1. The most important thing about buying a new bike is to make sure it fits. The only way you'll know if the bike is right for you is to size up the bike and make sure that the bike's geometry matches your body's geometry. Ask questions and do some research.
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2. If possible, try to find a shop that will let you demo the bike on real dirt. Five minutes in a parking lot won't cut it. You wouldn't buy a car without a real world test drive, and a bike should be no different.
3. Don't belive the hype. Just because your favorite rider or best friend rides a certain bike, that doesn't mean that's the best one for you. Have an open mind and be realistic about your needs and ability.
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  1. #1
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    Newbie question on full suspension and brake lines

    Hi, I have an older Specialized full suspension bike with disc brakes. The issue I have with this is that when I sit on the bike the brake line bends outwards and I hit it with my foot on every revolution. I tried to use a plastic wire tie but did not want to make it snug, but it still hits my foot. Will this happen on all full suspension bikes? TIA

  2. #2
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    Most of the time, NO. The brake housing is supposed to move a little near the seatpost because it's usually floating from the front triangle of the bike to the rear and it has to account for the suspension fully contracting and extending. But normally the housing is zip-tied off to the seat stays to keep it from hitting your leg or going into the spokes. Usually the movement is more of the up and down type rather than in and out. Normally one zip-tie at the top/front of the seat stay and one closer to the rear/bottom is enough to keep it from moving too much. Make them snug enough so the housing can't move but not so snug that it crushes or crimps the housing.

  3. #3
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    I understand that the distance the brake line has to travel shortens when I get on the bike, but if I keep it from flexing out won't it put more pressure on the fittings and cause it to leak? I have hydraulic brakes.

  4. #4
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    Can you post a photo of the line? Maybe show the position without weight, and then another photo showing it with the suspension partially compressed? My gut feeling is that whoever built the bike (or put the brakes on) left the hose too long...

    If the suspension moves such that the distance gets closer together, then the line needs very little (or possibly no) slack when the suspension is fully extended.

    Does that help any? Remember, a picture is worth 1000 words (especially when trying to diagnose problems)

  5. #5
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    I can get the pics when I get home, but specialized or really performance bike put the bike together. Until then though, there is no slack when the suspension is not compressed. The line is up against the bike. That is why I hesitate tightening the line so it cannot flex. But don't most bike's do that? If the suspension pivots at the crankcase [or some point close to it] then when the bike flexes the distance from the handlebars to the rear hub decreases. Since the brake lines are routed along the top tube then down the seat stays/rear triangle that distance shortens. or at least I think it would. If the lines were routed by the rear suspension pivot I would think the distance would stay close to the same. But I am neither an engineer or a mechanic, I just pretend.

  6. #6
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    here is the rear triangle uncompressed. I added the 2 zip ties and have figured out how to not have it hit my foot.


  7. #7
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    ok I can't post the pics. can someone give me instructions on how to?

  8. #8
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    nevermind folks. The runners on the cables were old and loose. I tightened and lubricated them. I did have to zip tie the line by the rear brake but now when the bike flexs the line flexes under the top tube.

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