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Thread: Shifting Issues

  1. #1
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    Shifting Issues

    Just bought a barely used NRS3, loving the bike and cant wait to race it for the first time next weekend and to upgrade it over the next few months with new components!

    Anyways, the only problem I have with the bike in its current state is it tends to self shift. Rarely on flat areas does it do this but it does do it a lot in certain gear ranges when on an incline. Its like its between gears and a bump or incline makes it shift to a different gear then the one I chose.

    I am trying to learn how to fix/adjust things on my own (especially since I will be doing upgrades myself) and was hoping you guys can help me out on troubleshooting what this issue is.

    I would assume its a common issue.

    Thanks!

  2. #2
    Old Punk
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    Tighten or loosen the barrel adjuster on the cable housing and this will move the position of your daraileur. There are also +/- adj screws on the deraileur that adjust the stop point when it is topped or bottomed out.
    Good luck, you'll figure it out in no time.
    '09 Specialized Rockhopper expert 29
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    '07 Specialized Allez

  3. #3
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    Also. Make sure your drivetrain isn't all gunked up. A dirty chain and sprockets can cause major headaches.
    '09 Specialized Rockhopper expert 29
    Born 26" trials
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  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by curtboroff View Post
    Tighten or loosen the barrel adjuster on the cable housing and this will move the position of your daraileur. There are also +/- adj screws on the deraileur that adjust the stop point when it is topped or bottomed out.
    Good luck, you'll figure it out in no time.
    Sorry to be so Noobish but where is the "cable housing"? I know what the derailer is and where it is, but not the "cable housing".

    Thanks for the help!!

  5. #5
    nocturnal oblivion
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    Read this and give it a go, if you still have trouble post up the problem: http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-...nts-derailleur
    The cable housing barrel adjust referred to above is "index setting" on the instructions, to be done after you set the high and low adjustments.
    Before you even begin you should have a clean chain and gears. It's really easy to do once the proper order is learned.
    "...like sex with the trail." - Boe

  6. #6
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    Cable housing is just the outer layer that the steel cable actually runs through, usually black plastic. At one end or the other there will be a knob that can be turned to effectively shorten or lengthen the cable between the shifter on your handlebars and the derailleur. By adjusting this, you should notice the derailleur moving in(towords the frame) if you tighten, or out(away from the frame) if you loosen. Make small adjustments, 1/4 turn or so at a time.

    Tinker away and you will see. Don't be afraid to mess up, it's the best way to learn. Just don't force anything and you will be ok.
    '09 Specialized Rockhopper expert 29
    Born 26" trials
    '07 Specialized Allez

  7. #7
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    That park site posted by stumblemumble will get you through most bicycle maintenance tasks step by step.
    http://www.sheldonbrown.com/ is another site for everything bicycle maintenance.
    '09 Specialized Rockhopper expert 29
    Born 26" trials
    '07 Specialized Allez

  8. #8
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    You guys rock!

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    Speaking of Shifting issues.
    I too am on the path of becoming my own bike mechanic. Is it acceptable or normal to have chain rub on your front derailleur. I've been trying to dial in my front derailleur, but I always manage to have a little rub when I shift the chain to the high or low side of my cassette. I only manage to get rid of one or the other.

    Also its a Marin Bolinas Ridge 29er nothing high end I'm beginning to think that its acceptable on an $800 3x8.

  10. #10
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    Chasing that rub will most certainly get you familiar with your drivetrain adjustments. If you feel it's centered good than I wouldn't worry to much.
    The chain line should be straight through the center of the front derailleur with the front and rear in the middle rings for a baseline, then adjust to fit the gears you use most.
    '09 Specialized Rockhopper expert 29
    Born 26" trials
    '07 Specialized Allez

  11. #11
    InsaneObiker...dasss mee!
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    ummm guys ya'll are definately forgetting.... if its shifting like it is it generaly means the cassette and chain need replaced!!!!! all the adjustment in the world wont do a bit of good when things are just wore out !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

  12. #12
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    ^^^^^^****
    What's with all the!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!?
    More than welcome to give your .02 worth. But you don't need to be so !!!!!!!!!!!!!! about it.
    '09 Specialized Rockhopper expert 29
    Born 26" trials
    '07 Specialized Allez

  13. #13
    nocturnal oblivion
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    Quote Originally Posted by FroggyBiker View Post
    ummm guys ya'll are definately forgetting.... if its shifting like it is it generaly means the cassette and chain need replaced!!!!! all the adjustment in the world wont do a bit of good when things are just wore out !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
    Nothing he states describes a worn out drivetrain.
    "...like sex with the trail." - Boe

  14. #14
    InsaneObiker...dasss mee!
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    curtboroff get some manners! PARDON ME if the freakin key stuck!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!... OHHH and by the way mouthy.... I have built more custom bikes in 26 years than im sure you have ever even seen so shut your mouth about MY 2 cents worth....... I make 100$ an hour!.....2 cents hell try 30$ minmum labour doofus!....... so watch who you mouth off to!!!!

  15. #15
    nocturnal oblivion
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    Quote Originally Posted by FroggyBiker View Post
    curtboroff get some manners! PARDON ME if the freakin key stuck!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!... OHHH and by the way mouthy.... I have built more custom bikes in 26 years than im sure you have ever even seen so shut your mouth about MY 2 cents worth....... I make 100$ an hour!.....2 cents hell try 30$ minmum labour doofus!....... so watch who you mouth off to!!!!
    What the OP says is that the cassette is trying to "self shift". You're saying it's a worn chain and cassette? Please do enlighten us how you came to this conclusion instead of the rear derailleur needing to be tuned.
    "...like sex with the trail." - Boe

  16. #16
    Fat-tired Roadie
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    Quote Originally Posted by pattongb View Post
    Just bought a barely used NRS3, loving the bike and cant wait to race it for the first time next weekend and to upgrade it over the next few months with new components!

    Anyways, the only problem I have with the bike in its current state is it tends to self shift. Rarely on flat areas does it do this but it does do it a lot in certain gear ranges when on an incline. Its like its between gears and a bump or incline makes it shift to a different gear then the one I chose.
    First of all, congratulations.

    You've already been given a few suggestions as to where the problem is. Here's one more - on full-suspension bikes, if the housing run from the frame to the linkage is too short or routed funny, sometimes compressing the suspension all the way makes the housing taut, potentially increasing cable tension. There's your shift. To confirm it with an air shock, you could let all the air out and compress the suspension all the way. Make sure you won't damage the shock (probably fine, but never hurts to read manuals.) I'm not sure how one would do it with a coil shock - you could try reducing the preload all the way, but the spring rate might still be too high to compress it all the way by hand.

    Racing is lots of fun. For the first one, focus on riding a clean race, and finishing. You can try to beat some people next time. In beginner class, if you do have a clean race and finish, you'll probably do fairly well.
    "Don't buy upgrades; ride up grades." -Eddy Merckx

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by FroggyBiker View Post
    curtboroff get some manners! PARDON ME if the freakin key stuck!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!... OHHH and by the way mouthy.... I have built more custom bikes in 26 years than im sure you have ever even seen so shut your mouth about MY 2 cents worth....... I make 100$ an hour!.....2 cents hell try 30$ minmum labour doofus!....... so watch who you mouth off to!!!!
    Buy some anger management with your $100 an hour you snooty fukc.
    Keys don't get stuck on dikchead either. At this point, we don't need excuses from you, just silence! I'm sure the op can figure out how to fix his problem without some pompous ass comments.

    Go troll somewhere else turdboy!
    Hehehe
    '09 Specialized Rockhopper expert 29
    Born 26" trials
    '07 Specialized Allez

  18. #18
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    Sorry pattongb, I needed to swat a fly.
    I hope that we helped you before the vinegar and water train rolled in.
    '09 Specialized Rockhopper expert 29
    Born 26" trials
    '07 Specialized Allez

  19. #19
    nocturnal oblivion
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    Quote Originally Posted by AndrwSwitch View Post
    First of all, congratulations.

    You've already been given a few suggestions as to where the problem is. Here's one more - on full-suspension bikes, if the housing run from the frame to the linkage is too short or routed funny, sometimes compressing the suspension all the way makes the housing taut, potentially increasing cable tension. There's your shift. To confirm it with an air shock, you could let all the air out and compress the suspension all the way. Make sure you won't damage the shock (probably fine, but never hurts to read manuals.) I'm not sure how one would do it with a coil shock - you could try reducing the preload all the way, but the spring rate might still be too high to compress it all the way by hand.

    Racing is lots of fun. For the first one, focus on riding a clean race, and finishing. You can try to beat some people next time. In beginner class, if you do have a clean race and finish, you'll probably do fairly well.
    Very good point, didn't think of it.
    "...like sex with the trail." - Boe

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by AndrwSwitch View Post
    First of all, congratulations.

    You've already been given a few suggestions as to where the problem is. Here's one more - on full-suspension bikes, if the housing run from the frame to the linkage is too short or routed funny, sometimes compressing the suspension all the way makes the housing taut, potentially increasing cable tension. There's your shift. To confirm it with an air shock, you could let all the air out and compress the suspension all the way. Make sure you won't damage the shock (probably fine, but never hurts to read manuals.) I'm not sure how one would do it with a coil shock - you could try reducing the preload all the way, but the spring rate might still be too high to compress it all the way by hand.
    This happens a lot on bikes where the shift cable is routed under the bottom bracket shell (the part of the frame that holds the crankset).

    ================

    If you can't get it adjusted, you may have worn out chain, cassette, and or chainrings.

  21. #21
    InsaneObiker...dasss mee!
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    actualy its real simple..... it skips while climbing...... when your rear end skips that way it means either its worn or the teeth are damaged... either way they canot provide enough grip.... and as to how I know it... 26 years experience riding some of the roughest stuff around.... as well as learing the hard way many years ago and I still have the scars to remind me! I was climbing a loose rock strwn incline when mine did it.... and sheared teeth off the cog, snapped the chain, and sent me flyin! hurt like hell!!! an out of adjustment rear derailure does'nt do that it just shifts screwy... which if out of adjustment bad enough can cause sheared teeth as well.... from shifting under load, which should never be done to begin with

  22. #22
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    The suspension things makes a lot of sense. I have the bike in the shop today so they can adjust the shock pressure settings for the back shock and front fork to my body weight and set the bike to an almost "no zag" settng. The increased tension may eliminate much of my shifting issues as the bike will spend less time "compressed".

    As for the cassette, I hate to agree with Mr. "I make $100 an hour.." but the rear cassette does appear to have some worn teeth through the middle gear ranges. I will look to replace it asap.

    Thanks to everyone for the advice and help! I am already getting nervous about my race and its still 6 days away! Cant imagine what it will be like on race day!

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by FroggyBiker View Post
    curtboroff get some manners! PARDON ME if the freakin key stuck!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!... OHHH and by the way mouthy.... I have built more custom bikes in 26 years than im sure you have ever even seen so shut your mouth about MY 2 cents worth....... I make 100$ an hour!.....2 cents hell try 30$ minmum labour doofus!....... so watch who you mouth off to!!!!
    Wow!!! That is impressive! You must **** a lot of ****'s in that hour!

  24. #24
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    The increased tension in the suspension has not helped, in fact the bike shifted worse. Its definetely an adjustment issue (if not related to a worn chain and teeth).

    Whats the best way to fine tune a derailer? The shifting problems only incur on inclines, cant really check the problem when riding on the street.

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by pattongb View Post
    The increased tension in the suspension has not helped, in fact the bike shifted worse. Its definetely an adjustment issue (if not related to a worn chain and teeth).

    Whats the best way to fine tune a derailer? The shifting problems only incur on inclines, cant really check the problem when riding on the street.
    the one 'ghost-shifting-gremlin' that has made me nutz has always been dirty cable housing.

    swap out your housing and cables to see if that works.

    my .02

    * no, i did not read the thread before i posted *
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    Interesting. Thats something I will try.

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