1. The most important thing about buying a new bike is to make sure it fits. The only way you'll know if the bike is right for you is to size up the bike and make sure that the bike's geometry matches your body's geometry. Ask questions and do some research.
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2. If possible, try to find a shop that will let you demo the bike on real dirt. Five minutes in a parking lot won't cut it. You wouldn't buy a car without a real world test drive, and a bike should be no different.
3. Don't belive the hype. Just because your favorite rider or best friend rides a certain bike, that doesn't mean that's the best one for you. Have an open mind and be realistic about your needs and ability.
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  1. #1
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    Rear derailler sits at an angle? High-Low adjustments do nothing, PLEASE HELP URGENT

    Derailler model : Shimano Alivio

    I have work tomorrow and I need this fixed. I was messing with it trying to tune it because I noticed it always sat at an angle, towards the spokes. The high and low screws dont tilt it the other way, only more inside. I released the cable tension.The pulley also wiggles a bit, side to side. But I cant tighten it...there's no bolt where it attaches to the main derailleur unit, unless its behind the chain.



    Also the B-tension adjustment screw doesnt do anything noticable. The instructions say its supposed to line up the guide pully closer/further from the sprocket but it doesnt even move. What going on?




    Please give any advice you can think of. I have to bike to work 20 mi tomorrow, my car doesnt work.

  2. #2
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    Are you supposed to remove the cable anchor for both the High and Low adjustment procedures? Or only the high?


    And, is the Rear derailler lever supposed to shift 2-3 times if you push it in all the way once? I dont know if Im just noticing this, but If i push the shifter lever in all the way in, it shifts about 3 sprockets.

  3. #3
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    Hanger is probably bent.

  4. #4
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    Your hanger is bent, you have a low quality derailleur, and you're impossibly far from being able to grasp what any single one of those adjustments is actually for. You need someone to run thru this in person.

  5. #5
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    forget it..
    Last edited by adrianm1188; 07-28-2011 at 10:53 PM.

  6. #6
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    I agree about your hanger being bent. Take the bike to a bike shop. They'll have a tool to use in realigning the hanger. Pay them to fix or replace the hanger and readjust your derailleur.

  7. #7
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    There's no adjustment to fix that, either your lower cage or hanger is bent. It happens, usually from either the derailleur hitting a rock or a stock getting stuck in there.

  8. #8
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    1) Your hanger is bent.
    2) The B-tension screw does actually adjust something, but in very small increments; you won't be able to tell by looking.
    3) I don't know why you'd need to de-tension the cable to adjust the limit screws. High or low.
    4) Yes, most shifters allow you to grab multiple downshifts with one go. Higher end shifters can grab 5 gears with one throw of the shifter (if I'm not mistaken).
    All of the true things I'm about to tell you are shameless lies.

  9. #9
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    Update: My hanger is NOT bent. Straight as an arrow. I'm 100% sure. The problem is that the lower pully arm is loose, it has a bit of wiggle in it where it meets the derailleur. (see picture).


    Worst part is, after taking the derailleur apart, there seems to be no apparent screw/bolt to seat it firmly. It appears to just be pressed in, as in, a machine-press was used to insert it there. Anyone ever deal with this before? Do all derailleur pulleys arms come pressed in?

    If it could have just had a screw there, i could tighten it and the pulley arm would sit flush and the problem would be fix. (I know this because wiggling it back to its original position lines it up vertically perfectly)
    Last edited by adrianm1188; 07-31-2011 at 08:09 PM.

  10. #10
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    any advice could help.


    Im thinking of just selling the bike back for what I paid. (400$) never again buying from craigslist...so many shady/dishonest people. "like new" my ass. More like "Like new but needs new components".

  11. #11
    CT3
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    400 for a used bike with alivio components already sounds shady, new bikes cost that much with alivio

  12. #12
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    Andrew - 2010 GT avalanche 3.0 disc. I didnt quite understand that last part...huh?


    CT3 - I know, I was an idiot and bought it because I thought it was a 'good deal'. I should have researched it first.




    I much rather buy something better than Alivio since i cant even service the damn cage. Whats something better but not breaking the bank?
    '98 GT Backwoods

  13. #13
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    Alivio builds seem to cost more than that lately. Which is lame. I want my currency to kick ass again!

    OP - what bike do you have, anyway? Thanks to the wonders of the internet, we all have the equivalent of a shop sponsorship, as long as it's something that can wait a couple of days.
    "Don't buy upgrades; ride up grades." -Eddy Merckx

  14. #14
    Yes, that's fonetic
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    How are you "100% sure" the hanger isn't bent? Do you own a derailleur alignment gauge?
    Slop in that area of the derailleur means it's probably shot, not surprising for an Alivio. $33 from Jenson, and yes, any derailleur regardless of price point has no adjustment when that pivot wears out. It's just that the more you pay the longer it'll last.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by whodaphuck View Post
    How are you "100% sure" the hanger isn't bent? Do you own a derailleur alignment gauge?
    Slop in that area of the derailleur means it's probably shot, not surprising for an Alivio. $33 from Jenson, and yes, any derailleur regardless of price point has no adjustment when that pivot wears out. It's just that the more you pay the longer it'll last.
    im sure because this bikes never been dropped, and I took out the hanger and its not twisted/bent/warped. Sits flat on a flat surface.
    '98 GT Backwoods

  16. #16
    Yes, that's fonetic
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    Quote Originally Posted by adrianm1188 View Post
    im sure because this bikes never been dropped, and I took out the hanger and its not twisted/bent/warped. Sits flat on a flat surface.
    You know the entire history of the bike and that the previous owner never dropped it??? Without one of these, you can't be sure that it's on a parallel plane to your rear wheel which is how it needs to be aligned.
    Attached Images Attached Images  

  17. #17
    CT3
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    Quote Originally Posted by adrianm1188 View Post
    Andrew - 2010 GT avalanche 3.0 disc. I didnt quite understand that last part...huh?


    CT3 - I know, I was an idiot and bought it because I thought it was a 'good deal'. I should have researched it first.




    I much rather buy something better than Alivio since i cant even service the damn cage. Whats something better but not breaking the bank?
    Sounds like a you didn't any research. I got mine for 350 brand new in box from
    Performance last may on sale but its still a 500 bike
    Last edited by CT3; 07-31-2011 at 09:34 PM.

  18. #18
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    Does it shift OK? If so, ride it until it doesn't.

    If it doesn't, get one of these:

    http://cgi.ebay.com/SHIMANO-DEORE-RD...item588f217cd4

    Do this:

    Rear Derailleur Adjustment:

    1) Shift the bike to the smallest cog (9th gear if it's a nine speed setup). Turn the cable adjuster on the shifter for the rear derailleur (right end of the handlebar) all the way in and then back it all one full turn. If you're using a Shimano derailleur with a cable adjuster where the cable enters the rear derailleur, do the same thing with that adjuster that you did with the one on the shifter.

    2) Loosen the cable nut on the rear derailleur and gently use a pair of pliers to pull the cable fairly snug (but no need to pull it super tight), and tighten the nut a little over half way tight (tight enough that it won't move when you shift while adjusting, but no so tight it will disfigure the cable in case you have to make an adjustment before you're finished).

    3) Shift the bike to 2nd gear and look at it from the rear of the bike. Use the cable adjuster (on the rear of the derailleur if it's a Shimano or at the shifter if using SRAM) to adjust the top pulley on the derailleur so it is lined up exactly with the 2nd to largest cog on the cassette. You use the adjuster on the rear derailleur for this step if using Shimano so that you save as much room at the shifter as possible for subsequent on-the-fly adjustments.

    4) On the rear derailleur, shift to the largest cog and look at the derailleur from behind. Use the limit screw on the side of the derailleur to adjust the derailleur so the top pulley wheel lines up exactly with the large cog when looking at it from behind. Shift down to the smallest cog and do the same using the other adjustment screw on the back of the derailleur.

    5) Again shift to 2nd gear and check the pulley alignment and then shift to the 8th cog and make sure it lines up well there too. Make any fine adjustments you can see are necessary.

    6) You are ready to test ride the bike. If it is not shifting smoothly, shift it to 2nd gear and look at it from behind. Hold up the rear of the bike and turn the pedal (it's easier if you have help doing this). You can also turn the bike upside down, but shift it first to 2nd gear so you don't have to do this with the handlebars on the ground. Watch the way the chain acts as you turn the pedals. If it jumps up toward the largest cog, turn the adjuster inward (tighten) one 'click' at a time until it stops jumping. If it is looking like it is trying to shift to a smaller cog, turn the adjuster as though to loosen it (this will in effect increase the cable length) until it stops trying to shift downward. Retest the bike by riding it. Repeat this step until it shifts perfectly.

    Move on. Be happy you are out riding your bike and stop beating yourself up over something that is really quite minor in the grand scheme. Bikes are supposed to relieve stress, not create it.

  19. #19
    CT3
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    buy one of these too
    http://www.amazon.com/Wheels-Manufac...2173035&sr=8-1

    ive bought 3 already in a year,

    its life live it and get dirty

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by CT3 View Post
    buy one of these too
    http://www.amazon.com/Wheels-Manufac...2173035&sr=8-1

    ive bought 3 already in a year,

    its life live it and get dirty
    Great idea to have a spare. I keep one in my Camelbak on longer rides along with a fastener.

    If you're breaking that many hangers, it's possible you're unlucky enough to have had three sticks get caught or crashed in ways that take out the hanger, BUT, if it seems that the hangers are breaking at more random times, it could be that your skewer isn't tight enough to 'sister' the hanger to the dropout so they each give each other strength rather than the hanger only relying on it's own strength to support the derailleur.

    My son broke off several hangers before we figured this out for him and I have seen it happen with others too.

  21. #21
    CT3
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    Quote Originally Posted by jeffj View Post
    Great idea to have a spare. I keep one in my Camelbak on longer rides along with a fastener.

    If you're breaking that many hangers, it's possible you're unlucky enough to have had three sticks get caught or crashed in ways that take out the hanger, BUT, if it seems that the hangers are breaking at more random times, it could be that your skewer isn't tight enough to 'sister' the hanger to the dropout so they each give each other strength rather than the hanger only relying on it's own strength to support the derailleur.

    My son broke off several hangers before we figured this out for him and I have seen it happen with others too.
    yeah makes sense, but i forgot to mention they were on 3 different bikes all the same hanger. one bc i think my derailer or shifter froze, another being that the der b screw doesnt sit in a the hanger in the most optimal position (kind of functional still). the other i dont know it was my bike but i wasnt riding it. 2 gt sensors and a avalanche

  22. #22
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    Im just having regret because this bike is so damn heavy. I got a XXL because i thought i needed it, being 6'4"...but i think XL would have been better. And lighter too.I can barely get both wheels 3 inches off the ground. With my uncles avalanche LE, i can jump about 6" high.


    CT3, i know its not bent because when I alight the cage how its supposed to be, its verticle to the cogs...if i let go of it, it falls to the inside. it just has too much wiggle play.

    That deore 9 speed require new cassettes? mine is 8 speed.
    '98 GT Backwoods

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by jeffj View Post
    Does it shift OK? If so, ride it until it doesn't.

    If it doesn't, get one of these:

    http://cgi.ebay.com/SHIMANO-DEORE-RD...item588f217cd4

    Do this:

    Rear Derailleur Adjustment:

    1) Shift the bike to the smallest cog (9th gear if it's a nine speed setup). Turn the cable adjuster on the shifter for the rear derailleur (right end of the handlebar) all the way in and then back it all one full turn. If you're using a Shimano derailleur with a cable adjuster where the cable enters the rear derailleur, do the same thing with that adjuster that you did with the one on the shifter.

    2) Loosen the cable nut on the rear derailleur and gently use a pair of pliers to pull the cable fairly snug (but no need to pull it super tight), and tighten the nut a little over half way tight (tight enough that it won't move when you shift while adjusting, but no so tight it will disfigure the cable in case you have to make an adjustment before you're finished).

    3) Shift the bike to 2nd gear and look at it from the rear of the bike. Use the cable adjuster (on the rear of the derailleur if it's a Shimano or at the shifter if using SRAM) to adjust the top pulley on the derailleur so it is lined up exactly with the 2nd to largest cog on the cassette. You use the adjuster on the rear derailleur for this step if using Shimano so that you save as much room at the shifter as possible for subsequent on-the-fly adjustments.

    4) On the rear derailleur, shift to the largest cog and look at the derailleur from behind. Use the limit screw on the side of the derailleur to adjust the derailleur so the top pulley wheel lines up exactly with the large cog when looking at it from behind. Shift down to the smallest cog and do the same using the other adjustment screw on the back of the derailleur.

    5) Again shift to 2nd gear and check the pulley alignment and then shift to the 8th cog and make sure it lines up well there too. Make any fine adjustments you can see are necessary.

    6) You are ready to test ride the bike. If it is not shifting smoothly, shift it to 2nd gear and look at it from behind. Hold up the rear of the bike and turn the pedal (it's easier if you have help doing this). You can also turn the bike upside down, but shift it first to 2nd gear so you don't have to do this with the handlebars on the ground. Watch the way the chain acts as you turn the pedals. If it jumps up toward the largest cog, turn the adjuster inward (tighten) one 'click' at a time until it stops jumping. If it is looking like it is trying to shift to a smaller cog, turn the adjuster as though to loosen it (this will in effect increase the cable length) until it stops trying to shift downward. Retest the bike by riding it. Repeat this step until it shifts perfectly.

    Move on. Be happy you are out riding your bike and stop beating yourself up over something that is really quite minor in the grand scheme. Bikes are supposed to relieve stress, not create it.
    Why does this method differ from the ParkTool method? See this is what confused me, my manual, and these websites all have different derailleur adjusting methods.
    '98 GT Backwoods

  24. #24
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    stop working on your derailluer if you dont know what your doing get it to a trained tech

    not trying to be a dick sorry if that sounds rude

  25. #25
    CT3
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    Quote Originally Posted by adrianm1188 View Post
    Im just having regret because this bike is so damn heavy. I got a XXL because i thought i needed it, being 6'4"...but i think XL would have been better. And lighter too.I can barely get both wheels 3 inches off the ground. With my uncles avalanche LE, i can jump about 6" high.


    CT3, i know its not bent because when I alight the cage how its supposed to be, its verticle to the cogs...if i let go of it, it falls to the inside. it just has too much wiggle play.

    That deore 9 speed require new cassettes? mine is 8 speed.
    it will work with a 8spd cassette and shifter. the shifter tells it what to do.

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