1. The most important thing about buying a new bike is to make sure it fits. The only way you'll know if the bike is right for you is to size up the bike and make sure that the bike's geometry matches your body's geometry. Ask questions and do some research.
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  1. #1
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    Noob to wheel and hub maint.

    Been having my rear wheel rub on the non drive side (left) lately. Had the wheel tried at my lbs. put the wheel back on and it still rubs. Took apart the hub to see what's up and saw this tonight Noob to wheel and hub maint.-imageuploadedbytapatalk1412620596.789630.jpg

    On the driver side of the axle the threads are stripped after the retaining nuts. Is that supposed to be like this? It's a 9mm qr on my 2014 Scott scale 970. I figured that something was loose in the hub as to why the tire keeps rubbing on the left side. Any help or tips please!

  2. #2
    Fat-tired Roadie
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    A lot of axles have some variation in threading along their length. Are the threads stripped right next to where the cone threads on, or a little further away?

    When the whole thing is assembled, can you tune the preload correctly? Is the freehub behaving?
    "Don't buy upgrades; ride up grades." -Eddy Merckx

  3. #3
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    Noob to wheel and hub maint.

    It all threads on just like it should. I'm thinking that the cone+spacer+nut were not torqued correctly since when I first pulled them apart I was able to undo them by hand.

  4. #4
    Fat-tired Roadie
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    Re: Noob to wheel and hub maint.

    It's not really a torque thing. In this style of hub, the cone/axle interface is about positioning the cones relative to the races in the hub shell. Basically, you want them positioned so that when the quick release is tightened, there's no play in the hub. Some play with the QR loose is desirable, although it's a pretty touchy adjustment.

    The jam nuts are there so the cones don't spin on the axles.

    IME, as these things wear out, I start going straight from loose to grinding, no stop at smooth along the way.

    What do the bearing races look like?

    Seems like if those are okay, you should be able to repack and reassemble this hub, and go ride. Just make sure to torque down those jam nuts. Sounds like maybe that wasn't done before, or they loosened up on their own.
    "Don't buy upgrades; ride up grades." -Eddy Merckx

  5. #5
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    There is no way you can loosen a jam nut by hand. Not sure if your lbs repacked the bearings and adjusted the cones when they trued the wheel. If they did and the jam nut came loose, then I'd replace the axle. They are cheap if you are using any of that section of threads it will always be a problem.

    John
    1995 Trek 970 - 80mm Atom Race
    1992 Serotta T-Max - 70mm Z3 Light
    1993 GT All Terra - 46mm Mag 21

  6. #6
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    Noob to wheel and hub maint.

    Idk checked it all and put it back to ether to be the same as before. Idk I'll take it to the lbs and see what's up. Thanks for trouble shooting with me! I'll update after lbs.

  7. #7
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    Noob to wheel and hub maint.

    Dropped the bike off at the lbs the other day. Waiting to pick it up and find out what was wrong. But when I dropped it off I spoke to the owner of the shop and he said that he's see this a lot with Scott bikes. So I went home and did some googling. Turns out a lot if people that have Scott bikes have had this issue with the rear dropout alignment being off. So he's sent me a MSG saying it's ready but said he would tell me what happened when I get there. He's Italian so I'm sure it's too hard to discuss over the phone or txt for him. But I'll have to update when I get it back and find out the results.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by derekgould View Post
    It all threads on just like it should. I'm thinking that the cone+spacer+nut were not torqued correctly since when I first pulled them apart I was able to undo them by hand.

    I would guess this ^ is the reason your hub came out of adjustment. If the locknut isn't tight against the cone a proper adjustment is not possible, and you can't do it without loosening or removing the non-drive side locknut & cone to access the drive side one.

    This gets missed all the time, I actually saw a mechanic at a shop a few weeks ago working on that type of hub and he was baffled about how to get at the drive side cone for adjustment. I wanted to tell him but felt it wasn't my place to do so.

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