1. The most important thing about buying a new bike is to make sure it fits. The only way you'll know if the bike is right for you is to size up the bike and make sure that the bike's geometry matches your body's geometry. Ask questions and do some research.
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2. If possible, try to find a shop that will let you demo the bike on real dirt. Five minutes in a parking lot won't cut it. You wouldn't buy a car without a real world test drive, and a bike should be no different.
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  1. #1
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    Shifting technique?

    Ok, so I havent really ridden in years and im about to get back at it. I hear alot about people shifting improperly causing their derailluers to fall out of adjustment. The shifter/derailluer setup on my bike is as follows.....

    shifters SRAM X4, trigger
    front derailleur SRAM X7, trigger
    rear derailleur SRAM X4


    What should I avoid shifting wise in order to keep these moving freely? X7 rears can be had for less than $50 so I will most likely upgrade it this winter.

  2. #2
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    I would say the basics don't shift peddaling up a short,steep climb. Keep it clean(simple green) and keep it lubed. With the models your running if you really put on alot of miles on you'll be upgrading!

  3. #3
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    Im hoping to get a year or two out of this setup before I upgrade bikes, I maxed out my current budget this year on bike.

  4. #4
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    I'm currently unemployed I understand about saving money! Also, many people actually have a shifting problem and then look past it chain skips off there easiest gear into rear wheel and rips the whole drivetrain or similar situations. So if you want it to last and notice that your having a shifting problem fix it sooner than later! Trust me when about the simple green as well,just keeping your drivetrain nice and clean will help!

  5. #5
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    Don't know what the pro's do, but know what works for me. Never shift under big load. So if your going uphill, push real hard for a few rotations, ease off and shift, then keep pushing. I try to only shift front derailleur when on somewhat smooth sections, and again, not under big loads.
    Don't fall into the who's is better, or upgrading to the latest and greatest BS. If your bike rides, ride it. If/when something breaks, upgrade if you wish.
    Round and round we go

  6. #6
    What could go wrong ...
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    Here is some good INFO
    I used to ride to Win ... Now I ride to Grin

    While my guitar gently weeps, my bike sits there mocking me

  7. #7
    local trails rider
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    Shifting under heavy load was already mentioned... shift in a place where the trail allows pretty gentle pedaling.

    Shifting the front is slow. Do it in a place where you have a second or two to do it.

    Avoid combinations where the chain has to go from extreme left to extreme right, or the other way. "Cross chaining" puts an unnecessary load on the components.

    If your shifting becomes erratic, the cable is one usual suspect. A bent rear derailer hanger is another.

    "it IS possible that you are faster or slower than anybody else who is having at least as much if not more or less fun"

  8. #8
    workin' it Administrator
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    Number one cause of chain/derailleur problems is poor adjustment. Cables, being wound stainless steel have a tendency to get stretched over time causing the derailleurs to get out of adjustment. The rear derailleur hanger has a tendency to get hit on things causing it to get bent slightly.

    All these things can contribute to catastrophic drivetrain failures, the broken chain, the derailleur shifted into the spokes, the torn off derailleur hanger and all this can be prevent with routine maintenance. Check out the Park Tools website for how to set your derailleurs, keep the tuned, review their shift performance before every ride, don't lay your bike on its derailleur side, and keep it all properly lubed.

    That and as others have mention shift when shifting is appropriate, under light loads, anticipate climbs where shifting is needed, shift before you need, coast in, avoid the cross chaining, if you bash into things with your cranks a lot get a chainguard to protect your chain and replace your chain every season or every 1000-2000 miles (depending on your weight, climate etc) or check for chain wear and replace that chain whenever it needs it. A chain is always way more economical than chainrings and cassettes.
    Try this: HTFU

  9. #9
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    Good Noob info! Thanks to all!

  10. #10
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    replace shift with s.h.i.t. and this thread becomes hilarious

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by donkeykong0 View Post
    replace shift with s.h.i.t. and this thread becomes hilarious
    Lol, it is good for a pretty good chuckle.
    2010 Giant Yukon FX
    Pure XCR Wheelset/Geax Saguaro Tires/Tubeless
    Bike Weight Lost: 2.48lbs (1124g)

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