1. The most important thing about buying a new bike is to make sure it fits. The only way you'll know if the bike is right for you is to size up the bike and make sure that the bike's geometry matches your body's geometry. Ask questions and do some research.
mtn. biking 101
2. If possible, try to find a shop that will let you demo the bike on real dirt. Five minutes in a parking lot won't cut it. You wouldn't buy a car without a real world test drive, and a bike should be no different.
3. Don't belive the hype. Just because your favorite rider or best friend rides a certain bike, that doesn't mean that's the best one for you. Have an open mind and be realistic about your needs and ability.
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  1. #1
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    New set of wheels??

    Im looking forward to upgrading my existing wheels. The best candidate based on price, and reviews out there are the Easton ea90 xc 29". The thing is I've seen and heard very loud mechanisms on other rider's bikes. I think this sound comes from the cassette or the bearing somewhere on the rear wheel. Does this loud sound mean better quality in components in any way? Also, does it have anything to do with the wheels?

  2. #2
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    The noise comes from the hub coasting; specifically it is the pawls (spring loaded teeth) coasting over the groves in the hub that catch the teeth when you start to pedal, allowing you to move forward.

    Generally the higher frequency of the sounds, the higher quality the hub because of faster engagement. The hub is a part of the wheel as a whole (which includes tire, tube, rim, spokes, nipples, and hub).

    Arts has a deal right now if you buy mountain bike wheels you get free tires and tubes with your purchase.

  3. #3
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    Thats does seem like a good deal. Unfortunately somewhy they only sale the front wheel for the set I want. :s . Is it true carbon rims tend to be fragile? How can I know the how good the hubs are before my purchase?




    Quote Originally Posted by Ride-Aid View Post
    The noise comes from the hub coasting; specifically it is the pawls (spring loaded teeth) coasting over the groves in the hub that catch the teeth when you start to pedal, allowing you to move forward.

    Generally the higher frequency of the sounds, the higher quality the hub because of faster engagement. The hub is a part of the wheel as a whole (which includes tire, tube, rim, spokes, nipples, and hub).

    Arts has a deal right now if you buy mountain bike wheels you get free tires and tubes with your purchase.

  4. #4
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    The new carbon roval wheels are awesome deal if you want carbon otherwise I've had good luck with the non carbon rovals as well as American Classic wheelsets.

  5. #5
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    Look at Stan's wheelsets (29-inch Mountain Wheels) too. They're reasonablly priced, well built, and the oem hubs are good quality for the money. I think they even come pre-taped so they're tubeless-ready out of the box.
    Please donate to IMBA or your local chapter. It's trail karma.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by MTBeing View Post
    Look at Stan's wheelsets (29-inch Mountain Wheels) too. They're reasonablly priced, well built, and the oem hubs are good quality for the money. I think they even come pre-taped so they're tubeless-ready out of the box.

    Thanks for the suggestions. I'll make sure I check these out before my decision. But my concern is my initial question of carbon rims tending to be fragile? Like as in the bend easier, break or loose roundness way easier than aluminum?

  7. #7
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    you can get black flag experts for $185 shipped one ebay. This the KING deal right currently imo.

    black flag expert 29" | eBay

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gooordo View Post
    Thanks for the suggestions. I'll make sure I check these out before my decision. But my concern is my initial question of carbon rims tending to be fragile? Like as in the bend easier, break or loose roundness way easier than aluminum?
    Carbon rims are extremely stiff. They won't bend or loose roundness, and they stay true so long as the spokes are properly tensioned. When carbon fails, it's usually in the form of a crack. You can probably expect a carbon rim to be straight and true until it completely fails, if it does.

    As for whether they're fragile, as with anything else it depends on the intended use. If you find some super light XC race-day wheels, I'd expect them to be fragile. If they're advertised as trail, all-mountain, or enduro wheels, you can expect them to be close to bulletproof. If there's a specified rider weight limit, be careful if it's anywhere close to your weight fully geared.

  9. #9
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    Thank you Lazarus that's what I wanted to know. For a moment there a felt terrible about my writing.. Haha
    I will pay extra attention to the intended use of the product. It's also good to know that even the rider's weight becomes a factor towards choosing wheels. I do mostly xc and ocasional mountain. As much as a hardtail allows me to. I would try to stay on high quality aluminum unless I find a very good deal on carbon. As for the hubs I guess the only way on knowing how good they are is trying them???

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