted by egebhardt View Post
    I just used some Belray 5wt fork oil. It's a light green. These are some new BR-9000 XTR Race brakes. The 5wt seems to be about the same as the Shimano pink stuff as far as rubbing it between my fingers. The brake lever feels the same as before.
    Petroleum product may affect the seals. Keep us apprised.

  39. #39
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Posts
    6,656
    Quote Originally Posted by egebhardt View Post
    I just used some Belray 5wt fork oil. It's a light green. These are some new BR-9000 XTR Race brakes. The 5wt seems to be about the same as the Shimano pink stuff as far as rubbing it between my fingers. The brake lever feels the same as before.
    Quote Originally Posted by eb1888 View Post
    Petroleum product may affect the seals. Keep us apprised.
    This- I've never understood cheaping out on something as important as brakes. Hopefully the seals don't fail when you need them the most.
    OG Ripley v2
    Carver 420 TI

  40. #40
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Shakester's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Posts
    1,557
    I've been using Bleed Bicycles oil for a long time and never had a problem with it. Works great. Been using their brake pads as well with no problems.

    Brake Fluids - Bleed Bicycles, LLC

  41. #41
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Posts
    6,656
    Quote Originally Posted by Shakester View Post
    I've been using Bleed Bicycles oil for a long time and never had a problem with it. Works great. Been using their brake pads as well with no problems.

    Brake Fluids - Bleed Bicycles, LLC
    So you're using genuine Shimano Mineral Oil
    OG Ripley v2
    Carver 420 TI

  42. #42
    since 4/10/2009
    Reputation: Harold's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Posts
    20,088
    I bought a bulk jug of Shimano mineral oil. Cost per bleed is pretty low. I know there won't be problems with the fluid and the seals. Not sure why some insist on using something else and risk screwing up their brakes with an incompatible fluid?

  43. #43
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Posts
    421
    Quote Originally Posted by egebhardt View Post
    I just used some Belray 5wt fork oil. It's a light green. These are some new BR-9000 XTR Race brakes. The 5wt seems to be about the same as the Shimano pink stuff as far as rubbing it between my fingers. The brake lever feels the same as before.
    rip

  44. #44
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2015
    Posts
    594
    If I had to do it today, and couldn't get shimano I'd go to the auto store and get finish line or catsol. But as pointed out cheap on amazon.

  45. #45
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Posts
    5
    The manufacturers such as Shimano of course recommend using their own oils / fluids. But the main thing is to use the right kind, meaning if your system runs on mineral oil, don't use DOT fluid and the other way around. That'll mess up the seals (like mentioned before). Here's some differences between the fluids listed if you're interested.

    Brake fluids

  46. #46
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2016
    Posts
    85
    I am new to bikes so you would want to look into this. But allot of KTM Dirt bike riders actually use just pure baby oil that you can get at your local Walmart. As KTM clutches require this ridiculously expensive mineral oil.

    Its super cheap and you will get enough to last you years.

    Anyways just something to look into.

  47. #47
    Bat Fastardson
    Reputation: RHEL's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Posts
    95
    I didn't even think they made hydraulic brakes when this thread was started. ;-)
    All's well that ends.

  48. #48
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Posts
    2,091
    Quote Originally Posted by RHEL View Post
    I didn't even think they made hydraulic brakes when this thread was started. ;-)
    I got a liter back when they were just starting to add sound to black and white movies. Still going strong. Take that, DOT fluid!

  49. #49
    since 4/10/2009
    Reputation: Harold's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Posts
    20,088
    Quote Originally Posted by noapathy View Post
    I got a liter back when they were just starting to add sound to black and white movies. Still going strong. Take that, DOT fluid!
    boom!

  50. #50

  51. #51
    Positively negative
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Posts
    2,175
    "mineral oil is an unfortunate term to use because it is so vague and generic. The term mineral oil can describe a lot of different compounds. It’s kind of like the term salt, which refers to much more than just table salt. Most of us are probably aware that the mineral oil that you buy at the drug store is not the same as the mineral oil we use in brakes, but that extends to different brands of mineral oil brake fluid as well. We should really call it “proprietary brake fluid” but I guess that doesn’t have the same ring to it. I can tell you with absolute certainty that Magura fluid will destroy Shimano brakes in a very short amount of time. I’ve seen it happen several times. The rubber seals in the system have to be specifically designed to interact with a specific brake fluid. If you use a different fluid, the seals will interact differently. Specifically, when you put Magura fluid in Shimano brake, the lever feels spongy and the pad contact point changes because the square edge seal at the caliper is breaking free from the piston at a different time.

    There are third party companies that make mineral oil brake fluid and it says right on the bottle that it is compatible with all mineral brakes. Shimano has never approved a third party brake fluid to be compatible with our brakes and we never will. How is it possible that one fluid can work in both Magura and Shimano brakes if Magura fluid destroys Shimano brakes?"

    https://www.bikerumor.com/2013/04/11...-disc-updated/

  52. #52
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    3,443
    A buddy of mine told me that his friend went to the local McDonalds and gave the manager $20 for 10 gallons of used cooking oil from the French fryers. Claims he is set for life now for brake bleeds.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  53. #53
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Bigjunk1's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Posts
    255
    I have not did a full bleed with regular mineral oil but I have added to existing fluid with the dollar a bottle pharmacy mineral oil while changing calipers or levers. Works fine with no issues for years.
    Regular mineral oil works fine for me but Shimano would likely say otherwise. Buy the expensive stuff if it bothers you, use regular mineral if your cheap like me or in a pinch.

  54. #54
    RAKC Industries
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Posts
    1,372
    The stuff from the pharmacy is completely different than what's used in brakes. Suspension/brake mineral oil for motorcycles/cars is fine but the supplement from the pharmacy is not a good idea.

    Don't need to pay Shimano prices unless your buying a big bottle which then price isn't bad at all. I use finish line stuff, no issues for 3 years now.

    Sent from my XT1565 using Tapatalk
    Life on a bike doesn't begin till the sun goes down.

    US partner for ITUO and Ravemen:
    www.rakcindustries.com

  55. #55
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Bigjunk1's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Posts
    255
    Quote Originally Posted by RAKC Ind View Post
    The stuff from the pharmacy is completely different than what's used in brakes. Suspension/brake mineral oil for motorcycles/cars is fine but the supplement from the pharmacy is not a good idea.

    Don't need to pay Shimano prices unless your buying a big bottle which then price isn't bad at all. I use finish line stuff, no issues for 3 years now.

    Sent from my XT1565 using Tapatalk
    Although pharmacy grade and brake grade mineral oil likely have some differences (red coloring, weight?) they are both the same type oil. I am pretty sure there are 3 types of mineral oil and the pharmacy oil is of the same type as that used in brakes. I am no expert but I do know that Shimano brakes work fine with pharmacy type mineral oil because I have used it, so mechanically it is OK to use. I would assume that unless a mineral oil had an additive that damaged the internals of the brakes that there is no real problem using it or chance of damaging anything. Pharmacy grade oil is safe to eat and lasts forever and is 99.9% mineral oil so not much room for anything harmful. All the mineral oil really needs to do is hold pressure, not leak and not corrode.
    If someone has real scientific reasoning why pharmacy grade mineral oil is unsafe I would be curious to know. As I said, my brakes have had a mix of regular mineral oil and brake mineral oil for a few years now and never a problem.

  56. #56
    RAKC Industries
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Posts
    1,372
    Iirc the only real "issue" is for those that get their brakes seriously hot. Either works fine under most circumstances but if your one that pushes your brakes hard then you could notice issues.

    Difference is in additives. The additives are "supposed" to stabilize the mineral oil at extreme temps

    How much of that is actually true for Shimano or other MTB fluid, I have no idea. I just stick with what's meant for the purpose till, like you, someone shows proof one way or the other.

    No matter whether you go bike specific mineral oil or pharmacy stuff it's still always going to be better than using any brakes that use DOT fluid.

    Sent from my XT1565 using Tapatalk
    Life on a bike doesn't begin till the sun goes down.

    US partner for ITUO and Ravemen:
    www.rakcindustries.com

  57. #57
    since 4/10/2009
    Reputation: Harold's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Posts
    20,088
    So let me get this straight...

    We're all spending anywhere from several hundred to several thousand dollars on our bikes...and we're getting bent out of shape about spending a few extra bucks for the fluid that's made to work in our brakes?

  58. #58
    RAKC Industries
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Posts
    1,372
    Welcome to cycling.

    Sent from my XT1565 using Tapatalk
    Life on a bike doesn't begin till the sun goes down.

    US partner for ITUO and Ravemen:
    www.rakcindustries.com

  59. #59
    Magically Delicious
    Reputation: Cleared2land's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Posts
    5,595
    Mineral oil intended for machinery or brake systems is more commonly referred to as ‘Hydraulic Mineral Oil’ has a multitude of additives. Most commonly, they contain anti-foaming agents to reduce foaming under high heat applications, corrosion inhibitors, and anti-wear agents. This mineral oil is has a lower viscosity than drug store mineral oil.

    ‘Drug Store' Mineral Oil, is somewhat thicker and heavier than hydraulic mineral oil. And, the stuff we use as humans is used as a laxative, usually contains perfume and consumable additives along with shelf life stabilizers.
    A bad day of cycling is better than a good day at work

    Work Truck - Dassault Falcon 7X

  60. #60
    since 4/10/2009
    Reputation: Harold's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Posts
    20,088
    Just what I need...laxative in my brake lines.

  61. #61
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Posts
    6,656
    Quote Originally Posted by Harold View Post
    So let me get this straight...

    We're all spending anywhere from several hundred to several thousand dollars on our bikes...and we're getting bent out of shape about spending a few extra bucks for the fluid that's made to work in our brakes?
    That's what always amazes me. Reminds me of the frame protection thread, where people were saying $80-100 for a precut 3m kit was too much, yet it's for a carbon frame that's at least $2500.
    OG Ripley v2
    Carver 420 TI

  62. #62
    Magically Delicious
    Reputation: Cleared2land's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Posts
    5,595
    It is pretty interesting that we spend whatever we elect to spend on bikes ($1000 - $10,000) and some find the space to whimper about spending $20 (or less) on a liter of Shimano Brake Fluid that should last the average Joe many years of service and bleeds. Damn, this stuff doesn't even have a opened container shelf life like DOT fluid does. WTF?
    A bad day of cycling is better than a good day at work

    Work Truck - Dassault Falcon 7X

  63. #63
    RAKC Industries
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Posts
    1,372
    It's not just cycling. It's what things are being made more cheaply. They want to look cool but don't want to pay for it.

    Biggest issue is that people are stuck with the mind set that if a product costs $100 then the company paid $10 for it. Which is so far from the truth. But no one cares.

    Sent from my XT1565 using Tapatalk
    Life on a bike doesn't begin till the sun goes down.

    US partner for ITUO and Ravemen:
    www.rakcindustries.com

  64. #64
    Positively negative
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Posts
    2,175
    Quote Originally Posted by Harold View Post
    So let me get this straight...

    We're all spending anywhere from several hundred to several thousand dollars on our bikes...and we're getting bent out of shape about spending a few extra bucks for the fluid that's made to work in our brakes?
    Seriously, you're going to risk ruining a set of brakes and putting your safety at risk to save what, ten bucks a year. If that.

    Hell, I'd pay ten bucks a ride if it would insure I wouldn't have to cut it short due to a mechanical.

  65. #65
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Posts
    574
    Quote Originally Posted by Harold View Post
    Just what I need...laxative in my brake lines.
    It'll make you go faster.

  66. #66
    Magically Delicious
    Reputation: Cleared2land's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Posts
    5,595
    Hmmm...
    A bad day of cycling is better than a good day at work

    Work Truck - Dassault Falcon 7X

  67. #67
    Giant Reign 27.5 2 LTD
    Reputation: ka81ua's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Posts
    184
    so, what's the best alternative?? Liqui Molly, Castrol, Motul, ...............................
    OK

  68. #68
    mtbr member
    Reputation: mack_turtle's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Posts
    6,544
    I will just stick to Shimano oil. Not worth the risk and the stuff is not that expensive!

  69. #69
    RAKC Industries
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Posts
    1,372
    Just buy the proper fluid. Unless your dealing with 50 bikes there is no reason to test and be cheap. Hell even finish line has a bottle that's last my 5 yrs across to bikes.

    Sent from my XT1565 using Tapatalk
    Life on a bike doesn't begin till the sun goes down.

    US partner for ITUO and Ravemen:
    www.rakcindustries.com

  70. #70
    Giant Reign 27.5 2 LTD
    Reputation: ka81ua's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Posts
    184
    Its not about cheap . Im sure there are even better oils by quality..
    OK

  71. #71
    RAKC Industries
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Posts
    1,372
    It's mineral oil, you can buy "the best there is" and all your going to end up with is slightly thicker or thinner oil.

    Since most are design around use in conditions far different than what bicycles see the additives and such can effect performance.

    Seeing as people have ridden several years using Shimano fluid and the fluid has never been cause for concern not has it caused any failures there isn't any real reason to try and find "better".

    That said I'm trying to remember which brand mineral oil is what finish line uses (it's green) but I remember it being the same as one of the top mineral oil brands. I only have it because when I bought it I needed it NOW and that's all that I could get my hands on. Only to do some digging and find that it's the same as one of the high end brands of mineral oil.

    Sent from my XT1565 using Tapatalk
    Life on a bike doesn't begin till the sun goes down.

    US partner for ITUO and Ravemen:
    www.rakcindustries.com

  72. #72
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Posts
    6,656
    Quote Originally Posted by ka81ua View Post
    Its not about cheap . Im sure there are even better oils by quality..
    Over 10 year old 4 pot XT brakes that have never been bled and still work as well as they did when I put them on.

    How much better does it need to be?
    OG Ripley v2
    Carver 420 TI

  73. #73
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Mr Pig's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Posts
    7,105
    Quote Originally Posted by TwoTone View Post
    Over 10 year old 4 pot XT brakes that have never been bled and still work as well as they did when I put them on. How much better does it need to be?
    This ^

    Shimano make arguably the most reliable brakes on the planet and you think you can improve them? How?

  74. #74
    RAKC Industries
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Posts
    1,372
    Quote Originally Posted by TwoTone View Post
    Over 10 year old 4 pot XT brakes that have never been bled and still work as well as they did when I put them on.

    How much better does it need to be?
    Why I stick with Shimano brakes. Reliable as hell (except m8000s when they first came out), don't use DOT fluid which is not something I want anywhere near my bike. Being a Auto tech most of my life you learn how nasty that crap truly is. It makes sense for motorized vehicle use due to conditions it has to deal with but just stupid on bicycles because our brakes will NEVER experience anything of what vehicles will with the exception of extreme cold.

    Sent from my XT1565 using Tapatalk
    Life on a bike doesn't begin till the sun goes down.

    US partner for ITUO and Ravemen:
    www.rakcindustries.com

  75. #75
    Magically Delicious
    Reputation: Cleared2land's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Posts
    5,595
    Quote Originally Posted by ka81ua View Post
    Its not about cheap . Im sure there are even better oils by quality..
    You're looking for something better than the OEM fluid?

    You trolling?
    A bad day of cycling is better than a good day at work

    Work Truck - Dassault Falcon 7X

  76. #76
    Giant Reign 27.5 2 LTD
    Reputation: ka81ua's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Posts
    184
    nope..
    you think "shimano mineral oil" IS shimano manufatured?..
    anyway, there are different oils by quality.
    OK

  77. #77
    Magically Delicious
    Reputation: Cleared2land's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Posts
    5,595
    ^^^ Nope, I think everyone here recognizes that Shimano is not in the lubrication business and that their re-branded lubricants are manufactured by someone else. However, I do believe that Shimano's brake fluid is spec'd to Shimano's specific standards.

    There have been many threads on MTBR and many other bike threads addressing this very subject and it has been long theorized that Shimano Brake Fluid is a derivative or exact MIL-Spec of a common mineral based aircraft hydraulic fluid commonly known as MIL-PRF-5606H. It smells, looks and feels the same. It's intended to be compatible with synthetic rubber seals.

    So while this has never been completely validated, if you think that you'll find a higher quality than a military specified standard for a brake fluid, keep looking.
    A bad day of cycling is better than a good day at work

    Work Truck - Dassault Falcon 7X

  78. #78
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Posts
    242
    Bunch of whusses. I used mineral oil from CVS in my Shimano brakes for lie 4 years with no problems. It works just as well as big business name scare tactics.

  79. #79
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Posts
    6,656
    Quote Originally Posted by shwndh View Post
    Bunch of whusses. I used mineral oil from CVS in my Shimano brakes for lie 4 years with no problems. It works just as well as big business name scare tactics.
    Wear tin foil for a helmet?
    OG Ripley v2
    Carver 420 TI

  80. #80
    Magically Delicious
    Reputation: Cleared2land's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Posts
    5,595

    Reporting For Duty...

    Name:  c068027acb6c51224259b776d20df9ae.jpg
Views: 2020
Size:  10.6 KB
    A bad day of cycling is better than a good day at work

    Work Truck - Dassault Falcon 7X

  81. #81
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Posts
    242
    The proof is in the experience. I bought the bike in 2011 and the brakes wee not firm enough from new. The bike shop wouldn't do anything about it so I got mineral oil and bled hem myself. I was going to replace with XTs anyway but they kept on working well from hen on. Now it's 2017 and those brakes are still rock solid with no leaks.

    Also, I used Maxima anti foaming 10wt oil in my Fox Float for years with no problems as well.

    You can do what you want but the fact of the matter is, some things are not as complicated as they're presented to be. These companies want you to believe the have some magic unicorn oil but it's just rebranded oil and there are variances to what mixtures can be used in particular applications. If you're scared, go with OEM, if you want to try something different, do your homework and try something different. They do the same thing.

  82. #82
    Magically Delicious
    Reputation: Cleared2land's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Posts
    5,595
    My take on Shimano Brake fluid is one of convenience. It's about $20 a liter and locally available. Additionally, unlike DOT brake fluid, it doesn't absorb moisture and does not have a shelf life once opened. For me, a liter will last about five years. $20 over five years is a bargain.

    For those who live in other countries where gaining access to Shimano branded mineral oils is difficult or expensive, then that's a clear justification for finding alternatives. And, alternatives can be found.

    I have been running XT brakes for about ten years and have never once had to bleed my brakes because of a compromise of failed seals or air entrainment. All of my bleeds have really not been bleeds to remove air per say, but rather a regular purging of old brake fluid with fresh fluids.
    A bad day of cycling is better than a good day at work

    Work Truck - Dassault Falcon 7X

  83. #83
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Posts
    242
    Quote Originally Posted by TwoTone View Post
    Wear tin foil for a helmet?
    I use a Bell helmet from Walmart.

  84. #84
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Posts
    2,241
    Quote Originally Posted by Cleared2land View Post
    My take on Shimano Brake fluid is one of convenience. It's about $20 a liter and locally available. Additionally, unlike DOT brake fluid, it doesn't absorb moisture and does not have a shelf life once opened. For me, a liter will last about five years. $20 over five years is a bargain.

    For those who live in other countries where gaining access to Shimano branded mineral oils is difficult or expensive, then that's a clear justification for finding alternatives. And, alternatives can be found.

    I have been running XT brakes for about ten years and have never once had to bleed my brakes because of a compromise of failed seals or air entrainment. All of my bleeds have really not been bleeds to remove air per say, but rather a regular purging of old brake fluid with fresh fluids.
    This ^^^^

    Still have more than half a bottle that I bought nine years ago. Plus, I likely used more of it servicing my freehubs than in the brakes.

  85. #85
    mtbr member
    Reputation: mack_turtle's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Posts
    6,544
    Quote Originally Posted by shwndh View Post
    I use a Bell helmet from Walmart.
    You didn't have to respond to that, but you took the bait. It makes you sound even more defensive and paranoid. Your response to my post will confirm this.

  86. #86
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Posts
    242
    Quote Originally Posted by mack_turtle View Post
    You didn't have to respond to that, but you took the bait. It makes you sound even more defensive and paranoid. Your response to my post will confirm this.
    Hold up just a sec. My response to this post is to set YOU straight. The title of this post is "Shimano Mineral Oil alternatives?" I share my experience with cheap stuff that has been working fine for almost 6 years. I get tagged with an insult, and I'm the one that's defensive and paranoid? You guys are scaring everyone from buying anything but Shimano's oil with no proof of damage that has been done, but I'm the one that's paranoid. If that's your reasoning, fine, label me as a cheap-@ss, but I sure ain't paranoid about using non-Shimano mineral oil in my brakes or using my cheap-@ss Walmart helmet. Bunch of whusses. Big name bike companies love you.

  87. #87
    RAKC Industries
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Posts
    1,372
    Quote Originally Posted by shwndh View Post
    The proof is in the experience. I bought the bike in 2011 and the brakes wee not firm enough from new. The bike shop wouldn't do anything about it so I got mineral oil and bled hem myself. I was going to replace with XTs anyway but they kept on working well from hen on. Now it's 2017 and those brakes are still rock solid with no leaks.

    Also, I used Maxima anti foaming 10wt oil in my Fox Float for years with no problems as well.

    You can do what you want but the fact of the matter is, some things are not as complicated as they're presented to be. These companies want you to believe the have some magic unicorn oil but it's just rebranded oil and there are variances to what mixtures can be used in particular applications. If you're scared, go with OEM, if you want to try something different, do your homework and try something different. They do the same thing.
    Actually your final sentence is 100% wrong.

    First thing is there is nothing wrong with not using specifically branded lubricant or fluid that matches what you have. But you saved a little money by using a different fluid vs Fox fluid. It won't perform the exact same but doesn't mean it isn't perfectly fine to use. I use that brand of oil as well. Works good in a damper but their fluid for fork lowers isn't good at dealing with stiction at all.

    Yes Shimano oil is rebranded.

    Yes it's base is mineral oil.

    No they do not do the same thing.

    IIRC your system wasn't completely full of base mineral oil, just used to top off over Shimano fluid?

    Pharmacy mineral oil is very basic, 0 additives. But FAR from the same thing.

    -Different viscosity
    -lack of additives for corrosion protection, temperature stabilization, seal conditioning and so on.

    So you have had good luck, you ride in pretty consistant riding conditions. Those of us that actually have a winter, deal with highly corrosive environments and so on would have trashed our brakes by now or be cussing them out for not working right if we went your route. It's not the moderate temperature range performance, it's the protection and consistant performance across wildly different conditions that is required by most.

    So before saying that we are falling in line due to scare tactics actually only proves you didn't do your homework. Otherwise you would understand the reason why additives are used. Your reasoning would also mean that pure water performs the same in cars as antifreeze mix. Or that any oil will work in an engine, power steering and transmissions.

    Basic mineral oil has been OK for you but it just will cause failures for the majority of riders. There are alternatives but a 0 additive mineral oil isn't a good recommendation because it's not engineered for the purpose.

    PS:. I don't have Shimano fluid ATM, use an alternative myself because it's what was available, and I did my homework and found that pharmacy stuff is a bad idea for where I live and ride.

    Sent from my XT1565 using Tapatalk
    Life on a bike doesn't begin till the sun goes down.

    US partner for ITUO and Ravemen:
    www.rakcindustries.com

  88. #88
    mtbr member
    Reputation: mack_turtle's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Posts
    6,544
    Quote Originally Posted by shwndh View Post
    . Big name bike companies love you.

    Thank you for proving my point. I am sure Shimano used $100 bills to light their cigars with all the cash they make from selling mineral oil to whussies like me. I spend a fortune on the stuff, especially since I bleed Shimano brakes once every... rarely.

  89. #89
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Posts
    242
    Quote Originally Posted by RAKC Ind View Post
    Actually your final sentence is 100% wrong.

    First thing is there is nothing wrong with not using specifically branded lubricant or fluid that matches what you have. But you saved a little money by using a different fluid vs Fox fluid. It won't perform the exact same but doesn't mean it isn't perfectly fine to use. I use that brand of oil as well. Works good in a damper but their fluid for fork lowers isn't good at dealing with stiction at all.

    Yes Shimano oil is rebranded.

    Yes it's base is mineral oil.

    No they do not do the same thing.

    IIRC your system wasn't completely full of base mineral oil, just used to top off over Shimano fluid?

    Pharmacy mineral oil is very basic, 0 additives. But FAR from the same thing.

    -Different viscosity
    -lack of additives for corrosion protection, temperature stabilization, seal conditioning and so on.

    So you have had good luck, you ride in pretty consistant riding conditions. Those of us that actually have a winter, deal with highly corrosive environments and so on would have trashed our brakes by now or be cussing them out for not working right if we went your route. It's not the moderate temperature range performance, it's the protection and consistant performance across wildly different conditions that is required by most.

    So before saying that we are falling in line due to scare tactics actually only proves you didn't do your homework. Otherwise you would understand the reason why additives are used. Your reasoning would also mean that pure water performs the same in cars as antifreeze mix. Or that any oil will work in an engine, power steering and transmissions.

    Basic mineral oil has been OK for you but it just will cause failures for the majority of riders. There are alternatives but a 0 additive mineral oil isn't a good recommendation because it's not engineered for the purpose.

    PS:. I don't have Shimano fluid ATM, use an alternative myself because it's what was available, and I did my homework and found that pharmacy stuff is a bad idea for where I live and ride.

    Sent from my XT1565 using Tapatalk
    When I said "they do the same thing" I'm not saying the oils work the same way. I was trying to say that companies try different mixtures of oils before they brand their name on it for their products. The point is, you can use other oils besides what they prefer. There are better things to do besides a 0 additive mineral oil and if you do your homework, you can find them. You don't have to be locked in to one product. That was my point.

    Next, do you have any first hand experiences with brake failures using 0 additive mineral oil? If so, please share that; we are aware of the theory.

    Next, "do your homework" means, just what you did. You found that pharmacy mineral oil did not work for you (I assume) where you live so you used something else. I use it where I live and it works fine. Basically, you use what works for you. If it didn't work for me, i would have experimented with something else because I wanted to see what else would work.

    I'm not advocating that people use exactly what I use, but it think its absurd to get shot down for suggesting other quality oils as some have mentioned earlier. Mine was an extreme case to show that you can use other stuff. That's what I meant.

  90. #90
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Posts
    2,091
    I have better things to do with my time than find an alternative to something that costs me about $1 per decade and works great.

    When Fox quit selling their green 10wt fluid I found an alternative for that (Fox Red 10wt). Whew, that was tough! (oh wait, no it wasn't...it's on their website)

    Since I just remembered I saved a bunch of time, time to go ride instead of...

  91. #91
    Magically Delicious
    Reputation: Cleared2land's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Posts
    5,595
    Quote Originally Posted by shwndh View Post
    If you're scared, go with OEM, if you want to try something different, do your homework and try something different.

    Quote Originally Posted by shwndh View Post
    Bunch of whusses. Big name bike companies love you.

    Quote Originally Posted by shwndh View Post
    ... its absurd to get shot down for suggesting other quality oils as some have mentioned earlier.
    Who suggested another QUALITY oil and got shot down for it?

    Pentosin CHF 7.1 has been suggested and it's a commonly known, high quality replacement or alternative hydraulic mineral oil for Shimano brake fluid.

    Drug store mineral oil that's considerably thicker than intended hydraulic mineral oil contains perfume and consumable additives along with shelf life stabilizers and is commonly recommended to be used as a laxative. I failed to a see perfumey laxitive as a QUALITY oil to be used on my brakes when the real thing is not expensive or difficult to acquire.

    No one is scared about not buying Shimano brake fluid, it's just that considering the alternatives, their availability and cost compared to the recommended product isn't anything substantial.

    It's your inability to understand the cost/value concept enough to want you try an unproven drug store alternative to save $5. Really?

    And, in a wonderful demonstration of self, you reference those who use a recommended and known-quantity brake fluid as scared wusses.

    Sometimes it's better to remain quiet, and thought a fool, than to open the mouth and remove all doubt.
    A bad day of cycling is better than a good day at work

    Work Truck - Dassault Falcon 7X

  92. #92
    Positively negative
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Posts
    2,175
    Can someone explain to me why we are arguing against the use of something that works perfectly, is inexpensive, and radially available?

  93. #93
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Posts
    6,656
    Quote Originally Posted by big_papa_nuts View Post
    Can someone explain to me why we are arguing against the use of something that works perfectly, is inexpensive, and radially available?
    Because spending a few hours to research and find alternatives that saves you a penny over 10 years and shafts the big corporation that uses scare tactics on us simpletons is so worth it..
    OG Ripley v2
    Carver 420 TI

  94. #94
    mtbr member
    Reputation: mack_turtle's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Posts
    6,544
    Classic thread status.

    Useful info: I recently tried bleeding my SLX brakes with Finish Line brake fluid. This product is advertised as being compatible with Shimano brakes. I flushed all the old fluid out with this new oil and it seemed fine at first.

    On the trail, though, both brakes felt squishy. I have bled Shimano brakes dozens of times and I feel confident that this was a good bleed. I bled again using a few dollars worth of Shimano oil and the brakes have been perfect ever since. Maybe another, cheaper alternative exists, but saving pennies is not worth the peace of mind. There are expensive, overpriced items in the bicycle market and brake fluid is not one of them.

    Also relevant- I am super cheap, so cheap that I make my own tubeless sealant rather than buy Stan's. That's in a totally different category of product though.

  95. #95
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Mr Pig's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Posts
    7,105
    Quote Originally Posted by TwoTone View Post
    Because spending a few hours to research and find alternatives that saves you a penny over 10 years and shafts the big corporation that uses scare tactics on us simpletons is so worth it..
    I don't think there is a single thing you've just said that I agree with. Shimano make high-quality brakes that are as reliable and easy to service as anything else on the market at any price. Better than most in fact, and the brakes are at least price competitive, if not better, in terms of value. Who are they shafting exactly?

    And if you are talking about the oil, it's not expensive either and, considering the way it performs, it is clearly a very good oil.

    What scare tactics? Telling you that you could seriously compromise the function and reliability of your brakes by using the wrong oil is not an idle threat. It's a fact.

    So looking for alternative oils is, in my opinion, one-hundred percent not worth it. Unless you're the kind of guy who can pick a fight in an empty room? If it makes you feel big, slaying this imaginary dragon, then please continue. Knock yourself out.

  96. #96
    mtbr member
    Reputation: J.B. Weld's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Posts
    7,565
    sar·casm
    ˈsärˌkazəm/
    noun
    the use of irony to mock or convey contempt.
    "his voice, hardened by sarcasm, could not hide his resentment"
    synonyms: derision, mockery, ridicule, scorn, sneering, scoffing; More
    I brake for stinkbugs

  97. #97
    RAKC Industries
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Posts
    1,372
    Ya I think Pig missed the sarcasm there.

    It just hit me it's about once a year this "alternative fluid" thread thing pops up.

    Readily available option (need it in a hurry cause last I checked can't get Shimano fluid with Amazon prime) makes sense. Trying to find something to outperform Shimano fluid...Not going to happen.

    Sadly a lot of companies have catching up to do in terms of the reliable performance of Shimano brakes. Too many companies "over thought" the designs. Shimano design may not be for everyone but when it comes to brakes that just work and keep working, Shimano is on top by miles.

    Sent from my XT1565 using Tapatalk
    Life on a bike doesn't begin till the sun goes down.

    US partner for ITUO and Ravemen:
    www.rakcindustries.com

  98. #98
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Mr Pig's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Posts
    7,105
    Quote Originally Posted by RAKC Ind View Post
    Ya I think Pig missed the sarcasm there.
    Did. Guilty.

Similar Threads

  1. Shimano Mineral Oil?
    By The Spork in forum Eastern Canada
    Replies: 67
    Last Post: 09-24-2013, 10:14 PM
  2. Shimano mineral oil vs Tektro's mineral oil
    By Cruzoff in forum Brake Time
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 07-09-2008, 06:31 PM
  3. Alternatives to Shimano Mineral oil?
    By ATOMICned in forum Brake Time
    Replies: 10
    Last Post: 03-07-2008, 06:01 PM
  4. Replies: 12
    Last Post: 06-16-2007, 07:40 AM
  5. Shimano Mineral oil alternatives
    By jdubs in forum Brake Time
    Replies: 5
    Last Post: 07-02-2004, 11:31 PM

Members who have read this thread: 160

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •