1. The most important thing about buying a new bike is to make sure it fits. The only way you'll know if the bike is right for you is to size up the bike and make sure that the bike's geometry matches your body's geometry. Ask questions and do some research.
mtn. biking 101
2. If possible, try to find a shop that will let you demo the bike on real dirt. Five minutes in a parking lot won't cut it. You wouldn't buy a car without a real world test drive, and a bike should be no different.
3. Don't belive the hype. Just because your favorite rider or best friend rides a certain bike, that doesn't mean that's the best one for you. Have an open mind and be realistic about your needs and ability.
Results 1 to 12 of 12
  1. #1
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    RS JUDY SL and Pilot SL

    I would like some comments on JUDY SL and Pilot SL (2005) please. Which is the best of the two? Thanks.

  2. #2
    The Weatherman
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    Not sure if this will help you, but I am fairly certain that the Pilot series is a better fork than the Judy.

    My 2001 Trek 6700 had a Judy SL equipped on it (stock) and I ran that fork for 4 years. At the end of that four years I started to notice serious bottoming out on minor gravity cavities, etc.

    I upgraded to the Pilot XC and the difference was huge! I believe the Pilot XC is a step above the Pilot SL, but it should give you an idea.

    The Pilot series should be better than the Judy.

    By the way, I think in 2006 RockShox phased out the Pilot/Judy series and now have new names for them. J-Series, Tora, and Recon I think.

  3. #3
    ride hard take risks
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    Pilot!!! Judy is junkwa i have a 6 year old one here if you want it. It was on my sons DJ bike, he weights 105 & can bottom it with ease. Replaced with Manitou Black Platinum, huge differance. You wont be dissapointed with the Pilot, you will be so happy you'll have a RST breaking party.

  4. #4
    The Weatherman
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    Correction:

    I just got back from my ride, and my current fork is the '05 Pilot SL. So I can definitively give this fork a positive recommendation. After I swapped out the old Judy SL fork the change was immediately noticeable.

    You won't be be disappointed with the Pilot SL.

  5. #5
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    And the Pilot wins!!!!

    Thanks guys I got the pilot after all. It looks a bit complicated though after I m used to an elastomer/spring RST. And the travel is huge compare to the RST. Is that how is supposed to be? It feels stiffer too (although I haven't been on a trial yet). I can see you can adjust how much air you put in but the bike shop said they put what is supposed to be according to my weight. Do you know any sites I can find more about the pilot? I am searching but I cannot find anything technical.

  6. #6
    ride hard take risks
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  7. #7
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    thanks a lot

  8. #8
    ride hard take risks
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    Quote Originally Posted by Markleo
    thanks a lot
    Glad it is helpfull, just make shure to ride more than read.

  9. #9
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    Yes thats true . Just one more question. Should the suspension forks be stiff or soft? In my head is that they should work on small obstacles too. Why did the shop make them so stiff (according to my weight)? It is a bit confusing this matter in my head. I guess I will find out when I ride. Trial and error. But in general how should they be?

  10. #10
    The Weatherman
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    Quote Originally Posted by Markleo
    Yes thats true . Just one more question. Should the suspension forks be stiff or soft? In my head is that they should work on small obstacles too. Why did the shop make them so stiff (according to my weight)? It is a bit confusing this matter in my head. I guess I will find out when I ride. Trial and error. But in general how should they be?
    The LBS should have given you the Pilot User Manual, but the online version posted a few messages ago should work fine.

    Stiffness or softness really depends on what you are riding. If you are expecting a bumpier ride with lots of downhill, rocks, roots, small drops, etc, then I would probably extend the travel on the fork prior to that section of the trail.

    If you are just riding smooth, buff singletrack, you really don't need that much travel. Same goes for long fire road climbs, limestone trails, and basic commuting. Most of the times in these situations I just lock the fork out.

    After you play around with your new fork a bit, you won't even think about it anymore. You will just know when it needs an adjustment.

    Enjoy the fork. They're great!

  11. #11
    ride hard take risks
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    Start with manufacture recomendations for set up. Fork bushings & seals need to break in so they are generally stiff, stiction, when new. Break in varies from fork to fork & amount of riding, can be as simple as 1 week might be as long as 1 month. You basicly want the fork to bottom on hard impacts yet be plush in the mid stroke area. Sag depends on you i like it a little stiff just off initial sag, rougher on the trail but better for agressive AM/DH type riding. Does that make sense?

  12. #12
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    Thanls a lot you have been really helpful. I have tried the fork it is so much different than the RST. It feel stiffer but it's alright. I put a zip to see how much travel \i use and \i used less than a thirt. The bike shop recomended to take a bit of air out. I did, just a bit but \i will aso wait to see if it softens by itself like you said since it is new. Also the front end feels so much lighter!!

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