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Thread: Shifter help

  1. #1
    TJM
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    Shifter help

    I have Sram X7 shifters and front derailleur and an X9 rear derailleur. Something in there is giving me some trouble. For some reason I can hear this grinding noise every time I pedal which goes away if I hold down the front up shifter.

    The front shifter takes a long time to work too - sometimes I'll shift and the chain will just grind and occasionally skip for up to two or three minutes. By then sometimes I don't even need to shift anymore.

    The rear did that the other day too, so I think it's something that is getting worse.

    I'd like to figure out how to work on this myself, if that's possible.

    Thanks

  2. #2
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    You need to adjust the cable tension on the front derailleur, probably the rear too. Don't touch the limit screws until you understand what they do. Don't touch the rear B-tension screw, it is very rare that you'll ever need to adjust that.

    Front: Park Tool Co. » ParkTool Blog » Front Derailleur Adjustments
    Rear: Park Tool Co. » ParkTool Blog » Rear Derailler Adjustments (derailleur)

    Start here and let us know how it goes.
    Don't you hate it when a sentence doesn't end the way you think it octopus?

  3. #3
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    I agree, although the front limit screw could be out a little too. The grinding noise is probably the chain rubbing on the front derailleur cage. Usually happens if the cable stretches over time and should be sorted by increasing the tension at the shifter.

  4. #4
    TJM
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    Ill try it out tonight and let you know. Is there a barrel adjustment for this issue? I read somewhere there is but can't find any documentation on it.

  5. #5
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    If you do have a barrel adjuster its usually located right on the rear D at the end of the cable housing some set ups have this some don't. I know for a fact the X7 shifter has an adjuster that will also adjust the cable tension with ease. just look at the end of the cable housing at the shifter.

  6. #6
    TJM
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ronnieron12 View Post
    If you do have a barrel adjuster its usually located right on the rear D at the end of the cable housing some set ups have this some don't. I know for a fact the X7 shifter has an adjuster that will also adjust the cable tension with ease. just look at the end of the cable housing at the shifter.
    Ok I think mine has that. I wish I could figure out how to put photos up on here so you could see what I'm looking at. If that's what I have, which way tightens the cable?

  7. #7
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    You screw the adjuster out to tighten the cable.

  8. #8
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    There is no barrel adjuster on a SRAM rear derailleur. The only places adjusters would be (possibly) found are as the cable exits the shifter (definitely an adjuster here), possibly an adjuster 'inline' on the housing, or possibly if you have an interrupted housing there could be one where the housing is terminated near the top tube/head tube/down tube junction.

    Most likely, it's just at the shifter, so use that one. Same goes for the front derailleur.

    If the noise is coming from the rear derailleur, look at the top jockey wheel on the rear derailleur from behind the bike and see if it lines up perfectly with the gear on the cassette. If it's a little toward the outside, turn the adjuster out from the shifter to move the rear derailleur inward. Turn the adjuster inward to move the derailleur toward the outside if it's inward from lining up with the cog on the cassette.

  9. #9
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    This guy is spot on with front & rear mech adjustments.
    Mountain Bike Rear Derailleur Adjustment & Indexi…: Mountain Bike Rear Derailleur Adjustment & Indexing - YouTube

  10. #10
    TJM
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    Ok sorry for the lag, I was out of town over the holiday.

    Update: The barrel adjustment didn't do it, maybe made it worse. Tomorrow I plan to try again following along with park tools or the you tube vids posted above (thanks for the suggestions!).

    I will let you know how that works out.

  11. #11
    TJM
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    Ok I got the front dr fixed to where it shifts properly. The rear is still off; on the two largest diameter rings I have to hit the shifter twice to get it to move the chain to the next smaller ring. Then I noticed when it's on the smallest ring, the rear dr is almost parallel to the ground, and the chain is rubbing against itself - from the underside of the front ring on the rear dr and the top of the chain where it is heading back to the front chainrings. I hope that makes sense of what I'm looking at here - not sure how to upload pics so I'm relying on text.

    EDIT: According to the Park Tool web site the front dr is also a little too high. There should be a space of 1-2mm between the chainring and the front dr but I have at least 5 or 6mm.

  12. #12
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    When it's on the smallest rear gear and the chain is rubbing against itself, are you on the smallest front chain ring?
    A rule of thumb that I use is not to be using small to small.
    Or your chain is too long.
    ...Terry
    not sure if anyone has posted this:
    Derailer Adjustment

  13. #13
    TJM
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    Sorry, thought I posted a reply to this...

    Yes its smallest to smallest when the chain is running over itself - I guess I shouldn't do that, gearing wise?

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by TJM View Post
    Sorry, thought I posted a reply to this...

    Yes its smallest to smallest when the chain is running over itself - I guess I shouldn't do that, gearing wise?
    Correct. Same thing goes with the big-big (diameter) combo. Spend most of your time in the middle ring.
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  15. #15
    TJM
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    My front rings only have two - large and small, no middle ring.

    Or a medium and large, if you work at Dominos

  16. #16
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    You want to avoid cross chaining cause dat don't work.
    And even if you can it will wear out your chain rings and jockey wheels prematurely.

    Two additional things for the rear.
    Look down from above and determine if the hanger is bent to make the derailleur tilted left or right or twisted clockwise or the reverse. For a tilt you can grab the derailleur at the top and bend it with your precision hands. For twist you need to carefully use a lockjaw or big pliers. You can take it in. A lbs has a gauge.

    For slow downshifts I have found the housing/ferulles/cable to often be the problem.
    The second thing is the housing and ferrules may need replacing. The cable isn't enough.
    Full length drill out the stops and use the Jagwire/Novara $19 kit from REI will totally transform the quality of lower grade shifting including X7. It is Teflon lined and the cable is stainless and coated. The ferrules are plastic and going full length reduces the number to two. Superglue the cable before cutting. You have to use the good cutters or take the cable to the lbs. Round the end on sandpaper and open the housing end after you cut it. Add a couple drops of silicone lube at assembly.

  17. #17
    TJM
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    It's a near new bike so nothing should be worn out - i think its an assembly issue.

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