1. The most important thing about buying a new bike is to make sure it fits. The only way you'll know if the bike is right for you is to size up the bike and make sure that the bike's geometry matches your body's geometry. Ask questions and do some research.
mtn. biking 101
2. If possible, try to find a shop that will let you demo the bike on real dirt. Five minutes in a parking lot won't cut it. You wouldn't buy a car without a real world test drive, and a bike should be no different.
3. Don't belive the hype. Just because your favorite rider or best friend rides a certain bike, that doesn't mean that's the best one for you. Have an open mind and be realistic about your needs and ability.
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  1. #1
    mtbr member
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    Apr 2010
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    Scott Sportster for singletrack?

    Sorry, but I posted this in a few different forums as I wasn't sure where these questions fit best.

    I have a 2009 Scott Sportster P3. When I bought the bike I was really just looking for something to ride on the rails to trails with the family and on the road. I used to be a hardcore roadie, and began to get burnt out, so I sold my road bike and decided to get this bike and have fun riding again. We also have some great single track in my area and I figured with this bike I could ride some of the trails with it also. Well I've found myself having a ton of fun riding the single track now. Does anyone else use this bike for single track? Will it hold up to the abuse of mountain biking? I will not be doing any jumps or anything like that. Just single track with roots and rolling over some smaller logs and whatnot.

    So far it's been really dry when I've gone so I've been OK with the Continental Double Fighter II tires that came stock on it, but I would like to get something more mountain bike oriented for when it's a little muddy. I'm thinking I'm probably going to have to go with a cyclocross tire due to the lack of frame clearance. I'm just wondering if anyone else has messed around with this sort of thing yet?

    Other than the frame clearance issue and not being able to get a ture 29er tire on the bike what is the difference between this bike and a 29er? I'm guessing that maybe the 29er geometry is more upright?

    Thanks for any input. I'm absolutely loving this bike. I'm having so much fun riding again. Yeah it's way heavier than my road bike was and I go slower on the roads than my road bike, but it's is so much fun looking for the bumps on the road then trying to avoid them all the time.

  2. #2
    AKA Dr.Nob
    Reputation: gumbymark's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2007
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    887
    OK coupla things:

    1/ and you know this anyway. That bike is not a "mountainbike". It was not built for the trails. But I am not going to say that something will instantly fail at the first rock. If you are a smooth rider who rides smooth(ish) trails then I doubt you will have any catastrophic failure but long term durability may be an issue. If your not a smooth rider and/or take it down high speed rocky descents then I would be worried about a wheel folding, the cranks bending or the fork breaking (unlikely but the fork for me is a big unknown).

    2/ You will be unlikely to get anything bigger than a 40mm cyclocross tire under the back of that bike. Narrow tires will be prone to punctures from sharp hits.

    3/ I'll compare your bike to my Giant XTC 29ers geometry (XL Scott to 20" (L) XTC).
    The giant is a little longer in the top tube but comes with a shorter stem,

    It also has shorter chainstays (and I would be willing to bet a shorter wheel base as well)

    The Giants headtube length is 100mm, the Scotts is 120mm so the Giants bars can be lowered more than the Scotts (this is assuming the Scotts fork axle to crown measurement is the same as the Giants, I couldn't find any info on the Suntour fork).

    The headtube and seat tube angles are a touch steeper in the Scott.

    So if anything I would say (equilivent sized bikes) the Giant is shorter and lower (at the front).
    Not that all teenagers are evil mind, just most of them.

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