1. The most important thing about buying a new bike is to make sure it fits. The only way you'll know if the bike is right for you is to size up the bike and make sure that the bike's geometry matches your body's geometry. Ask questions and do some research.
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2. If possible, try to find a shop that will let you demo the bike on real dirt. Five minutes in a parking lot won't cut it. You wouldn't buy a car without a real world test drive, and a bike should be no different.
3. Don't belive the hype. Just because your favorite rider or best friend rides a certain bike, that doesn't mean that's the best one for you. Have an open mind and be realistic about your needs and ability.
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  1. #1
    mtbr member
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    New question here. Relacing the wheel...

    Hey there.
    I was thinking of putting disc brakes on my bike(2010 Specialized Hardrock, non-disc) so i've been playing with an idea. i'm on a really TIGHT budget, so cant afford set of wheels ($99+). I was thinking of getting disc hubs and re-lacing my stock wheels, Alexrims z1000. By doing so, i would be able still ride my bike with v-brakes and slowly get the rest of the stuff. Any thoughts? any one re-laced the wheels? how hard? Im mechanically inclined,so I think I can do it, plus Youtube...
    Thanx..

  2. #2
    EDR
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    Re: Relacing the wheel...


  3. #3
    R.I.P. DogFriend
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    It's certainly do-able, and your situation is exactly what got me started building wheels.

    That said, you will need to be certain that you have the correct specs for your new disc hub and the ERD of your existing rim so the correct spokes can be ordered. I would highly recommend using brass nipples, and either 14g (2.0mm) straight gauge or 14/15/14 (2.0/1.8/2.0) butted spokes for your first build so you aren't fighting the complications that come with tensioning a wheel using spindlier spokes and/or aluminum nipples.

    Check out the link given above, and then. . . . . . Go for it!

  4. #4
    Fat-tired Roadie
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    I've swapped hubs. It's as much of a pain in the butt as building a new wheel, and sometimes more.

    I guess unless something's wrong with your hubs as they sit, my suggestion would be to wait until you can do the hubs and brakes at the same time.

    If you don't already have aftermarket pads, I highly recommend the Kool Stop salmon pads. You can pretty good performance out of your Vs while you wait.
    "Don't buy upgrades; ride up grades." -Eddy Merckx

  5. #5
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    cool info and advice. I was actually hopping to reuse my original spokes. can I do it? also what's ERD stands for?
    will also ck kool pads.
    thanks

  6. #6
    dru
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    Effective rim diameter............

    If you can't reuse your old spokes your mission becomes cost ineffective.

    Lacing rims is a lot harder than you think.

    A good builder can do a wheel in an hour.

    You will be hours, guaranteed.

    Give it a try, it's the only way to learn.
    occasional cyclist

  7. #7
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    Go for it. I am by no means discounting the skills and knowledge of pro wheel builders -- doing it right is a black art. But just assembling a ridable wheel is no biggie.

    I taco'd my rim on my old bike which I was planning to replace soon, and didn't want to spend any money on it. I swapped the rim with the one off of an old wheel with a shot hub that I had.

    The lacing part really wasn't that difficult -- more time-consuming than truing, but actually easier I thought. I watched a video on YouTube to get the lacing pattern right.

    I didn't have a truing stand at that time. But don't skimp on a good spoke wrench. $15 well spent and it will last a lifetime -- generations actually.

  8. #8
    Picture Unrelated
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    Quote Originally Posted by etboost View Post
    cool info and advice. I was actually hopping to reuse my original spokes. can I do it? also what's ERD stands for?
    will also ck kool pads.
    thanks
    Very unlikely you can re-use spokes and even if you can it often builds up a wheel that ends up with tension issues or truing issues. What you need is that the hub you buy has to have the same flange diameter as the hub that came on your bike. It would also have to have nearly the same hub center to flange distance(s) as well.

    Do some reading about building wheels before you get too far into this project. You might find that this is more complicated than you originally thought or you might find that it's something you'd really like to do. Once you do some reading, find a spoke length calculator and go to work finding out what length spoke you'll need for your new hubs. I've found that most builds can vary spoke length by +/- 2 mm and not have any problems during the build.

    The ERD of your rim is shown to be 599. Between that and this, you should be able to work out your spoke lengths. The issue will be finding the data for the hubs you're looking to buy.

    Building a wheel is more expensive in 90% of the situations you get in to. It's also fun and rewarding. But for pure value, buy a complete wheel or search for a complete used wheel.
    Don't you hate it when a sentence doesn't end the way you think it octopus?

  9. #9
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    the hubs im thinking to use is shimano deore m585a front and rear. any inputs?
    i probably will do it over the winter, so will have plenty of time
    will do all the readings first and maybe will start with new brake pads first...

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by etboost View Post
    the hubs im thinking to use is shimano deore m585a front and rear. any inputs?
    i probably will do it over the winter, so will have plenty of time
    will do all the readings first and maybe will start with new brake pads first...
    If I did all the work for you, what would be the fun of learning to build a wheel?

    Kool Stop pads are awesome and you'll probably find that discs aren't worth the upgrade unless you're buying really nice disc brakes.
    Don't you hate it when a sentence doesn't end the way you think it octopus?

  11. #11
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    Do not re-use old spokes unless you are desperate to keep a bike rolling. Old spokes will not hold up well.

  12. #12
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    I would leave the thing alone and save up a few bucks to buy a set of wheels that are ready to go. I've always found this cheaper in the long run. By the time you buy the hubs, spokes and a truing stand, you'll likely have spent the same amount that you could pick up a cheap set of disc-ready wheels for. And if a cheap set of wheels is way out of your budget for the forseeable future, then I'm figuring a set of brakes and rotors is also a long time off, so it really doesn't do you any good to throw time and money into trying to make your current wheels disc-ready.

  13. #13
    Fat-tired Roadie
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    I've reused old spokes a couple times. My attitude is if they're in good shape, why not?

    The time I swapped a hub, it was mostly because the wheel was relatively new, the original hub was trashed, and I found a replacement with about the same flange diameter. I actually don't think spacing is that big a deal. I reused the spokes in their original groups and four years later, that wheel is still holding its true. If I wasn't so worried about money at the time, I might have just bought a new wheel, but replacing the hub only kept my budget to $5.

    I've also swapped rims. This can be done quickly and easily if it's a 1:1 swap. That was a little more recent, but that wheel's doing fine too. Actually, one of the reasons I like off-the-shelf builds - rim brake bikes ridden in wet weather do need new rims on occasion, but that need only be a $40-$70 fix if the wheel's not disposable.

    The fatigue life of the material is effectively infinite if steel spokes are not mistreated.
    "Don't buy upgrades; ride up grades." -Eddy Merckx

  14. #14
    dru
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    Quote Originally Posted by AndrwSwitch
    I've also swapped rims. This can be done quickly and easily if it's a 1:1 swap. That was a little more recent, but that wheel's doing fine too.
    The fatigue life of the material is effectively infinite if steel spokes are not mistreated.
    I did that once too, which is what gave me the confidence to relace my wheels on the 26er.

    I had picked up the art of truing years before.

    I've only had to do very rare minor tweaks on any of the 3 wheels.

    The jobs are a few years old now and held up great so far.

    Drew
    occasional cyclist

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