1. The most important thing about buying a new bike is to make sure it fits. The only way you'll know if the bike is right for you is to size up the bike and make sure that the bike's geometry matches your body's geometry. Ask questions and do some research.
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2. If possible, try to find a shop that will let you demo the bike on real dirt. Five minutes in a parking lot won't cut it. You wouldn't buy a car without a real world test drive, and a bike should be no different.
3. Don't belive the hype. Just because your favorite rider or best friend rides a certain bike, that doesn't mean that's the best one for you. Have an open mind and be realistic about your needs and ability.
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Thread: Pedal Removal

  1. #1
    Rockflopper
    Reputation: Rick Moranis's Avatar
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    Pedal Removal

    I am trying to swap out my pedals but its proving to be very difficult. I bought 15mm pedal wrench from the shop and was able to take the drive side pedal off without any problems but the left side is not budging. I am COMPLETELY aware that the thread is reversed on the left side and I am turning it clockwise but the damn thing wont move. I have tried spraying it down with WD40 but that has done nothing. Whats my next course of action?

    I don't want to bring it to the shop because I know they will charge me 20 bucks for it, and they do TERRIBLE work. They are the ones that put the pedal on initially and I know they probably didn't grease it and they probably crossed the threads up.

  2. #2
    crap magnet
    Reputation: cdaddy's Avatar
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    Any shop worth their salt won't charge you for pedal removal. Especially if they're the ones who over-tightened it.
    When you find yourself on the side of the majority it's time to pause and reflect.
    -Mark Twain

  3. #3
    mtbr member
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    time for the good ol cheater bar aka a piece of pipe. you can also try tapping the end of the wrench lightly to get it moving. also try lining up the pedal wrench and crank so you can grip/squeeze the arm and wrench at the same time. use anti seize when you reinstall. the next removal will be a breeze

  4. #4
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    stop by an auto supply shop and get a can of penetrating lubricant. lay the bike on its side so the lubricant can work its way into the threads. it will work better than wd40 for things that are stuck like that. it will take a minute or so for it to seep in, but it should grease up the threads in there enough for you to get them out. i had a similar problem with some screws on the brakes on my car. the screws were in there so tight i actually bent the tip of a craftsman screwdriver. a little penetrating oil, and it came right out.

  5. #5
    Fat boy Mod Moderator
    Reputation: donalson's Avatar
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    PB blaster is my fav penetrating lube... it's like wd40 on crack... put a bit in the bottom of a foam cup and it'll eat the foam... you can hear it eating rust also (it's invaluable when working on a car)...

    that being said... cheater bar (for more tourqe) like mentioned above is exactly the way to go... outside of the obvious letting the LBS take care of it this time around...
    - Surly Disc trucker
    - '82 trek 560 roadie

  6. #6
    mtbr member
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    An box end wrench will also work in place of a cheater bar in a pinch.

  7. #7
    ride like you stole it
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    Be careful if your gonna just try to bust the pedal off with out penetrating lube because your pedal threads are most likely steel and the cranks are aluminum so you might strip the threads.
    I lubed my disc brakes because they squeaked.
    Man was that fun to work out

  8. #8
    Rockflopper
    Reputation: Rick Moranis's Avatar
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    This is driving me insane! I love how a 5 minute project turns into a whole day ordeal.

    I bought some liquid wrench penetrating oil and let it soak for 10 minutes and it still wont budge. Even worse the Park Tool pedal wrench I bought is now completely warped and pretty unusable, and the pedal (shimano m540) is taking a beating.

    Im giving up and bringing it back to the shop and let them deal with it, even though every time I bring my bike back from there, there are more problems with it than before I went in.

    I'm trying to take the initiative and start doing my own work on the bike but **** if its going to cause this much frustration I will gladly pay a shop that knows what they're doing.

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