1. The most important thing about buying a new bike is to make sure it fits. The only way you'll know if the bike is right for you is to size up the bike and make sure that the bike's geometry matches your body's geometry. Ask questions and do some research.
mtn. biking 101
2. If possible, try to find a shop that will let you demo the bike on real dirt. Five minutes in a parking lot won't cut it. You wouldn't buy a car without a real world test drive, and a bike should be no different.
3. Don't belive the hype. Just because your favorite rider or best friend rides a certain bike, that doesn't mean that's the best one for you. Have an open mind and be realistic about your needs and ability.
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  1. #1
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    Planning stages of 1x9 conversion help

    Still a noob a few months on the mtb. I am currently in the planning process of converting my 3x7 drive train to a1x9 mostly for simplicity reasons but also for a little weight savings. My first problem I'm running into is that my current hub is a 7speed cassette hub. If I want to change it to a 9speed will I have to purchase a whole wheel with free hub or can I just purchase a free hub and use it to replace my current cassette hub till I have the funds to get a better wheelset?

  2. #2
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  3. #3
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    Depends on if you have a freehub or a freewheel.. Take a look at it and go from there.

    Sent from my 831C using Tapatalk

  4. #4
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    How do I tell if it is free hub or freewheel? It is a 2014 specialized hardrock

  5. #5
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    Google freehub vs freewheel and look at the pics

    Sent from my 831C using Tapatalk

  6. #6
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    There is info about that on the link I provided at the top of the page.
    I am pretty sure it is a freehub if it is a 2014. I would also say your freehub will likely accept a 8/9/10 speed cassette as well since it's that new. There is probably a spacer behind the cassette.

  7. #7
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    http://m.specialized.com/us/en/bikes...ck/hardrock-26

    Says freewheel on the description. It's a pretty low end bike they cut every corner these days. 10 years ago the hardrock was pretty decent for the money I had an 06 and it was a great deal. I wouldn't be surprised if it's a freewheel at all.

    Sent from my 831C using Tapatalk

  8. #8
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    I would ditch the fork and go with a suntour raidon or epicon instead of dumping money into the drivetrain. You will lose more weight where it matters, it will ride a million times better, and then later down the road you can do a 1x10 setup and do it right.

    Sent from my 831C using Tapatalk

  9. #9
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    I'm not home right now so I can check for sure later but this is the link to the model I have. Specialized Bicycle Components

  10. #10
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    Not worth it.

    Why not just do 1x7?

    I had thought that the Big S decided to stop doing freewheels entirely. However, a 7-speed cassette is narrower than an 8-10-speed cassette, so you still may not have compatibility.

    Pull off your rear wheel and take a picture from the cassette side, so we can see the lock ring clearly.
    "Don't buy upgrades; ride up grades." -Eddy Merckx

  11. #11
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    Well I didnt think I could use parts like x9 with a 7 speed? And also I wouldn't get quite the range as a 1x9

  12. #12
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    The range you need depends on where you ride it. If you do a lot of technical climbing you might miss your small ring up front. Like I said though, I'd invest money in a fork if you want to lose weight and gain performance. I mean, you're losing gear range and spending money to lose weight. A new fork would probably benefit you a lot more than your current plans.

    Sent from my 831C using Tapatalk

  13. #13
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    I agree a fork would help more but I do have a good friend that is upgrading forks soon and said he would sell me his rockshox tora solo air for cheap so I have that covered very soon.

  14. #14
    Fat-tired Roadie
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    Drivetrain "upgrades" are about the worst value going, IME. Particularly the high-dollar stuff. I don't know SRAM well, but I think Shimano's value peaks around Deore.

    What's your end goal here? How long have you had this bike? How many parts have you thrown at it so far?
    "Don't buy upgrades; ride up grades." -Eddy Merckx

  15. #15
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    I've had it about 3 months. So far the only money I have put in to is replacing a cassette I broke and some captain control tires. I really want a 1x9 or 1x10 setup and replace the crappy components this bike came with.

  16. #16
    Fat-tired Roadie
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    Can you give it back?

    The way you're headed, you're going to pay for a Stumpjumper HT Evo about twice, but have a frankenhardrock.

    Never been there myself, of course. :-p
    "Don't buy upgrades; ride up grades." -Eddy Merckx

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Slash5 View Post
    +1 on this.

  18. #18
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    No I can't return it now. Would I be better just going 1x7? Also if I do go 1x7 what kind of rear derailleur can I use? Most of them I see are at least 9 speed

  19. #19
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    check if bottom bracket and rear hub is compatible, but seems kinda expensive for performance value...

    Full Warranty Complete RaceFace Ride SRAM x9 Type 2 1x10 Conversion Kit MTB | eBay

  20. #20
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    Derailleurs are 7 8 or 9 speed, so either one advertised should be good. At least shimano. I don't know about sram. But why do you need 14 less gears?

    Sent from my 831C using Tapatalk

  21. #21
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    Well I don't NEED it but I guess I just have upgradeitis. I just want it to have better components and I never use the outermost or inner chain ring so makes since to get rid of them and shave a little weight off at the same time.

  22. #22
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    Re: Planning stages of 1x9 conversion help

    It's July. If you're losing any riding time to screwing around with your bike, IMHO you're doing it wrong. I'm swearing I won't even change my handle bar until after my last race, probably about six weeks from now.

    If you're going to do upgradeitis, do it well. Ask yourself if the Hardrock frame is what you want, long-term. I still have mine - it's proven durable and didn't fight me as my riding position got a little longer and lower. Now it's next to my desk at work, waiting for my next lunch ride. But if you really want something else, start with the frame.

    Can you post a pic of your crank? It may not be possible to remove chain rings without damaging it.

    Winter is a good time for these projects. Stuff's on sale, shop staff aren't busy, and the weather sucks. A lot of things you try to do to this bike are going to snowball, so not risking riding days is better.
    "Don't buy upgrades; ride up grades." -Eddy Merckx

  23. #23
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    I switched my big ring for a bash guard because my fs bike was hitting logs with the big ring so it made sense to take it off since it was trashed anyways. But saving like a pound isn't really worth it to me to lose my small ring too. Mainly because I use it though. I was looking at going with a 36t rear cassette on a 10 speed setup and then maybe a 30 or 28 up front so that I keep most of the gears I use, but it didn't seem like it was worth the money so instead I'm cutting apart a 9 speed cassette for the 34t 1st gear and am just gonna make my own cassette with the gears I want. If I were you I'd start pricing out 9 speed single shifters, rear wheels, cassettes and chains, along with a chain guide or a clutched derailleur, and see if it's worth all the money. Spending 300 bucks or so to drop some gears isn't worth it to me. People who do that already have the rest of the setup, so it'd cost beneficial to remove parts without replacing them with other parts. You have to first build your bike up to a setup that you can remove stuff from and that's really the problem.

    And another thing, add a chainring to your shopping cart and you're replacing everything required to do a 1x10 setup. And that's the route you should be going in my eyes.

    Sent from my 831C using Tapatalk

  24. #24
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    No I'm not losing any riding time. I really like the hardrock and I think I will stick with it. I enjoy riding but between archery shoots and kayaking I only ride about once a week so for now I see no point in getting another bike when I can just get the one I have to a lot better components and just keep on riding.

  25. #25
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    I just did all this to my hardrock. If you have a 7 speed you probably have to change the rear hub because it will not take a 8,9 or 10. I got lucky because my rear wheel was replaced under warrenty with a wheel that would work with a 10 speed cassette. I went 1x10 with a raceface ride crankset and a narrow wide 32 tooth ring in the front and a slx der and cassette and deore shifter. Dont forget you have to replace your brake levers when you do this. All of that was 205. I had already used the suntour fork upgrade and got the raidon shock for around 200 with shipping. I have about 900 in it right now and will probably have 1100 in it when I finish it(brakes bars and seat). Base model stumpjumper is 2000 so I don't see the problem with upgrading within reason.

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