1. The most important thing about buying a new bike is to make sure it fits. The only way you'll know if the bike is right for you is to size up the bike and make sure that the bike's geometry matches your body's geometry. Ask questions and do some research.
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2. If possible, try to find a shop that will let you demo the bike on real dirt. Five minutes in a parking lot won't cut it. You wouldn't buy a car without a real world test drive, and a bike should be no different.
3. Don't belive the hype. Just because your favorite rider or best friend rides a certain bike, that doesn't mean that's the best one for you. Have an open mind and be realistic about your needs and ability.
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  1. #1
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    Replacement rims and tires for my Avalanche 1.0?

    Hey guys, I hope this is the right place to post.
    Quite the selection here

    I've just inherited an Avalanche 1.0. It was my friends, and (he's fine by the way) was hit by a car while riding and has given up as a result. He's also leaving the country, so in short, now it's mine, but it has a very badly bent rim on the front, plus a sizable puncture in it's tubeless tire.
    The brake disc still rides pretty evenly without too much runout.
    The rear, just a hint of tire wobble, but otherwise things look good.

    I guess my question is, if the rim is structurally sound, and not crimped in any places, can it be trued and bent back? While it's the shape of a pringle, it looks amazingly undamaged up close. Just not particularly round any more

    Tires need replacing also. They are currently Kenda Nevegal tubeless, and pretty worn down, and as I mentioned, the front has a puncture.
    So repairable rims? And regardless can anyone recommend possible upgrades for the rims and tires?

    Thanks. It's been a while for me and I'm very out of touch.

    Rob.

  2. #2
    My little friends
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    I've taco'ed front wheels before, and popped them back into shape with no issues. If it is just sprung, it should go back. I would carefully examine all the spokes afterwards for uniform tension. Might be a good idea to run it by your LBS to let them have a look , just to be on the safe side. As for the tires, I have run Nevegals for several seasons now, and am quite happy with their overall performance.

  3. #3
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    I've tried pushing the rims back in the opposite direction, but it's been bent from more than one angle. It is literally pringle shaped. Bent one way, and turned 45 degrees and bent back that way. I could get out the majority of the main deformity, but it's now a whole bunch of smaller bends around the whole circumference.
    Is there perhaps a tool that can be used to true up a rim that might help me? I found that as a whole it's so bouncy I can't get any accuracy by putting the rim over a hard surface and leaning over it.

    I may even get it past this point and discover some more problems with other parts of the bike, as it's currently not in testing shape.

    Thanks for the tire recommendation.

  4. #4
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    If it is bent beyond spinning while on the bike, get a new wheel. Replacing just the rim will cost more than the wheel. The back might be able to be trued. Take it to a shop for an inspection and plan on spending $100 max.
    No, YOU don't understand. You're making an ass of yourself for all of eternity.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by wmac View Post
    If it is bent beyond spinning while on the bike, get a new wheel. Replacing just the rim will cost more than the wheel. The back might be able to be trued. Take it to a shop for an inspection and plan on spending $100 max.
    Can you recommend one? Or is this something I would purchase at a store from individual components and have them build it for me?

  6. #6
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    You could have the shop replace the rim,they will want to use new spoaks and nipples plus the labor it will add up. You could buy a prebuilt wheel from them or online and buy something useble or pricey.

  7. #7
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    I took the wheel to a store and it was found to be DOA.

    The cost to transfer the old hub to a new rim was actually more than simply purchasing a new pre-made wheel. I'm pretty happy with the price and it's a little bit of an upgrade all over.

    One problem though. The valve hole on the new rim is too small for the tube valve. It simply won't go through. The valve fits through the first hole fine but the second that allows the valve through is quite a lot smaller.

    Is this a normal thing? Can I enlarge that hole without hurting the integrity of the rim or is a WTB laserdisc rim meant to be paired with a different tube?

  8. #8
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    Sounds like you have a Schrader tube and a presta rim. Would just need a presta tube. More knowledgable folks please correct me if I'm wrong...
    Mountain biking is like fishing, golf, and sex...you don't have to be good at it to have a great time.

  9. #9
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    I became frustrated and bored the hole wider myself
    It has room enough and I have enough metal working ability to have done a good neat job on it.

    I hardly had to enlarge it at all mind you. And the first hole none.
    How wide is a presta valve hole? I was wondering if it could have been a manufacturing glitch.

  10. #10
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    Name:  presta_vs_schrader.jpg
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    not much difference
    Mountain biking is like fishing, golf, and sex...you don't have to be good at it to have a great time.

  11. #11
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    That'll be it then.

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