1. The most important thing about buying a new bike is to make sure it fits. The only way you'll know if the bike is right for you is to size up the bike and make sure that the bike's geometry matches your body's geometry. Ask questions and do some research.
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2. If possible, try to find a shop that will let you demo the bike on real dirt. Five minutes in a parking lot won't cut it. You wouldn't buy a car without a real world test drive, and a bike should be no different.
3. Don't belive the hype. Just because your favorite rider or best friend rides a certain bike, that doesn't mean that's the best one for you. Have an open mind and be realistic about your needs and ability.
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  1. #1
    mtbr member
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    problem with brakes

    I have '05 HAyes HMX-2 Mechanical Disc Brakes, and they have been fine up until now. The front brake caliper (I think thats what the thing that clamps onto the disc is called) is not clamping on to the disc well at all. I've had this bike for only 3 weeks and only gone on the trails once so far due to the weather. Anyone know how to adjust or fix this?

    Thanks

  2. #2
    mtbr member
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    I'm no expert but I played around with my shimmano mechanical discs and there is an adjustment on each side that moves the pads closer to the disc.

    This fixed my problem for a bit but now I have it sitting in the shed until I get to my LBS to replace the worn out pads.

  3. #3
    Double-metric mtb man
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    Hey Alex,

    I had the same brakes on my last bike. They need adjustment on a regular basis as the pads wear, but I found them to be a good, reliable brake.

    To adjust the brakes, you'll need to loosen off the little retaining screw with an allen key (it'll be on the bottom, front or back of the inside (side towards your wheel) of the caliper and takes a small hex key).

    Next, adjust the stationary brake pad (you adjust it using the large hex screw on the inside part of the caliper...if you look through the wheel at the caliper, it'll be staring right at you)...you want to be able to see daylight between the rotor and pad when looking through the brake on edge. When you think you have it, give the tire a spin and listen for the pad rubbing...if it is back off the pad a bit (assuming that it is the pad rubbing). Tighten up the set screw a little to make sure the stationary pad doesn't move while you set up the other pad.

    Once you've got the stationary pad done, you can use the barrel adjuster at the brake lever to adjust the moving brake pad the same way....close but not touching/rubbing on the rotor.

    Once you've got the feel at the lever you want, no rubbing brake pads and good activation, tighten up the little set screw a little more so things are all set and ready to go. You don't need to torque the poor little thing to death, but do make sure it won't take off on you.

    A good guide I've found for the gap between rotor and pads is the thickness of a business card. The brakes contact quickly (not a lot of lever pull needed) but they also don't drag and steal you energy while riding.

    Hope it helps.
    As if four times wasn't enough-> Psycho Mike's 2013 Ride to Conquer Cancer Page

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  4. #4
    local trails rider
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    I do not understand the question "not clamping on to the disc well at all". Do you mean that your brakes are weak, no stopping power, or that something is out of alignment?

    If you lack braking power, it could be that you have not done a "breaking in": several stops from some speed, in clean conditions and with time for the brakes to cool down in between.

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